[DerAlte]

Originally Posted by sparkguy

... 1) Is it wise enough to do this or my system won't sound like an upgraded one without sub ...

Don't worry, you will be able to make out difference in response.

Originally Posted by sparkguy

2) Without sub front and rear speakers both would be powered by amp and not by HU. Correct? After connecting sub rear would be on HU ...

For the time being, just connect the fronts to the amp. Since you are anyway going to get a sub, put in the sub speaker wire till the boot (leave 1m extra for safety; make sure free end is taped well). Let the rear speakers continue on HU. There will be no change (other than a bit of tuning) when you connect a sub.

Originally Posted by sparkguy

3) Is relay/fuse required to power amp? ...

Put an in-line fuse near the battery when the line is drawn for the amp power. Relay is not required.

Originally Posted by sparkguy

4) Anything else I need to consider. ...

Damping?

[sparkguy]

Originally Posted by DerAlte

Don't worry, you will be able to make out difference in response.
For the time being, just connect the fronts to the amp. Since you are anyway going to get a sub, put in the sub speaker wire till the boot (leave 1m extra for safety; make sure free end is taped well). Let the rear speakers continue on HU. There will be no change (other than a bit of tuning) when you connect a sub.
Put an in-line fuse near the battery when the line is drawn for the amp power. Relay is not required.
Damping?

Thanks for your reply
1) Would you suggest powering rear speakers from amp also If idea of sub is dropped by any chance due to space constraint?
2) Is damping required even if none of the speakers are fitted on door?

[DerAlte]

Originally Posted by sparkguy

... 1) Would you suggest powering rear speakers from amp also If idea of sub is dropped by any chance due to space constraint? ...

Yes, you should. But, space will not be a constraint if you find the right sub.

Originally Posted by sparkguy

... 2) Is damping required even if none of the speakers are fitted on door?

Damping is not only on doors. After they fit the amp, try out with a sub kept on the rear seat (and doors and windows closed) to check how many places buzz and rattle. At least damp those places.

[Sherlocked]

Hello guys, need some advice here.

Car: 2004 WagonR Lx
Head Unit: JVC KD x30
Front co-axials: 4" Sony - XS-GTF10382
Rear Co-axials: JVC CS V6937
No amp or sub is installed.

I had installed the above setup some 6-7 months ago. Since last few days. I have been hearing kharr kharr noise from the front left speaker side so I took it to the nearest car accessory shop and asked the guy to check.
He presumed speaker is defective, so he first tried with changing the front left speaker, the same disturbing noise continued to come.

Then he tried by connecting the speaker and head unit to a new wiring and the disturbance still continued.

He told me that the IC of head unit is defective and I should take it to the service center. I was not keen on taking it to the JVC service centre as I am told that they will take minimum of 15-20 days for repairing the same.

I asked him what can he do to fix the same. He then connected both the front speakers to the front right terminal of the head unit and now there is no disturbance. I asked him will this cause further damage to the IC of head unit and he suggested to continue using the same jugaad and nothing will go wrong.

I am not sure whether this remedy is correct or not so please Gurus help me on this.
The only con is that when I shift the balancing to complete left, there is no sound from the front speakers and when I shift the balancing to complete right, both the front speakers continue to sound. I have no problems with this since I always keep the balancing as zero i.e. in the centre.

The front Sony co-axials have the following specifications:
Speaker System- 3-Way Coaxial
Peak Power (W)- 210
Rated Input Power (W)- 30.

JVS website says that my Head unit (KD X30) has power of MOS-FET 50W x 4.

Gurus please help, should I continue using with the same wiring setup, will it cause any further damage?

Thanks.

[DerAlte]

Originally Posted by Sherlocked

... kharr kharr noise from the front left speaker ... I was not keen on taking it to the JVC service centre as I am told that they will take minimum of 15-20 days for repairing the same. ... should I continue using with the same wiring setup, will it cause any further damage? ...

This is rather strange. Why would you NOT get the HU repaired? They might NOT take 15-20 days - what is the harm in checking? They MAY give you something as standby till your unit is repaired, but you will not know anything till you approach them.

Going by 'something is better than nothing' that person has fed the right channel to both speakers - it is now playing mono. This will not damage anything, as long as you don't play full volume. But is that what you really want?

[Diamond_dawg]

Originally Posted by Sherlocked

I asked him what can he do to fix the same. He then connected both the front speakers to the front right terminal of the head unit and now there is no disturbance. I asked him will this cause further damage to the IC of head unit and he suggested to continue using the same jugaad and nothing will go wrong.

I believe the car stereo is compatible at 4 OHM when using the stereo amp. by connecting both the speakers to one terminal that's at 2 OHM (I don't know if that would damage the stereo further tho) but would surely heat it up faster

[ankitahuja]

How is the DB Link brand of amp wiring kit?

[DerAlte]

Originally Posted by Sherlocked

... He then connected both the front speakers to the front right terminal of the head unit and now there is no disturbance. I asked him will this cause further damage to the IC of head unit and he suggested to continue using the same jugaad and nothing will go wrong. ...

Originally Posted by Diamond_dawg

... by connecting both the speakers to one terminal that's at 2 OHM (I don't know if that would damage the stereo further tho) but would surely heat it up faster

Correct, that is why he should not play at a loud volume for a long time, as it might blow up the amp IC in the HU with overload. It is OK for short journeys at normal volume as there will be some cooling if AC is on. If the music sounds harsh, that would be a warning - reduce volume or switch the HU off.

The correct way is to get the HU repaired.

[Sherlocked]

Originally Posted by DerAlte

The correct way is to get the HU repaired.

Thanks sir. I wil get the HU repaired asap.

[guru.skr]

Originally Posted by scopriobharath

try JBL GT-X646. Its a 4 channel amp and it would power your front and rear speakers. First go in for an amp and test the sound, then go in for a Sub (if at all).

It would cost you 11,000 with installation. (9000 for amp + 2000 for wiring kit)

Hi Bharath,

Finally I added an Amp to my existing setup of

HU : JVC KW AVX 846
Compoents :JBL GTO 609C
Co-axials :JBL GTO 949

Amp : Hertz He 4 - 8000 k B/W
Wiring Kit : Caliber Audio CL-AK04 - 8 AWG power cable with RCA Patch cables and hardware.

Am not sure about Caliber audio kit's quality i paid 1500 for it.

[cityvic]

Audio Gurus.

I am recently seeing lot of Cerwin Vega, German Maestro and Diamond Audio on installs in a few shops in Calcutta these days.
I have never heard of most of these brands earlier.
But the shopkeepers say them to be very high end stuff.

Are they better or par with the legendary Rainbows, Gladens, Digital Designs and Image Dynamics?

[DerAlte]

Originally Posted by cityvic

... Cerwin Vega, German Maestro and Diamond Audio ... shopkeepers say them to be very high end stuff. ...

Cerwin Vega is a known old brand. Ditto Diamond - though not that old. German Maestro is a relatively new one set up by ex-MB Quart Germany guys. Good stuff, all of them, but saying 'high end' would be stretching it a lot. But then every brand (and their resellers even more so) calls them(selves) "high end".

What matters is how it sounds to YOUR ears, and not how or what X, Y or Z call it. For all you know, you might feel the high-end brand is just about as good as something that comes for a third of that cost. Marketing exploits the market with word-smithy akin to "Emperor's New Clothes"!

[Dry Ice]

Hello Gurus,

Seeking your advice as I am totally confused in my ICE search. Car in question is a Scorpio LX and as such it does not have any 'stock' location for the speakers. So I guess door pads will have to be mutilated.

I plan to install the ICE of my liking in stages. Now after spending some time in this section I have realized, ICE comprises of HU, front components(includes a tweeter and a crossover), rear co-axials, amplifier and a sub. In addition to all of these I will also be spending some moolah on wiring kit, amplifier kit, damping and installation cost (if any).

This brings me to my budget. In the first phase, I can part with 15-20k. A month or 2 later, I can add in another 15-20k.

As for the HU, I am looking for a simple 1 din solution with BT, iPod connectivity and USB. Can give CD a miss. Any suggestions for brands as am totally lost here! Shopkeepers have shown me everything from JVC, Pioneer, Kenwood, Sony, Alpine, Clarion etc.

How should I divide the install so that I don't feel it incomplete between the 2 phases?

[DerAlte]

Originally Posted by Dry Ice

... Car in question is a Scorpio LX and as such it does not have any 'stock' location for the speakers. So I guess door pads will have to be mutilated. ...

Are you referring to the first generation Scorpio?

ICE refers to, in the minimum, an HU and speakers in front. One can add amp, sub etc. later too. Some don't add anything if they are satisfied with the minimum.

1. HU: Look at the Kenwood India website and decide on a 1DIN HU model with the features you want. Street prices are usually 15% less than the mentioned MRP. A good 1DIN HU should cost 5-7K

2. Components: A decent pair from JBL / Infinity / Auditor / Bull / Morel etc. will cost you around 6K

3. Coaxials for rear of the same brand will cost you 2-3K

3. Amp: a 4channel Kenwood 845 will cost you around 6K. Ditto a JBL 646

4. Sub: A JBL, Infinity Reference or similar is usually 5K plus 700-1K for a box

5. Wiring, cables etc. shouldn't be more than 2-2.5K at this level. You can either go for a Scosche kit, or use a combination of good domestic wiring cables (for power) and good RCA cables (for connecting the HU to the amp)

[Dry Ice]

Originally Posted by DerAlte

Are you referring to the first generation Scorpio?

ICE refers to, in the minimum, an HU and speakers in front. One can add amp, sub etc. later too. Some don't add anything if they are satisfied with the minimum.

1. HU: Look at the Kenwood India website and decide on a 1DIN HU model with the features you want. Street prices are usually 15% less than the mentioned MRP. A good 1DIN HU should cost 5-7K

2. Components: A decent pair from JBL / Infinity / Auditor / Bull / Morel etc. will cost you around 6K

3. Coaxials for rear of the same brand will cost you 2-3K

3. Amp: a 4channel Kenwood 845 will cost you around 6K. Ditto a JBL 646

4. Sub: A JBL, Infinity Reference or similar is usually 5K plus 700-1K for a box

5. Wiring, cables etc. shouldn't be more than 2-2.5K at this level. You can either go for a Scosche kit, or use a combination of good domestic wiring cables (for power) and good RCA cables (for connecting the HU to the amp)

Thank you sir! Not the 1st gen, current gen.

Will try to find JBL, Infinity, Morel etc and hear them out. Most of the local shops here seem to be pushing Pioneer and Sony. Don't have any prior experience with components, so would like to listen what additional quality they offer above the regular coaxials.

With the break up you posted, it would come to around 30k plus damping.

I read one of your earlier posts where you had pointed that damping all doors for Safari would easily cross 10k. Guessing, Scorpio would be similar - the total expense would be around 40k. In that case, I might just go for ICE after 2-3 months and get everything done at the same time rather than spend 20k across 2 months.

BTW, for HU, only Kenwood?