[ralstonraz]

Guys,

Need some help/ Advice.
I have the scorpio m hawk SLE 2009 model.
Have an issue with the remote control.
It has stopped working. Tried replacing the batteries too, but no response.
So here are my questions:-

1. Can I get replacement remotes?
2. Can I do away with the remote locking system and just use the key to open and close the doors?
3. If I have to replace, what is the procedure? and costs associated with it?
4. Is there a way to salvage the remote?

Thanks
Ralston

[SS-Traveller]

Originally Posted by ralstonraz

Have an issue with the remote control.
It has stopped working.

Both remotes, or just one?

Try resetting it after changing battery - there's a little reset button that you need to press with a pen tip or similar, near the unlock button.

[m_upreti]

Originally Posted by ralstonraz

Guys,Have an issue with the remote control.
It has stopped working. Tried replacing the batteries too, but no response.
So here are my questions:-

Check for rust formation on the connectors

1. Can I get replacement remotes?
Yes you can, contact the nearest A.S.S. and get the contact details of the Nippon service centre, the technician will come and replace

2. Can I do away with the remote locking system and just use the key to open and close the doors?

This option is always available

3. If I have to replace, what is the procedure? and costs associated with it?
No ideas on cost but Nippon service is expensive, he might charge 300-500 for visitation itself apart from the parts cost

4. Is there a way to salvage the remote?

PM'd the detailed procedure, which worked in my case

Have sent you a detail PM on issues faced by me and the solution

[Styler]

Hi all

Some years ago my Scorpio's Self would not crank once in a while. Everything including the bendex was checked and was fine. My FNG mechanic concluded since the wiring is old the current is reduced so the occasional self not triggering problem.
The solution he recommended was to install a Relay for the Self. We installed it and there problem never re-occurred after that.

Now my Horns are not blowing strongly, and sometime only one will blow. I have a feeling this could be also because of reduced current. I am thinking of installing a relay for the Horns too.

Does anybody know if there is already a relay for the Horns in the old Non-Crde Scorpio ? If there in none originally, will it be a good idea to install a relay for the horns ?

Styler

[m_upreti]

2 minor issues cropped up in the last few days:

1. Auto locking system stopped working:

The remote was functioning but the doors are not locking so had to manually lock the doors. The unlocking & auto lock after 30 seconds of driving was still working.

This was a known issue so I made the car Relearn the auto locking by turning the key multiple times (8-9 times) in the drivers side lock.

It has started working now.

2. Last night

a. The lights of the instrument cluster and dashboard failed.
b. The auto light and follow me home feature also stopped.
c. The auto wipers is working though

I checked the fuses (located in an unmarked box handing by wires behind the glove box, took me 5 mts. to figure it out). Everything seems to be fine with the fuses but still cleaned the connectors with sand paper and reinserted.

Now the lights on the buttons (auto light, auto wiper, defogger) are working but the instrument cluster is still dark and the auto light is still not functioning.

Guidance on what else to check please.

In the absence of a reliable auto electrician a trip to the A.S.S. may be necessary now as I have to get the AC blower resistance also replaced and is not available in the market.

[axlerod]

Originally Posted by m_upreti

Guidance on what else to check please.

For the instrument cluster please check the Fuse Box located just below the steering column behind the sloping plastic panel between the steering and the pedals. There are two screws which are covered by plastic stubs. The lid falls in a downward direction. Concealed therein is the fuse box. If I recall correctly, then the circuit for the dashboard cluster is the same as the one for the 12V connecter.

[m_upreti]

Originally Posted by axlerod

For the instrument cluster please check the Fuse Box located just below the steering column behind the sloping plastic panel between the steering and the pedals. There are two screws which are covered by plastic stubs. The lid falls in a downward direction. Concealed therein is the fuse box. If I recall correctly, then the circuit for the dashboard cluster is the same as the one for the 12V connecter.

Thanks I know the place, I actually opened that panel first but since I couldn't see the instrument cluster mentioned there I referred to the manual and opened the glove box. Will check and update

[m_upreti]

Originally Posted by axlerod

For the instrument cluster please check the Fuse Box located just below the steering column behind the sloping plastic panel between the steering and the pedals. There are two screws which are covered by plastic stubs. The lid falls in a downward direction. Concealed therein is the fuse box. If I recall correctly, then the circuit for the dashboard cluster is the same as the one for the 12V connecter.

Originally Posted by m_upreti

Thanks I know the place, I actually opened that panel first but since I couldn't see the instrument cluster mentioned there I referred to the manual and opened the glove box. Will check and update

It was the 10 amp Interior Lights Fuse which was blown, in the absence of the spare used a 10 amp copper wire to tie the ends as a workaround till I get the spare.

The most unfortunate part is that none of the 3 fuse boxes have ever had spares or the fuse puller as mentioned in the user manual.

[ramkya1]

Yesterday at Kodaikanal, I realized my Rear Left tyre was loosing air, probably a small puncture or a leak. Went to the tyre guy, all nuts came loose, except one, it started slipping and would not come out! Tried with a regular tyre spanner and a heavy duty socket one too, but the nut heads have rounded off. Filled air again in the morning, only 4 points lost in the night, OK to drive but the nut has to come out.

Typre guy took me to a weld shop today morning, weld guy said it can be taken out by heat, slowly it had to be melted away.

1) Can this be done without damaging the bolt on the drum?

2) Will this not potentially damage the alloys?

3) Has anyone else done this? Mine is a Mhwak

Need to get this bolt out as I have to drive 2 K kms back to Ahmedabd next week. Mine is a Mhwak with alloys and I am at Palakkad, Kerala, they have an ASC here. Thanks for your inputs.

--Ramky
======

[axlerod]

Originally Posted by ramkya1

Need to get this bolt out as I have to drive 2 K kms back to Ahmedabd next week. Mine is a Mhwak with alloys and I am at Palakkad, Kerala, they have an ASC here. Thanks for your inputs.

--Ramky
======

I've done this before, however not in the same way. Here is all you need to know about this.
1) For the heating with acetylene torch procedure, it's very unlikely that you shall be able to have the whole thing complete without having splatter come on to the alloy / tyre / some thing else. The guy yielding the torch shall need to have a very good hand to come through with it. Some precautions to take if you're getting this done is to make sure that your tyre is well covered with some kind of heat resistant cloth.

2) The entire procedure can also be carried out with a standard electric arc welding machine using MS electrodes. It's just that instead of placing weld metal on the bolt, the operator shall use the heat of the arc to just melt away the problematic nut. The advantage of this method is the greater accessibility of the narrow electrode as opposed to the acetylene torch nozzle. However this again depends on operator skill.

3) A very good way to get the whole thing done without much damage to your tyre / wheel is to use a cold chisel and hammer. It's a long and tedious process and that is why people try and avoid it, however this is how I did it for my Old 2.6 Turbo+ Scorpio once. Things to keep in mind for this process is that the width of the chisel is less than the hold diameter so that it does not damage the orifice and that the person doing the hammering does not strike anything besides the chisel. Using this way you can just cut away the problematic nut.

It's a highly probably certainty that the bolt shall have to be replaced after any of these procedures. However it's not that big of a problem getting that done.

A way to avoid such situations is to spray a little bit of WD40 onto the lug nuts before attempting to open them if they've been in place for a long time. Frees them up and avoids slippage.

Hope that the whole thing gets sorted out.

[comfortablynumb]

Originally Posted by ramkya1

Thanks for your inputs.

Any progress, ramkya1? If not, check if one of the solutions given in these pages is feasible:

http://www.team-bhp.com/forum/techni...unded-off.html

http://www.ehow.com/how_6357225_remo...-lug-nuts.html

http://www.jeepforum.com/forum/f12/h...g-nuts-235238/

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Vkyrixli_Ac

The youtube link above has lots of related videos on the right hand side.

Cheers,
Vikram

[n.devdath]

Originally Posted by ramkya1

Typre guy took me to a weld shop today morning, weld guy said it can be taken out by heat, slowly it had to be melted away.

This is easy Anna.

Go to any normal welding shop which makes shutters/doors etc after you have purchased all 5 lugs (wheel nuts) from the ASC.
He will weld a small rod to your rounded head bolt and another rod to the rod making it a "T".

Then, he will unscrew it in 5 minutes. This is safer than melting the nut out and is the preferred way.

Let me know in case you are stuck, there are other ways too.

[ramkya1]

Thanks people, that's useful, will go to the ASC today to get this sorted out, I feel this should be a problem they have solved before.

In the meantime, I think this bad nut was the handiwork of the tyre balancing and alignment work I got done at Ahmedabad just before I drove down, they must have done this shoddy job and not informed me. A professional would have immediately informed and replaced the nut... I'm not going to them again, EVER. The ASC at Amedabad, Punjab Automobiles are very good to me, they would have noticed it or replaced the nut pronto.

Learning, we need to check the nuts personally after every tyre job to ensure a ill-trained mechanic does not damage the nut and let it stay.

-Ramky
====

[ramkya1]

Picture of the mad nut attached: The ASC tried the spanners, impact drills, used WD 40 for 15 minutes and ultimately the cold chisel with hammer and lots of muscle to get this out. New one costs 50 at the ASC, in all it took about 45 minutes. I was worried and I could see they were too from the looks on their face, they thought it would be over in 5 minutes and underestimated the power of a nut!

Thread was OK, they said some sand particles have jammed up the threads, suspect from some OTRs, the quality of the nut was also suspect, the chisel was going in like butter, you can see by the time they got done, it was hacked away pretty badly. Now I need to take out all nuts from all wheels and clean it up off sand. Tomorrows task. Wonder it a diesel bath would clear all the sand?

[anupmathur]

Originally Posted by ramkya1

... Wonder it a diesel bath would clear all the sand?

Even after cleaning good practice would require that molybdenum disulphide grease be applied to the threads before fitting the nuts back.
Do note that while tightening the nuts the torque would need to be nearly halved to achieve the same degree of tightening as without the molybdenum disulphide grease. Makers usually specify tightening torques and mention which lubricant these are being quoted for.