[prateekvidya]

Hi all,

Has anyone driven i20 for more than 75-80k kms without changing gear oil and brake fluid ? Just wanted to check if gear oil is that critical when there are no symptoms of malfunction.

Thanks,
Prateek

[alphahere]

I got my i20 CRDi Asta in 2013 while I was working in Chennai (This is an important point to be noted). The engine was super refined, fast and sort of powerful (though not as much as the 90hp figures suggest, probably due to the weight of the vehicle). The vehicle did move quite fast effortlessly on highways touching good speeds. But I still found the acceleration lacking (again for a 90hp). I could out accelerate Maruti DDiS diesels (same class at that time) but not by a satisfactory margin for me.

So I decided to go in for a tuning box. I chose the RaceDynamics Dual Channel box. It was a plug and play and performance did increase in the P2 mode along with a slight increase in noise. But it was nothing like a tyre screeching monster. Also each time I switched the mode between P1, P2, S and E using the remote with my foot flat on the accelerator, the engine cut out and I would have to coast to the shoulder and restart it. After driving this for about 10k kms I decided to do away with the box as the gains were really not that substantial for me(again IMO) along with the stalling problem.

Then I got transferred to Bangalore and moved there with my CRDi. Surprise, surprise.. when I reached Bangalore, the engine seemed even more refined than its usual self. It was so silent almost petrol like. I had a wide grin on my face. Maybe Bangalore climate was good for the engine. Then came on the shocker..After I drove for a day or two, I felt the engine to be low on power than usual. I was befuddled.. How could such a sudden change happen? Did I fill in wrong fuel? Did the air filter get clogged? Did the turbo blow? Whatever it is how can such a sudden drop in power happen while everything else seems fine? Drove it as it is for about 2 or 3 months due to lack of time and other priorities and the car was still running OK. I eventually got used to the present power delivery of the engine. Then decided to travel back to Chennai to settle some pending stuff.

Out of Bangalore, drove down the slopes, reached Krishnagiri, the car was a different animal altogether. It was back to its old self (now forgotten), peppy, powerful and a bit more noisier than in Bangalore?? The idle rpm was near about 1000 rpm in Bangalore, but ‘downstairs’ it was about 850 rpm? What about the drastic increase in power?

I was out of Bangalore only for a day, so came back the very next day. Reaching Bangalore, I felt the lack of power again. I as perturbed by this because it seemed the car did not deliver its specs at higher altitudes. I was so happy with the quality, features, refinement, everything. But this drastic drop in power at Bangalore or whereabouts really threw me off.

So I decided to go in for a remap at Bangalore! After a few hours of coding and flashing and trials, I settled on a map that seemed acceptable to me. The power loss seemed to be taken care of with a bit more of extra pep and I was happy(This is again important because there was not too much of power gain but power loss was corrected).

Now comes the second surprise..I had to travel to my hometown in Kerala after the remap. Drove down the slopes, reached Krishnagiri, the car became a monster altogether. Acceleration was astounding. The car was accelerating like there was no tomorrow. It was leaving vehicles in the same class and maybe 2 classes above for dead. Keep working through the gears, I was reaching insane speeds in the blink of an eye especially with the slick shifting 6 speed gearbox.

Coming back to Bangalore, the car became more docile. The power delivery became more controllable. This was when I realized that altitude had some major major role to play in the performance of Hyundai CRDi engines. I was pretty sure it was not a problem localized to my car because I know other friends who own Hyundai diesels and face this power drop (with so called increase in refinement) at higher altitudes.

(Off topic here, I also own a Ciaz Diesel which is 90hp fully stock and its performance and refinement whether at Bangalore or elsewhere remains about the same).

Hyundai has not done something that that should take into account lesser air density at higher altitudes. This has been done by Maruti!

Presently I have a free flow exhaust with a matching remap that can trounce almost any vehicle on the highways on plains but conditions apply. Once I cross Krishnagiri or likewise towards Bangalore towards a higher altitude, I can just about keep up with a stock Maruti DDiS where in lower altitudes I would have passed it with no effort at all! I can only imagine a stock i20 CRDi vs any Maruti DDiS, the DDiS would easily pass the Hyundai. And this is just due to this mis-programming or whatever I don't know.

I would request owners of the U2 CRDi engine to comment on their personal experiences with their vehicles. It could be the Creta 1.4 or Verna 1.4 or i20 or i20 Elite. Lack of performance at higher altitudes is a problem and it needs fixing. Hope at least the future generation vehicles from HMIL have this problem sorted out.

[Jag4]

Hello all,

Seem to be having an issue with my i20 crdi lately, whenever the car is between gear changes or while stopping at red lights or while making a U-turn (basically when the car is in neutral at a speed of 20-30km/hr) the Tacho needle goes crazy, Rpm fluctuates in the range of 500-1500 rapidly after which the needle drops to 500 Rpm and the engine dies. Any pointers as to what the problem could be ?

I just got my car serviced, Engine oil was replaced and the filter was serviced according to hyundai's service schedule. Also Filled fresh fuel but the problem is still present.

I couldn't go to the service centre again but I talked to a mechanic who said suggested using an injector cleaning additive.

Any help on the issue is appreciated.

[kalpeshc]

Originally Posted by Jag4

Hello all,

Seem to be having an issue with my i20 crdi lately, whenever the car is between gear changes or while stopping at red lights or while making a U-turn (basically when the car is in neutral at a speed of 20-30km/hr) the Tacho needle goes crazy, Rpm fluctuates in the range of 500-1500 rapidly after which the needle drops to 500 Rpm and the engine dies. Any pointers as to what the problem could be ?

I just got my car serviced, Engine oil was replaced and the filter was serviced according to hyundai's service schedule. Also Filled fresh fuel but the problem is still present.

I couldn't go to the service centre again but I talked to a mechanic who said suggested using an injector cleaning additive.

Any help on the issue is appreciated.

I was having similar issues with my 2010 Sportz Petrol and eventually after a lot of struggle, I found that the ECM had some issues of wiring. Had some local ECM repair guy fix this. The connection of the wires were damp and it was giving the exact same issue. On neutral, the RPM used to fluctuate and even reach as high as 3000-4000! But if I am in gear, the car used to run fine. Drove the car is such state from Mumbai to Surat (as I have a known Hyundai mechanic there) who managed to fix this issue from an independent ECM repair chap

[procrastinator]

Originally Posted by alphahere

I got my i20 CRDi Asta in 2013 while I was working in Chennai . . . . .

That's an interesting observation.
It feels i20 doesn't like Bangalore

Did you get chance to try 0-100 and compare the figures ?

[Jag4]

Originally Posted by Jag4

Hello all,

Seem to be having an issue with my i20 crdi lately, whenever the car is between gear changes or while stopping at red lights or while making a U-turn (basically when the car is in neutral at a speed of 20-30km/hr) the Tacho needle goes crazy, Rpm fluctuates in the range of 500-1500 rapidly after which the needle drops to 500 Rpm and the engine dies. Any pointers as to what the problem could be ?

I just got my car serviced, Engine oil was replaced and the filter was serviced according to hyundai's service schedule. Also Filled fresh fuel but the problem is still present.

I couldn't go to the service centre again but I talked to a mechanic who said suggested using an injector cleaning additive.

Any help on the issue is appreciated.

Originally Posted by kalpeshc

I was having similar issues with my 2010 Sportz Petrol and eventually after a lot of struggle, I found that the ECM had some issues of wiring. Had some local ECM repair guy fix this. The connection of the wires were damp and it was giving the exact same issue. On neutral, the RPM used to fluctuate and even reach as high as 3000-4000! But if I am in gear, the car used to run fine. Drove the car is such state from Mumbai to Surat (as I have a known Hyundai mechanic there) who managed to fix this issue from an independent ECM repair chap

Okay so, Went to the service centre today to collect my car but the car had the same issue still.

Ended up going for 4 rounds and 20kms worth of Road testing to finally find out that a Neutral Switch was being shown on the GDS (OBD SCANNER) as the error.

The neutral switch was replaced by them, costs 1820 Rs. And was a 20 minute job after 2 hours of roadtesting.

Tip: If you experience any issue in your car and the mechanic or the advisor tries to pass it off at normal as they did with me, ask them to take a similiar engined car for a Roadtest and observe it for similiar behaviour.

I did the same thing today and that led to the final diagnosis within 5 minutes after 2 hours of them trying to fix it by themselves.

[libranof1987]

Got the insurance renewed for my Sept '13 i20 1.2 Petrol Sportz.

There was a claim a few months back (bumper nicked by someone while the car was parked) so no NCB.

Decided to go with Tata AIG since New India won't give a 0-dep policy.

0-dep policy with 2 lakh cover for unnamed passenger/driver came to Rs. 16,303.

Was considering getting the Engine Protector add-on (called Pearl Plus plan) but it had a bunch of other things (key replacement, consumables, hotel and taxi reimbursement) for Rs. 18700 but decided against it.

[D4d-maniac]

Hi everyone,
I have been having a problem with my 2013 i20 Sportz CRDi. My car met with an accident in January this year. The entire front and rear suspension had to be changed along with the radiator, left front fender and fog lamps. Reportedly no damage to chassis or the engine. Work done was upto my satisfaction and the car was driving fine for the next 4000 km. That was until i drove to Kasauli from Chandigarh on a particularly bad road. After that the car started having "Khat Khat khat" kind of sound while braking to a complete halt, starting from rest and particularly driving in a relatively higher gear at low speed. This was associated with vibrations, not in the steering but more generalized in nature.

I went to the Hyundai dealership from where the post accidental repair had been done. It was found that a nut joining the front left swing arm and the main chassis cross member was worn out and loose. They put in a different nut but even it could not be screwed in tight. It was seen that the part where the nut goes in the chassis cross member had become deformed and the socket was damaged. They gave me 3 options,

1. Drill the socket of the cross member and put in new rings and then an oversized bolt.

2. Drill through the entire chassis after cutting off a part of the chassis and put in a nut and a bolt.

3. Change the entire chassis cross member which would cost about 18000 plus labour and taxes.

Even the service guys are not very confident about the integrity of repair in option number 2. Please give your opinions guys.

[sagarpadaki]

Change the cross member. It is a very critical component holding all the front of your car together.you would not want to cut corners in that.

[D4d-maniac]

Originally Posted by sagarpadaki

Change the cross member. It is a very critical component holding all the front of your car together.you would not want to cut corners in that.

Thanks for the quick response. Even I want to change the cross member but it's taking them about 2 weeks to source the part. I don't want any "jugaad" work done here.

[libranof1987]

The keys on my mum's i20 (Sept '13 Sportz model) are starting to tear so need to get that fixed.

One option is this:

http://www.team-bhp.com/forum/diy-do...ml#post3584060

https://www.amazon.in/Replacement-Bu...+i20+key+cover

The other (and preferred) is getting a silicone cover. Any recommendations. I found a couple on Amazon but mixed reviews on size/fitment.

https://www.amazon.in/PITZO-Silicone...+i20+key+cover

[ashishy]

Originally Posted by libranof1987

The keys on my mum's i20 (Sept '13 Sportz model) are starting to tear so need to get that fixed.

One option is this:

http://www.team-bhp.com/forum/diy-do...ml#post3584060

https://www.amazon.in/Replacement-Bu...+i20+key+cover

The other (and preferred) is getting a silicone cover. Any recommendations. I found a couple on Amazon but mixed reviews on size/fitment.

https://www.amazon.in/PITZO-Silicone...+i20+key+cover

I got the key body replaced for Rs. 800/- from Key Master, Mumbai.
http://www.team-bhp.com/forum/mumbai...ml#post3992652

[kalpeshc]

Have been using the silicon key cover on my 2010 i20 since more than 3 yrs now. The only additional thing I''ve done is removed the dried out rubber from the key and put in a small thin foam placeholder instead. I've taped it up and then covered it with a silicon key cover. Just make sure you get the right cover though (the amazon links are for the newer i20)

[sabsubs]

Originally Posted by sabsubs

I get to hear the sound when the Turbo kicks in. Yesterday I went for a long drive and I could hear the sound but while returning from my journey the knocking sound had stopped. It is bit weird. Today I took my car for it's second free service and reported the issue. But again could not reproduce the knocking sound. Along with the technician, we went for a very long test drive for about 100 Kms but no luck again. I am suspecting that the issue could be in Turbo because the knocking can be heard when the Rpm is around 1700 to 1800, that's range when Turbo kicks in. Could you please check whether you are hearing the sound within the Rpm range that I have motioned?

The knocking issue has become a permanent one. I am unable to get rid of it. Nowadays I am doing many long drives and I get to hear the sound when the turbo is about to pool in and this happens only on long drives when I hit 3 digit figure and within the city the car is absolute fine. My car odo stands at 27k kms.

I feel drop in power at that particular phase where the sound is heard. Anyone who reported this issue in this thread got it resolved? And if yes how did you get it resolved.

[kalpeshc]

My sunvisor has come loose and now does not hold itself in position when i try and pry it loose to turn towards the right side. This one costs approx 1k to 1.5k it seems. Does anyone know whether it can be repaired?