[sjcherian]

Originally Posted by Aficionados

Thanks Guys! I shall wait then for discounts to pour-in to take a decision.

BTW, during TD i found that the normal mode is very lethargic while the sports mode was quite peppy below 70-80 speed. I wonder if the normal mode is used by owners frequently. How much FE can i expect with sports mode all the time?

I started ownership using only Auto mode, then only Sports mode and only Manual mode. Now I use a mix of Auto and Sports mode with Manual only for any steep ramps starting from stop. In slow moving traffic I feel Auto mode is more than enough.

Mileage has stayed at an overall average of 13.2 Kmpl over 15 fuel fills (lot of other factors like non moving traffic etc. has its impact). The highest I got was 14.1 Kmpl for the regular auto mode with very gentle driving. As long as traffic is moving and you are not revving too harsh it should be almost the same for Auto and Sport with a max difference of around 0.5 - 1 Kmpl.

My fuel ups are logged on Fuelly.

[Manoj]

Originally Posted by sjcherian

I started ownership using only Auto mode, then only Sports mode and only Manual mode. Now I use a mix of Auto and Sports mode with Manual only for any steep ramps starting from stop. In slow moving traffic I feel Auto mode is more than enough.

One more info, i would like to know about your experience about the breaks as well in XTA, with continuous breaking are you experiencing any break fade or any such issue, i am also looking for an XTA, and the breaking issue on the automatic is really pulling me back, hence checking on this, can you please let me know,

Regards
Manoj

[sjcherian]

Originally Posted by Manoj

One more info, i would like to know about your experience about the breaks as well in XTA, with continuous breaking are you experiencing any break fade or any such issue, i am also looking for an XTA, and the breaking issue on the automatic is really pulling me back, hence checking on this, can you please let me know,

Regards
Manoj

As long as you are not tailing anyone without leaving a sufficient gap it is manageable. There is some fade on repeated stops in stop and go traffic but really the problem is when you use the accelerator and immediately have to brake then the brake pedal feels a bit wooden. It will still stop but is a bit unnerving. You get used to the brakes and drive accordingly.

[DriveOnceMore]

Originally Posted by sjcherian

As long as you are not tailing anyone without leaving a sufficient gap it is manageable. There is some fade on repeated stops in stop and go traffic but really the problem is when you use the accelerator and immediately have to brake then the brake pedal feels a bit wooden. It will still stop but is a bit unnerving. You get used to the brakes and drive accordingly.

I own Nano CNG (pre GenX) and too face the same issue of wooden brakes.
I've been to A.S.S. Concorde Motors Pune. They tried their best, cleaned brakes and inspected for wear but could not rectify the fault.
My observation is that you'll face the issue when the AC is turned ON and you're not pressing accelerator.
Please observe in your case and share your feedback

[GrammarNazi]

Originally Posted by DriveOnceMore

I own Nano CNG (pre GenX) and too face the same issue of wooden brakes...

Having owned a Nano since 6+ years, I've learnt that this brake issue is because of the vacuum servo being very small.

Apparently one can increase the capacity of the servo by adding a small 500cc cylinder connected to the current servo, but these Tata service centers probably won't be able to do this mod. (Also obviously, it'll void your warranties.)

Once the case moves abit, the vacuum is built up again. All I can say is that if you keep this in mind while braking, you won't get that momentary shock. Over time, you'll probably very easily get used to it.

[silverado]

Originally Posted by scorpion_blore

.
My friend says the car gets heated up after driving for around 200 kms. So he is forced to take a break for the engine to cool down.[/list]

How does he know car is getting heated? Does he see anything flashing as a warning in center console? or he is physically touching rear end of Nano and assuming it is overheating!

I have done multiple Mum-Pune trips non stop at good speeds.
Have used my Nano extensively on Highways without any issues.

Even Non stop running in bumper to bumper traffic ( With AC on ) for around 3 hours did not pose any issues.

Originally Posted by DriveOnceMore

I own Nano CNG (pre GenX) and too face the same issue of wooden brakes.

I have never experienced this, Do you mean Pedal does not go in at all when you brake, or there is lack of bite?

[DriveOnceMore]

Originally Posted by silverado

I have never experienced this, Do you mean Pedal does not go in at all when you brake, or there is lack of bite?

The brake pedal becomes hard to push. In an attempt or two it gets restored.
The best case to observe this issue is to take your Nano on a decline, engage lower gear such that car runs on engine braking and without any accelerator input. Then check your brake pedal.

[ObsessedByFIAT]

I own a Nano AMT GenX and have driven it around 2.4K till now.

The average that I get is around 16-17 kmpl. This car is used by me on a few occasions, while my father uses it regularly to run errands. Needless to say, he is not bothered about the average. Yet, in bumper to bumper traffic of Hinjawadi and city driving easily fetches me the above mentioned average. The key is to be gentle on the A-pedal. Anticipate stops / slower moving traffic.

About the breaks - Yes, I do get the 'wooden' feeling. The way I overcome it is, if I have to break, I ensure that I do not let it go until there is atleast a car length gap. However, in extreme traffic conditions, the wooden feeling cannot be done away with. Since there is traffic all around, you wont need anymore breaking power than what Nano offers.

The issue I face though is - in bumper to bumper traffic, in 'A' mode, the car just leaps ahead with a jerk and that becomes un-nerving for me at times. For this, I usually prefer to keep the car in Manual mode. It is comparatively smoother to drive.

Hoe this helps!

[silverado]

Originally Posted by DriveOnceMore

The brake pedal becomes hard to push. In an attempt or two it gets restored.
The best case to observe this issue is to take your Nano on a decline, engage lower gear such that car runs on engine braking and without any accelerator input. Then check your brake pedal.

I get that wooden feeling only when car is switched off.
If you get that on and off, I believe you should get it checked, try driving another Nano to check/verify.

I have never had braking issues in my entire ownership which is more than 5 years now.
Also now I have my Baleno to compare braking abilities and I would say it is decent for a car having Drum brakes, with the only issue being they lock easily on hard braking.

One of my colleague owns an twist and he also has never complained of this.
I am not sure if this is specific to Nano AMT.

[Sawyer]

Every car will get this dead pedal feeling when the engine is off; normal behaviour.

I too haven't faced this issue with my manual shift Nano, used in all types of situations. I have no experience of the AMT, but I can't see a logical reason why there should be a difference.

[DriveOnceMore]

Originally Posted by silverado

I get that wooden feeling only when car is switched off.
If you get that on and off, I believe you should get it checked, try driving another Nano to check/verify.

I have never had braking issues in my entire ownership which is more than 5 years now.
Also now I have my Baleno to compare braking abilities and I would say it is decent for a car having Drum brakes, with the only issue being they lock easily on hard braking.

One of my colleague owns an twist and he also has never complained of this.
I am not sure if this is specific to Nano AMT.

I am facing this issue with Manual Nano.
I've visited Concorde Motors, Pune twice and they thoroughly did the inspection but could not get rid of the issue.

[alphahere]

I have the same experience as all who say sometimes in specific situations the brakes feel wooden. As a nano user for the last 2 years which included 1 year with a twist and the next year with an AMT, I can vouch for the fact that both these models suffer from the wooden brake issue.

In manual we can do this by making the car creep by releasing the clutch slowly and applying the brakes intermittently and quickly in a cycle. After 4 or 5 cycles like this the vacuum will get depleted. Many people drive like this in peak traffic conditions including me where it becomes really apparent. This issue is really dependant on the way someone drives and not every driving style will highlight this problem. AMT comes built in with creep functionality which works essentially in the same way as above, hence it is more noticeable in AMT whatever your driving style is. But for me it was the same experience for manual and AMT.

My thoughts on why this happens is because on any petrol engine (non turbo) the vacuum will start getting re-built only when the engine has zero load on it. And it does take 3 or 4 seconds to build up completely on nano because of the long hose from the engine at the back to the booster in front. Since the problem manifests only at peak hour traffic when speeds are really low, this is just a matter of getting used to the behaviour of the brakes. This will never happen when the car is moving freely and full boost is always available that time.

PS: Try accelerating the car on an empty stretch and pump the brakes lightly with the left foot to drain the vacuum. Boost will not come back as long as you keep a load on the engine by accelerating. As soon as the engine reaches steady speed or foot is taken off accelerator, the vacuum is replenished.

[wilful]

Originally Posted by alphahere

In manual we can do this by making the car creep by releasing the clutch slowly and applying the brakes intermittently and quickly in a cycle. After 4 or 5 cycles like this the vacuum will get depleted. Many people drive like this in peak traffic conditions including me where it becomes really apparent. This issue is really dependant on the way someone drives and not every driving style will highlight this problem. AMT comes built in with creep functionality which works essentially in the same way as above, hence it is more noticeable in AMT whatever your driving style is. But for me it was the same experience for manual and AMT.

My thoughts on why this happens is because on any petrol engine (non turbo) the vacuum will start getting re-built only when the engine has zero load on it. And it does take 3 or 4 seconds to build up completely on nano because of the long hose from the engine at the back to the booster in front. Since the problem manifests only at peak hour traffic when speeds are really low, this is just a matter of getting used to the behaviour of the brakes. This will never happen when the car is moving freely and full boost is always available that time.
.

Not very good news for potential Nano buyers. The AMT (Nano) is essentially seen by many as a pure city car and obviously to be punted around mostly in heavy traffic. This wooden brake syndrome could make it a bit unnerving for the common user.
I wonder if TM are aware of this shortcoming and working out a solution?

[freakmuzik]

After 16 months and 17,000 kms, I just thought of updating you all how my car is holding up! It's been a long time since I posted something about my nano here. The car is doing great in fact. It is such a treat to drive in the city with the light steering, tall seating and all the general positives of the Nano.

Pros:

1) Light steering
2) Tight 4m Turning Radius
3) Effective air con
4) Fuel Efficient
5) Cabin Space four 4
6) Much improved overall quality

Cons:

1) A couple of small rattles
2) NVH - though hugely improved, Nano is still a Nano
3) Glovebox mechanism
4) Lack of enough power in inclines with full load
5) General NVH characteristics of a 2 cylinder engine

Issues:

Central locking mechanism of the Left front and rear doors do not work at times. I have not yet taken the car to the service center as I was thinking of rectifying it along with the 20k service which should be happening soon.

Improvements from the 2010 iteration

1) Openable boot
2) Large fuel tank - the biggest improvement if you ask me
3) Build quality - way better
4) NVH - much improved
5) Ride quality - i do not know how they have achieved this but the ride quality is not an issue anymore. It feels good within the city even with the 12 inch wheels
6) Body Roll - addition of anti - roll bar has changed the cars behaviour totally!

Overall Summary:

Kilometers Covered: 17,000
Service Cost: 0 (AMC coverage for 3 years/ 30,000 km)
Issues: 1 ( central locking - as mentioned earlier)
In City FE: B2B city - 16 kmpl (100% AC)
College Route - 18 - 19 kmpl (4 adults & 75% AC)
17 - 18 kmpl (4 adults & 100% AC)

My college route (one way) includes 11 kilometers of proper City roads with moderate to heavy traffic and another 9 kilometers of slightly hilly, rural roads with low to moderate traffic. So I regularly commute 40 kilometers on weekdays.

I had installed seat covers for my car a few months back from Car Shoppy, Pongumoodu. I wasn't really satisfied with their work compared to how they had installed seat covers in our Eon an year before. Other than that, I haven't added any other accessories to my Nano. Speaking about the glove box, the opening mechanism is a design disaster. It will open only if you press beneath the horizontal line and even the SA at T.A.S.S do not know how to open it. They kept banging on the glovebox lid to open and close it and each time I had to help them out with it. And the rattles I observed are also from areas around the glovebox and front speaker compartment. I did expect rattles from there as the design itself isn't a fully integrated one like other cars with these things designed as add-ons. To conclude, I will still recommend this as an absolutely ideal city car for the conveniences it offers.

Cheers!

[alphahere]

Originally Posted by freakmuzik

After 16 months and 17,000 kms, I just thought of updating you all how my car is holding up!

Noticed that you have replaced the stock head unit. Good decision IMO. Is the aftermarket unit a direct fit or does it require spacer or adapter? Is it possible to install it just like the stock system, that is, horizontally instead of the facing up position?