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Originally Posted by DheerajNK There is a noise coming into the cabin which starts when the car crosses around 1.5k RPM and it continues beyond that point. So if you are driving on a highway with the music system off, every time you press the accelerator pedal you will hear the "grrr" noise which is very annoying. In the city you hear it every time you revv the engine to shift gears. It's not loud but it is very prominent for anyone who has basic knowledge of cars and loves driving. |
Sad to hear about your experience with Mahindra Service. My Z4 AT also has a faint whirring noise while accelerating. I reported the issue to the service centre, but they said that the noise was normal intake noise and nothing to worry about. I have not worried about it since as it is not that annoying on my vehicle.
What does bother me are the creaking sounds heard whenever I switch from Park to Drive or from Reverse to Drive and vice versa. Basically, if I'm reversing the car there's a loud creaking noise from under the body. The ASC says that it is the sound of the automatic brake engaging from the hill hold system. He says that they will need to look into the matter in detail to completely resolve it, but also said that it is not a concern, as in it doesn't affect the functionality. They promised to attend to it whenever I next gave the vehicle for service, or if I give them enough time. I have asked them to order the fog lamp/DRL kit and the rear boot tray that comes in the 2023 models, and I plan to have them take a look at it then.
Another issue I have seen is that occasionally the drive mode gets confused if you try to change drive modes while the start stop system is active and the car is switched off. I've had to restart the vehicle to reset it and the MID shows the drive mode again. when you try to switch to ZOOM mode while stopped at traffic, the power actually drops and the car gets bogged down with a loss of power, before suddenly starting to pull with a jerk. This happened twice and since then I have stopped paying with the drive modes while the engine start-stop system is active. I haven't tried to recreate the issue, nor have I reported it. The driver side rear parking sensor has been acting up ever since I had a small brush with an auto rickshaw, and beeps randomly when I reverse the car.
Other than that the vehicle has had almost no issues. The FE is single digit mostly, as expected in the crawling city traffic, but given a small chance to stretch its legs in a highway or even a late night drive in the city, the FE will climb past 12-14 regularly. I had once instance of the DPF clogging and requiring a regen at about 3.5K. Android Auto and Apple Carplay work well without issues or disconnects (once I switched to a good cable).
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Originally Posted by Nightmare I simply heard what he said but did not totally agree. My understanding was that Zip mode might be ideal in high traffic. One would lose some power although. I have been driving in Zap mode for the past 1.5 months (that's when I got my car)
Has anyone driven considerably in Zip mode? Would want to know if the statement of the demo guy hold any weight or not about Zip mode being costly. |
When I got my Z4 AT, initially I drove around in ZIP mode in the city as I felt that the power was a bit too much and I needed to get used to it. I too followed your logic that the supposedly city optimised ZIP mode would get better FE. However, the only good thing about the ZIP mode is the really light steering that is a breeze in the city. But the lack of response actually makes it harder to close in gaps and you get a lot of honking behind you when the lights turn green at signals.
I was getting lower FE in ZIP mode as well. I think that the ZIP mode is useful if you're getting used to the size of the car and want to restrain the engine a bit till you get used to it, and also if you want a really smooth drive with absolutely no jerks or bursts while accelerating. If my toddler is in the front seat, or standing on the floor in front of the seat, then I usually switch to ZIP mode for a smoother drive. I also use it if I'm letting someone else drive the vehicle, especially if they haven't driven anything as big or powerful.
Since this is such a torquey engine, IMHO it would have made sense for the car to upshift early in the ZIP mode as well. As it is, the ZAP and ZOOM modes are the most useful, and the ZIP is a novelty. I tried switching to manual mode and tried shifting early, but the slushbox AT stubbornly held on to the gears and wouldn't respond until the correct rpm was reached, and downshifted as soon as I prodded the throttle.
Hope they fix this with some kind of update in the future and turn the ZIP mode into a more useable ECO mode. While I appreciate the smoothness of the AT and the power available due to the AT being tuned for response rather than FE, I do feel that at least one mode should be tuned for better FE in the city. Not all may agree.
I have done some upgrades to my Z4, some functional and some cosmetic. I've got the chrome window beading set fitted, and also got some of the cladding painted silver to match the higher variants.
The LED bulbs I upgraded to are OSRAM LEDriving 25W which I got from Amazon.in for about 3500/- a pair. I needed 2 pairs for the hi and low beams. I also got OSRAM LEDs for the parking lamps.
Though the halogen lamps were adequate in the city, I upgraded mostly because I am used to the higher intensity LEDs in my previous car. The LEDs proved themselves to be worthy during a Munnar trip with night drive as they properly lit up the pitch dark roads with no street lighting, like day. I plan to upgrade the reverse lamps to LED as well.
Something that I deeply resent is the fact that Mahindra chose to randomly return to the 5x139.7 PCD pattern for the Scorpio-N, last seen on the XUV500, as there is a severe lack of choice for aftermarket wheels as it is a rare PCD in India. Even the Thar which is more off-road focused has the 5x114.3 PCD. So it's not about the strength offered by the larger PCD. Upgrade options are very limited unless you are willing to use a PCD converter setup to change to either 5x160 or 5x114.3. That's a path I'd rather not take, as it would add more failure points, especially as I can't ensure the quality of the converters.