[Sprucegoose]

2 Bulk Packs thats equal to 72 Feet.

Will that be "enough", "just about enough" or "more than enough" for stage 3 damping of the car ?

and how big a hole will that burn through my pockets?

[karankapoor]

See out of 72 Sqft approx 48 will go in 4 door (3 stage ) now you are left with 24 Sqft this will be more then sufficient for the boot lid and boot floor. You will require more material for the floor/roof so will say first damp the doors and then move forward.

I might sound funny but why you want to do all this ?

[DocG]

1) For what purpose do you wish to damp your car? (Road noise or ICE?)
2) What ICE are you running?
3) For which car?
4) Budget

From your profile I believe you have an OHC? The amount of damping you need all depends upon what your expectations are.

I've recently used 2 bulk packs 72 sq ft of Dynamat Extreme in my Accord and all that is only for my boot and front doors. I'll be using another 2 bulk packs for rear doors, floor, roof and firewall soon enough, along with the Wurth underbody spray.

Even with just my front doors and boot I can really notice a hardcore difference than from before!!!

An example:
1) Damping to be done for ICE which includes major reduction in road noise.
2) Wait for a new thread on that
3) 2003 Honda Accord 2.4 MT
4) My total damping budget is around INR 50,000 (So far only 25,000 into it)

[Sprucegoose]

This is all long term planning..

current got kicker components in front
JBL ovals at the back
and a pioneer HU

the problem right now is that my listening pleasure depends on the road surface im driving on.

[DerAlte]

Originally Posted by DocG

1) For what purpose do you wish to damp your car? (Road noise or ICE?)
...
4) My total damping budget is around INR 50,000 (So far only 25,000 into it)

Damping is *always* for road noise, isn't it? The only other culprit is sympathetic panel resonance induced by road and engine vibrations.

ICE itself does not affect the metal parts (or rather, the noise induced in metal by ICE is not so much of a problem) - it affects the plastic / FRP parts and causes rattling and buzzing. Rattling and buzzing is best removed by other means (staying the part down mechanically properly) - that's why experienced installers judiciously use cotton waste, waste foam and thermocol, instead of putting large swathes of damping sheet everywhere.

When the money is not hard-earned, it acts like a hammer - and then everything else looks like nails! Most other people need to think many times how to get the best returns from the least investment of their hard-earned money.

[Sprucegoose]

@ DerAlte : When the money is not hard-earned, it acts like a hammer - and then everything else looks like nails! Most other people need to think many times how to get the best returns from the least investment of their hard-earned money.

unfortunately my money is hardly earned, or rather hardly any money is earned
but since damping is a one time procedure i don't mind spending a bomb.
it'll just take more time.

[DerAlte]

@sprucegoose, the comment wasn't directed at you!:-) *Of course* YOU get to decide how your hard-earned money is spent. Others will only point out that there are more than 1 way of achieving the same result - and leave it at that.

[Sprucegoose]

i know the comment wasn't directed at me

i just tried to sqeeze in a corny one liner [one of my many bad habits]

I want very good damping [the best possible im sure will be too expensive]

I'd rather, of course, go for any cheaper alternative as long as it does not come at the cost of performance or even longevity.

I don't even mind experimenting with like a NK sheets + Weurth damping liquid, as was mentioned earlier in this thread, as long as it is reversible if things go horribly wrong.

PS: Im going quite OT here,

but none of this will happen for atleast 6-8 months.
I've just spent around 1L getting the car completely overhauled
Pedders suspension, Short Pipe FFE, Pipercross Air Filter + Plumbing, general servicing & a paint job.

I just want to plot a course [for the car] and then follow it.

From the ICE POV,
Damping the car and then upgrading the ICE itself.

[DocG]

Originally Posted by DerAlte

Damping is *always* for road noise, isn't it? The only other culprit is sympathetic panel resonance induced by road and engine vibrations.

ICE itself does not affect the metal parts (or rather, the noise induced in metal by ICE is not so much of a problem) - it affects the plastic / FRP parts and causes rattling and buzzing. Rattling and buzzing is best removed by other means (staying the part down mechanically properly) - that's why experienced installers judiciously use cotton waste, waste foam and thermocol, instead of putting large swathes of damping sheet everywhere.

When the money is not hard-earned, it acts like a hammer - and then everything else looks like nails! Most other people need to think many times how to get the best returns from the least investment of their hard-earned money.

WOW I feel like I'm running around with a big bulls eye on my back. I don't know why people assume that since I spent some money here and there I must be some rich brat who gets a few lakhs a month as allowance!

Trust me sir I work just as hard if not harder for my money. But I do believe that if you're doing something do it as best as you can. I don't know if you know this, but my ICE has been pending for well over a year. I saved up for the last 15 months and dumped all I had into this, and I'm still in over my head!

Please don't get me wrong, but it's stupid and insensitive to assume that all rich people get everything handed to them!

And WRT the other materials, yes I've used some of that too. But one can't deny that damping material produces the best results.

And trust me put 2 SPL woofers in a sedan and I'll show you metal vibrate like hell, not FRP, not plastic, but the entire boot lid flexing and popping!

[DerAlte]

Originally Posted by Sprucegoose

... go for any cheaper alternative as long as it does not come at the cost of performance or even longevity. ...

Good plan, @sprucegoose, we pray you achieve all your objectives - all the best!

It is not about how much money we spend, it is about appropriate solutions. In some cases, staying down a loose cable and wrapping a loose connector with closed-cell foam gives more benefit than applying damping sheet to the panel it is striking on! That's what experienced installers (like Anwar in Bangalore) do.

Originally Posted by DocG

... Trust me sir I work just as hard if not harder for my money. But I do believe that if you're doing something do it as best as you can. ...
And trust me put 2 SPL woofers in a sedan and I'll show you metal vibrate like hell, not FRP, not plastic, but the entire boot lid flexing and popping!

At ease, Doc, no one intends malice towards you here! What matters is how you put your point / give an advice, since some of your expressions lead one to believe your favorite game is "mine is bigger than yours"!

OK, so we will remember @docg = SPL && !SQL && !definitely-common-ICE! The problem that you described - "metal vibrate like hell, not FRP, not plastic, but the entire boot lid flexing and popping" - is not a problem that conventional damping solves. I have seen 26 students stuff themselves into one M800, but one cannot extend the logic to say "an M800 can carry 26 people".

[ST7677]

Originally Posted by DocG

1) For what purpose do you wish to damp your car? (Road noise or ICE?)
2) What ICE are you running?
3) For which car?
4) Budget

From your profile I believe you have an OHC? The amount of damping you need all depends upon what your expectations are.

I've recently used 2 bulk packs 72 sq ft of Dynamat Extreme in my Accord and all that is only for my boot and front doors. I'll be using another 2 bulk packs for rear doors, floor, roof and firewall soon enough, along with the Wurth underbody spray.

Even with just my front doors and boot I can really notice a hardcore difference than from before!!!

An example:
1) Damping to be done for ICE which includes major reduction in road noise.
2) Wait for a new thread on that
3) 2003 Honda Accord 2.4 MT
4) My total damping budget is around INR 50,000 (So far only 25,000 into it)

This would be waste of time and money, it would not give you anything more than adding weight to your car and slowing it down.

Multiple layers of damping has become a thing of past, the world has moved on since then. Today there are better and more appropriate materials available to reach your objective be it an SQ car, and SPL car or a pure low noise car.

[DocG]

Originally Posted by ST7677

This would be waste of time and money, it would not give you anything more than adding weight to your car and slowing it down.

Multiple layers of damping has become a thing of past, the world has moved on since then. Today there are better and more appropriate materials available to reach your objective be it an SQ car, and SPL car or a pure low noise car.

Sir I admire your sub selection. Many of my friends stateside praise it to no end. A 15 incher must mean some serious SPL.

Anyway as per my damping is concerned, actually there is very little multi layering in my application. The doors are large, and have been damped completely with a single layer, the accord is also plagued with a huge boot that needs serious damping. Having 2 subs and running a reasonable amount of power to them can actually cause havoc in a car like this.

My rear license plate bezel keeps coming loose, and I need to find a solution to keep it in place. Some rattles have developed in the rear tray which I need to address.

In reality, one says too much, and the other says too little. My goal was and is to eliminate as much road noise as possible, I am quite happy with the outcome, which is why I'm still at only 2 bulk packs. Probably will use 1 more sheet of DE to address the minor rattles that have been caused.

Am also more and more keen on getting an underbody spray or sludge, especially for the wheel wells.

Bottom Line: I know some consider what I'm doing to be excessive, but I can confidently say that there is a night and day difference post damping.

I welcome people to come and check out my car in person if they'd like to see and quantify the difference themselves.

[Gill]

What is the thickness of Noisekill sheet? 50 mil or 80mil?

[hrsraghav]

My car is in its bare minimum at service staion for repair work.
Whole engine bay empty, seats removed, mats too removed.
Only the roof have the factory fitted fabric.
I am planning to use this opportunity to do the damping.
The engine bay has a Black thick sheet covered by some silevrish metal, I suppose hats for heat shielding. In the inside od car behind the dash board and on overalll floor, a thick green colored fabric is there, which is removed now. Below it there are few patches of some black sheets of rubber.
Please let me know, what all can be done to have a more silent cabin, and as the car is at serice station, so all the work has to be done by me only. I can't take it somewhere else.

Regards
Harish Raghav
FIAT Adventure 1.6 Sports

[DerAlte]

Not much you need to do, really, since most of it is already damped. The 'heat shielding' you see is actually damping, and so is the green felt. In places it resonates the most they have applied damping sheets.

The firewall (behind the dash) and the floor pan could do with some damping. Might be a messy job since there might have been rubber-based adhesive holding the felt to the floor. You will need a lot of elbow grease to scrape the remnants off and scrub it clean. Once you have got it clean with some brake oil and then some thinner, apply damping sheets with a hot air gun.

You have a larger roof than sedans or hatchbacks. See if the workshop can remove the ceiling cloth and check if the roof is damped. If not, then put some damping on the inside of the roof (can be pieces, need not be the whole, as long as you are breaking up large expanses).

In any case, do the doors and the rear wheel wells.