Team-BHP - 1990 M&M Cj340
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Quote:

Originally Posted by svsantosh (Post 2473302)
Samu, you would be surprised the this operation took only 10 mins max. See the position of the spanner used by my mech.

This side with the tiny little thread is what is visible from outside and the wire connects here.

Samu - this is the exact position in which the solenoid came out, did not need a box spanner, nor did any other filter/pipe came out of the way. Only the engine breather pipe was removed...

It came out easily, so filter removal was needed. If it is slightly rusted, then you can't turn the spanner in this angle.

Quote:

Originally Posted by svsantosh (Post 2473302)
FIP without the solenoid in it - Ps, there was tiny amount of dust visible in here, mech quickly pumped the filter and diesel gushed out taking out the dust along with it.

Where is the choke connected to stop the fuel flow? It is not clear from photo.

Quote:

Originally Posted by Sutripta (Post 2473320)
Thiefproofing a Jeep is difficult.

There are ways. See here: https://www.team-bhp.com/forum/4x4-v...ml#post1973850

Quote:

Originally Posted by Sutripta (Post 2473320)
Thief proofing a Jeep is difficult

Lets discuss this more over a tea? ;-)

Quote:

Originally Posted by Samurai (Post 2473371)
Where is the choke connected to stop the fuel flow? It is not clear from photo

My bad, after posting the pics I realized I dont have a good pic for the cable operation. Let me post 1 in evening...

Quote:

Originally Posted by Samurai (Post 2473371)
Where is the choke connected to stop the fuel flow? It is not clear from photo

Does this help?

MOV0009A - YouTube

Quote:

Originally Posted by Samurai (Post 2473371)

I like your highly visible gearlock idea.

Quote:

Originally Posted by svsantosh (Post 2473631)
Lets discuss this more over a tea? ;-)

Sure, but who'll keep an eye on your Jeep then!

Regards
Sutripta

Quote:

Originally Posted by svsantosh (Post 2469698)
Gogi - engine bay - NO NO... Everywhere else, np. If you have seen the 'thar' used in road surface, this is just that. It is not a easily combustable material. Even under a welders torch it will only melt and deform and start to smoulder but not flame out as in paper, for example.

Even if have/wish to, I cannot take it out of the jeep now!! It is that sticky and has already bonded to the sheet metal like skin. I need a kerosene blow torch to burn/melt out the entire stuff out!! Two days in hot sun in the same position as pic ^ has made it a permanent mod!!

As for the wuerth treatment - do a DIY. Get a 3M antirust paint can (not exactly a paint, it is called rubber paint in local shops), get a brush and some petrol/thinner, thin the product and just spend 30mins to cover the entire floor.

Im thinking, another hot day and the floor starts to stick to your shoes??

Quote:

Originally Posted by beejay (Post 2473098)
Talking about push start, in the last two weeks, three jeeps have been stolen from Coonoor. High time we think of some real fool proof mechanism to prevent theft.

I have an engine cut of switch from hella. Costs around Rs. 230/-

Quote:

Originally Posted by fazalaliadil (Post 2473181)
Gogi Bhai,

Raptor (2 coats) has an advantage, it comes out thicker than Wurth, which translates into better dynamics, lesser road sound, less vibration. Use Wurth for under body. I did too.

I have not done any matting yet, or pasting heatlon on the vertical fire wall which is due after monsoons, this will bring down the present heat and noise levels radically. Another advantage with Raptor is its anti corrosive properties, during AKC and EXAMM, and until I got back to Hyderabad, there was water and dampness on the cabin floor all through due to rains and water fording, still not a spot of rust.
Regards,

Great. is Raptor available locally? I would like to know if there are dealers in Bombay.

Quote:

Originally Posted by V-16 (Post 2474826)
Im thinking, another hot day and the floor starts to stick to your shoes??

No say gogi, this does not melt so faast. PS - this isnt meant to be a floor mat in the 1st place. This will bond with the metal to form a thick paint'ish layer. You do need some rubber mat atop all this!!

Quote:

I have an engine cut of switch from hella. Costs around Rs. 230/-
Pic plz? Is it a battery cut off switch? And does the key resemble a 10mm roundish pipe with a small stub in one end?

Quote:

Originally Posted by svsantosh (Post 2475026)
No say gogi, this does not melt so faast. PS - this isnt meant to be a floor mat in the 1st place. This will bond with the metal to form a thick paint'ish layer. You do need some rubber mat atop all this!

Hmmm, in that case its worth a try. Imagine, Wurth sks stone guard/Raptor or the above mentioned stuff, then a layer of heat lon and then rubber matting, should insulate the cabin enough from heat and nvh levels. Great tip Santosh, will try it mostly.

Quote:

Pic plz? Is it a battery cut off switch? And does the key resemble a 10mm roundish pipe with a small stub in one end?
Its this thing exactly Santosh. Its a kill switch or what we call a Chor switch (actually should be called Anti Chor switch:D). Read the post marked in the link below, precisely post #25

http://www.team-bhp.com/forum/4x4-te...ml#post2209160

i have the post23 walla by fazal. only difference is it is not hidden in then firewall. I have it bang on the dash right below the data plate. I just take away both the JAY ignition and this thick battery cut off switch.

http://www.team-bhp.com/forum/attach...0-dsc_0100.jpg

Did a mini otr with lot of slush challenge. Actually - never did so much!! slush in my 2 years of jeeping, loved every bit of it. Longest slush obstacle was around 50 feet, continuous GUN the pedal and clear it, loved it.

Got stuck royally in 1 of the slush places - it was a supposedly shorter, 15ft max types - but 1 white elephant ;) (~2tons) was beached there earlier thus making it pretty deep.

Anyways - ^ all regular slush/OTR talk, but highlight was 1st ever self-recovery using my runva winch. I was stuck pretty deep in slush (about a feet in) - and attached myself to a 540 and winched myself out. Good feeling to see a doubtful product prove itself, even if it wasnt a continuous winch pull...

Quote:

Originally Posted by svsantosh (Post 2484971)
Did a mini otr with lot of slush challenge. Actually - never did so much!! slush in my 2 years of jeeping, loved every bit of it. Longest slush obstacle was around 50 feet, continuous GUN the pedal and clear it, loved it.

Got stuck royally in 1 of the slush places - it was a supposedly shorter, 15ft max types - but 1 white elephant ;) (~2tons) was beached there earlier thus making it pretty deep.

Anyways - ^ all regular slush/OTR talk, but highlight was 1st ever self-recovery using my runva winch. I was stuck pretty deep in slush (about a feet in) - and attached myself to a 540 and winched myself out. Good feeling to see a doubtful product prove itself, even if it wasnt a continuous winch pull...

Hi Santosh,

Use a snatch block to make things easier for your winch.

Regards,

Arka

some pics of the mini otr and slush fest and winching operation.

1990 M&M Cj340-_mg_2617.jpg

1990 M&M Cj340-_mg_4708.jpg

1990 M&M Cj340-_mg_4826.jpg

1990 M&M Cj340-_mg_4858.jpg

1990 M&M Cj340-_mg_4916.jpg

1990 M&M Cj340-_mg_4919.jpg

1990 M&M Cj340-_mg_4922.jpg

Some technical updates:

1) UNIPAK Kit Steering Connecting Rod - Part# 923418 --

1990 M&M Cj340-kit1.jpg

1990 M&M Cj340-kit2.jpg

1990 M&M Cj340-kit3.jpg

This kit consists of around 15 tiny parts. This Kit is used in the 'connecting rod' that connects the stering box to bell crank (nearly all old jeeps). There is also 2 grease nipple points in the con-rod. This kit helps in damping/reducing play in the steering wheel and if any part is missing - it will cause a kat-kat noise when turning the wheel.

I had a case of very loud KATAK sound on any left/right turns - cause was I had less than 8 pieces of the whole kit left after the recent rebuild. When the tinker had removed the tub (& steering box), he put back only what he thought was needed!!!

2) Winch plate Design Vs Visibility of chassis number for insurance/legal--

Last week I renewed the insurance policy and had a rude shock when I realized that to take a 'stencil trace' of the jeep chassis#, I need to remove the winch!! Thankfully even the engine# is just sufficient as the chassis #. Beware - else I would have had to remove the whole thing!!

1990 M&M Cj340-chassis.jpg

3) ICE/Audio player Options --

Noticed a TVS Auto in a stand with a really pleasent sounding audio unlike the loudish other kinds... Spoke to the owner and was shocked to this gadget.

1990 M&M Cj340-auto-1.jpg

1990 M&M Cj340-auto-audio.jpg

It is a 700Rs mini MP3/media audio player which accepts a USB device, it is around 1.5inches in dia and so tiny!! Best part is it was powering two 3 or 4Inch round speakers in the rear parcel tray by itself. Cant believe this tiny device can pack such a nice punch!! Has FM too!! PS - End of the ride, it can be unplugged from the circuit and can be taken home!!

Quote:

Originally Posted by svsantosh (Post 2484971)
Got stuck royally in 1 of the slush places - it was a supposedly shorter, 15ft max types - but 1 white elephant ;) (~2tons) was beached there earlier thus making it pretty deep.

Santosh I'm interested to know how the Endeavour did in this outing. Do tell?

Santosh,
I am placing an order of Mp3 with USB thing with you. I trust all these outlandish things can be available only in Hosur and not in bangalore, (went looking for it and did not find)

Andy

Santosh Sir,
i am intrigued by this little MP3 player, can you please buy one for me also. sometimes its dreary driving long without music.
Agree with Grace, i too searched in Pune but couldn't get this type of small MP3 player
Thanks in Advance.

Regards,
Shubhendra Singh


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