re: Gurgaon - Sariska - Gurgaon - Phew...Finally sighted one of the Tiger Cubs of ST2 Hello All,
This post is not about "I spotted the Tiger" rather its about "how I spotted the tiger"
Mind you, I do not have any photographic proof of the incident, but I really do not care. The image of the collared tigress ST-2, staring in my eyes, from not more than 6 feet away will be etched in my mind for ever, and the thought of sighting a tiger for the first time ever in the wild will always give me goose bumps. Photographs will never replace that thrill!!
Here's how the incident happened.
My friend and I had plans to visit Sariska on 20/11/11. I asked Mr Gurudatt aka GD1418 if he was interested, but due to some prior engagements it was not possible for him.
So my friend and I reached Sariska at 1530 hrs where a gypsy was waiting for us. This was no oridanry Gypsy. My friend with his contacts had organised the chief warden's gypsy and it had a wireless set for communication. Also due to his "contacts" the safari timmings were relaxed for us.
I shall not write in detail what happened between 1530 hrs till 1745 hrs as nothing much happened. We were just chasing signals from one point of the forest to other without much luck.
At 1745 hrs the day light had almost finished. Due to the surrounding mountains and the tree cover day light ends much faster in the jungle. As time was passing I had boosted the ISO of my DSLR from 200 to 1600, still hoping to capture something.
We stood dejected at Kalighati. Those who have visted Sariska would know that Kalighati is the main check post on the main road between Sariska gate and the Pandupol Temple. All we could do was look at the pug marks they have preserved and put up at the check post for the visitors to see.
It was all very quiet. The regular visitors gypsies had left the park by now. Birds had finished chirping and retired to their nests. A few noises of monkey's jumping from one tree to another and subsequently twigs breaking could be heard in the distance. As we stared at the pugmarks dejectedly, suddenly we heared an unmistakable sound of a terrified spotted deer. This was an alarm call for sure. Every one looked at each other, and soon there was another alarm call. This was not very far, infact it was coming from within 100 mtrs from where we were. The guide in a hushed voice said that a predator is definitely there at the watering hole just behind Kalighati check post. It could be a leopard, could be a hyena or could be ST-2 the tigress.
We hurriedly reached our gypsie and proceeded to the watering hole. Suddenly things started to look bright but not the day. The day light had finished and darkness spread all around. Within 5 minutes we were at the watering hole. But the alarm calls had stopped by then. The guide and the driver deduced that most probably it was a hyena hence the alarm calls stopped. As unlike a hyena, that runs away very fast, a tiger or a leopard walk very slowly hence the alarm calls tend to go on for a while.
The ST-2 party (the gaurds that track ST-2) that was around Kalighati were summoned at the watering hole. Their reciever also did not hint at the presence of the tiger in the vicinity. It was dejection again. With gloomy faces we, along with the ST-2 party returned back to Kalighati. So much for technology!!!
No sooner did we reach Kalighati we heard another alarm call. This time it was a Sambhar Deer shouting for his dear life. The first alarm call was from the right side of the road, but this time it was from the left side and not very far away from us either. It was time to head off on the road going towards Pandupol. This time out guide took the tracking antenna himself. Luckily the alarm call continued this time but the antenna was still not picking up any signal. We stopped the gypsy, the guide said, its indeed a big cat, could be either a leopard or ST-2. But its most probably a leopard because the antenna has no signal.
Listening to continuous alarm calls we waited by the road side. It was totally dark by now so we had to really strain our eyes to see what we were hoping to see. The gypsies head light were helping but not much. The driver, the guide and my friend were looking in the front in the direction of the call, where as I had lost hope and was looking behind.
Suddenly at a distance of about 50 mtrs, in the direction where I was looking I saw a majestic silhouette of an animal coming out of the bushes. Was I dreaming, was this really it? In a confused state of mind I told my friend and the guide to look behind. The guide exclaimed " Durga Maa Hai" (Its Lordess Durga herself)
As soon as he said that all hell broke loose. The driver started to turn the gypsy around, the friend started "shouting" no noise no noise!! What the hell, the gypsy was making so much noise, who would be listening to us anyways!!!
Slowly we started to track the Tigress from behind. She increased her pace as was we inched towards her. I was spell bound watching her walk so gracefully, there were no thoughts going in my mind. I was just mesmarised seeing the elusive for the first time ever.
We were quiet, but the soft roar of the engine was definitely disturbing her. As we reached 10 feet from her she went in the bushes on the right.
We reached the spot where she went in the bushes and stopped the engine and the head lights went off. The eyes were straining to see something in the dark, it was all very quiet. Within minutes, just about 5-6 feet away from us in the bushes, the unmistakable silhouette of a tiger's head rose from the bushes.
She was beautifull, she had the aura in her and they way she looked at us gave us the jitters. I could not help but stare back at her. I was not supposed to but I was hypnotised. I just could not take my eyes away from her.
Even the auto focus on my camera had gone bonkers. ISO was at 3200 but well, the camera could not focus hence I could click nothing. In my state of mind, manual focussing didnt even cross my mind.
This was it, this was the moment I was waiting for, for so long. William blake's poem was so true TIGER, tiger, burning bright
In the forests of the night,
What immortal hand or eye
Could frame thy fearful symmetry?
By then She had silently disappeared in the night into the bushes. We could not hear a thing it was actually like "the ghost who walks"
It was almost 1830 hrs now. The guide said she would go to the watering hole we visited a little while earlier, but the driver said she would come back on the road and continue the path. The ST2 antenna in all this had started to pick up the signal, but it showed its movements towards the watering hole. So back we went there. At the watering hole we again heard alarm calls at the place we last saw ST-2, and that meant she was back around the place or walking on the road. It was time to hit the road again and go back to the place we left her.
We stopped the gypsy at the same spot again. Surely she came out of the bushes again, but this time she started to walk on the opposite direction. Time to take a U turn and follow her again.
Apparently ST2 is a very shy female. She runs away at the very sight of humans. So true to her nature she went in the bushes again. The tracker antenna was picking her signal very clear. The loud and continuous tick tick tick of the receiver meant she was within 10 meters of us.
We waited on the road, she was sure to come out again. The eerie silence of the night was suddenly broken by the unmistakable sound of death. She had killed a wild boar. Her deep growling and the groans of the dying animal were clearly audible to us. Not being able to see the action but to actually hear it was a quite an achievement for me.
But this also meant our chase was over. Now that she had made the kill, she would just lay still and enjoy her dinner.
We decided to return back. The guys spoke of their experiences of watching a big cat before. But I had nothing to add to their conversation as this was my first time. I just kept replaying the events of last 45 mnts in my mind and kept smiling!!
Wasnt I lucky today!!! |