[The Hurricane]

Originally Posted by Pam81

I own a 2012 i-Gen i20, Sportz CRDi. I am getting 16 kmpl average in City only drives with 70% AC usage and 2 persons occupying the car including driver. I drive about 8 km a day for office to & fro. Average weekend drives in & around city goes for about 40 km. I have observed 0.5 kmpl increase in FE if I do 100 km roundtrip highway drive once during between tank to tank fuel fill.

i20 may not be best in class in terms of FE, but hey you have got loads of stuff to play with

Seriously I agree with your comment. One never gets tiered driving the i20.

[connect2prashan]

Originally Posted by The Hurricane

Seriously I agree with your comment. One never gets tiered driving the i20.

Talking about getting tired; Of-course I do not get tired. However, I experience a pain now-a-days that annoys me.

My i20 has done 57000 kms in about 42 months. Clutch is now a tad tight/tough. After/during long drives say about 300-500 kms drive, I feel an acute pain on the left knee (exactly at the knee cap's base). I get this after about 2 hours of driving or about 120 kms. I am not sure if this is due to clutch use as we do frequent gear changes with the 6 speed. (often have to slip down to 5th/4th once in every 3-4 mins) Annoyed of brain less truckers changing lanes 40kmph just when you are about to pass them. and some of them run side-to-side, one at 50kmph and the other at 50.5kmph and he takes forever to overtake.

Has anyone else experienced this or any other kind of discomfort?


PS: I don't get this pain when I drive dad's Fiesta Classic petrol. The clutch is smooth. Remember classic does not have a dead pedal, yet I manage without any discomfort.

[harsha.muvva]

Originally Posted by connect2prashan

My i20 has done 57000 kms in about 42 months. Clutch is now a tad tight/tough. After/during long drives say about 300-500 kms drive, I feel an acute pain on the left knee (exactly at the knee cap's base). I get this after about 2 hours of driving or about 120 kms. I am not sure if this is due to clutch use as we do frequent gear changes with the 6 speed. (often have to slip down to 5th/4th once in every 3-4 mins)



Has anyone else experienced this or any other kind of

My i20 has done 44,000 kms and i do experience a similar pain after driving for more than an hour in city traffic which i dont feel while i drive honda city petrol/innova in similar traffic!

However i dont feel this pain while driving on highways even for 5-6 hours

Complained the same to my service advisor and the only response i get is "cluctch might need replacement at next service".I am not convinced with this as i feel 43k kms is too less for clutch overhaul(the honda city i drive regularly is still on stock clutch without any problems even after 50k kms)

Regards,
Harsha

[guyfrmblr]

Originally Posted by harsha.muvva

My i20 has done 44,000 kms and i do experience a similar pain after driving for more than an hour in city traffic which i dont feel while i drive honda city petrol/innova in similar traffic!

However i dont feel this pain while driving on highways even for 5-6 hours

Yes, city driving requires lots of gear changes between 1st and 2nd at lower speeds. I drive only 20% in B2B traffic, else even I'd have started complaining about knee pain.

Complained the same to my service advisor and the only response i get is "cluctch might need replacement at next service".I am not convinced with this as i feel 43k kms is too less for clutch overhaul(the honda city i drive regularly is still on stock clutch without any problems even after 50k kms)

Thats the common dialogue by the service advisors - "We have to replace saar". They just replace everything even if its is a very minor issue. 43K km is too less for a clutch replacement. My i20 has completed 89K km and the clutch is completely fine. So it should really last longer if used correctly.

[racer_ash]

Originally Posted by connect2prashan

Has anyone else experienced this or any other kind of discomfort?

PS: I don't get this pain when I drive dad's Fiesta Classic petrol. The clutch is smooth. Remember classic does not have a dead pedal, yet I manage without any discomfort.

AFAIK, the diesel i20 (pre-facelift) has a rather long clutch travel and I am sure this travel must be more than the petrol Fiesta you are talking about. Long clutch travels are notorious in causing knee pains (especially at the knee caps) since this is the joint that will be used the maximum while engaging/disengaging the clutch.

My dad had a similar problem in our swift and instead of going to the SA, we went to a ergonomics expert. He gave us a good insight on the stresses that are placed on the left knee joint when driving a manual.

As per him, seating position plays a very important role in such a situation. An ideal position would be once where the knee joint turns the minimum. Now imagine, the angle between the calf and the thigh is at 'x' when your foot is on the clutch pedal fully engaged. When it is fully disengaged, it would be at a position 'y'. As per the expert, the Delta between X and Y should be at minimum.

Once way of doing this is to push the seat a little backwards or to raise the seat height a little. The higher the angle bwteen the calf and the thigh, more relaxed the knee joint is when ur depressing the clutch as the downward force vector exerted by the thigh muscles are transmitted fully onto the clutch and the vector that pushes the knee cap outwards is less. (Too much physics, but hope you understand). You can go as far off and as high so as to not to hamper all round visibilty while driving.

It worked oretty well for my dad and he can drive all day long without much issues. I too follow the same principle and I dont experience any such pain even in continuous city or highway drives.
hope this helps.

[connect2prashan]

This is a great read for me. And correct, I have been driving with the seat position little forward compared to my past. I have been doing this to allow more space for the rear passenger since we have been traveling in 4s/5s for almost 12-15k kms in the last 1 year. (Am 6 feet)

I will have to put the seat to its original position as before. (A little more backwards) I will try this and update. Traveling to Bangalore over the weekend.

So this pain does not seem to have links with the tougher clutch. Thanks a lot buddy!

[fullspeedahead]

Hi All,

I am posting this on behalf of my friend,

Car: i20 – Sportz – Diesel
Date of Purchase: Nov 2013
Mileage: 16K kms

Running Type: Per month – 2200 kms
(Highway – 1500 kms, City – 700 kms)

Bakground: The 10K service was done. Engine Oil, Engine Filter & Air Filter were changed by HASS.

Issue: The average of the car has suddenly dropped after the 10K service done.

Before Service Averages(KMPL):
Highway 20
City 14

After Service Averages(KMPL):
Highway 17
City 12

The Diesel filter was not changed duirng the service. I need your help to understand the root cause and possible corrective action required for this.

Thanks,
Anand

[DasAuto]

Need some advice. My 1month old i20 Asta (1.2 P) is experiencing a strange problem. Last night I was practicing starting on a slope & I think I overdid it after stalling the car quite a few times. Suddenly after starting the car, the FM channels (set) got messed up & the speedometer & tachometer stopped working for a few mins. After stopping & starting the car a few times it was back to normal, however while driving back right before parking the brake pedal went hard on me & I literally had to apply brakes with all my strength (luckily I was just parking in my society's compound). Today while taking her out, I observed the same issue - speedometer & tachometer unresponsive. I pulled over, stopped & started the car again & it was working again - drove around for the next 40 mins. no issues with brakes or other electricals.
Can anyone give me any pointers as to what could be the issue - I hope I haven't hurt her bad.
Planning on giving the A.S.S a call.

[Alvord12]

Originally Posted by DasAuto

Need some advice. My 1month old i20 Asta (1.2 P) is experiencing a strange problem. Last night I was practicing starting on a slope & I think I overdid it after stalling the car quite a few times. Suddenly after starting the car, the FM channels (set) got messed up & the speedometer & tachometer stopped working for a few mins. After stopping & starting the car a few times it was back to normal

Don't worry about that. It happened with me too when I was a learner. I guess it happens when you manage to stall the car a lot in a short span of time. Some times even the fuel gauge didn't move.

Originally Posted by DasAuto

however while driving back right before parking the brake pedal went hard on me & I literally had to apply brakes with all my strength (luckily I was just parking in my society's compound). Today while taking her out, I observed the same issue - speedometer & tachometer unresponsive. I pulled over, stopped & started the car again & it was working again - drove around for the next 40 mins. no issues with brakes or other electricals.
Can anyone give me any pointers as to what could be the issue - I hope I haven't hurt her bad.
Planning on giving the A.S.S a call.

In my case the steering went hard and the red steering light [Which indicates that the power steering is not working] lit up. But this was only when I was stalling the car multiple times. I haven't experienced this issue ever after I got a proper hold of the pedals.

I don't think it's necessary to contact the A.S.S, but if you're extremely concerned about the issue; a call and a check up might give you some peace of mind.

[DasAuto]

Originally Posted by Alvord12

Don't worry about that. It happened with me too when I was a learner. I guess it happens when you manage to stall the car a lot in a short span of time. Some times even the fuel gauge didn't move.



In my case the steering went hard and the red steering light [Which indicates that the power steering is not working] lit up. But this was only when I was stalling the car multiple times. I haven't experienced this issue ever after I got a proper hold of the pedals.

I don't think it's necessary to contact the A.S.S, but if you're extremely concerned about the issue; a call and a check up might give you some peace of mind.

Thank you, I too thought about the same & suspected that I had blown a fuse or something. Luckily the next time I started the car, things were looking fine with all the dials working properly, drove it around for some time no issues. So I guess I'm fine for now. Have the 1st free service coming up next month, so will get her checked then .

[bharat4ever]

I have an i-gen i20 diesel.

Has anyone faced issues with the car refusing to start when for instance you switch off the car at signals? I have been facing this issue rarely, but it's there. I've got the battery checked, sent the car for an engine and valve service. And the service engineer also said he couldn't find anything wrong with the car. Any ideas?

Also, its been 30k km, and I am thinking about getting the tyres changed. The Apollo tyres are so susceptible to punctures it's not funny anymore.
Please suggest a good set of replaceable tyres which will sit on top of the stock alloys.

[racer_ash]

When you say its refusing to start, do you mean to say it does not crank at all or it cranks but it does not start? How were you able to come out of this situation?

Also with regards to the tyres, I recently changed my stock apollos (35k done with sidewall cuts on 2 of them) to Yokohoma Earth-1s after reading about them in our forum itself. They are extremely silent and I am seeing a marked difference in the steering feedback and weight. They also have stronger sidewalls and are reportedly made for Indian conditions. Do check them out.

[ravib]

Originally Posted by racer_ash

Also with regards to the tyres, I recently changed my stock apollos (35k done with sidewall cuts on 2 of them) to Yokohoma Earth-1s after reading about them in our forum itself. They are extremely silent and I am seeing a marked difference in the steering feedback and weight. They also have stronger sidewalls and are reportedly made for Indian conditions. Do check them out.

Thats true. Yokohama Earth or A-Drive are good choices. I've recently changed to my other car (Swift) and it can see considerable difference.

-Ravi

[bharat4ever]

Originally Posted by racer_ash

When you say its refusing to start, do you mean to say it does not crank at all or it cranks but it does not start? How were you able to come out of this situation?

Also with regards to the tyres, I recently changed my stock apollos (35k done with sidewall cuts on 2 of them) to Yokohoma Earth-1s after reading about them in our forum itself. They are extremely silent and I am seeing a marked difference in the steering feedback and weight. They also have stronger sidewalls and are reportedly made for Indian conditions. Do check them out.

It cranks, but refuses to fire to life. That's why I was able to conclude that it wasn't the battery. I turned the car off, waited for a second to two, and then tried again it worked. Same thing has happened about 3 times now.

Also about the tires, when I was looking out for my i10 a few years back, guys at this forum asked me to go for Michelin. They are no good for the i20?

[_raVan_]

Originally Posted by bharat4ever

Also about the tires, when I was looking out for my i10 a few years back, guys at this forum asked me to go for Michelin. They are no good for the i20?

Nothing like that. Michelins and Yokos are equally good, though Michelin has a softer side wall. Go with the one you like, and try to select the 185 (or 195 if you want to ) section tyres.