[cs_rajesh]

hello, Need advice on good tyres for elite i20 Asta that has R16 rims.

Stock tyre size : 195/55 R16
Question : Is upgrade to 195/60 R16 recommended?
Upgrade causes Difference in circumference: 61.26 mm or 3.14 % which is usually not recommended but not bad either, IMHO.
Have you done such an upgrade and can recommend based on your experience?

If "Yes" to the above question:
what tyre brand and variant would you recommend?
1. Michelin Primacy 3 ST-195/60R16-89H (indicative price : 7700 per tyre on amazon; 10300 per tyre on tyremarket.com pricey on tyremarket or is amazon seller selling old or broken stock?)
2. Michelin Primacy 4 ST-195/60R16-93V (indicative price : 10450 per tyre on tyremarket.com pricey on tyremarket)
3. Goodyear Assurance Triplemax 195/60 R16 (indicative price : 6900 per tyre on amazon; 7500 per tyre on tyremarket.com)
4. Continental UC6 195/60 R16 89V (indicative price : 8200 per tyre on amazon; 8800 per tyre on tyremarket.com)
5. Apollo Alnac 4G 195/60 R16 89H (indicative price: 6650 per tyre on amazon; 6466 per tyre on tyremarket.com)
6. Yokohama AE50 195/60 R16 89H (indicative price : 8200 per tyre on amazon)
7. Yokohama Tyre Earth-1 E400 195/60 R16 89H (indicative price : 7900 per tyre on tyremarket.com)
8. Vredestein ULTRAC 195/60 R16 89V (indicative price : 7145 per tyre on tyremarket.com; note it is lesser than 195/55 R16)
9. Bridgestone Turanza T001 (indicative price : 8850 per tyre on tyremarket.com)
10. Ceat SecuraDrive 195/60 R16 89V (indicative price 5750 per tyre on tyremarket.com)

If "No" to the above question and advice is to stick to stock size
what tyre brand and variant would you recommend?
1. Michelin Primacy 4 195/55R16-87V (indicative price: 9400 per tyre on amazon, 9950 per tyre on tyremarket.com ; note its pricey and Primacy 4 not available for 195/60 R16)
2. Goodyear Assurance TripleMax 195/55 R16 87V (indicative price : 6600 per tyre on amazon; 6200 per tyre on tyremarket.com)
3. Apollo Alnac 4G 195/55 R16 87V (indicative price :7310 per tyre on amazon; note that 195/60 R16 89H is cheaper)
4. Continental ContiUltraContact UC6 195/55 R16 87V (indicative price : 8000 per tyre on amazon; 8760 per tyre on tyremarket.com note UC not available for 195/60 R16)
5. Yokohama Tyre Earth-1 E400 195/55 R16 87V (indicative price : 7400 per tyre on amazon; 8000 per tyre on tyremarket.com)
6. Yokohama Tyre BluEarth-GT AE51 195/55 R16 87V (indicative price : 8280 per tyre on tyremarket.com)
7. Yokohama Tyre S-Drive AS01 195/55 R16 85V (indicative price : 8300 per tyre on tyremarket.com)
8. Continental Conti Max Contract 195/55 R16 87V (indicative price : 8420 per tyre on amazon; MC not available for 195/60 R16)
9. Vredestein ULTRAC 195/55 R16 87V (indicative price : 7750 per tyre on tyremarket.com)
10. Bridgestone B290 195/55 R16 (indicative price : 8500 per tyre on tyremarket.com)
11. Bridgestone B250 195/55 R16 87V (indicative price : 9050 per tyre on tyremarket.com)
12. Bridgestone Sturdo 195/55 R16 87H (indicative price : 9050 per tyre on tyremarket.com)
13. JK UX Touring 195/55 R16 (indicative price 5900 per tyre on tyremarket.com; lowest price)
14. Ceat SecuraDrive 195/55 R16 (indicative price 6400 per tyre on tyremarket.com)

thanks and regards

[MissionManali]

Hi Friends

Pardon my ignorance if this has been discussed already. Please refer attached picture.
Off late, I am seeing quite a few 2nd generation i20's with paint chipped below rear glass on boot door. Is this a known paint & quality issue or something I am missing? Just curious.

[The Mechanic]

Originally Posted by MissionManali

Pardon my ignorance if this has been discussed already.

This issue is rather widespread, kindly go through the following thread.


https://www.team-bhp.com/forum/techn...ffected-4.html (Paint peeling off on a 3-year old Hyundai i20 Active. EDIT: Many more Hyundais affected)

[NA-driver]

Hi everyone,

My petrol i20 is due for its 7th year/70k KMS service, the car is still running on its original coolant that came from the factory.
The owner's manual says to replace the coolant at 210k KMS or 120 months, should I get it changed at the coming service or keep using it and get it changed as the manual recommends?

[toiingg]

Originally Posted by NA-driver

... original coolant that came from the factory.
... should I get it changed at the coming service or keep using it and get it changed as the manual recommends?

Get it changed and the radiator flushed. It barely costs 4-500 bucks, and the peace of mind it brings is totally worth it.

I got it changed at my 5 year interval irrespective of the user manual.

[Cresterk]

Sorry to bump an old thread but I had given my i20 crdi for wheel alignment to an FNG and requested them to also reset the steering angle sensor to ensure the EPS doesn't keep trying to "center" the steering wheel to a slightly wrong angle.


Sadly, while driving back home, turning the car off and then back on lead to the EPS warning light turning on:



Power steering still works but it has become weird. It works now even in ignition on mode with the engine off. Also, it has become slightly harder when not moving but extremely light in low speed and back to being hard during high speeds. All in all, I'm taking the car back when I can but I am interested to see if anyone has faced anything similar. Both hyundai dealerships near my locality has closed since covid and the nearest dealership is 2 hours away hence why I gave it to a 3rd party garage.

[Cresterk]

Update on this because I couldn't sleep: I have been researching the problem online and found this trouble shooting guide for hyundai EPS.



Initial hypothesis: My ASP has not been calibrated the proper way. Will take it to the garage tomorrow and see if they will let me use their tool myself.

[Cresterk]

Update: Went back to the garage. After letting the tech screw around for a bit with the OBD2 scanner, I asked if I could try it myself.
Make sure the engine is off and the ignition is on (2 presses on the start button without pressing the clutch)

Under EPS settings in the ECU, you get a few options.
Now this is what you need to do:

1. Select special operation

2. Select EPS type recognition. This shows you the preset tunings available for the electric power steering. In the Indian spec i20, there seems to be only 2: DSL and GSL which probably stand for diesel and gasoline (petrol). I chose DSL.

In international models or in higher spec hyundai cars such as the Sonata and Santa Fe, there could also be hard, soft, GSL, sport etc which will all change the feel of the electric power steering. If someone has the patience and knowledge, they could probably write an entire new map for the Indian spec too with emphasis on steering feel and feedback.


3. Once you perform the update, turn the car off for 20 seconds and then turn it back on again. Only then hit OK on the ECU scan tool which will verify that the update was done correctly. This was the step that the garage tech screwed up which lead to my car displaying the EPS warning light.


4. Go to ASP calibration. ASP stands for absolute steering position and this value being slightly off is what leads to the car not going straight after a wheel alignment. The ECU reads this value and will try to electronically "straighten" the steering wheel towards dead center whenever you finish turning. Now with all the new cars coming with ADAS, I assume a lot of people are going to be having this problem if they get their wheel alignments done outside.

5. The software will ask you to place the steering wheel as straight as possible and then click okay. I kept it just a tiny tiny degree more to the right to counteract the left pull.

6. Repeat step 3.


And that's it. The EPS warning light was now off and I tried turning the engine on and off a a few times to make sure everything was alright. Took it on the highway to test whether it was going straight and it was! Let go of the steering wheel and it was still going perfectly straight. Finally the steering was back to just how it was when I bought the car and I didn't have to go to a hyundai dealership and pay an outrageous 1500 rs for their poorly calibrated alignment just to have the ASP angle reset.

[Vitruvius]

Thanks for this post. This is really useful information.

[Razor44]

My i20 Petrol Asta(o) 2020 model has done about 45k kms and the clutch has become a little hard.Not that its not working or the gears are not engaging. My wife drives it daily to work and she is having a little bit of difficulty with it. Went to dealer service center , the service adviser after pressing the clutch a few times narrated a list of components from clutch plate to master cylinder and quoted a whopping Rs 22500/- for replacing the entire thing.

I refused obviously and brought back my car . Not only the price quoted but it seemed very unreasonable that all the components need replacement.
But I am worried about my wife getting stranded suddenly on the highway. I have changed clutch in my M800 , Celerio and Swift before and changing the clutch plate and pressure plate seemed t solve the clutch problems and those two along with labour should not cost more than 10-11k. Please advise.

[NA-driver]

Hi Razer,

Elite i20 uses a hydraulic-based clutch system, looks like the slave cylinder needs to be bled and it's hardly a 5 mins job.

I also have a petrol i20 asta (o) 2016 model, at 60k KMS service I got the clutch bleeding done and it made a noticeable difference in hardness and by doing it I managed to drive a further 7500 KMS on the stock clutch.

I'm attaching a link to a Youtube video of a Hyundai-authorised mechanic explaining the process.

https://m.youtube.com/watch?v=RFzqvk...kyMCBjbHV0Y2gg

[Cresterk]

AC performance of my diesel Asta o had been going down for a while. Faced 2 issues one after the other:

1. I have had everything from dripping water on the passenger side footwell, to something freezing up inside and air flow reducing considerably when AC has been on for long. Turning off the AC compressor for 30 seconds lead to whatever was frozen melting and air flow going back to normal again.

Got this fixed by:
Cleaning the drain pipe which was clogged with debris (caused water leakage)
Replacing the cabin filter and getting the condenser cleaned.

2. AC now taking quite a while to blow cool air even after being set on LOW. I initially blamed the heatwave and 40C weather. Then realised the passenger side was blowing colder air than the driver's side which was blowing warm air. Odd since the car does not have 2 zone climate control. It was time for another visit to the garage.

Fix:
Turned out the AC coolant level was low. Did a pressure test to make sure there was no leakage and then filled it back up.

Results:


AC is now cold as ice even on the hottest days at noon. You could get in after it's been parked in the Sun for hours, find the interiors to be boiling and the steering too hot to touch and just start the car and in 2-3 seconds the AC starts blowing cold air. The climate control works beautifully now, with me setting the temps to 25C and still feeling comfortably chilly at the lowest fan speed. Auto mode also works great now, with it reducing fan speed to silent in just a few mins


I forgot how good the AC of this car was. It feels even better than our new Innova Hycross where auto mode remains uncomfortably loud for 10 mins even with both zones being set to 25C.

[sunildn]

Hi All,

I have a 2016 Elite i20 Asta (O) and since yesterday, smart key is not working/detecting. Meance, I am unable to open the door using smart button, once I get into the car and try to start, it says Key not available. I have tried with both the keys, battery replaced but no luck. Any suggestions or Do i need to visit ASC only?

[Guna]

Originally Posted by sunildn

I have tried with both the keys, battery replaced but no luck. Any suggestions or Do i need to visit ASC only?

Is you car battery old (> 4 years)? Just a distant possibility.

[sunildn]

Originally Posted by Guna

Is you car battery old (> 4 years)? Just a distant possibility.

No Guna. I got the battery replaced 2yrs. back only and it's in very good condition.