[Styler]

Originally Posted by axlerod

...Could you confirm that the 'Whistling' sound is not the sweet silent whistle of the Turbo Charger. If that's the case then it's nothing to worry about. It can be identified by a faint whistle sound which starts at around 1000 RPM and drowns in the engine's growl at around 1300 RPM.
========
If you can revert with your findings then we can discuss further.

I have a feeling it is the sweet low whistling sound of the turbo charger. The only concern is that earlier it was not there at all, only now have I started to notice this sweet low whistling sound.

[axlerod]

Originally Posted by Styler

I have a feeling it is the sweet low whistling sound of the turbo charger. The only concern is that earlier it was not there at all, only now have I started to notice this sweet low whistling sound.

If it's the spin-up of the turbo charger then it's not a concern at all.

I cannot say that you 'missed' hearing the TC for 1.25 Lakh kilometres!!! It's one of the characteristics of the Scorpios, sometimes I drive with the window rolled down so that I can listen to the evil whistle! It's like music.

Maybe the removal of the air filter resulted in some sort of cleaning or unclogging which has led to a faint increase in the whistle.

Some tips to keep the Turbo Charger always singing sweet, always idle for half a minute just after starting the engine and just before stopping the engine (engine running with no accelerator pressed). This allows the turbo charger to 'Spin Up/Down' and come to it's idle state. Always keep a clean air channel and a good Oil change routine. The engine oil trickles down the centre of the Turbo Charger assembly and keeps it lubricated so it's essential to keep a good oil quality maintained inside the engine.

The first signs of Turbo Charger trouble is
a) Reduction in Acceleration (Low RPMs)
b) Grey smoke coming out of the exhaust (this can also be attributed to engine issues and needs further investigation)

The reason why the Turbo Charger makes the whistle is because of the RPM at which it rotates. It goes beyond a staggering 2 lakh RPM!

[Bhargava_sr]

My 2012 Mhawk is showing a very minor trouble, probably this is the first ever complain on this machine since 42k kms.

By the way Transmission oil is just replaced with Maximile Syntec 75w-90, API GL-4.

Trouble - Once the Gear lever is engaged to reverse, it is refusing to dis-engage (back to neutral). Need to apply a slight pressure from palm to disengage from reverse to neutral. (all other Gear shifts (engage and disengage) are smooth like butter).

Today I visited a nearby Bosch car service and the SA recommended to lubricate the Gear box using a Xado transmission additive (Costing approx 1500). This is a one time treatment and does not need to repeat during every oil change.

Does any one of us have faced this issue in their Scorpio's or anyone have used this Xado transmission additive, expert advice please.

Engine Oil - I use Castrol Magnatec 10w40 API SN/CF Semi Synthetic Oil and this has enhanced the engine performance and has reduced the noise at a very great level. Today Bosch SA recommended to try Castrol 10w60 Fully Synthetic Engine Oil or Addinol for better performance that the Magnatec. Please advice on these engine oils if anyone have tried and tested.

[anupmathur]

Originally Posted by Bhargava_sr

...
Trouble - Once the Gear lever is engaged to reverse, it is refusing to dis-engage (back to neutral). Need to apply a slight pressure from palm to disengage from reverse to neutral. (all other Gear shifts (engage and disengage) are smooth like butter).
...

It could be that the clutch is not dis-engaging fully. Have it adjusted and see if the problem goes away.

[Bhargava_sr]

Originally Posted by anupmathur

It could be that the clutch is not dis-engaging fully. Have it adjusted and see if the problem goes away.

All other Gear shifts are pretty smooth, hence I am wondering if it might not be something to do with the Clutch. Still I will get it checked.

[asdfvinay]

Originally Posted by Bhargava_sr

.......Today I visited a nearby Bosch car service and the SA recommended to lubricate the Gear box using a Xado transmission additive (Costing approx 1500). This is a one time treatment and does not need to repeat during every oil change.

Does any one of us have faced this issue in their Scorpio's or anyone have used this Xado transmission additive, expert advice please...

It may not be something that Xado can solve. I think Xado treatments are used when there is wear, like on gears and cylinders. It forms a new layer to compensate for the wear. The issue you are facing may not be wear in gears. 42k is too early.

The problem may be either clutch or synchronizer. I sugges you take it to MASS, they can identify it very easily.

I faced a similar issue in Indigo and had to change the synchronizer. Recently a friend faced similar issue on Ertiga(wouldn't move out of 2nd gear). In both cases the clutch plates were also changed as the gear box had to be opened. Synchronizer itself is not expensive(remember it to be 3k for Indigo and 4k for Ertiga), but gearbox needs to be removed and when they do it they usually change clutch plates too.

I remember it as synchronizer, the right word may be different. This part aids in gear changes and when it goes faulty there will be problem in gear changes.

Indigo: The gear wouldn't come out of reverse ocassionally. Slightly releasing the clutch, pressing again would allow moving out of reverse.
Ertiga: The gear was stuck in 2nd.

[Bhargava_sr]

Originally Posted by asdfvinay

...The problem may be either clutch or synchronizer. I sugges you take it to MASS, they can identify it very easily.

I faced a similar issue in Indigo and had to change the synchronizer. ...

Your correct its called as synchronizer. Bosch SA mentioned that Xado treatment would fix the unevenness if any between the synchronizers. This would be the first step even before they think of opening the gear box. He has also seen Xado avoiding synchronizer replacements.

I will still get it checked by MASS before going for Xado.

[pcpranav]

Originally Posted by Bhargava_sr

...
Trouble - Once the Gear lever is engaged to reverse, it is refusing to dis-engage (back to neutral). Need to apply a slight pressure from palm to disengage from reverse to neutral. (all other Gear shifts (engage and disengage) are smooth like butter).
...

In my Xylo, I had this problem appearing - Reverse gear being stuck, and needed to apply some pressure to bring back to neutral. The plunger detent kit was replaced. its basically a spring with a ball-bearing, inserted on lower part of gear box.

you can find some details in my post :
http://www.team-bhp.com/forum/test-d...ml#post3386971

see if this is applicable in your case.

regards,

[Bhargava_sr]

Originally Posted by pcpranav

In my Xylo, I had this problem appearing - Reverse gear being stuck, and needed to apply some pressure to bring back to neutral. The plunger detent kit was replaced. its basically a spring with a ball-bearing, inserted on lower part of gear box.

you can find some details in my post :
http://www.team-bhp.com/forum/test-d...ml#post3386971

see if this is applicable in your case.

regards,

Dropped in to MASS (Sireesh Auto, Bangalore) and got the issue rectified.
The mech who attended my car said that a plate which is meant for the reverse gear system has been slightly grinned and re-seated to fix the issue , plunger detent kit is not applicable in Scorpio.
Now I am able to disengage the reserve gear back to neutral as normal.

[sid1509]

Hi everyone,

I am facing a peculiar problem from last 3 months. Problem goes like this - while driving, you suddenly notice that fan speed has increased, wiper speed has increased (their settings remaining untouched), headlight visibility is suddenly more brighter (like amps in the circuits have suddenly shot up). And while this happens, your acceleration inputs are ignored by the engine. It doesn't climb the kmph needle as it should. This happens in spurts and one gets to know it more prominently at night since the headlight is suddenly illuminating the road better. Then, after a few seconds, sometimes a minute or two, everything will be back to its original self (lights - normal, wiper - normal, horn - normal, no more squeaky sounding horn, regular Scorpio horn...nobody has touched any setting on the car) and acceleration works as it should. For last 2 weeks or so, when this happens, "check engine" light comes up and then goes away when everything is normal.

I suspect, there is something wrong with the alternator or the battery. Have been lazy about it, no arguments, but I saw is every 2 min yesterday on my run back from Agra yesterday on Yamuna expressway. Was with family and think can't ignore it anymore.

Thought I will check if anyone on the forum has faced such and issue, if yes, what was the culprit, the fix and the ₹s required to fix it. Any pointers will be helpful.

Mine is a 2009, Scorpio, 4x2 VLX, single owner, done 103500 kms. Hasn't had any major issues except for clutch replacement once. Battery is nearly 2 years old- maintenance free Amazon.

Car hasn't broken a sweat ever in all these years, including all the Ladakh trips, one as recent as june'15.

Thanks,
Sid

[deep_bang]

Originally Posted by sid1509

Hi everyone,


I suspect, there is something wrong with the alternator or the battery. Sid

Yup. My thought is that it is the alternator. I had similar symptoms in headlight s getting bright and this was root caused to the alternator.

[Aroy]

Yes, the alternator voltage regulator is on the brink. Get it checked and replaced soon. If the regulator blows you will be left with a dud alternator at the best, and high voltage at high speeds at the worst (that can blow any electrical including the ECU)

[cataclysm]

Hi Guys,

A friend of mine has a 2014 Scorpio which has clocked 30k kms. A few days back the car's turbo failed and now the A.S.S is saying this is due to the K&N filter that you have installed, which has also resulted in the warranty being void.

Just wanted to know if a K&N filter can cause the turbo to fail? Or is this just some utter nonsense by the company folks?

Thanks!

[SS-Traveller]

Originally Posted by sid1509

...what was the culprit, the fix and the ₹s required to fix it.

Blown AVR (automatic voltage regulator) in the alternator. If not repaired quickly, results in fried alternator internal wires and windings, plus collateral damage like burnt AC blower or wiper motors, fused light bulbs, etc. The ECM has built-in protection, and will go into limp mode if over-voltage happens.

Originally Posted by cataclysm

...the car's turbo failed and now the A.S.S is saying this is due to the K&N filter...

Possible, depending on type of damage to the TC (on inlet side or exhaust side). K&N free-flow filters, if not maintained properly (and even otherwise) admit coarser dust particles into the engine, than the original filter. In any case, after-market modifications give companies and dealers the perfect excuse to legally shrug off their warranty related responsibilities.

[anupmathur]

Originally Posted by SS-Traveller

...
Possible, depending on type of damage to the TC (on inlet side or exhaust side). ....

Actually, whatever 'dirt' gets into a cylinder has passed through the blower wheel already and will soon also pass through the turbine wheel, assuming the 'dirt' is dust and is incombustible.
The point to remember is that dirt ingress also pollutes the engine oil to a certain degree and this can have consequences all its own.

It would be very unlikely that a K&N filter causes turbo failure, but the maker has a perfect excuse to blame it on the after-market fitment.

Here is a very interesting study that brings into question whether there is any gain at all after fitting these performance filters.

http://www.thedieselpageforums.com/t...ad.php?t=11674