[adityamunshi]

Thanks, ill try and look for them.

Originally Posted by DigitalSoul

You should get them for 6 - 6.5k depending on your location and source

[RavenAvi]

Originally Posted by DigitalSoul

Don't worry much! Ultimates's pricing looks ok to me.
Least price in US is $ 89 on Amazon and Ebay India is
Rs. 7871 but Import from USA

Here's small checklist that you may use -

1. Ask your dealer if he is going to give you proper bill by mentioning make, model, serial no and warranty with dealer stamp.
2. As mentioned above, do proper inspection of speakers and packaging. Hear them well before/after installation.
3. Last but not least - Believe in your luck.. After all that's most important !!!

Originally Posted by scopriobharath

I agree - 10K is way too less for Focal PS165. It retails at 30,000/- in india will bill and warranty. 10K no way. It costs 350 USD which by the wildest imagination is no less than 20,000 INR. Do double check with the shopkeeper and is it with "company" bill and warranty (Warranty Card) or just the dealer's warranty ?

Thanks, my friends.

Clarification from the Focal guy - the range of Focal speakers he has starts from 10,000/-, and that was not the price quoted for the 165s. The 165s will cost 27K. My guy had a long talk with him, and after that he told me he will give company bill + standard warranty, completely stamped.

And 27K is a lot, and way over-budget for me for a pair of comps. Thinking of going all JBLs for front, rear & amp.

[satish_appasani]

I have a question on dampening. I am planning to dampen my Accent Viva. My installer says that it is sufficient to just completely cover the outer surface of the door. How important is it to dampen the inner surface? Is it ok if i apply the dampening on the inner panel just the areas visible through the gaps of the outer surface?

I am not having a sub woofer. But still i am planning to dampen the trunk lid because Accent's sheet metal is very light and vibrates like heel. Is it ok if i just dampen the trunk lid rather than dampening all the walls of the trunk?

My installer is quoting about Rs.7000 (2200/sheet) for dampening with Dynamat extreme. Is it fair price?

[jits_1998]

Originally Posted by greenhorn

If you can trade in your new sony coaxes for a pair of entry level 6.5" comps, you should be able to manage within that much.

I just have a 2 Ch amplifier, it will be connected to support the woofer. Will the comps be fine without the amp? One of the high-end vendors told me comp is not fun without the amp.

Thanks.

[cranky]

Will the comps be fine without the amp?

I run my Focals off the stock Linea HU and they sound fine.

Then again I'm not very critical of music in a car, as long as I can hear it and things sound reasonably close to passable I'm fine. The stock Linea speakers didn't even manage that.

[sparsh]

The same comps would sound even better and sharp when connected to an amp. I do have an i10 which is driven by a Pioneer 8000 BT Head Unit and I could clearly feel the difference between the speakers driven by HU vis a vis through the amp. Its more evident when you listen songs which have strong instrumental music around. As you said, there is no hard and fast rule that comps have to be run via an amp. At the end of the day, its important for you to be happy with the sound

[jits_1998]

Hi Guys,

My basic setup for my i10:

1. Pioneer 1390 (cd/aux)
2. Sony 190w co-axials in all 4-doors
3. 2 Pioneer ovals in the wooden tray
4. 1 kenwood sub woofer
5. 2 Ch Alpine amp

Cost items will be:

1. Tray+sockets+woofer box = 1250/-
2. Wiring kit = 1500/-

Total 2750/-

Do I need the speakers in rear door with ovals in the tray ?

Upgrade options depend on answer to above question :-).

Thanks.

[blackfire_9]

Hey mate,

Just out of curiosity, is there any specific reason towards considering the Dynamat?

Dynamat may be better for 'n' number of reasons, but certain other brands like Wurth also manufacture quality damping sheets that are surely worth a try. Do give them a look, especially they would work out cheaper when compared to Dynamat.

Drive safe.

Originally Posted by satish_appasani

dampening with Dynamat extreme

[satish_appasani]

Originally Posted by blackfire_9

Hey mate,

Just out of curiosity, is there any specific reason towards considering the Dynamat?

Dynamat may be better for 'n' number of reasons, but certain other brands like Wurth also manufacture quality damping sheets that are surely worth a try. Do give them a look, especially they would work out cheaper when compared to Dynamat.

Drive safe.

I will look out for other alternatives. But please do suggest on the application part.

[blackfire_9]

The application part as far as I know, is done by first heating the sheets with a hot air gun & then sticking them onto the desired surfaces.

However, when we had once done it at home, we were able to do it successfully with the help of a hair dryer as well.

On more details, I believe the sectoral experts can enlighten us.

Originally Posted by satish_appasani

I will look out for other alternatives. But please do suggest on the application part.

[scopriobharath]

Originally Posted by satish_appasani

I have a question on dampening. I am planning to dampen my Accent Viva. My installer says that it is sufficient to just completely cover the outer surface of the door. How important is it to dampen the inner surface? Is it ok if i apply the dampening on the inner panel just the areas visible through the gaps of the outer surface?

I am not having a sub woofer. But still i am planning to dampen the trunk lid because Accent's sheet metal is very light and vibrates like heel. Is it ok if i just dampen the trunk lid rather than dampening all the walls of the trunk?

My installer is quoting about Rs.7000 (2200/sheet) for dampening with Dynamat extreme. Is it fair price?

Originally Posted by blackfire_9

Hey mate,

Just out of curiosity, is there any specific reason towards considering the Dynamat?

Dynamat may be better for 'n' number of reasons, but certain other brands like Wurth also manufacture quality damping sheets that are surely worth a try. Do give them a look, especially they would work out cheaper when compared to Dynamat.

Drive safe.

Originally Posted by blackfire_9

The application part as far as I know, is done by first heating the sheets with a hot air gun & then sticking them onto the desired surfaces.

However, when we had once done it at home, we were able to do it successfully with the help of a hair dryer as well.

On more details, I believe the sectoral experts can enlighten us.

The Price for Dynamat seems okay. If he could come down my at least 500/- it should look pleasant. "dynamat" is a well established name but products like Scosche and Wurth are better and do the job much better.


I am not sure what is damping the "outer" surface of the door. Generally damping is done (for best effects) by removing the door cards / boot cards and installing the damping paper. It is somewhat similar to sun-film application. Once damping is done, the door cards are re-fit back to the car's respective places.

Are you referring to "vinyl" stickers that are stuck to the exterior of the car ? They are just cosmetic (for graphics / customizations) and do not have any effect on damping.

[satish_appasani]

Let me try to put this with more clarity.

Once you remove the door pads, you have two layers. The front layer which is facing you and holds the mechanism for central locking (read it as inner skin elsewhere) etc and another layer which you access through the holes in the first layer (called outer skin). Among these two which layer requires more damping?

[cranky]

@satish:

The principle of damping is to absorb vibration. The mounting frame of the speaker usually needs to be very rigidly mounted, and unfortunately this is not aways possible to to the thin sheet metal.

However sticking pieces of treated fabric on the same place is not going to help.

Therefore, you damp the area behind the driver cone. If the material is hard and reflective, you will get more of the sound reflected back through the cone, which is bad for sonics. If it is absorbtive, it will kill and disperse some of the rear wave.

The ideal combination is stuffing behind the driver (not possible in automotive environments AFAIK) and damping on the back wall.

[ajay_satpute]

This HU spec says that it has an in- built Amplifier. Does this really mean that if i put this HU, i dont need a separate amp?

[jits_1998]

Dear Gurus,

My final(?) speaker config:

1. Jbl Components front doors
2. Sony 190w co-axials rear door
3. Alpine 2 Ch amp (re-used)
4. Kenwood sub woofer(re-used) in a box

My questions:

1. Is sony coax going to be a let down? I am throwing away old pioneer ovals, most dealers tell me they are not going to be good enough.
2. Will Pioneer 1390 good enough to drive the above speakers?
3. Do I need an "expensive" mdf box for woofer?
4. Wiring: assembled or proper scosche kit ?

Spending more money isn't a problem, but I understand I am going to get a mid-level setup at best, so please advise accordingly.


Would like to close this tomorrow.


Thanks.

Originally Posted by jits_1998

Hi Guys,

My basic setup for my i10:

1. Pioneer 1390 (cd/aux)
2. Sony 190w co-axials in all 4-doors
3. 2 Pioneer ovals in the wooden tray
4. 1 kenwood sub woofer
5. 2 Ch Alpine amp

Cost items will be:

1. Tray+sockets+woofer box = 1250/-
2. Wiring kit = 1500/-

Total 2750/-

Do I need the speakers in rear door with ovals in the tray ?

Upgrade options depend on answer to above question :-).

Thanks.