[TB16]

So finally installed a sequential CNG kit in my 2014 i20 Sportz yesterday. The car had only done around 12K Km in last 15-16 months. But since i will be changing my job from next month, my running will go up to almost 70km daily. The installation was done from Tara Dutt CNG at Kotla. My previous 2 cars (Santro, NHC) were also done from the same shop. The power difference is quite negligible while running on CNG although the first gear is a little jerky.

[kkdelhi]

Some advice will be helpful:

I have the previous-gen i20 (late 2012) which is nearing the end of its third-year running. I was initially thinking of getting a replacement (possibly an automatic), but have currently decided against it.

So, the situation is: I now want to refresh my existing i20. It is a Sportz model, so is pretty loaded that way, but is pure stock. Now I am looking at ways to freshen it up a bit with some cool accessories, so that the car feels 'renewed' for another couple of years or so.

My list includes:
1. Art leather seat covers (but I have heard this takes time and they rip your car apart).
2. Illuminated scuff plates.
3. HUD.
4. Rear LEDs (it already has front DRLs, but don't know whether this is doable, I mean the rear ones).
5. Any other that the Team-Bhp community can advise me on...

Let me know. Thanks.

[racer_ash]

I faced the same mid-life crisis with my 2011 i20 Sportz. This is what I had done.

1) Headlamp upgrade (Not the upgrade to 100/90 but wih better Hella bulbs)
2) Bosch two tone horn (popularly known as Skoda/VW horn)
3) Interior ambient lighting. It lights up the driver/passenger footwell with a cool looking Blue colour. It is hooked on to the cabin lights. So its got a nice theatre dimming effect as well.
4) Changed cabin lights/Boot lamp to pure White LEDs. (Plug and Play). Next in line is he rear number plate lamps.
5) Hyundai logo projection. Fitted to bottom of the front doors to show a nice Hyundai logo on the road when opened. This is hooked to the cabin light as well.
6) A couple of Transformer stickers and one of Eddie (from Iron Maiden fame) to give it a mean look.


Now regarding the Scuff plates, I have mixed opinions on this. Mostly because on hard use, they simply come off. I have used fevistick twice on them and I feel fevistick is better than the 3M tape adhesive the scuff plates come with.

HUD, you can download an app (for all OS types) and use ur phone as one. Im sure it wud suffice.

Get philips LEDs for the derriere. They are bit on the costlier side but have a good illumination/look to them.

[Pam81]

I own a 2012 i20 Sportz CRDi. As of today it clocked 19000 km.
I am facing rather complicated issue with the vehicle speedo and the electric power steering. The speedo needle fluctuates between 0 & 20 ~ 40 and exactly at that point, steering becomes extremely light for couple of seconds and then weighs up real heavy and sometimes felt like total loss of EPS assistance. Steering light came in but disappeared as the speedo became normal. There was no pattern on this error, it happens suddenly and disappears suddenly as well. Left the car at HASS and found a DTC: C1622 & the description is "EMS - Invalid Vehicle Speed".

https://youtu.be/1tv7sXrPYuU

Here's what the HASS checked and currently waiting for speedo console spare to check in my car.
1. Changed the Vehicle Speed Sensor (VSS) in the transmission on a trial basis to check if this issue with the sensor. But it turned out still the same issue surfaced.
2. Checked the Wheel Speed Sensors of ABS module: But no issue found.
3. Fuse boxes, ground and connectors cleaned and re-fit. No resolution yet again.
4. They are doubting the Speedo console as output signals from the VSS goes to EMS & separately to Speedo console as well. Since it is PCB based unit, they are waiting to get a spare to check on the same.

If you faced any such issues and successfully resolved, can you please guide me on how it was resolved? Good thing is that the HASS is willing to help and they are listening & answering to fault finding questions / suggestions. However, this issue itself is very trivial, sometimes it occurs and sometime it won't. Earlier, they were not really agreeing with me when I described, then they were inclined to check when I shown them the video and once day I drove straight to them when the issue surfaced without shutting off the vehicle. Only then, they have advised me to leave the car with them as it is not safe to drive.

I would welcome any other views / suggestions / help in rectifying this problem! Thank you.

[alphahere]

Originally Posted by Pam81

1. Changed the Vehicle Speed Sensor (VSS) in the transmission on a trial basis to check if this issue with the sensor. But it turned out still the same issue surfaced.
2. Checked the Wheel Speed Sensors of ABS module: But no issue found.
3. Fuse boxes, ground and connectors cleaned and re-fit. No resolution yet again.
4. They are doubting the Speedo console as output signals from the VSS goes to EMS & separately to Speedo console as well. Since it is PCB based unit, they are waiting to get a spare to check on the same.

I would welcome any other views / suggestions / help in rectifying this problem! Thank you.

Interesting problem! Obviously the VSS did not have a problem in the first place. That is the reason why error code has fired (unless the actual speed is measured by GPS :P). The power steering assist is variable based on the vehicle speed. Hence the erratic assist from the PS when the speedo fluctuates.

It could be the case that the PS speed input comes from the speedo console and not from the VSS. So the EMS gets one speed figure and the PS gets a different figure. Thus, triggering this error code.

Or it could be a case that the VSS sends a speed figure to the EMS and the EMS sends an incorrect value to the EPS module and causing this error to trigger.

To check out if the console is the problem (looks unlikely!) why not take it out and perform a bench test rather than wait for a spare? You could also get the HASS to remove the connectors from the EPS CM and ECU and get them cleaned and reinstalled after checking for any break in the circuit. If none of this works it could even relate to a faulty EPS system! Please do update the resolution as it looks like it could happen to anyone!

[ravib]

I have i20 Asta - 2011 model. Need to change Windshield wipers. Any good recommendations?

-Ravi

[Pam81]

Due to vacation travel could not post an update to the Speedo fluctuation & EPS steering problem earlier.

A week before Diwali, I was greeted by my service advisor from Sanjay Hyundai, telling that a speedo console spare has been sourced from their different branch and a trial will be made that day. Due to tight work schedules in office, I could not go and asked him to keep me posted about the trials and findings. Till evening there was no call from him. Around 5pm, I have called him and he asked me to visit their shop if possible. I stressed him to say what was the finding today and whether the issue is repeated. He said the issue is same with the new console as well but the good news is that they found the culprit and fixed it. He could not explain me very well over phone, just said something wrong in the fuse box. I could not believe it because the fuses checked and some connectors were cleaned in front of me a week back. Excused myself from work, went straight to their workshop in Hadapsar, Pune. Met the service technician and asked him how it was resolved. Well, he said, with the changed console he almost went up-to Saswad, 40km from their service station but found no issue. However, when he is returning, the speedo started fluctuating that got him thinking what is it really doing? Somehow, he got an idea to check the fuse box back panel which he knew is of PCB based but did not doubtful earlier. There was moisture built up and due to which signals were passed intermittent. As soon as it has been cleaned, speedo fluctuation did not surface again. He went on saying that it is very similar to a computer motherboard. Moisture content in motherboard makes the display or some processor go haywire. He observed the same thing in the PCB panel which is the root at the fuse box located beneath the driver side.

I have no idea how moisture crept in neither they were. Anyhow, I was happy to see that my 6 months ordeal finally resolved. Could not get the actual picture as they have fixed it before I reach there. With the part number, got a picture of the fuse box online and posting the same here for clarity. Could not get the picture of the sub-components though.





My learning with HASS:
It is really hard to convince service guys for trivial & not so obvious problems such as these. This is true & frustrating with increased electronic content in the car. Initially, speedo fluctuates for a moment & then goes back to normal. Very embarrassed when I was telling there's a problem and during a trial drive it is not happening and they are apprehensive and used their traditional "chalta hey" attitude in convincing customer it is nothing just your feeling. After 2 times like this, I have recorded a video when this happened. Then they started to believe there's something still did not acknowledge. Just cleaned some connectors and said I will be fine. For the service guys, this car just one of many; but for for owners it is just the only one. Again the problem repeated in couple of days, this time they asked me if I can drop the car for few days so that they can check thoroughly. The car was there for 5 days and returned without fixing anything because they said there was not DTC and speedo never fluctuated. Cursed the situation, took it back and kept using the car with extra caution and mostly for city commute.
After 2 months, the frequency of this problem increased gradually, I get to experience it every morning and but evening it acted normal. With increased frequency and almost certain it won't go away unless I shut the car off and restart again, drove straight to them with their commitment for trial from their gate. It took 6 months to make them believe with a strong recurrence of the problems. At least this service center was receptive to my suggestions and kept answering. The other one in Kharadi, Kothari is nowhere near professional. They are the brother of Kothari wheels. A Maruti showroom, I can connect where their behavior & customer service inherited from.

Even though OBD and huge array of sensors in the car & engine, everything won't throw a trouble code. There are numerous combinations of failure modes in electronics and only critical elements are checked with software codes. Other electrical faults are still left to skilled technician.

[Jag4]

Hello all,

I own a 2012 Crdi Sportz model which has just crossed the 40,000 km mark. This post deals with my experience during this service. I am listing some of the issues I faced, if anybody has had the same issues please share your experiences and point out any anomalies, if any, in the bill attached. Total cost was Rs.9000.

1. The wipers would work only when they wanted to and one fine day decided to give up completely so got them opened up by a FNG and upon inspection it was found that the entire wiper motor has Rusted/Corroded on the insides, it was also observed that how the wiper motor is installed at the lowest point in the particular area and how the channels used to drain water were completely blocked by mud and grime accumulated over the last 3 years of the cars existence.

Solution : My advice for fellow owners would be to get this area cleaned up at the earliest as the wiper motor retails for Rs.10,600/- at service centers. The FNG managed to source one for me after enormous pains from a scrapped car for 2k.

2. The Airbag Warning light came on for around 2 weeks before I could take the vehicle for a service due to my Exams.

Solution: No real Solution. My SA told me that the sensor was malfunctioning due to it being embedded in the horn pad and the horn pad was supplying more current than usual due to aftermarket horns. He said he could replace the sensor but the issue may reoccur with the aftermarket horns.

It left me thinking whether someone on the forum could help me with the truthfulness of the statement. So, if anybody can answer this question, it would be of great help to me.

3. The chrome coating on the interior door handles started peeling off from the plastic of the handle and as the chrome is a hard layer in itself, I found myself getting two deep gashes as I tried opening the doors while conveniently forgetting the problem.

I also wanted the gear boot to be replaced under goodwill warranty as the leather has deteriorated on its own but it was denied on the grounds of it being a wear and tear part.

Solution : The Service advisor got the handle replaced for me as a goodwill warranty part after I asked him to do the same but not the gear boot.


The 40,000 Kms Service
The service was done at Autoweb Hyundai, Rama Road, New Delhi and was full of hasty decision making on my part. Since I took the delivery very late in the evening on the day of the festival of lohri, my S.A. had already left the place so there was no one to explain the bill, i will be going to the service centre again to sort some of the issues out.

Due to the utterly stupid ODD EVE rule by the Delhi govt. I had to get my Car picked up at 7:30 Am and delay delivery to 6.30ish as this was the most, the service centre people could accommodate me and Kudos to them for that.

But after this everything went downhill, I got a call at around 9:00 AM confirming the receipt of my vehicle and explaining what was to be done.
I told them specifically to do the bare minimum.

I got a call again at 11:00 Am confirming the warranty replacement of the door handle and asking for my approval to get the Gear oil replaced (which was only done 10,000 kms ago when the clutch plates were replaced under very dubious circumstances) as it looked dirty for which I gave my assent as I was busy with a hectic schedule today and didn't think it out. Upon reading the manual, I have realized that the Gear oil is only supposed to be Inspected until 80,000kms.

Why is it that at any service center, you always have people waiting to milk you and you have to look at everything they do with an eye of suspicion. The not so transparent or confidence inspiring state of affairs in a Hyundai workshop only make me unsure about getting my car serviced again at any authorized service center vs a FNG.

A Himgiri Hyundai workshop(now shut down) where I got all the free services done managed to change the door handle of my car with another and it opens much tighter than usual, so every passenger has to atleast pull twice on the handle.

Crossmember Lubrication, Brake cleaning was done and I only got to know about it while paying the bill. Also, they forgot to put my parcel tray back after cleaning the interiors, so I will have to call them up again and retrieve it from them.

[ank.nsit]

Hey Guys, My friend has iGen i20 Sports CRDi variant 2013 model.

His car is with the service centre for 40K KM service. It has been running on stock brake pads till now.
The service adviser called to inform that both the front and rear brake pads need replacement.

I have a few queries:

1. Is it normal for the front and rear brake pads to be worn out equally? I mean is the life span of both front & rear the same?
2. What is the cost of the brake pads? HASS is quoting 2200 fir the front ones and 4400 for the rear ones. Is the actual price that high?
3. How much would be the cost saving if I get the brake pads replaced with my trustworthy FNG?

Thanks,
Ankur Gupta

[Jag4]

Originally Posted by ank.nsit

Hey Guys, My friend has iGen i20 Sports CRDi variant 2013 model.

His car is with the service centre for 40K KM service. It has been running on stock brake pads till now.
The service adviser called to inform that both the front and rear brake pads need replacement.

I have a few queries:

1. Is it normal for the front and rear brake pads to be worn out equally? I mean is the life span of both front & rear the same?
2. What is the cost of the brake pads? HASS is quoting 2200 fir the front ones and 4400 for the rear ones. Is the actual price that high?
3. How much would be the cost saving if I get the brake pads replaced with my trustworthy FNG?

Thanks,
Ankur Gupta

Hello Ankur !
I own the same car and had my brakepads replaced about an year ago.

1. It's definitely normal for brake pads to wear out equally and since the brake force is distributed for the front and rear to wear out together.

2. Costs: Front: Part no. 581011JA10 : 1641 + 620 = 2261 (Part + labour)
Rear : Part no. 281131J000 : 1290 + 710 = 2000 (Part + labour)

3. An FNG should be able to do it for you in around Rs.3000.

EDIT : Just saw your post was from 3 days ago. Anyways, hope it helps.

[ank.nsit]

Originally Posted by Jag4

Hello Ankur !
I own the same car and had my brakepads replaced about an year ago.

1. It's definitely normal for brake pads to wear out equally and since the brake force is distributed for the front and rear to wear out together.

2. Costs: Front: Part no. 581011JA10 : 1641 + 620 = 2261 (Part + labour)
Rear : Part no. 281131J000 : 1290 + 710 = 2000 (Part + labour)

3. An FNG should be able to do it for you in around Rs.3000.

EDIT : Just saw your post was from 3 days ago. Anyways, hope it helps.

Thanks Jag for your post. It definitely is helpful. Wonder why did the service center quote 4400 bucks for the rear ones,

[akp666]

Guys I have a 2012 I20 (p). I love the car but the pickup is abysmal. I was thinking to remapping my car, but the economy will take a hit as it already delivers 12 Kmpl. My question is, has anyone remapped their petrol I20? Should I go for it?

[The Hurricane]

Dear team members, I have realised a shocking fact about the security systems of Hyundai cars.

1) first I lowered the rear windows of my 2013 i20 CRDi 2) then I locked my car and ensure that the smart key is very far away from the car so that it's not detectable by the cars sensors 3) now I open the door from inside assuming that some thief if trying to enter my car 4) now that's when the shock came. The cars alarm does not ring nor does the lights flash.

Now how can hyundai give a security system which does not even give out all audible or flashes if the car is broken into. Has anyone faced the same in their cars. I have tried it on the new elite and also on the i20 Active model too.

awaiting to hear in this regard from other members also.

[RSR]

Originally Posted by The Hurricane

awaiting to hear in this regard from other members also.

This is certainly not the case with my i-gen i20 (2013 make 1.2 VTVT Asta variant), and yes, I have tried it several times. Once the car is locked and any one of the doors is opened from the inside, the alarm starts blaring away!

[The Hurricane]

Originally Posted by RSR

This is certainly not the case with my i-gen i20 (2013 make 1.2 VTVT Asta variant), and yes, I have tried it several times. Once the car is locked and any one of the doors is opened from the inside, the alarm starts blaring away!

Thanks RSR for the quick reply. Mine is an Asta variant too but no alarm happens which in itself is strange. I have highlighted the same to HMIL. Let me get it checked by a dealership first.