[sagarpadaki]

Originally Posted by JithinR

Cross posting from the Used cars prices thread:

An old colleague is moving back to Bengaluru from his hometown and is looking for a used car (I did ask him to get it from his town since it would be cheaper than Bengaluru but that did't work out).

We came across a Hyundai i20 Diesel Asta on spinny that seems to be in decent nick. Thinking of checking it out this weekend (https://www.spinny.com/buy-used-cars...n-bangalore/s/).

However, I am not sure of the prices. Is 4.96L even close to being resonable for a 65k run 1st Owner example?

The car looks good visually.

5L is on higher side. to 4.25L is the max I would go with provided the car is mechanically in sound condition with decent tyre life left.

[sidpunjabi]

Originally Posted by JithinR

Cross posting from the Used cars prices thread:

However, I am not sure of the prices. Is 4.96L even close to being resonable for a 65k run 1st Owner example?

At 65k, you're probably looking at the car's mid-life crisis - that's when Hyundai recommends replacing / "inspecting" most of the wear and tear components.

Dents and nicks are easier and cheaper to fix. You'll want to look at the engine - particularly the belts, battery, any engine-running-hard noises, the suspension set-up - i20s have a relatively soft suspension setup and if driven hard - the springs, shocks and tyres tend to wear out faster.

PS: Given the recent trend in fuel prices, I want to add that the car is a guzzler in stop-and-go traffic.

[r.joshi]

Pls don't pay more than 3 lacs for a 10 year old i20.

[TB16]

Hi guys, my 2014 i20 (Petrol + CNG) is due for service by March end. The car will complete 100k km by then. Now for the first time I'm thinking of getting a service done from outside (Not HASS). Since I'm using synthetic oil (Hyundai prescribed) since last 100k, i wish to use the same only. Any idea which company and what grade suits i20 the best? Also are there any major issues which needs to taken care during the 100k service. The car is running very good till now and was last serviced at 90k at hyundai.

[JoshuaS]

Hello, I have a 2013 Petrol Asta and last week the right side DRL conked off (TBH, approximately half the LED died a while ago and the rest went off last week).

The fog light works fine. Would anyone know what may have caused this and if this can be fixed? I'm located in Mumbai. It just doesn't make sense to spend close to 10K for a replacement.

Thank you.

[JithinR]

Originally Posted by r.joshi

Pls don't pay more than 3 lacs for a 10 year old i20.

Sorry didn't see your post till now. While I agree with what you say..the reality on the ground is different from what little understanding I have.

Used car prices all over the country seem to have gone up due to a combination of multiple factors (pandemic obviously, start ups venturing into this space, more demand than supply etc.)

This is even more pronounced in cities like Bengaluru. I can hardly see 2012 to 2013 i20 CRDi for less than 4.5L. Many of these have two or more owners or have run more than 80k.

I guess this will eventually correct itself but that might take years. At least in Bengaluru, people might ditch their new/used cars once all the businesses open up and they remember why they had to go by public transport in the first place.

[Retrogrease]

Originally Posted by TT-S

Sorry for the late (and rather long) update.

I had given the car for diagnosis at Popular Hyundai Kazhakuttam - They ran the car and checked for one week but could not find fault with anything nor replicate the issues I had. So I used the car for few more months without problems, and sent it for routine service at 1,33000KM to MGF Padivattom. I did not use it for 3 days after it was serviced, but took it out on Good Friday for a trip, during which it broke down while cruising at 50 kph. Although it cranked, engine would not fire up at all. Also noticed that immobilizer key and yellow engine lights are not lit when turning the key. Towed it to Popular Vyttila. They checked the car for a day but could not find fault - It started and ran fine, and they could not see any errors logged in the ECU. So they gave me the car back, and I took it to Trivandrum once again taking a risk - It was uneventful.

The next week, when I was returning from office at 9:30PM, it again broke down in similar fashion . Since roadside assistance was unavailable at night time, pushed it to the kerb safely and got it towed next morning to Popular Hyundai Pattom service center. There it was diagnosed as an ECU problem, and an estimate of 42K INR was given for replacement. I got ECM replaced after waiting 4 weeks (Time for new ECM to come from Hyundai, reprogram 2 keys for new ECM, 50km test drive post installation). Total bill came to 38K INR. After taking the delivery of the car, found that right side fog lamp was missing - which was then replaced free of cost by dealership, but the bulb was non-functional after a few days. I guess they had used an aftermarket one. I had complained to Hyundai (using their customer care page) to waive off the ECM replacement cost as it is a part that failed in many petrol i20s from 2010 - with no response at all. Since I had no time to explore alternative options, chose the ECM replacement from Hyundai ASS itself.

One month after ECU replacement, I again had similar feeling of car shutting down at idle speeds (turning steering quickly at standstill/reversing) - The MID was flickering like crazy when this happened. Got battery checked again and it was found functioning properly. Took it again to the Popular Pattom service center and got the MID replaced. This seems to have fixed the issue and I am yet to encounter the stalling problem at idle speeds again. Also this time got the genuine fog lamp installed which cost me INR 580/-.

The car seems to be becoming less reliable after 9 years and 1,36000 KM. Wondering whether I should replace it or keep going for a few more years with it.

I had a similar experience. I was driving down the highway and all electricals just shut down for a second. The stereo restarted after flickering momentarily, the steering got jammed and the AC restarted in AUTO mode with 22 C on the display. That was a one off experience and now after reading your posts, I might sell it off since I do not wish to shell out large sums of money to replace the ECM. This is a plague that exists in both petrols and diesels I suppose, since mine is a diesel Sportz.

Thanks for the headsup. I am from Kazhakuttam by the way, and I regularly service my car at KZM popular.

[TT-S]

Originally Posted by Retrogrease

I had a similar experience. I was driving down the highway and all electricals just shut down for a second. The stereo restarted after flickering momentarily, the steering got jammed and the AC restarted in AUTO mode with 22 C on the display.

@Retrogrease your issue sounds more like a battery/connection issue to me. If the car has been left idle for long, rodents could have bitten off the main leads to the battery or other important ones. Please check under your bonnet to see if there is anything amiss. The air con resetting to default value of auto in 22 degrees happens when the battery is at fault or the wiring is cut. This has happened to me earlier just before my battery went dead.

When the ECU problem occurred to me, only the engine shut down - The air con blower, headlight, and everything else was functioning normally even after the engine cutting out abruptly.

[vidyanand]

Can someone point me to the Reverse Camera Fuse on 2013 i20 (petrol)? Wasn't able to locate it in the fuse diagrams.
Cold start does not trigger the reverse cam but works fine after few minutes driving. I assume loose or dying fuse.

[MotoBlip]

Originally Posted by vidyanand

Can someone point me to the Reverse Camera Fuse on 2013 i20 (petrol)? Wasn't able to locate it in the fuse diagrams.
Cold start does not trigger the reverse cam but works fine after few minutes driving. I assume loose or dying fuse.

Check the B/UP LAMP 10A fuse, try replacing that. It's that or otherwise a loose wire connection, could be a rat bite or something, best to get it checked.

[vidyanand]

Originally Posted by MotoBlip

Check the B/UP LAMP 10A fuse, try replacing that. It's that or otherwise a loose wire connection, could be a rat bite or something, best to get it checked.

Thanks for replying.
I actually did end up pulling each fuse out and figured it. Missed updating back here. The fuse was intact but I repositioned it after taking it out. If it happens again, will get the wires checked for any rat bite.

[Romins]

Originally Posted by JithinR

Used car prices all over the country seem to have gone up due to a combination of multiple factors .

JithinR, last month I bought a good i20 CRDI from Teambhp classifieds. 2012 Sportz variant. It is difficult to find good cars with single owner. If you find one, don't hesitate even if the price is a little higher.

[JithinR]

Originally Posted by Romins

JithinR, last month I bought a good i20 CRDI from Teambhp classifieds. 2012 Sportz variant. It is difficult to find good cars with single owner. If you find one, don't hesitate even if the price is a little higher.

Yep, Agreed. Missed a few good ones because I thought the prices would come down eventually (that too in Bengaluru, can't believe that I was that naïve). I finally stopped searching for myself and got my dad a car (I still have a bike that I can use for my office commute).

The problem actually seems to have got worse since then. Now if I try to casually search for a suitable car, forget finding one at a good price, I can't even get actual owners except in forums like ours.

All the cars sold these days seem to come from dealers or aggregators who have crazy markups.

[Romins]

Originally Posted by JithinR

Yep, Agreed. Missed a few good ones because I thought the prices would come down eventually (that too in Bengaluru, can't believe that I was that naïve). I finally stopped searching for myself and got my dad a car (I still have a bike that I can use for my office commute).

There is one in classifieds. Please take a look, if you are still looking for an i20 CRDi. This particular trim comes with Auto-dimming RVM, electric folding mirrors, auto-sensing wipers, 4-disc brakes, reverse camera/sensor etc.

P.S: I don't know the seller. I just thought of you when I saw the ad.

[TT-S]

My 12 year old i20 1.2 went in for repairs 2 days back, at Popular Hyundai Vyttila. The Ac would shut off within a minute of switching on, and the car was seen overheating (temp. needle higher than halfway mark, but not in the red region). The radiator fan is intermittent and might not turn on at times which might be the cause of the issue. Also there is some resistance as the car moves and it looks like the rear brake shoe/lining needs replacing (Above diagnosis is from the service center).

Following are approx quotes for the parts:
Fan motor: 6500/-
Rear brake lining: 3500/-

Is the above pricing in line with Hyundai Mobis parts catalogue? Or am I getting overcharged?