[TT-S]

Originally Posted by sidpunjabi

Hey TT-S,

Did Hyundai solve this problem? What was the issue? Was it to do with the wiring or a fuse?

Sorry for the late (and rather long) update.

I had given the car for diagnosis at Popular Hyundai Kazhakuttam - They ran the car and checked for one week but could not find fault with anything nor replicate the issues I had. So I used the car for few more months without problems, and sent it for routine service at 1,33000KM to MGF Padivattom. I did not use it for 3 days after it was serviced, but took it out on Good Friday for a trip, during which it broke down while cruising at 50 kph. Although it cranked, engine would not fire up at all. Also noticed that immobilizer key and yellow engine lights are not lit when turning the key. Towed it to Popular Vyttila. They checked the car for a day but could not find fault - It started and ran fine, and they could not see any errors logged in the ECU. So they gave me the car back, and I took it to Trivandrum once again taking a risk - It was uneventful.

The next week, when I was returning from office at 9:30PM, it again broke down in similar fashion . Since roadside assistance was unavailable at night time, pushed it to the kerb safely and got it towed next morning to Popular Hyundai Pattom service center. There it was diagnosed as an ECU problem, and an estimate of 42K INR was given for replacement. I got ECM replaced after waiting 4 weeks (Time for new ECM to come from Hyundai, reprogram 2 keys for new ECM, 50km test drive post installation). Total bill came to 38K INR. After taking the delivery of the car, found that right side fog lamp was missing - which was then replaced free of cost by dealership, but the bulb was non-functional after a few days. I guess they had used an aftermarket one. I had complained to Hyundai (using their customer care page) to waive off the ECM replacement cost as it is a part that failed in many petrol i20s from 2010 - with no response at all. Since I had no time to explore alternative options, chose the ECM replacement from Hyundai ASS itself.

One month after ECU replacement, I again had similar feeling of car shutting down at idle speeds (turning steering quickly at standstill/reversing) - The MID was flickering like crazy when this happened. Got battery checked again and it was found functioning properly. Took it again to the Popular Pattom service center and got the MID replaced. This seems to have fixed the issue and I am yet to encounter the stalling problem at idle speeds again. Also this time got the genuine fog lamp installed which cost me INR 580/-.

The car seems to be becoming less reliable after 9 years and 1,36000 KM. Wondering whether I should replace it or keep going for a few more years with it.

[sidpunjabi]

Originally Posted by TT-S

The car seems to be becoming less reliable after 9 years and 1,36000 KM. Wondering whether I should replace it or keep going for a few more years with it.

Did you get the Fuel Injector checked? I think this idling issue is a problem with many Hyundai cars. I recall a similar problem which my friend faced with his Santro. It turned out to be an issue with the car's fuel injector.

[kalpeshc]

Originally Posted by TT-S

The car seems to be becoming less reliable after 9 years and 1,36000 KM. Wondering whether I should replace it or keep going for a few more years with it.

I too own a 2010 petrol i20 and I have to confess, I too faced issues with the ECU. The ECU definitely has an issue as it's not covered and the dampness/humidity accumulates inside and corrodes the pin joints. Some of my pins had broken off when diagnosed and I had to replace it with an aftermarket connector and had the ECU also repaired aftermarket once. I still face issues with the same in form of a current leakage that the service center cannot diagnose at all. Their only solution is replacement of the ECU which is around 40K (which I don't think is worth it in a 10 year old car at all). I am somehow managing to survive with it by disconnecting the battery when the car is unused for more than 2 days. It's not something that I'm happy doing but am extending the life of the car as there's no other mechanical problem with the car at all except the niggles that one face after all these years.

[TT-S]

Originally Posted by sidpunjabi

Did you get the Fuel Injector checked?

The service guys say they have checked it (although I am not sure if they are just bluffing). In fact, I have a different engine note between 1700 and 2000 rpm but there is no loss of power/torque or fuel economy due this observed. Could be because of injectors. After service, this sound goes away but come back after driving around 2000 KM. There are no vibrations either - just a different throaty sound. Maybe one of the injectors is getting clogged?

Is it possible to clean injectors by adding some fuel additive?

Originally Posted by kalpeshc

I too own a 2010 petrol i20 ...

Kalpeshc, I went through many of the i20 ECM threads on the forum when the issue struck me, including yours to gather some idea on the problem. Since the car is otherwise sound mechanically and I really don't need another car, I was keen on just keeping it for some more time. Buying a new car would mean more money outflow and a preowned one would become another reliability risk - Since there are many flood affected examples on sale after the recent flood here in Kerala.

In resale value terms the 9+ year/1.3Lac KM old car wont have much value, but to have the same utility in reliable way, I will have to spend some serious money. Hence decided to repair the ECM and continue using it.

[sidpunjabi]

Originally Posted by TT-S

The service guys say they have checked it (although I am not sure if they are just bluffing). In fact, I have a different engine note between 1700 and 2000 rpm but there is no loss of power/torque or fuel economy due this observed. Could be because of injectors. After service, this sound goes away but come back after driving around 2000 KM. There are no vibrations either - just a different throaty sound. Maybe one of the injectors is getting clogged?

Is it possible to clean injectors by adding some fuel additive?

If you're saying that there's no loss in power or economy, then, as per my understanding, the Fuel Injector is doing it's job well and there's no problem there.

Originally Posted by TT-S

I have a different engine note between 1700 and 2000 rpm ........ There are no vibrations either - just a different throaty sound.

My i20 did exactly this when I upgraded my stock air filter to a K&N. If you haven't upgraded, then check with the service guys if they tweaked / altered the air intake part of the engine in anyway. Given the high mileage on your car, even a simple cleaning of the air-inlet pipe, in addition to a filter change, could have the effect you described.

[Jag4]

Has anybody else experienced chrome peeling off from the gearknob in the Diesel Variants ?

If yes, is there a way to repair it ? I haven't found any workarounds other than replacing the knob entirely.

Allso on that note, does anyone have any idea on how to remove the gearknob in the diesel variants ?

[TT-S]

Originally Posted by Jag4

Has anybody else experienced chrome peeling off from the gearknob

Yes, my 2010 petrol asta had this problem after 7 years of use. The chrome on top of gear knob was very much scratched that it caused a cut in my left palm. Apparently Hyundai charges approximately rs 800 for the knob but they would never have it in stock. Sensing that an oem knob would be difficult to get, I got a black rubber cover for the knob from Amazon, which conceals the chrome knob entirely.

[Pancham]

Originally Posted by Jag4

Has anybody else experienced chrome peeling off from the gearknob in the Diesel Variants ?

If yes, is there a way to repair it ? I haven't found any workarounds other than replacing the knob entirely.

Allso on that note, does anyone have any idea on how to remove the gearknob in the diesel variants ?

Mine too. Chose to live with it.

My 2011 i20 Asta (Petrol) currently has the following issues:

1. AC not working properly for the past 1.5 years. Every time I get the gas refilled it works fine for 6-8 months, then it packs up again.

2. Rear defogger switched is not turning off till you switch off the car

3. The beading on the roof is coming off. Will get this checked at HASS. No form of adhesive is working.

4. Steering mounted controls are erratic sometimes.

Apart from these the car is doing pretty well at ~ 64K Kms.

I wanted to change the shocks to something firm recently. Lately, the ride has gotten really bumpy but the idea of changing the car in about a year keeps me in 2 minds before spending big money on the car.

[Jag4]

Originally Posted by Jag4

Has anybody else experienced chrome peeling off from the gearknob in the Diesel Variants ?

If yes, is there a way to repair it ? I haven't found any workarounds other than replacing the knob entirely.

Allso on that note, does anyone have any idea on how to remove the gearknob in the diesel variants ?

Follow-up:

A rubber cover doesn't exist for the gearknob of the diesel variants.

The only solution to the chrome peeling off is the replacement of the gearknob.

The one for the higher variants with chrome costs rs. 1275/- and wasn't available in Delhi, so I opted for the knob from lower variants which costs only Rs 208/-. At least it saves me the trouble of getting my hand cut from the chrome chipping.

Part No. : 437111J3209P
Can be ordered online at : https://boodmo.com/catalog/part-gear_knob-8254409/


Removal and Installation :

The old gearknob isn't like the one present in the Verna or the Creta which are of the Screw-on type.

Since there was little information on the internet I opted to get it done at a nearby ASC.

It takes two people and two screwdrivers to remove the gearknob by pushing the gearknob upwards from either side. It took them a good 10-15 minutes of fiddling to figure that out.
The new gearknob was then stuck on top of the mount and then soft hammered into place using a mallet.

Originally Posted by Pancham

Mine too. Chose to live with it.

My 2011 i20 Asta (Petrol) currently has the following issues:

1. AC not working properly for the past 1.5 years. Every time I get the gas refilled it works fine for 6-8 months, then it packs up again.

2. Rear defogger switched is not turning off till you switch off the car

3. The beading on the roof is coming off. Will get this checked at HASS. No form of adhesive is working.

4. Steering mounted controls are erratic sometimes.

Apart from these the car is doing pretty well at ~ 64K Kms.

I wanted to change the shocks to something firm recently. Lately, the ride has gotten really bumpy but the idea of changing the car in about a year keeps me in 2 minds before spending big money on the car.

1. There is a small unit (forgot the exact term used for it, looks like a small radiator) present behind the dashboard which causes this issue, I got it
fixed at an FNG for 4-5K. All my recent Hyundai vehicles have had this issue at nearly 45k kms or 3 years old.

4. Even my steering controls are erratic sometimes so I guess its a manufacturing issue.
Costs around 800/- per side if you want to get them replaced.

[sidpunjabi]

Originally Posted by Jag4

Has anybody else experienced chrome peeling off from the gearknob in the Diesel Variants ?

If yes, is there a way to repair it ? I haven't found any workarounds other than replacing the knob entirely.

Originally Posted by TT-S

Yes, my 2010 petrol asta had this problem after 7 years of use. Apparently Hyundai charges approximately rs 800 for the knob but they would never have it in stock.

Originally Posted by Pancham

Mine too. Chose to live with it.

I had the same issue as well a couple of years ago. I just bought a replacement from AliExpress.


Here's the link: Ali Express Gear Knob

It's a perfect fit and I haven't faced any issue yet. With many of the 5-speed (5+R) / 6-speed (6 + R-switch) knobs being similar / same across various Hyundai / Kia cars sold in India and China - the quality is quite good and the design is indistinguishable from the OEM knob. The only downside here is the 2-3 week shipping time.

[SuperSuri]

Originally Posted by Pancham

Mine too. Chose to live with it.

My 2011 i20 Asta (Petrol) currently has the following issues:

1. AC not working properly for the past 1.5 years. Every time I get the gas refilled it works fine for 6-8 months, then it packs up again.

2. Rear defogger switched is not turning off till you switch off the car

3. The beading on the roof is coming off. Will get this checked at HASS. No form of adhesive is working.

4. Steering mounted controls are erratic sometimes.

Apart from these the car is doing pretty well at ~ 64K Kms.

I wanted to change the shocks to something firm recently. Lately, the ride has gotten really bumpy but the idea of changing the car in about a year keeps me in 2 minds before spending big money on the car.

Hello Pancham,

You may try the following:

1. Replace the Cooling Coil. It develops leak due to dust particles and moisture as its nearly impossible to service it without removing the complete dashboard, also after the replacement, clean your cabin air filter regularly.
2. Get it checked by the ASS or a FNG Car Electrician. The connection pins might have deposits of carbon. The electrician can clean the carbon deposits depending on the condition of the switch, or may advise to replace it completely.
3. Can be done by ASS or a competent roof wrap guy.
4. Get the clockspring checked. If that’s fine, then the replacement of switches is the only way out.

BTW, I drive a 2014 Igen i20 Asta CRDI.
Happy motoring.

[Pancham]

Originally Posted by SuperSuri

Hello Pancham,

Hi Suri

Great advice. I have got the roof beading changed at HASS. They charged me around INR 500 for a new one.

A new problem has cropped up. The wiper motor is about to die. Symptoms: When I use the jet spray to clean the windscreen, the wiper is supposed to swipe 3 times. Now it swipes only 2.5 times. I have to pull the wiper stalk down to manually adjust it. HASS checked and opened up the area just above the engine bay to inspect. The place had 9 years of old leaves and mud accumulated. Requested them to clean it up and they charged me a cool ~600 bucks for that.

They said they need to replace the entire motor. Cost?
19K. Yes. 19K for the wiper motor. I thanked them and left. Planning to take it to a good FNG but not finding time.

I did a 600Km round trip this weekend and the car performed wonderfully. It just suits my needs perfectly. Has adequate power and is more than moderately stable in the highways. Overall, the car has held up well for the past 9 years.

Current ODO reading: 64621 Kms

[SuperSuri]

Originally Posted by Pancham

Hi Suri

Great advice. I have got the roof beading changed at HASS. They charged me around INR 500 for a new one.

A new problem has cropped up. The wiper motor is about to die. Symptoms: When I use the jet spray to clean the windscreen, the wiper is supposed to swipe 3 times. Now it swipes only 2.5 times. I have to pull the wiper stalk down to manually adjust it. HASS checked and opened up the area just above the engine bay to inspect. The place had 9 years of old leaves and mud accumulated. Requested them to clean it up and they charged me a cool ~600 bucks for that.

They said they need to replace the entire motor. Cost?
19K. Yes. 19K for the wiper motor. I thanked them and left. Planning to take it to a good FNG but not finding time.

I did a 600Km round trip this weekend and the car performed wonderfully. It just suits my needs perfectly. Has adequate power and is more than moderately stable in the highways. Overall, the car has held up well for the past 9 years.

Current ODO reading: 64621 Kms

Hi Pancham,

I clean that area once every 6 months. You can do it yourself if you have the tools to open the wipers. The plastic cover can be removed easily after that. Otherwise the leaves and dust could cause rusting. Regarding the wiper motor., find out a Hyundai MOBIS parts dealer near you. Ie of my sources and he said it could be priced around 9k for the motor only.

Regards

[girimajiananth]

hi,

I am posting this on behalf of my friend who owns an i20, sportz 2015 model. The car is sparingly used and has hardly done 25,000 KM. Recently, the clutch became very hard and the car refused to move. It was transported on a flatbed to the nearest HASS in Bangalore. The service advisor recommended replacing the clutch plate and gave and an estimate of 20,000 Rs including labour. Would it cost so much? Please advise.

[TT-S]

Originally Posted by girimajiananth

The service advisor recommended replacing the clutch plate and gave and an estimate of 20,000 Rs including labour. Would it cost so much?

Sorry for the late reply.


I had recently given my car for service at 1.36 lac km, during which the clutch was also replaced, since it was getting too hard and causing pain on my left leg. Apart from the clutch release bearing and related parts, They also had to change the clutch release shaft (I guess it broke when disassembling and was rusted), clutch master cylinder (clutch action was sticky) and gear cable (was loose causing excessive play) during the service. Also changed the brake discs (cannot be further put under a lathe to rectify juddering, and had gone thin/unsafe) and brake pads.


Total bill came to 41K INR including service, labor, consumables etc. Out of these the clutch work itself cost around 20K if I recollect correctly. I shall verify the same from the bills (need to find them). This work was done around October 2019.