[n_aditya]

Originally Posted by ebonho

The difference between this fully synthetic and yours is that it is single ester while yours is double.

300V Racing Line is a double ester fully synth oil while 7100 is a single ester fully synth oil.

The 300v costs around 950 bucks a liter here.

[ebonho]

Originally Posted by n_aditya

300V Racing Line is a double ester fully synth oil while 7100 is a single ester fully synth oil.

The 300v costs around 950 bucks a liter here.

Hmmmmm ..... so this 500 buck one is also single ester fully synthetic (can't recall the name). Much more reasonable.

I honestly believe that sometimes we get too obsessed with oil. Oil is oil, and beyond a point, when you calculate rupees to kilometer, it does increase the running costs, and becomes an exercise in diminishing returns.

99% of the guys who claim "oh my bike has become so smooth, gear shifts like butter" do not realise that its natural when you suck the life out of an oil trying to stretch it till the next change (because of the ridiculous price you paid for it) and then you finally change that thinned out carbon/crud soaked dirty oil and put in new oil - ANY OIL (yes even the cheapest Lal Ghoda grade mineral) - your bike will by default feel and run better, smoother, cooler.

[n_aditya]

Originally Posted by ebonho

99% of the guys who claim "oh my bike has become so smooth, gear shifts like butter" do not realise that its natural when you suck the life out of an oil trying to stretch it till the next change (because of the ridiculous price you paid for it) and then you finally change that thinned out carbon/crud soaked dirty oil and put in new oil - ANY OIL (yes even the cheapest Lal Ghoda grade mineral) - your bike will by default feel and run better, smoother, cooler.

.

While the ninja owners manual recommends an oil change once every 12k kms i change it every 5k kms. I have been doing this religiously for every oil change.

The switch from semi-synth to 7100 was very noticeable in terms of smoothness and refinement in the engine.

[ebonho]

Originally Posted by n_aditya

The switch from semi-synth to 7100 was very noticeable in terms of smoothness and refinement in the engine.

What many riders also need to understand is that the manual recommendations do not take into account time. Oil DOES degrade with time out inside the engine. Especially in wekend bikes/garage queens.

At how man kms did you make the switch to fully synthetic?

[n_aditya]

Originally Posted by ebonho

At how many kms did you make the switch to fully synthetic?

I switched to Semi Synth 5100 at 3700 kms and to fully synth 7100 at 10,000 kms. Now the clock reads some 26,800 odd kms.

[Sheel]

LOL Doc. Precisely the reason my obsession with oils took an all time low when the 300V poured in the Karizma showed low level in exact 1.700kms of usage.

These air cooled Motorcycles do the best with mineral or semi.

For this reason alone, I stuck to OE oil with the R15 & doing the same with my CBR and the Ford.

Edit : For Pulsar, it has to be the Valvoline 4 T Premium though.

[ariendj]

Motul new chart for oils and required performance.

[sai_ace]

This is an interesting chart.

Both my apaches (150 and rtr Efi) have had synthetic oil - Motul 300v. And I found them really good. Any mineral oil and the bikes feel rough.

With the Apache 150 semi synthetic seems fine, whereas with the fi even an SS made the engine feel very sluggish and no enthusiasm to rev . The Oil in question was Shell Advance Semi synthetic.

The best oil so far I have experienced for my fi was the Petronas FS (don remember the grade) . The engine was noticeably smoother, revved hard and the oil survived for around 5K kms - used to regularly check up. The oil was drained but the mech claimed it still had another 1000 kms in it.

Personally I think i will stick to the 300v FS but would love to try the 7100 once. After all the motul guys should know best.

Anyways - Anyone here knows the Motul dealer or the Petronas dealer here in bangalore?

cheers!
sai

[sagarpadaki]

Originally Posted by ebonho

There is one grade between the two which is also fully synthetic and splits the price differential.

The 3100 Gold is 350 bucks, and this fully synthetic one is some 500-540.

The difference between this fully synthetic and yours is that it is single ester while yours is double.

Synthetics are a waste in standards at the rate they consume/burn/belch out oil. Minerals flushed out with all the crud at regular intervals is the way to go there.

And from what I am reading elsewhere on another Duke thread, the 7100 actually is getting used up as guys are finding the levels dipping sharply midway through the fill interval. Somehow not so with the 3100 Gold.

That one grade oil which is between mineral and synthetic is Motul 5100 which is semi-synthetic.Frankly i havent noticed any drastic improvement over 3100 with this oil

I switched over to 300V synthetic @ 2000 km mark on my pulsar 180 UG3 and continued using it till 26000 kms. And even i have the same experience.Oil level used to dip and needed a top up every 2000 kms or so.Used to run for 7000 kms before i change the oil.But the quality of the oil is top notch! No second thoughts about that!

Originally Posted by ebonho

Hmmmmm ..... so this 500 buck one is also single ester fully synthetic (can't recall the name). Much more reasonable.

I honestly believe that sometimes we get too obsessed with oil. Oil is oil, and beyond a point, when you calculate rupees to kilometer, it does increase the running costs, and becomes an exercise in diminishing returns.

99% of the guys who claim "oh my bike has become so smooth, gear shifts like butter" do not realise that its natural when you suck the life out of an oil trying to stretch it till the next change (because of the ridiculous price you paid for it) and then you finally change that thinned out carbon/crud soaked dirty oil and put in new oil - ANY OIL (yes even the cheapest Lal Ghoda grade mineral) - your bike will by default feel and run better, smoother, cooler.

I slightly tend to disagree here. When i changed from motul 5100 to Agip 20W50 the difference was way too noticeable. Engine became rough and started giving out vibes at over 6000 RPM which never happened with the motul.And i had run the motul for nearly 3K kms before i changed it. And it was black when drained. Agip, even though fresh oil , never gave the refinement level of the motul. But the motul 5100 is not a VFM since you have the motul 3100 at a much lower price which is almost as smooth as 5100.

Originally Posted by Sheel

LOL Doc. Precisely the reason my obsession with oils took an all time low when the 300V poured in the Karizma showed low level in exact 1.700kms of usage.

These air cooled Motorcycles do the best with mineral or semi.

For this reason alone, I stuck to OE oil with the R15 & doing the same with my CBR and the Ford.

Edit : For Pulsar, it has to be the Valvoline 4 T Premium though.

Is valvoline 4T such good oil for pulsar? My bike is due for a oil change this weekend and am planning to try this out!

[ebonho]

Valvoline is a very good oil for Bullet too. Used it once on my std 500 but cannot find it anymore. It comes in a polypack sachet type thingy with a plastic screw on cap at the top (like tomato sauce .....).

[(Alok)]

Friends,
I need to change engine oil in a Machismo A 350. Owner’s Manual of 2009 model machismo says for 20w 40 API SF grade (no writing about JASO MA certification).
I did not found any oil for such grade. All 20w 40s are JASO MA certified, whereas 3 box engine enfields do not required JASO certification.
Any one knows 20w 40 grade oil (without JASO certification)?
thanks

[(Alok)]

Bhpians
Previously whenever I searched oil for my vehicles, I prefer the latest API grade available in market with manufacturer recommended SAE viscosity.
When I googled, I found that there is a big discussion about API latest grades SM & SN on internet because of lowered quantity of anti-wear chemicals like phosphorus & zinc etc.
Then I started to read carefully the language oil manufacturers states. At present API SF to API SL is commonly available grades in market (Castrol magnetic is available in API SN).

For example here is the language from gulf oil india

This is from motorcycle oil section.
20w 40 & 20w 50:
API SL and Valve Train Wear Requirements of API SM
Recommended for air cooled 4-stroke motorcycle engines where an API SL and JASO MA2 quality oil is required


10w 30: All Hero Honda motorcycles and new age bikes of other manufacturers for which API SL, SAE 10W-30 oil is recommended

What is this valve train wear requirement of API SM?

Are these oils only to use where bike manufacturers has recommended API SL grade?

My bikes are having recommendation of API SF, SG grades (Std 350 & Machismo A 350, Spl 1998 & Pulsar 2003).

Should I go with above products (or any other API SL oil)? Is there a chance to face early cam shaft, and rocker wear?

[junaid12345678]

My CBZ Xtreme is due for an oil change and I have decided to switch to another brand of fully synthetic though I never had any problems with shell Advanced fully synthetic. Went to Kaikkara Autos, Trivandrum and asked for motul but my required grade was not available at the shop and finally settled for Mobil 1 Racing 4t 10W40 fully synthetic for 800 bucks. I haven't changed the oil yet, so no comments on the performance front.

[girishglg]

Please advise on the engine oil change for my Discover 125.

Also please suggest -

1. Which engine oil is best suited to Discover
2. What quantity should I buy or would be required
3. What frequency is best to change the oil (mine has run 2.3k after the previous change)
4. Should this be a topup or a drain and refill exercise

[Scarlet_Rider]

Originally Posted by girishglg

Please advise on the engine oil change for my Discover 125.

My daily ride is a 2007 Bajaj Discover 135. As mentioned in the owner's manual I change the engine oil (on my own) every 5000 kms.

For the last two oil changes I have been using Shell Advance AX5 which has a viscosity grade of 20W-40, which is specified in the owner's manual. I buy it from a Shell fuel outlet.

I was previously using Castrol Power 1 but after switching to Shell Advance AX5, I felt the engine to be a lot smoother. The Shell Advance AX5 comes in packs of 900ml and 1 litre. The Discover 135 needs 1 litre.

Please do check the owner's manual for the oil grade, quantity and frequency of change. For Discover 125, I think it should be the same as Discover 135.

I keep checking the oil level every 1000 kms and never had the need to top up despite the bike being driven mostly in city traffic.

In case the oil level drops before the scheduled change, you will need to top it up and also find out why the oil consumption has increased. For a scheduled oil change, it should be a complete drain and refill exercise that should also include inspecting and replacing the rubber O-rings of the drain nut and oil filter if required.

Regards and Keep Revving,

Rahul Waghmare.