[adg_andy]

Originally Posted by octane1002

7 AWDs you say? Renault Kolkata should sponsor you guys for a trip to the North East for some PR (they desperately need some, especially in Eastern India).

There are around 4-5 more AWDs in extended families in New Delhi , Hyderabad and Bangalore We are a crazy bunch.

@samba fantastic pics. Your rolling shot idea was superhit!!

[Vampirevipin]

Originally Posted by Sheel

I do drive a 110 PS [very first lot] Duster regularly and post an after market condenser change, the AC is a chiller, the same gent's Creta SX(O) isn't a patch on Duster's cooling ability.

Hi Sheel,

I drive a 110PS first gen Duster, the AC performance is poor. I have a couple of questions regarding the AC.

a) Can you tell me which brand condenser did you install? I shall install the same.
b) Air throw is weak, anything to be done to improve this?
c) At idle condition, the compressor cuts off frequently, which makes the ac ineffective. What could be the reason?

It'll be great if I could fix these issues.

Regards,
Vipin

[Altocumulus]

Originally Posted by octane1002

Fantastic shots, great camaraderie.I have to check out the Duster AWD once I'm in town.

7 AWDs you say? Renault Kolkata should sponsor you guys for a trip to the North East for some PR (they desperately need some, especially in Eastern India).

Actually it's 18 AWDs in the group. Only 2 registered outside and 2 more though WB, is located in Delhi. Rest 14 AWDs of the group are in Kolkata itself. There are 2 85ps o give company as well.

[Sheel]

Originally Posted by Vampirevipin

a) Can you tell me which brand condenser did you install? I shall install the same.
b) Air throw is weak, anything to be done to improve this?
c) At idle condition, the compressor cuts off frequently, which makes the ac ineffective. What could be the reason?

Hi Vipin!

I did not install the condenser. It was a friend's ride [yes, that Duster is sold now] and the after market condenser was installed at a local AC mechanic's place. They exclusively deal in car's AC.

I am sorry, but I can't help much with the brand name as such, they get it from Delhi is all I know.

As far as your second query goes, could you try getting your cooling coil cleaned?

I believe, you can reach a satisfactory solution post visiting a reputed and reliable workshop who deal in car's AC.

Here is a list, please check reviews and see if any of them can do something for your Duster.

Hope, your issue gets resolved .

[human_wheels]

Thinking of trading my December 2014 RXZ AWD in Bengaluru with 65k on the odometer for a new car. How much can I expect for it approximately. Mods, please move it to an appropriate thread if necessary.

[nettooran]

Originally Posted by Tgo

A really worst case scenario would be that your car requires:

-Bad rear differential - Replacement only 1,27,000/-

Except for the turbo, differential, rear shocks and injectors all parts can be bought from outside and installed by them too.

Can you tell me what the symptoms are? I guess I have the same issue now. I reached out to two separate service centers and they have not been able to identify the issue. The issue is only when the 4WD is engaged. There is no issue in a straight line. , but when I take a turn ( not mild turns , but almost at full turn), it feels as if the wheels are skipping.

Its like I am trying to take the turn with the rear differentials locked and the wheels are fighting back.

Anyone has any idea on this issue?

[Tgo]

Originally Posted by nettooran

There is no issue in a straight line. , but when I take a turn ( not mild turns , but almost at full turn), it feels as if the wheels are skipping.

Hope its not just a axle bind. After the diff replacement, I experienced it one time wen I was in AWD - Auto and did an aggressive start with a sharp right turn on a traffic light.

Try this first:

On a loose surface (sand/gravel/mud/slush) do a full lock to the right go 5-10 mtr forward, full lock to left go 5-10 mtr in reverse. Repeat with full lock left move forward and full lock right and reverse. I haven't thought much about the science behind this but it works.

Secondly, buy the anytime warranty if your car is within 1,00,000 km and 7 years of ownership.

The symptoms you are telling is what happened with at the ASC when the vehicle was on trial in their hands. I never faced it though. What I faced was, a jerk (hesitation to move) after clutch engagement when moving from standstill or crawling speeds. It used to be accompanied with mild shuddering / juddering of the prop shaft. I was suspecting it to be the clutch. But I am still on the original clutch at 1,13,000 km.

Have you ever got you vehicle towed with the rear / front wheels on the ground?

[nettooran]

Originally Posted by Tgo

Hope its not just a axle bind. After the diff replacement, I experienced it one time wen I was in AWD - Auto and did an aggressive start with a sharp right turn on a traffic light.

Try this first:

On a loose surface (sand/gravel/mud/slush) do a full lock to the right go 5-10 mtr forward, full lock to left go 5-10 mtr in reverse. Repeat with full lock left move forward and full lock right and reverse. I haven't thought much about the science behind this but it works.

Secondly, buy the anytime warranty if your car is within 1,00,000 km and 7 years of ownership.

The symptoms you are telling is what happened with at the ASC when the vehicle was on trial in their hands. I never faced it though. What I faced was, a jerk (hesitation to move) after clutch engagement when moving from standstill or crawling speeds. It used to be accompanied with mild shuddering / juddering of the prop shaft. I was suspecting it to be the clutch. But I am still on the original clutch at 1,13,000 km.

Have you ever got you vehicle towed with the rear / front wheels on the ground?

I have tried these steps. did a thorough check on the internet and this is what I came up up. The spider gears are the culprits. The symptoms seems to exactly match. However all those explanations are for thoroughbred 4WD vehicles. I hope I can related it here. Its a gear that helps the wheels to rotate at various speeds while taking a turn. I believe duster AWD differential must also be having those.

This is what the internet told me :

"Noise: Banging, crunching, or popping while making a turn. Noise not affected by temperature
Cause: Badly worn or broken spider gears"

I am not sure if I can confirm it with the ASC. I know their solution would be to replace the differential assembly, which I have no intention to.

regarding the extended warranty, I crossed the extended warranty period of 80k / 4 yrs. I am now at 82 K ( ya I know.. shit happens as soon as you cross the warranty line ). The Renault app tells me I am not eligible for an extended warranty. Do they give it after the standard warranty period is over?

[Tgo]

Originally Posted by nettooran

regarding the extended warranty, I crossed the extended warranty period of 80k / 4 yrs. I am now at 82 K ( ya I know.. shit happens as soon as you cross the warranty line ). The Renault app tells me I am not eligible for an extended warranty. Do they give it after the standard warranty period is over?

Anytime warranty can be bought. It will be a bit pricey 26K approx. App is useless. Check out this link.

[KMan]

Hi folks.

Hope everyone is doing well.

Took my car out last week for an extended while after lockdown, where it was only being driven only a KM or so every now and then.

While accelerating hard over 2500-3000 rpm, the car suddenly lurched and the warning lights came on. The engine note changed, it sounded coarser. ESC/TC got activated and the drive was jerky and not smooth. Since I was close to home, managed to drive back. Turned the car off, and after a few minutes, turned it back on and the lights had disappeared and it was driving fine.

Then started it after a few days and the lights were back on. This is happening intermittently. Seems to be some sort of an electrical issue.

Would appreciate if anyone can shed light on the subject. It's hard to go to the service center in these times. Plus the closest one to home is an hour away. And the place is a rip off. Every small issue burns a hole in the pocket.

Also, this has happened once before too. Car has done approx 80k KM and is almost 6 years old.

Hoping for some advice.

[Tgo]

Originally Posted by KMan

Also, this has happened once before too. Car has done approx 80k KM and is almost 6 years old.

Please get your battery checked. Usually the battery going bad and not providing sufficient charge is accompanied by restarting of medianav system, beeps and washout of the instrument cluster while cranking. My battery was so dead that the power steering was failing at idling rpm. My battery was 1.5 year old and it died during the lockdown.

AWD and AMT cars consume batteries in approximately 3-4 years specially since the battery is a lower capacity 50DIN model compared to the 60DIN model on older cars.

[KMan]

Originally Posted by Tgo

Please get your battery checked. Usually the battery going bad and not providing sufficient charge is accompanied by restarting of medianav system, beeps and washout of the instrument cluster while cranking. My battery was so dead that the power steering was failing at idling rpm. My battery was 1.5 year old and it died during the lockdown.

AWD and AMT cars consume batteries in approximately 3-4 years specially since the battery is a lower capacity 50DIN model compared to the 60DIN model on older cars.

The battery has been changed recently. Maybe about a year or so ago. Plus when the guy came to change the battery in my other car a couple of weeks back, asked him to check this one too. Said it was fine. Will once again try to get it checked out. Until then, I'm open to suggestions.

[Samba]

Originally Posted by KMan

While accelerating hard over 2500-3000 rpm, the car suddenly lurched and the warning lights came on. The engine note changed, it sounded coarser. ESC/TC got activated and the drive was jerky and not smooth. Since I was close to home, managed to drive back.

Seems like an injector failure to me!
The same lights were on, when the the injectors gave up in my Duster. Plus the symptoms were same too. Engine sounded coarse and it was jerky.

Sharing the pic-

[KMan]

Originally Posted by Samba

Seems like an injector failure to me!
The same lights were on, when the the injectors gave up in my Duster. Plus the symptoms were same too. Engine sounded coarse and it was jerky.

Sharing the pic-
Attachment 2044810

Damn. What are the damages if it has to be replaced? Any idea? Also, I'm assuming it's covered under warranty?

In case this is the issue, why would the lights come on and off intermittently? They should just stay on, ideally.

[Samba]

Originally Posted by KMan

Damn. What are the damages if it has to be replaced? Any idea? Also, I'm assuming it's covered under warranty?

In case this is the issue, why would the lights come on and off intermittently? They should just stay on, ideally.

Its covered under warranty.
Each injector costs approximately Rs 29,000.

Yes the lights go off and the car starts to behave normally, but again after a day or few km it reverts back. I faced the same.

My experience is jotted down here.
https://www.team-bhp.com/forum/test-...ml#post4677894 (Renault Duster AWD : An owner's point of view)

Please go through this thread too.
https://www.team-bhp.com/forum/techn...tor-issue.html (Renault Duster 110 PS - Fuel Injector Issue)