[Varun_HexaGuy]

Originally Posted by paragsachania

Attachment 1003767

So, after driving my car for more than 183,000 kms, I get to see the RPM that I was normally driving it since all these years

Hey man,
Can you share me a recent pic of the tacho? I'm looking at retrofitting the tacho from the Ritz. I'm more interested in the mounting position and the way you've mounted it on the dash. A few pics would surely be of great help for me.


Thanks in advance

[DevOnWheels]

Hats off to you Parag sir..

Your thread has been an inspiration fornme to maintain my 2006 F10D Wagon R. Although it's only run 70000kms, it's still 15 years old. The oldest owned car in my extended family.

Attaching a few pics of my Waggy.

[navrddy]

I have 2010 BS3 F10D wagon R, running at 65K Kms, Clutch is stock and almost all parts are at stock except routine schedule maintenance replace parts.
Of late, recently i have uncomfortable ride over potholes, road undulations etc. I checked tyre pressure looks fine. I suspect probably suspension bushes would have gone out. Could any of experts suggest suitable FNG in nearby to HSR layout, Bangalore so that i can get them checked.

[Sreesh1009]

Originally Posted by navrddy

Of late, recently i have uncomfortable ride over potholes, road undulations etc. I checked tyre pressure looks fine. I suspect probably suspension bushes would have gone out. Could any of experts suggest suitable FNG in nearby to HSR layout, Bangalore so that i can get them checked.

You can check out Bay6 Motorworks/Swastika/Carsmith.
You will find the addresses and reviews of all three in the TBHP Directory.

[indiradhanush]

BHPians, i'm planning to purchase a WagonR myself. The choice is between a Tata Tiago and WagonR. Eventually, the rising cost of Petrol is nudging me towards a CNG vehicle...which means the WagonR is winning. Given the present pandemic situation, I may be travelling less than 400km a month. Wanted your guidance on whether I should opt for a CNG (considering it costs nearly 85k over the pure petrol in Mumbai) or buy a petrol and convert to CNG after 2-3 years. I've heard it is not a good idea to run a new car on CNG (though i'm not sure why). Thanking you in anticipation.

P.S : This will be my first vehicle.

[jigar1791@gmail]

Originally Posted by indiradhanush

BHPians, i'm planning to purchase a WagonR myself. The choice is between a Tata Tiago and WagonR. Eventually, the rising cost of Petrol is nudging me towards a CNG vehicle...which means the WagonR is winning. Given the present pandemic situation, I may be travelling less than 400km a month. Wanted your guidance on whether I should opt for a CNG (considering it costs nearly 85k over the pure petrol in Mumbai) or buy a petrol and convert to CNG after 2-3 years. I've heard it is not a good idea to run a new car on CNG (though i'm not sure why). Thanking you in anticipation.

P.S : This will be my first vehicle.

Go for the WagonR eyes closed. It is an easy to drive tall boy designed hatch, and the facelift is a decently sorted vehicle, backed by Maruti's strong serviceability reach.

Assuming you're to drive in Mumbai, the WagonR will be more than sufficient to take you from point A <--> point B. Factory fitted CNG is always more reliable and cheap rather than going for an after-pruchased kit fitted on a petrol car.

We have a 2019 Ciaz Petrol, and with a daily running of about 40 kms (Borivli-Powai), the ever increasing maddening traffic plus the reckless 2 wheelers and auto-rickshaws, forced us to look for a small CNG vehicle - and that's how we bought in a brand new WagonR. I'm glad we went ahead with this, and it did save a lot of fuel expenses for me (petrol expense a km was 8/- on Ciaz, in WagonR, it is coming to about 2.5/-)

Good luck with your purchase.

Regards,
Jigar Shah

[indiradhanush]

Originally Posted by jigar1791@gmail

Go for the WagonR eyes closed. It is an easy to drive tall boy designed hatch, and the facelift is a decently sorted vehicle, backed by Maruti's strong serviceability reach.

Assuming you're to drive in Mumbai, the WagonR will be more than sufficient to take you from point A <--> point B. Factory fitted CNG is always more reliable and cheap rather than going for an after-pruchased kit fitted on a petrol car.

We have a 2019 Ciaz Petrol, and with a daily running of about 40 kms (Borivli-Powai), the ever increasing maddening traffic plus the reckless 2 wheelers and auto-rickshaws, forced us to look for a small CNG vehicle - and that's how we bought in a brand new WagonR. I'm glad we went ahead with this, and it did save a lot of fuel expenses for me (petrol expense a km was 8/- on Ciaz, in WagonR, it is coming to about 2.5/-)

Good luck with your purchase.

Regards,
Jigar Shah

Thanks jigar1791@gmail. I was (and honestly, am still) somewhat apprehensive regarding the safety levels of a Maruti vis-a-vis Tata. But I suppose what you say does make sense since I won't be speeding in city roads anyways. Besides, given the cost per km incentive, I guess it makes economic sense as well

[kavesh55]

Sorry to bring an old thread alive. I have a 2009 Wagon R lxi done 37k kms. It went for a service at 24k and then at 37k kms.
1. It skipped a service between 24-37k
2. There was sm sludge formation
3. Engine was flushed with Abro flush and then run 20w50 oil for 3 mins before draining it out
4. Filled it with 5w30 Wurth engine oil
5. Earlier the car went to Sai Service for routine servicing, so oil would have been 20w 40

Following observations-
The idling rpm has increased
There is sm vibration in the gear lever
FE has decreased slightly
There is a harmonic/cylical vibration coming through.

Is the engine flush and 5w30 oils harmful for the engine? Manual says-20 w 50 oil
Is the vibration cos of the change?
Should I return to 20w50 to reduce vibrations. ?
All advice welcome.


Regards,
Kavesh

[procrj]

Originally Posted by indiradhanush

I may be travelling less than 400km a month. Wanted your guidance on whether I should opt for a CNG (considering it costs nearly 85k over the pure petrol in Mumbai)

Assuming the cost per km of driving a CNG is half that of petrol and given your driving of ~400km per month, you would approximately need to drive 25K kms to recover the adiitional outlay of 85K INR for CNG. This is not taking into consideration the extra cost of service, insurance etc. that might be added to a CNG car. 25K kms translates to 5+ years of driving based on your stated use of 400 kms per month. This to me doesnt make economic sense and you might just be better off buying the petrol wagonR and enjoy the drive.

Originally Posted by kavesh55

Engine was flushed with Abro flush

An engine flush has pros and cons, biggest minus is the exposure of cracked seals and rings which the sludge might have covered and stopped from leaking, which can worsen performance. The other challenge is undissolved or semi dissolved sludge, which can clog up the oil distribution system and starve the engine. Hence its necessary to ensure that all your seals and rings are in decent condition before flushing and replacing oil.

A 5W30 Syenthetic oil in istelf will not cause increase in idle RPM and vibrations. How much has the car run after the flush and oil change?

[paragsachania]

Originally Posted by procrj

A 5W30 Syenthetic oil in istelf will not cause increase in idle RPM and vibrations. How much has the car run after the flush and oil change?

I have mentioned in detail my experience after I shifted to a different grade against the standard 20w40 for my WagonR. It is 100% true that the idle RPMs, especially after long(cold) start will be higher than usual when on this oil. It is also a fact that the entire experience including the acceleration was better with this oil compared to 20w40.

Originally Posted by paragsachania

I am not using Synthetic Oil. I am rather using mineral (Or Semi Synthetic as you may want to call) which is now Maruti recommended for the K-Series Engines.
Attachment 1134315

This is certainly not fully Synthetic as I know it costs me a little more than 1000 INR for 3.7 Liters.

The Benefits from my experience:

The Idle RPM after a cold start is the biggest hint that this is free revving. While with 20w40 the car's Idle RPM after a cold start would be around 1500-1700 RPM, on 5w30 the RPM needle easily points beyond 2100-2200 during those early morning cranks.

This free revving nature of a comparatively thinner grade oil (5 vs 20) is easily evident when you try to redline (almost) to have some fun after paying at that Toll booth.

In fact, cruising at 110-120 KMPH with 4 Adults and boot and the AC On is effortless that I have often felt if I really need a replacement for this puny hatch!!

The Engine note is crisp and easily audible inside the cabin (Talk about the NVH and Damping in 2006).

However, there were no unnecessary vibrations on the gear lever Whatever the OP is facing could be indirectly related to this oil because of the change in idle RPM that would anyway settle to 800-850 after the engine warms up.

For vibrations on the gear lever, it is better to check the shifter mechanism as well as shifter boot rubber that may have worn out. As you know, this Model of WagonR didn't come with cables for gear shifting but had old school metal rods running beneath the car from the gear lever console to the gearbox.

[kavesh55]

Originally Posted by procrj

A 5W30 Syenthetic oil in istelf will not cause increase in idle RPM and vibrations. How much has the car run after the flush and oil change?

Since the car had run only 37000 kms and service up to 24000kms, so condition of seals and rings was good. The spark plug too when checked was clean.

After the oil change the car has run 100 kms or so. Incidentally changed oil on a friends car, a swift dzire with K series engine same time same oil. But it has taken as fish takes to water. Smoothness, acceleration,fuel efficiency has increased by a huge margin, i know because i use both the cars. My little wagonR is the one not doing that great.

[kavesh55]

Originally Posted by paragsachania

I have mentioned in detail my experience after I shifted to a different grade against the standard 20w40 for my WagonR. It is 100% true that the idle RPMs, especially after long(cold) start will be higher than usual when on this oil. It is also a fact that the entire experience including the acceleration was better with this oil compared to 20w40.



However, there were no unnecessary vibrations on the gear lever Whatever the OP is facing could be indirectly related to this oil because of the change in idle RPM that would anyway settle to 800-850 after the engine warms up.

For vibrations on the gear lever, it is better to check the shifter mechanism as well as shifter boot rubber that may have worn out. As you know, this Model of WagonR didn't come with cables for gear shifting but had old school metal rods running beneath the car from the gear lever console to the gearbox.

What can be the indirect reason? The vibrations did not exist before the oil change.

What can be done to correct? As it's giving me a lot a heartache. Eventual would be to sell the car and look something new.

[paragsachania]

Originally Posted by kavesh55

What can be the indirect reason?

Due to a change in the oil grade, your idle RPM at cold start has increased. As RPMs increase, the rhythm of vibrations from the engine changes. These vibrations are passed onto different parts of the car, including the gearbox. If the gear lever shake is really unruly, the only reasons I see are bad gear shifting mounts/rubber pads or it could also be slight misfire in one of the cylinders out of 4.

Have you got the spark plugs replaced or cleaned? If so, better to check the gaps again fit the plugs again. Also, I have always preferred NGK over Champion for spark plugs. Both are OE for F10D engine. The NGK model is DCPR7E. They are a LOT better than the Champions.

[kavesh55]

Originally Posted by paragsachania

Due to a change in the oil grade, your idle RPM at cold start has increased. As RPMs increase, the rhythm of vibrations from the engine changes. These vibrations are passed onto different parts of the car, including the gearbox. If the gear level shake is really unruly, the only reasons I see are bad gear shifting mounts/rubber pads or it could also be slight misfire in one of the cylinders out of 4.

Have you got the spark plugs replaced or cleaned? If so, better to check the gaps again fit the plugs again. Also, I have always preferred NGK over Champion for spark plugs. Both are OE for F10D engine. The NGK model is DCPR7E. They are a LOT better than the Champions.

The plugs are original NGK ones, the gaps were not played with just cleaned with petrol and put back again.

I'm ok with the cold start rpm due to the thinner oil. My concern is the idle rpm when the engine has heated up mostly waiting at signals, little humming and vibration, not present earlier. Yes the acceleration has increased by a huge margin, car leaps forward. I am a sedate driver, smoothness n lower nvh more preffered by me than outright acceleration.

Also the fuel efficiency has dropped, I wouldn't want to fidget with the company rpm settings.

[paragsachania]

Originally Posted by kavesh55

Also the fuel efficiency has dropped, I wouldn't want to fidget with the company rpm settings.

Buy 3.7 Liters of 20w40, remove existing oil and top it up with 20w40. If problem vanishes, your car is good with 20w40 and stick to that. I would do that if I am so confident that the changes were only after the oil was changed. Also, soon after you put 20w40, be ready to experience sluggishness which will be evident almost immediately.

Regarding fidgeting with RPM settings, you actually cannot do that since its driven by the ECM anyway. Even if you adjust the throttle cable, the ECM will take the adjusted throttle position as Point 0 and hence idle RPMs after warm up will always remain the same.

I have never faced any of the issues that you refer and I have used this oil quite a few times despite of the fact that I have driven it for over 2.5 Lac Km. Only thing I am wary about now is to not use fully synthetic oil at this stage which I will refrain.