[JoshuaS]

Originally Posted by sidpunjabi

Great to hear that.

If (God forbid) you have to get it done, please post an update.

I saw this happen on my dad's '06 Verna. Never bothered with it then but I'm curious to know if it's a Hyundai thing to give OEM ICE's that last only 5-6 yrs.

I hope that's not the case, but I will definitely update this thread should it get any worse.

[AltoLXI]

I have the 2018 model of i20 Asta. What is the right way to let the security guys open the boot door without me getting out / switching off the engine? Read somewhere that the engine needs to be turned and key should be removed from fob.

[sidpunjabi]

Originally Posted by AltoLXI

I have the 2018 model of i20 Asta. What is the right way to let the security guys open the boot door without me getting out / switching off the engine? Read somewhere that the engine needs to be turned and key should be removed from fob.

I'm stating my experience with the 2013 i20 Asta model. I'm not sure if this will be applicable to the newer 2018 model as well.

IMO there are 3 ways, one can do this without switching off the engine. (I'm listing these in order of preference).

1. Just unlock the driver side door manually from the inside. This automatically unlocks all 5 doors (4 doors + boot).

2. Since you have an Asta model which I'm guessing still comes with a key-less ignition - just stick your hand out the window and keep the boot-unlock button on the key-fob pressed for 3-5 seconds, this will unlock the boot without unlocking any of the other doors.

3. Hand over the key-fob to the security guy when he comes to the door, and tell him to return it once he's done checking. (You may see the typical "Key not in cabin" error on the HUD and hear a high pitched noise emanating from the car while the fob is out of the cabin but it will go away once the fob is back inside the cabin)


Hope this helps.

[AltoLXI]

Originally Posted by sidpunjabi

I'm stating my experience with the 2013 i20 Asta model. I'm not sure if this will be applicable to the newer 2018 model as well.

IMO there are 3 ways, one can do this without switching off the engine. (I'm listing these in order of preference).

1. Just unlock the driver side door manually from the inside. This automatically unlocks all 5 doors (4 doors + boot).

2. Since you have an Asta model which I'm guessing still comes with a key-less ignition - just stick your hand out the window and keep the boot-unlock button on the key-fob pressed for 3-5 seconds, this will unlock the boot without unlocking any of the other doors.

3. Hand over the key-fob to the security guy when he comes to the door, and tell him to return it once he's done checking. (You may see the typical "Key not in cabin" error on the HUD and hear a high pitched noise emanating from the car while the fob is out of the cabin but it will go away once the fob is back inside the cabin)


Hope this helps.

Thanks for the suggestions.

In fact there is a button right in the middle, with Blue light always on, (above rear parking camera screen) which when pressed opens all the doors (including boot door). My bad, I had not thought about that

As you mentioned the opened door on driver's side also helps.

[sidpunjabi]

Originally Posted by AltoLXI

Thanks for the suggestions.

In fact there is a button right in the middle, with Blue light always on, (above rear parking camera screen) which when pressed opens all the doors (including boot door). My bad, I had not thought about that

As you mentioned the opened door on driver's side also helps.

Ok, so I guess that makes it 4 ways then,

On a side note: I read somewhere that the speed-sensing door lock feature (auto-lock once speed cross 15kph) will be re-introduced into the 2018 model. Is it true?

[AltoLXI]

Originally Posted by sidpunjabi

On a side note: I read somewhere that the speed-sensing door lock feature (auto-lock once speed cross 15kph) will be re-introduced into the 2018 model. Is it true?

Yes it is true. The doors lock once the speed is achieved.

[Mark 5]

Hello,

I am facing a peculiar problem with my i20 (2010 model, clocked ~50K km).

Around 2-3 weeks back, while returning from a 65-km drive, I heard a noise (more like water boiling) from the engine bay. I immediately took the car over to roadside and opened the hood, and I found some coolant overflowing from the reservoir bottle (although the temperature gauge in dashboard was indicating "normal" engine temperature). I then carefully drove the car to home. I reported this incident to my garage guy and handed the car to him.

After 1-2 days, the guy then handed the car back saying that there was leakage in the radiator at 2 places, which he fixed. He also cleaned the radiator, topped up the coolant, and replaced spark plugs (which had fouled) and the radiator pressure cap. He also checked the radiator fan for its working, which according to him is fine (all these repairs/replacements cost me ~4K Rupees).

He told me to watch if the coolant level rises up the "F" mark again in the reservoir bottle as well as check the level of coolant under the radiator pressure cap (when the engine becomes cool). According to him, if the problem crops up again, then the head gasket may have gone bad and will require replacement (for which he quotes 20-25K Rupees for the entire job - is this job really that costly???).

This weekend, I did a 225-km trip, with 50% AC use, without any issues, except that the water level below the radiator cap was slightly low at 1-2 instances, which I topped up using water when the engine was cold. The car was not used later for 1 day.

However, today evening I found that the coolant level in the reservoir bottle had risen up by at least 1 inch after normal city usage (approx. 35 km), and the water level under the radiator cap was considerably low. Again, the temperature gauge was showing "normal" engine temperature all the time.

I checked that the engine oil has not turned milky and there are no oil deposits in the coolant reservoir bottle. The car has done ~300 km since the first incident.

Could anyone guide me what to do next? Could the head gasket really have gone bad? If yes, what is the approximate cost of replacing i20's head gasket and other allied components?

Thanks

[sidpunjabi]

Hi Mark5,


I'm no expert but from my basic understanding, the coolant begins circulation around the engine once the engine heats up, and once the coolant reaches near boiling point - the pressure causes a spring in the radiator cap to release the excess coolant into the reservoir. When the engine is off and begins to cool, the excessive coolant is released into the reservoir.

The whole point of this closed-loop system, is to ensure that the total level of coolant always remains constant and does not evaporate due to engine heat.

Originally Posted by Mark 5

Around 2-3 weeks back, while returning from a 65-km drive, I heard a noise (more like water boiling) ..... He told me to watch if the coolant level rises up the "F" mark again in the reservoir bottle as well as check the level of coolant under the radiator pressure cap

It's possible that the spring mechanism in the radiator cap may be malfunctioning, causing the engine to release excessive "hot" coolant into the reservoir. This could have lead to the "water boiling" incident too. Hence the need to check if the level rises above "F".

This is again dangerous, as continuous release of excessive coolant into the reservoir might not leave sufficient coolant for the engine on long drives.

Originally Posted by Mark 5

This weekend, I did a 225-km trip .... done ~300 km since the first incident.

Could anyone guide me what to do next? Could the head gasket really have gone bad? If yes, what is the approximate cost of replacing i20's head gasket and other allied components?

Only 300kms and these sort of incidents is definitely a sign. I would recommend putting the car on jacks, running the engine and checking for any signs of leakage again in your presence.

With ~50k kms on the ODO and 8 years of running - it could be the headgasket, it could be the piping, it could be rust, it could be any/all of the above, or even none of the above - even something as small as not putting the reservoir's cap on properly could lead to these problems.

As for part prices, you can always checkout boodmo.com. They usually stock OEM parts for Hyundai, along with the part number. I haven't bought anything from the website, but their prices are usually pretty comparative and do provide a good starting point.

PS: I'm no guru, this is just my perspective. There are a lot of experts on our forum that may be able to give you a better picture.

[Mark 5]

Originally Posted by sidpunjabi

Hi Mark5,


I'm no expert but from my basic understanding, the coolant begins circulation around the engine once the engine heats up, and once the coolant...PS: I'm no guru, this is just my perspective. There are a lot of experts on our forum that may be able to give you a better picture.

Thanks for the reply, sidpunjabi!

The garage guy replaced the radiator cap, so we can rule out the faulty spring mechanism. However, I agree with you that because the car has clocked ~50K km and is 8 years old, any part of the cooling mechanism could be faulty or due for replacement (although the garage fellow did not mention anything about faulty hose pipes).

I will check this weekend in front of the garage guy if the radiator still has some leaks.

As for the website, thanks for sharing the name - I will check boodmo.com to get an idea about the prices of spare parts.

Thanks

[sidpunjabi]

Originally Posted by Mark 5

I will check this weekend in front of the garage guy if the radiator still has some leaks.

All the best with this Mark 5

Do keep us updated about the situation. Would be happy to know how it gets solved in the end.