We watched the four Neelgais frolicking in the water and waited. Hopeful that some more action might happen. Happen it did. The Cormorant, that I had seen earlier in the morning came flying from somewhere and perched on the same twig. Was it the same Cormorant? I dunno but am guessing it was the same. I surely need a bigger telephoto prime lens like a 400mm or the 600mm if I have to take birds seriously...
Cormorant - perfect landing
It was quarter past 3 in the noon and after sometime when nothing stirred, we decided to explore some other place. As we reached the man-made water-hole where I had seen the peacock dancing, saw the tracker jeep parked with one of the forest guard holding the antenna high. I raised an eyebrow and he responded that after I had mentioned about the pug-marks, they had gone there, saw the marks, circled them and followed. They had surmised that ST 4 had come towards this direction and were looking for signal. And they were not getting any signal. They were disappointed and frustrated as they had to report the position of the Big Cats every hour to the HQ, and for the last more than 48 hrs, ST 4 was untraceable.
Leaving them to their fate we came on the road and decided to go to Pandupol as in this heat every animal was resting in the shade. Peacocks & peahens sitting on their belly under the shade and not moving at all. Probably conserving energy. Similarly the Sambhars, Cheetals, Partridges, Langurs and birds too were resting in the shade. As the jeep lurched forward, we saw this Jackal sitting under the shade on the roadside. Normally a shy animal, this fellow did not make any attempt to scoot away when the jeep stopped so near him/her. Probably the heat was too much. I took a couple of pictures including some close-ups and moved. As soon as the jeep moved this fellow got up and came very near the rear of the Jeep, stood there staring at us. We moved on.
Jackal
The Pandupol area is a known Leopard area & habitat. With a hilly terrain, perennial water source and abundant prey base in the form of large number of primates quite a few Leopards reside there. As we neared the temple I heard a loud "khok". It was the Langur alarm call. On our right rose the hill that had crevices & caves. We stopped and looked for the Langur. There it was perched on the highest & thin branch of the Sal and intently looking at the hill. He called again and then another Langur that was not visible, called. Excitement running high we all were looking at the hill very intently. Nothing visible yet. The Langur called again and then fell silent. We watched him. He sat still and after some time climbed down. The danger had passed...!
The primates at the Pandupol temple complex never cease to amaze with their candidness. Here are some candid shots of the Rhesus Macaque.
Keeping the dignity of the fairer sex I've refrained from titling the photographs..
Rhesus Macaque
My wife and daughter went to have a darshan of the deity while I was busy 'shooting'. We all were tired & exhausted so decided to have some hot tea that would rejuvenate us.
Left Pandupol and headed towards the Kaalighati checkpost. Interestingly, this being a Friday and a day before the Holi celebrations were to start all over the country, the tourists & pilgrims were very few. At the checkpost asked if any calls were heard or sightings reported; it was negative. Decided to explore the Tehla area that was the domain of ST 3. Interestingly, the Tehla area is on a height on the hill and has only one artificial water hole that is periodically replenished by pumping water and a salt-pit next to it. Reached the waterhole and parked. A few Sambhars were drinking water & two Langurs were licking salt. It was a hunch. ST 3 had not been seen near that water-hole or any other in the last 24 hrs. So, it had to come out to drink water. We were intermittently dozing and I thought I heard 'PONK'. It was the Sambhar's alarm call.
The area around the water-hole came alive in a second. The salt-licking Langurs in a flash climbed the nearest tree and the Sambhars alert with their tail raised and nostrils trying to get the scent. The Sambhar called again and again and yet again. Then everything went silent. We strained our ears to hear a rustle or the sound of a twig breaking but nothing. After sometime we left as the Langurs came down and resumed licking and the Sambhars relaxed.
It was 5:15 pm and the day was nearing to end and the Park would close at 6. Gauri had disappointment written all over her face. Harisingh turned around and asked - "Ab kahan chale (now, where should we go)". On an instinct I said - 'Tarunda chalo. ST 4 ke marks usi taraf jaa rahe the. Lagta hai woh pyasa hai, paani jaroor piyega (Let's go to Tarunda. ST 4's marks were leading to that place. Seems he is thirsty, will surely drink water)'
We went to Tarunda, passed the man-made water-hole and reached a tri-junction at Bujaa. On the left a gypsy was parked whose occupant knew me from my several visits. He gestured and pointed towards the thicket. Rameshwar slowly took the jeep near that place, parked and lo behold the King was sleeping in the bushes. We waited for him to get up and move but the fellow wouldn't budge. In the meanwhile two more gypsies arrived and the squeals of excitement from one of the occupants made ST 4 to raise its head and look straight at me. I had to admonish them to keep silent.
The Sleeping Maharaja Head Up
Meanwhile puzzled, I asked Harisingh as to how the other two gypsies came to know. He said that the driver of the gypsy that was parked earlier had made a call and informed. I took out my mobile to check the signal. There was none. Mine is an Airtel 3G connection. I looked at Harisingh quizzically. His response - "yahan kai jagahon par BSNL chalta hai aur hum sabke paas BSNL connection hai (here, at most places BSNL works and we all have BSNL connection)".
I heard the sound of two more gypsies approaching and cursed BSNL. This time it were the two tracking jeeps. They set up their tracking gear and moved the antenna in various directions. The Tiger was sleeping 25 feet away in the bush, was visible to all but the tracking gadget wasn't receiving any signal. I asked the tracker to check if he was getting any signal of other Cats and sure enough a faint beep of ST 2 was heard. Light was falling fast and taking pictures was becoming a problem. I picked up the binocs to have a closer view and then I saw a white patch on the collar. When I had seen ST 4 last there wasn't any such patch on the collar. I asked the tracker about the white patch and he also said there wasn't any and if at all there is then the collar must've been damaged. I asked him to take a look from the binocs and he confirmed that indeed the collar was damaged, hence no signal. As I had mentioned earlier that I would explain as to why they were not getting signal, this was the reason. All along the Cat was nearby only and they must've passed through that place umpteen times but....
In the meanwhile I took a meter reading of the area through my lens and realised that if ST 4 came out I would't be able to take any picture at that low shutter speed. Boosted the ISO to 800.
Time: 18:40
It was 40 minutes past the Park closing time and we all were still here. Harisingh whispered - "Sir you shall be fined. Minimum Rs.250/- & maximum Rs.500/-". I said I would leave if all others leave and if they pay fine I too would.
In the meanwhile all this cacophony thoroughly disturbed the Cat and he got up and started moving out. Rameshwar smartly reversed and parked the jeep at a vantage point for me to take pictures. I had a clear view of the opening where ST 4 would emerge. And he emerged just 10 feet away in front of my jeep, stopped, turned his head and looked at me. It was to be a perfect shot but alas it wasn't.
I had prefocussed at that spot and was waiting. I have a fairly steady hand. The reading was 1/13 at f/2.8 at ISO 800. As I clicked, Rameshwar eased on the brake pedal and vehicle lurched. This is what I got
ST 4 - shaken & stirred
And then the Tiger moved further. Light had dipped further. The reading 1/15 at F/2.8 at ISO 800. As I clicked, a gypsy immediately behind my vehicle bumped into me. The result..
The Cat went into a bush and would emerge on the road in front of my jeep. I boosted the ISO to 3200 and the best I got was a 1/60 shutter speed at f/2.8. True to anticipation he emerged on the track and started walking towards that man made water hole right in front of my gypsy. Rameshwar followed her slowly, very very slowly.
Presenting the ST 4 catwalk
Gauri was very thrilled and happy to have seen a Tiger in the wild for the very first time. The look of contentment and happiness on her face made me forget all the gruelling running around done in the hot day.
Rameshwar turned around and raced towards the waterhole from another route to reach before ST 4 would reach there. We were the first one to arrive there and saw Basheer a forest guard with a RT unit in hand perched atop a tree. He was there to sight the Tiger and report to the base camp. We parked and the track on which he would come was right in line of my sight. I lifted my camera to see if I could. I realised I couldn't take a picture without a tripod or a flash. Flash I wouldn't use. It was 7:05 pm. I turned back.
Reached the exit gate. I was fined Rs.500/- for overstaying and so were the others. Settled accounts with Harisingh and left for home. Enroute stopped at Behror Midway to have something to eat. The treatment given was a pleasant surprise. Certain things had improved after my complaint (
post #: 134) to Rajasthan State Tourism Minister Mrs. Bina Kak about the pathetic service & condition of the RTDC joint. Reached home at 1 am.
This trip concluded...