[asdfvinay]

Originally Posted by PRADEEP KUMAR

Gurus,
Recently i discovered that my 2005 crde well maintained etc is really slowing down in inclines.
I am writing this from coonoor.Used the kalhatti ghat and she really huffed and puffed up the hills.4 years back only once i shifted to 1 st gear!!!
Absolutely no issues in plains and she is doing fine there.
What could be the issue?

cheers.

Hi Pradeep,
How was this addressed? I am facing the same problem now with my Scorpio.

Thanks.

[n.devdath]

This happened to me when I was at HP in Feb and has been in my mind ever since and hence thought of asking you folks:

Hariya was parked for a couple of days and the outside temparature was around 3-4deg celsius and hence the engine was really cold.

I needed to start him at around 6 in the morning.

He cranked up with the first key as always and settled into a smooth idle, however, while I was sitting holding the steering wheel with my hands, I could clearly feel grrrrrrr....."thud"grrrrrrrrrrr...."thak"grrrrrrrr r...."thud"...grrrrrrrrrrr.... kind of movements and noises happening in the engine. These thuds and thaks were NOT at even intervals or periodicity.

The feeling was as if one heavy metal component was hitting another with high intensity but low force.
Post that, it was his normal grrrrrrrrr......smooth as always.

Once he warmed up, he was as smooth as always.

[SS-Traveller]

Originally Posted by n.devdath

grrrrrrr....."thud"grrrrrrrrrrr...."thak"grrrrrrrr r...."thud"...grrrrrrrrrrr....

Cylinder misfire, probably due to momentary injector nozzle blockage.

New noise started up in my Scorpio. A steady krrrrrrrrrrr when rpm is at 2800-3000+ in gear, or accelerating hard from 2000+rpm. Only when the engine is fully warmed through - doesn't happen at lower rpms, or when temp gauge hasn't risen to max. Sound seems to come from the front right of the engine bay. Doesn't happen when revved on idle.

Visit to ASS due tomorrow morning. Will update re findings.

[Jack Sparrow]

Noticed 3 new problems after 7K kms of driving.

1. Rear left Power window stopped working
2. Front Driver side Power window stopped working.
3. Last monday, after a stop and go, started to hear a "Krrrrrrr" noise from the engine. The noise starts once the key is at the on position and even after cranking, does not go off. (This one is a little worrisome). Currently out of country and will go to the ASS once back.

Tried to find out the origination of the sound and is coming from the right side of the engine. Anyone, any suggestions.Thx...

[neerajpv87]

Guys, I'm in serious trouble and any help would be appreciated. My car is a 2006 CRDE model and has 82K on odo. It all started when I noticed my temperature gauge has stopped working. Since the car was leaking coolant as well, I thought it's better to get it all sorted out. Took the car to nearest Mahindra service centre. Evening got a call from SA saying that they'd have to replace something so as to fix coolant leakage and it'd cost around 1.5K and I said okay. Next he said the instrument cluster has gone kaput and it'd have to be replaced. He said it'd cost 6.5K. I asked him to wait and I called my dad's friend who worked with Mahindra before, and he said he can procure me a used cluster so that I won't have to pay much. He said I'd have to wait for a few days and it was okay with me. Same day took car from service centre and my SA assured me the coolant leakage is rectified.

After few days, got the used cluster and installed it from a nearby workshop specialised in Mahindra vehicles (recommended by my dad's friend). Used the car for few days and noticed the cluster was behaving weirdly. Once I start the car the temp needle would go to middle mark, and this was happening in cold starts as well. Fuel gauge would show full tank reading, and randomly would show some other mark. Took the car to workshop. The guy said he'd check it. Next thing he did was he popped the hood, and at once his face was like . I asked him what's the matter, and he said the turbo is leaking oil. I replied there's no chance for that to happen since I'd shown the vehicle to SVC last week. He said he is sure about it, and he showed me a pipe which was drained and swollen with oil. I said okay clean it. He said the coolant leakage has not been fixed and showed me the coolant holder which was near empty. I said fix it as well. This happened a week back and the car is still with him. Yesterday got a call from him saying that the ECU might've gone kaput. I asked what the !!! He said there's no problem with the cluster but the ECU is not giving any output. I asked him to check one more time and call me back today.

I don't know what's happening. Is there any chance of ECU going kaput like this? Apart from the coolant leakage and temp gauge not working car doesn't have a single problem. And I'm sick of the incompetence of the Mahindra SVC guys.

[Guderian]

Originally Posted by neerajpv87

Guys, I'm in serious trouble and any help would be appreciated...

1. For oil leakage get the oil separator and the turbo seals checked.
2. Not very sure whether the ECU unit can go on the blink so fast (80K KMs)- or may be it can. Logically if the ECU goes on the blink how can the vehicle run ? At best it can go into the 'limp home' mode I guess.
What needs to be done (and I am not sure why it was not done at the ASC) is that you need have the vehicle checked out with the laptop and OBD and see what all error codes surface. That would give an idea what exactly is wrong or whether it is just something wrong with the instrument cluster and wiring etc.
3. As far as the coolant leakage is concerned - all the seals including at the engine front side (under the cover concealing the chain drive) needs to be checked. It could be as simple as the drain bolt at the bottom of the engine block having given way or the seals under the cover having given way. Check the reservoir dabba as well. Sometimes cracks develop there...

Originally Posted by Jack Sparrow

3. Last monday, after a stop and go, started to hear a "Krrrrrrr" noise from the engine. The noise starts once the key is at the on position and even after cranking, does not go off. (This one is a little worrisome). Currently out of country and will go to the ASS once back.

Have them to check the starter motor and the electricals.

Originally Posted by asdfvinay

Hi Pradeep,
How was this addressed? I am facing the same problem now with my Scorpio.
Thanks.

Have the air filter been changed as per the manual ? The foam element need to be changed at 40K KMs or earlier if being driven in very dusty conditions. Have the MAFS (sitting atop the air filter hose) checked too. Good to hook up the laptop for diagnoostics to see if there is any error code from the MAFS - Mass Air Flow Sensor.

Originally Posted by SS-Traveller

New noise started up in my Scorpio. A steady krrrrrrrrrrr when rpm is at 2800-3000+ in gear, or accelerating hard from 2000+rpm. Only when the engine is fully warmed through - doesn't happen at lower rpms, or when temp gauge hasn't risen to max. Sound seems to come from the front right of the engine bay. Doesn't happen when revved on idle.

Doc - Instead of the engine could it have something to do with the front right wheel bearing ?

[SS-Traveller]

Originally Posted by Guderian

Doc - Instead of the engine could it have something to do with the front right wheel bearing ?

Silly me. The rattle-like-a-rattlesnake sound was because of two copper heater pipes touching inside the dashboard. Seems it's a common known issue with Scorpios. Once hot coolant softens the rubber parts of the pipes, they tend to vibrate and touch together, making that noise. The technical specialist tied up the pipes with a cord while we were on the TD, and the noise disappeared. Pipes are being properly set as I write this, to prevent them rattling against each other subsequently.

Anybody knows what grade of oil the FEO is? Nothing marked on the can, and it appears to have pretty low viscosity.

[asdfvinay]

Originally Posted by Guderian

Have the air filter been changed as per the manual ? The foam element need to be changed at 40K KMs or earlier if being driven in very dusty conditions. Have the MAFS (sitting atop the air filter hose) checked too. Good to hook up the laptop for diagnoostics to see if there is any error code from the MAFS - Mass Air Flow Sensor.

Air filter is only 8k old. When I noticed the low power, I first expected air filter. In the immediate next service I got all filters and all oils were replaced. But there was no difference. MAF was checked and laptop too was connected and no errors were found. A senior mechanic who regularly attends my Scorpio took a test drive and said everything is normal, there is nothing worry at all. I started living with it.

There are no other issues and for normal driving it drives just like new. Issue is, when I slow down on inclines, the car doesn't pull off in 2nd gear as it used to and needs a shift to 1st. Before this I never had to use 1st. Vehicle easily touches 130(I did not try beyond that).

The odo is currently at 98k, can any of the following help.

1. Clutch is stock clutch. There is no slip but it does feel hard. Last time I asked MASS to change it but they did not saying it does not need replacement. Planning to get it changed at 1L just to have a softer clutch.

2. Will decarbonizing help? last done was at 60k(added to job sheet by SA). Though I do not believe in decarbonizing, now I am forced to think in these lines.

3. Flushing fuel lines and silencer. Does decarbonizing clean the silencer too?

Thankyou.

[PRADEEP KUMAR]

Originally Posted by asdfvinay

Hi Pradeep,
How was this addressed? I am facing the same problem now with my Scorpio.

Thanks.

Well I don't know really as I have not been on any ghat road after that. But did a thorough service etc. Think it is not bad now as earlier even when climbing flyovers the speed would drop drastically. I really could not pin point the issue to something. Hope this clarifies.

cheers

Note from the Team-BHP Support Team: SMS Language is STRICTLY prohibited on Team-BHP. Please type in full and proper English for the benefit of other community members.
I've corrected your post this time.

[gypsyFreak]

My lx 4wd stopped working today morning. The starter motor refuses to crank. Got the SA to check and he says that vehicle is immobilized. After putting laptop it is giving error code p1823.
The vehicle is now in IG Mysore. Another thing is that music system has gone kaput, rest all electricals are fine.

Gurus, any ideas on the root cause and possible solutions.

[Guderian]

Originally Posted by gypsyFreak

My lx 4wd stopped working today morning.

Not sure...but blown fuses ? Immoblised vehicle can be set right by the laptop or jabs on the key - why are they taking this long ?

Originally Posted by asdfvinay

1. Clutch is stock clutch.

2. Will decarbonizing help? last done was at 60k(added to job sheet by SA). Though I do not believe in decarbonizing, now I am forced to think in these lines.

3. Flushing fuel lines and silencer. Does decarbonizing clean the silencer too?

Decarb doesn't touch the silencer. And I don't believe in it.
Get a second opinion on the clutch then.
Just a hunch - check all the hoses. Tighten them. Especially the turbo ones.

[asdfvinay]

Originally Posted by Guderian

Decarb doesn't touch the silencer. And I don't believe in it.
Get a second opinion on the clutch then.
Just a hunch - check all the hoses. Tighten them. Especially the turbo ones.

Thankyou,
Will get the clutch changed at 1L.
Hoses were checked and ok, will get them checked again. Top turbo hose(red one) was replaced on my insistence because it was slightly wet with oil though there was no visible crack or leak. The low power I'm saying is in low rpms, even before the turbo kicks in say 1200 rpm.

[gypsyFreak]

Originally Posted by Guderian

Not sure...but blown fuses ? Immoblised vehicle can be set right by the laptop or jabs on the key - why are they taking this long ?

There are no blown fuse, SA is of the opinion that remote locking has got the codes erased, probably due to fall and when this key was inserted, the immobilizer got activated. Soln given is to re-program the ECU code.
Is this logical?

[asdfvinay]

Originally Posted by gypsyFreak

There are no blown fuse, SA is of the opinion that remote locking has got the codes erased, probably due to fall and when this key was inserted, the immobilizer got activated. Soln given is to re-program the ECU code.
Is this logical?

If that were the case, is it not possible to deactivate/reset the immobilizer by locking/unlocking with the second remote?

How did you unlock the doors? If the codes are erased, the remote should not open the doors. If you have opened the doors with key, the alarm should have gone off, did that happen?

[gypsyFreak]

Originally Posted by asdfvinay

If that were the case, is it not possible to deactivate/reset the immobilizer by locking/unlocking with the second remote?

How did you unlock the doors? If the codes are erased, the remote should not open the doors. If you have opened the doors with key, the alarm should have gone off, did that happen?

The doors unlocked normally, even now doors, lights and all other electric system except music player work fine.
No alarm nothing, just that the engine check indicator keeps blinking and there is no self start. Even the SA tried jump start, but did not work.
When the SA connected the laptop, it shows two error codes ... no ecu response and immobilizer authentication failed.