[blackwasp]

Originally Posted by blackwasp

Will post video of the sound soon.

I completely forgot about this. Since I'm missing my 800, saw some old videos of the exhaust. Here they are.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=X1l7I4EGWMM

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=hi3qwcQrbfQ

[Aish_4761]

Originally Posted by Leoshashi

The engine looks in decent condition, and I'm sure she has been fed with Mineral oil all its life. You may consider switching to Synthetics. I'm on Shell Helix Ultra 5w40 and I am done with switching brands.

Thanks for the quick condition analysis Shashi. I indeed read you switching multiple brands from Liquimolly to Idemitsu to finally settle for shell. It was actually my choice for the next oil change. I am also planning to get the engine flushed however, post that, I might need to get the sump and stainer cleaned thoroughly which brings me to another dilemma whether to get the engine flushed or not since I do not want to get more parts opened without any particular reason as the engine works just fine and opening up the parts could mean oil leaks (past experiences).

What would be your take on this? Should I simply get the synthetic oil poured in or do I get the engine flushed?

[Leoshashi]

Originally Posted by Aish_4761

It was actually my choice for the next oil change. I am also planning to get the engine flushed however, post that, I might need to get the sump and stainer cleaned thoroughly which brings me to another dilemma whether to get the engine flushed or not since I do not want to get more parts opened without any particular reason as the engine works just fine and opening up the parts could mean oil leaks (past experiences).

What would be your take on this? Should I simply get the synthetic oil poured in or do I get the engine flushed?

Yes, you don't need to go for flushing or removing the oil pan and strainer. You barely have any sludge. Whatever minor deposits are there, SHU is capable of cleaning them all with time.

However you "may" face leaks, due to old seals. Most commonly found leak is from rear oil seal. Even I faced it when I switched to Synthetics after 16 years. Have mentioned all details in past.

Regards,
Shashi

[MunnabhaiMBBS]

Shashi, let me share something really funny and adventurous thing I did with our 800 when I was small.

I used to find 800’s steering very heavy therefore I added a few drops of Singer sewing machine oil into the ball joints and outer tie rods, and trust me the steering actually became very light

[sagarpadaki]

Originally Posted by Leoshashi

This is how I have passed the cables through the floor cap. A tiny hole was made, passed the cable through that wire protector so that the setup becomes water tight after rubber sealant is used.

Which rubber sealant did you use Shashi? I need to seal a hole made in the chassis to route the wires to the spare wheel area. I have made a 20mm hole. I need to ensure now that the hole is sealed water tight!

[Leoshashi]

Originally Posted by sagarpadaki

Which rubber sealant did you use Shashi? I need to seal a hole made in the chassis to route the wires to the spare wheel area. I have made a 20mm hole. I need to ensure now that the hole is sealed water tight!

20mm? That's a large hole.

I used windshield rubber sealant(black one) to seal the tiny hole I had made through that rubber grommet. I had to pass just one wire.

Regards,
Shashi

[Samarth parames]

Hello Sir,
I have been following your thread, even before I joined the forum. Leaves me speechless every time I see pictures of your car even. One thread which backs my " A car is a car, irrespective of how expensive or not". I care and like all my cars equally.

I hope this is the right place for my query.
We have a Maruti 800 AC std, 2003. Mostly used by my father, not cared much at all, multiple bruises and dents and what not on the body, but no rust thankfully.
Now the main issue, recently my father was driving it on the nice road, and all of a sudden the car loses power on acceleration and comes to a halt, had a crank similar to the one when the battery is weak.
1. The car was towed to a nearby reputed Maruti certified service centre, where they diagnosed to be a battery issue and the battery need to be replaced. Which definitely was not the case. As the car started fine after a while.
2. Now, another Maruti service centre said, the engine needs to be redone, this is backed by another service centre.
3. The car, upon starting in the morning, makes weird noises for 2 seconds. And the noise is similar on high RPMs, but normal driving feels butter smooth.
4. But once driven and turned off, won't crank again immediately. Turns on fine after 10-15 minutes.
We are based in Bangalore, and it feels so sad to the see our first car, the car I learnt driving on in this state.

Want your suggestions and your views on this matter,
1. Does it need an engine rebuild? (Estimated Rs. 40,000)
2. Could there be any other issue and is there an easier fix?
3. Any trusted garages who you think would honestly gauge the issue.

Will be awaiting all your replies.
Thank you very much, well in advance.

[sagarpadaki]

Originally Posted by Leoshashi

20mm? That's a large hole.

I used windshield rubber sealant(black one) to seal the tiny hole I had made through that rubber grommet. I had to pass just one wire.

Regards,
Shashi

Yes it is big since I need to pass 4 wires for sensors plus the power cable into the spare wheel well area where i will be placing the buzzer unit. I plan to make a hole in a grommet which fits the hole size and route the wires through the grommet and finally seal the grommet to the hole in the chassis with some waterproof sealant.

Is this rubber sealant available in small tubes in hardware shops?

[Leoshashi]

Originally Posted by Samarth parames

We have a Maruti 800 AC std, 2003. Mostly used by my father, not cared much at all, multiple bruises and dents and what not on the body, but no rust thankfully.
Now the main issue, recently my father was driving it on the nice road, and all of a sudden the car loses power on acceleration and comes to a halt, had a crank similar to the one when the battery is weak.
1. The car was towed to a nearby reputed Maruti certified service centre, where they diagnosed to be a battery issue and the battery need to be replaced. Which definitely was not the case. As the car started fine after a while.
2. Now, another Maruti service centre said, the engine needs to be redone, this is backed by another service centre.
3. The car, upon starting in the morning, makes weird noises for 2 seconds. And the noise is similar on high RPMs, but normal driving feels butter smooth.
4. But once driven and turned off, won't crank again immediately. Turns on fine after 10-15 minutes.
We are based in Bangalore, and it feels so sad to the see our first car, the car I learnt driving on in this state.

Want your suggestions and your views on this matter,
1. Does it need an engine rebuild? (Estimated Rs. 40,000)
2. Could there be any other issue and is there an easier fix?
3. Any trusted garages who you think would honestly gauge the issue.

Will be awaiting all your replies.
Thank you very much, well in advance.

Get these things checked for issues. You can do these as DIY too:

1. Clean IAC Valve and throttle body. Do let me know if you need any guidance/detailed posts. You will be done in 30 minutes.

2. Clean PCV Valve. Won't take more than 10 minutes.

3. Open distributor cap, check the cap terminals for wear and tear. Check and Clean rotor. Using a brush, clean all debris/dust inside the distributor(if any). Replace distributor cap gasket if there is too much dust inside.

Rest jobs will need help of an auto electrician:

1. Get Starter motor solenoid switch checked. Basically ask him to overhaul the starter motor. He will clean everything up and change the carbon brushes and springs. That's when he will check the solenoid.

2. Get Alternator checked. This you can do yourself too. Take a multimeter and see how much output Alternator is giving on different loads.

As per the symptoms you have told, engine OH doesn't come in picture. Do all these and there should be significant improvement.

Regards,
Shashi

PS: Regarding reliable workshop in Bangalore, this place comes to my mind: https://www.team-bhp.com/forum/long-...ml#post4546448. I'll request DBHPian Parag to guide you on the location in detail.

Originally Posted by sagarpadaki

Yes it is big since I need to pass 4 wires for sensors plus the power cable into the spare wheel well area where i will be placing the buzzer unit. I plan to make a hole in a grommet which fits the hole size and route the wires through the grommet and finally seal the grommet to the hole in the chassis with some waterproof sealant.

Is this rubber sealant available in small tubes in hardware shops?

Apologies for missing your post, you can get the job done with this product as well:



Regards,
Shashi

[paragsachania]

Originally Posted by Samarth parames

3. Any trusted garages who you think would honestly gauge the issue.

Originally Posted by Leoshashi

I'll request DBHPian Parag to guide you on the location in detail.

I would pretty much recommend the same FNG too Shashi. This is a case where you need someone to troubleshoot and fix and not just blindly replace. Hence Samarth can visit Swastika Auto Centers on Begur Road and contact Lokesh there.

[Leoshashi]

Update: I was deliberately keeping GG hibernated during rains, specially after XL6 came, since no matter how healthy she is, she is still a 20 year old car. It seems I was wrong.

When the weather finally became properly sunny, I took her out on a 100 km trip. Everything felt jammed: The brakes, steering- everything. There were mild squeaks coming from front suspension as well. While things improved after a few kilometers, the increasing temperature of front left wheel was a concern. Braking was largely normal except a very mild pull towards right. In no time, the Front left wheel crossed the threshold of 60 Degrees and TPMS was very prompt in warning me. Pressure also started increasing. When this happened, I was still 30 km away from my home. I deflated the tyre a bit since it's pressure had crossed 40 PSI. I started driving slowly since I didn't want to lose control if the tyre blew. It reached a maximum of 79 degrees. I shudder to think what would have happened if TPMS wasn't there. Since I couldn't feel anything wrong while driving.

Barely a kilometer from my home, a very pungent smell, like that of rubber burning started coming. This was accompanied by lots of brake dust on alloy, and that looked like burnt rubber to a fellow biker who was near me. He warned me. I checked the TPMS and temperature was 64 degrees. I reached home and by then the burning smell increased a lot. I immediately poured water on the rim and disc, while being fully aware that it can crack the metal. But my priority that time was to arrest any potential fire hazard.

Later during inspection, I saw that the left brake pad had almost burnt out. There was barely any material left. Took GG to MASS today, and asked my mechanic Arjun to check everything in detail.

-Left side caliper piston was seized due to rust. Also it seems brake fluid had moisture at some point of time. The brake fluid was completely flushed.

-Due to excess heat, left flexible hose was damaged. Replaced all 4.

-Replaced both rear brake cylinders

-Replaced the brake pads

-Disc was fine, again. Just for record, this is still the original disc!

-We checked all nearby rubber components and all were fine.

-We changed Caliper piston and all associated oil seals.

-Toyota Grease was fine, despite such torture. Still I asked them to replace all old grease and put fresh grease.

-Need one advice: Should I change this particular tyre, given that it has seen such high temperatures? Anything else to check?

Some Pics:


Reached the workshop early:





Condition of Left Caliper:



Right side was also overhauled:



Condition of RH Caliper's piston:



Ready to go back in:



Learnt a new thing- 5S 800 shares front hose pipe with Zen, may be due to Booster brakes?:



LH Flexible hose was in bad shape:



Part number of Rear flexible hose. Do note that this is different for Leaf and Coil spring models:



Rear brake was in decent shape, Rustoleum high temp paint was holding up well. Just needed some dusting:



Spotted another Old beauty getting repaired near GG:



A pic showing high temperature on TPMS. Normal pressure is due to me deflating it periodically.



Look how instantly water evaporated-The brakes were surely boiling:



Lesson Learnt: GG needs to be taken out regularly!

Regards,
Shashi

[saket77]

I’m sure you’ve taken care of the mechanical and the hydraulic aspects. Just a recommendation, swap this affected wheel with any rear tire. The huge amount of heat generated during this episode could have taken some toll on the rubber and the overall integrity of the tire. Though I’m not sure how much, but swapping with any rear tire wouldn’t cost anything and would give me that peace of mind.

Regards.

[R2D2]

Originally Posted by Leoshashi

Lesson Learnt: GG needs to be taken out regularly!

And the brake system MUST be flushed every 2-3 years without fail.

[Leoshashi]

Originally Posted by R2D2

And the brake system MUST be flushed every 2-3 years without fail.

Post 2013, it was always done on schedule-2 Years without fail. But before that, mechanics used to just top the fluid up. The fluid was brownish when it was flushed for the first time in 2013. Imagine. This fluid was barely a year old.

Also GG lived on supplies from Petrol pump largely, before I shifted to the existing MASS who always used Maruti Genuine Fluid 2013 onwards.

Regards,
Shashi

[AntPaul]

Originally Posted by Leoshashi

Update:
-Due to excess heat, left flexible hose was damaged. Replaced all 4.

Hi Shashi,

Little sad to see GG getting a jammed brake given how impeccably maintained the car is. If the brake fluid is flushed as per schedule, any idea what more can be done to prevent this, other than frequent usage?

Also curious why all 4 flexible hose got replaced. I am trying to understand if brake line is also wearing part (with age) since its a safety critical part. I do not find any mention in user manuals. Also, is there any noticeable improvement in braking after changing them? Newer ones should flex lesser than old ones under braking.

Thanks,
Antony