[ankur_gupta10]

Originally Posted by amitk26

Your problem is not of clutch as RPM does not go beyond 3K in case of clutch slip RPM should increase but speed will not.

I think the problem as described is not of quick acceleration but not able to go beyond a peak.

I have no clue but peak performance is impacted so look at EGR + intercooler cleaning if oil has accumulated in last 6 years then IC cooling might have reduced

Amit - The problem is both peak speed in 3, 4 and 5th gears, and also acceleration overall. EGR valve was on my mind, but mechanic said, that needs cleaning when smoke is bad.

Intercooler cleaning might be needed, would talk with mechanic about it.

Originally Posted by tsk1979

Ankur, most proabably the rear wheel bearings are shot. Get them checked. the best way to do so is put car on ramp and spin rear wheels. If there is a lot of resistance it means they are kaput.

How old is your car. Have you ever change the rear bearings(hub bearings)?
Also when did you last get greasing done?

Rear bearings have never been changed or greased. It sounds like a good pointer. Will get it checked. My car is around 6.5 Yrs old with 85k done.

[ankur_gupta10]

The problem of acceleration was because of sensor near the air filter box being slightly loose. And now my Safari is running like the Beast. The mechanic was checking something and the accidentally just tightened it..

This is the second time for me. Last time I had the pickup problem was because of a wire cut from the same sensor. I dont know why this is not flagged as an error in the ECU. Ányways happy now, Can't bear tiny cars overtaking the beast like an old animal..

[amitk26]

Originally Posted by ankur_gupta10

The problem of acceleration was because of sensor near the air filter box being slightly loose. And now my Safari is running like the Beast. The mechanic was checking something and the accidentally just tightened it..

This is the second time for me. Last time I had the pickup problem was because of a wire cut from the same sensor. I dont know why this is not flagged as an error in the ECU. Ányways happy now, Can't bear tiny cars overtaking the beast like an old animal..

Is this MAF sensor ? Can you please post pic of said sensor

[ankur_gupta10]

Originally Posted by amitk26

Is this MAF sensor ? Can you please post pic of said sensor

Checkout the pic. But its not my engine.still, gives an idea.

[smsrini]

Can anyone point me to the location of the

Horns

Intercooler.

Had a minor fender bender. want to check if there is any damage behind the front bumper. Horns sound as if they have a sore throat.

[tsk1979]

Originally Posted by smsrini

Can anyone point me to the location of the

Horns

Intercooler.

Had a minor fender bender. want to check if there is any damage behind the front bumper. Horns sound as if they have a sore throat.

Get down under the vehicle. It sits low right behind the bumper
Protected by a small plate which is fixed
Or you can take a underbody pic from under the bumper and we can point it out to you

[amitk26]

Originally Posted by ankur_gupta10

Checkout the pic. But its not my engine.still, gives an idea.

Yes that is MAF sensor I think it is Siemens make.

Originally Posted by smsrini

Can anyone point me to the location of the

Horns

Intercooler.

Had a minor fender bender. want to check if there is any damage behind the front bumper. Horns sound as if they have a sore throat.

Intercooler is below , Under the bumper in front there is a steel cover plate
Intercooler is behind this.

Horns are little behind bumper, easiest way to reach horns in DIY faishon is to open front grill there is lots of space and hands can easily reach and work on horns and opening grill is very easy.

If you un-mount bumper then setting the edges properly before mounting is little tricky and may not be easy DIY job.

[trucksingh]

I have a 2010 2.2 Dicor LX. The beast is amazing and I absolutely love it but there is one problem that has cropped up. Yesterday I was just cleaning my car and I noticed a huge amount of rust build up right at the bottom of the back door (where the wheel is mounted, I suggest you guys check as well). It is rusting pretty bad there, may be because that is the area where all the water trickles down and it stays damp.

Safari's is a great vehicle but the steel quality used in the body sucks! There was this patch that had cropped in the bottom right hand corner of the rear side wind screen, had to spend 1200 to get it fixed! The vehicle gives me no issues mechanically but the body rust problem is really bothering me.

What do you guys suggest? Take it to 3M car care in Bangalore? Can they do some treatment that will prevent further rusting? I already have an underbody anti-rust applied.. so that area is protected... might need some patch work though as it has been close to 4 yrs.

Thanks

[amitk26]

Originally Posted by trucksingh

What do you guys suggest? Take it to 3M car care in Bangalore? Can they do some treatment that will prevent further rusting? I already have an underbody anti-rust applied.. so that area is protected... might need some patch work though as it has been close to 4 yrs.

Thanks

Take it to good painter / bodyshop I would suggest trend at hosur road or automach both are given in Tbhp directory.
They shoul remove cladding sand off the rust and then apply rust protection before painting
I dont think the problem is with steel but water being retained at bumper surface

[ankur_gupta10]

Originally Posted by trucksingh

I have a 2010 2.2 Dicor LX. The beast is amazing and I absolutely love it but there is one problem that has cropped up. Yesterday I was just cleaning my car and I noticed a huge amount of rust build up right at the bottom of the back door (where the wheel is mounted, I suggest you guys check as well). It is rusting pretty bad there, may be because that is the area where all the water trickles down and it stays damp.
Thanks

On a side note, if you use water pipe to clean the car, don't. Or make sure there is no water under any of the doors.

[mandyrana]

Originally Posted by trucksingh

I have a 2010 2.2 Dicor LX. The beast is amazing and I absolutely love it but there is one problem that has cropped up. Yesterday I was just cleaning my car and I noticed a huge amount of rust build up right at the bottom of the back door (where the wheel is mounted, I suggest you guys check as well). It is rusting pretty bad there, may be because that is the area where all the water trickles down and it stays damp.

Safari's is a great vehicle but the steel quality used in the body sucks! There was this patch that had cropped in the bottom right hand corner of the rear side wind screen, had to spend 1200 to get it fixed! The vehicle gives me no issues mechanically but the body rust problem is really bothering me.

What do you guys suggest? Take it to 3M car care in Bangalore? Can they do some treatment that will prevent further rusting? I already have an underbody anti-rust applied.. so that area is protected... might need some patch work though as it has been close to 4 yrs.

Thanks

I am facing same problem in my car. Looking to get it repainted

[amitk26]

Originally Posted by lodhra

For 4th year
.vacuum hoses replacements

Did anyone got the vacuum hoses replaced , I checked in booklet it says replace after 4 years but mine were not replaced.
How much does hose set cost ?

Originally Posted by amitk26

I got alignment / balancing /rotation done on my Safari and went to highway trip Bangalore - Rameshwaram and back. When I apply slight steering correction to right I hear a slight whining kind of noise from front wheel and also I feel very slight pulsation in my hand.

Is it due to some alignment issue or sign of play in bearing ? There is no sound when steering is straight ?

The vehicle is stopping in straight line on applying braks.

Forgot to update on this the problem was loose wheel nuts
Perhaps the wheel alignment shop had not tightened them enough.

I got following jobs done outside at Automech Koramangala ( Naveen)

1. Oil + Oil Filter change : Oil Shell Rimula R4 + OEM filter
2. Wheel Bearing greasing
3. Propeller Shaft greasing
4. Centre Pin and Idler Arm greasing and tightening.
5. There was a slight dent on fender got the dent removed and fender painted

The suspension feels really good and steering is precise after this greasing and tightening job.

#4 is supposed to be done at every service by T.A.S.S but I think they skip this because it never felt so crisp after service at T.A.S.S.

I purchased a set of TVS Girling front disk pads but they were found to be in order so not replaced. Current set of pads is now running for good 40K KM.


I will take it to T.A.S.S after couple of thousand KM for checkups , hose replacement etc.

[bj96]

Originally Posted by amitk26

Did anyone got the vacuum hoses replaced , I checked in booklet it says replace after 4 years but mine were not replaced...

At last service, ~3 months ago, had asked Concorde to replace on mine. They checked all rubber and pipes under the bonnet and declared all OK, no need to change. My truck is 5+ years, but, low runner (~30K kms).

-BJ

[indigo74]

I also found the left footrest of my Safari wasted by rust.I need to find a new footrest as soon as possible.

[souravdebiswas]

Recently, after a 6300 km drive, the steering in my Safari 2.2 started vibrating. The vibrations started while accelerating at speeds between 45 till 80. After that the vibrations stopped. No form of sound was coming from the suspension set up. My car has run 35000 kms and is 2.5 yrs old. I took it to the TASS Auto Vikas at Okhla Phase 1. They found a lot of play on the left front tyre. After looking at the issue, they gave me a long list of parts to be changed, and total cost of approx. Rs. 20000. Following were the parts:

1. Lower ball joint - Rs. 2100
2. Upper ball joint - Rs. 1900
3. Bush kit - Rs. 1250
4. Center pin link rod - Rs. 4300
5. Center pin bush - Rs. 1900
6. Jumping Rod bush - Rs. 300
7. Tie rod end (2) - Rs. 2200

Lathe job - Rs. 1200
Labour - Rs. 3320
Greasing - Rs. 622
Balancing - Rs. 500

Though I am still within the extended warranty period (4 months left), they said that these do not come under warranty. Only if the shockers are not good, they will include under warranty.

Their interpretation was that this was due to wear and tear. The car had run only 35000 kms till date. Strangely, 2 months back I had taken the car to them for a full checkup, and that time they inspected this portion and had said everything is fine.

So I left and took it to a mechanic near Bhikaji Cama Place as suggested by V&V (we met on Sunday morning at the bhp meet). The were closed because it was a Sunday, so I took it to a mechanic at GK2 M block. These guys deal with a lot of cars on a daily basis (imported and Indian), therefore I was comfortable in getting the work done from them.

After removing the tyres, they suggested the following. I am not an expert, but I guess these are the ones:

1. Center link rod - The bush at the left end was not working properly. They suggested that this be repaired at the lathe, but better to replace. So I purchased a center link rod (Rane brand) for Rs. 2600.



2. Tie rod replacement (comes in pair). Costed 980.



3. Lathe work on the center pin bush - I think this is connected with the tie rod. Not sure. Costed Rs. 1000.

Labour - Rs. 700

That's it. All this was on the left side suspension. The right side assembly was totally fine. He looked at everything else and said things were fine and nothing else needed to be done.

Thereafter I got the wheel alignment done. Now the car is running fine once again. No steering vibrations.

Wanted to ask one more thing on the forum. The front right tyres are wearing out from the inside and the outside edge. All other tyres are fine. This is something that has been happening since a long time, but I never bothered. What could have been the problem? The alignment was definitely out, since the wheel alignment guy got it fixed. Is there something else I need to look at?