[Alvord12]

Originally Posted by JoshuaS

Ok, then it isn't so bad. I thought I've been driving really bad. On a recent trip from Mumbai to Pune, I got nearly 14 kmpl with both city and highway driving.

Let's hope that after the first oil change, things start looking up

I do the Mumbai - Pune trip weekly, and I'd recommend sticking to 80 Kmph / 2000 - 2500 RPM as this is the range where the engine seems to give the maximum mileage. With the Air-Con turned off I managed to squeeze almost 22.5 Kmpl (that's no typo! ) on my 160 KM trip with just me behind the wheel.

Mileage seems to drop when you have 2 or more people with you. The maximum I could manage with 3 people was around 18 Kmpl (with AC) and around 16 Kmpl (with AC) with a fully loaded vehicle (5 people + luggage).

Rev the engine beyond 3000 RPM, and the car starts guzzling Petrol. On my first spirited trip to Pune I drove mostly at 120 Kmph and was shocked to see just an average of 13.3 Kmpl!

Driving sedately and with a light foot is the best way to get good mileage with the i20.

[jdr]

I've had the 2012 iGen i20 1.4 U2 CRDi since Jan 2014 and have done about 11000 kms, most of it in the city (Pune).
I started out with a mileage of 13 kmpl which I thought was awfully low, but it picked up little by little, but it wouldn't go beyond 14.5 kmpl, which was still very low. After the first main service (I did that at 8500 kms) mileage picked up a tiny bit to 15, possibly because of oil change.
Then two things happened. 1) Brace yourselves. Winter is coming (see what I did there?) 2) I changed my driving style to a more sedate one - slower, smoother acceleration and driving in higher speeds at lower gears (but doing that in 2nd gear sucks).
With winter on the way since November (although it's very hot these days for some reason), air con usage has reduced.
With these 2 changes, the last tank gave me a range of 670 kms in 39.48 liters, and reserve light was still not turned on, which meant a mileage in excess of 17 kmpl, that too in Pune!
I am thinking I should manage to get an annual average mileage of 16 kmpl with this driving style, which is pretty good.

I hope this is the right thread for a brief ownership review.
After an year of ownership, I am overall very happy with the diesel i20. However, there are a few issues that concern me:
1. The suspension (especially the rear ones) make thuding noise every time I go over a bump, even if I am going VERY slow.
I think the new i20 elite has solved this problem using stiffer springs. I will get the suspension changed once warranty is out, if possible. Any suggestion on getting the i20 elite suspension/springs into my iGen i20?
Also, the overall suspension setup makes the car jumpy, and extremely scary at higher speeds on turns. Stiffer springs and softer compound tyres should reduce that problem.
2. The 2nd gear ratio is very off. The turbo lag in 2nd gear is massive, and in city driving conditions, very cumbersome in overtaking (and not letting idiotic bikers get in the way)
Also, the speed at which I need and get to drive in the city is mostly in that small band between the 2nd and 3rd gears which means I'm constantly shifting between those gears, which too is very unwieldy.
I'm hoping an ECU remap to widen the torque band should help reduce these problems. Might also get some extra mileage out of the remap.
3. There are huge blind spots both front and back, and entire bikes disappear into those gigantic A pillars. Unfortunately, there's nothing I can do about it (that I know of that is also safe)
4. I suspect some problem with my particular engine, but it makes a weird clanking noise that is different from a cold diesel engine's clatter. It's very disturbing, but I wasn't able to reproduce the problem at the service center. Seems my car behaves very well when I need to get it inspected...
Anyone had that problem?
5. And finally, the oft-beaten point about the lack of DTE and mileage indicators rankles.

[jdr]

I realized today that the rear AC vents under the front seats don't work. Are they broken or were never a feature on the 1.4 CRDi Sportz?
Also, any way to get them functional?

[rishie]

Originally Posted by jdr

I realized today that the rear AC vents under the front seats don't work. Are they broken or were never a feature on the 1.4 CRDi Sportz?
Also, any way to get them functional?

Not sure about Sportz, but in 2011 Asta, they work only if the fan control is put to down (towards legs).

[sabsubs]

Originally Posted by jdr

4. I suspect some problem with my particular engine, but it makes a weird clanking noise that is different from a cold diesel engine's clatter. It's very disturbing, but I wasn't able to reproduce the problem at the service center. Seems my car behaves very well when I need to get it inspected...
Anyone had that problem?

Hi, even I am having the aforementioned problem in my car too. I own an i20 sportz crdi. My car is almost one year old. I noticed this problem few months back. I hear a knocking sound but I am not sure from where it emanates. Initially I thought that it is from the engine so I took it to the service centre but could not reproduce it. After few days the knocking sound stopped. For the past couple of months I am hearing the sound again.

I get to hear the sound when the Turbo kicks in. Yesterday I went for a long drive and I could hear the sound but while returning from my journey the knocking sound had stopped. It is bit weird. Today I took my car for it's second free service and reported the issue. But again could not reproduce the knocking sound. Along with the technician, we went for a very long test drive for about 100 Kms but no luck again. I am suspecting that the issue could be in Turbo because the knocking can be heard when the Rpm is around 1700 to 1800, that's range when Turbo kicks in. Could you please check whether you are hearing the sound within the Rpm range that I have motioned?

I searched our forum and found few members reporting similar kind of issue. One such issue got resolved after changing oil filter and resetting ECU. I'll drive my car for for another 200 Kms and check if it resurfaces. As you told, the sound is very irritating. At times I have felt a drop in pull when the knocking sound starts. I'll drive for few more days and let you know if the problem resurfaces.

[DasAuto]

Folks, need some guidance on a particular issue that I've been facing of late. I have a April 2014 i20(1.2 P) Asta. Recently I've noticed that some times at low speeds the gear shifter gets stuck -
- 1st to 2nd gear --> happens some times & I thought I need to improve my driving habits (Yes I'm pretty much a newbie driver), now I do not rush into gear changes, shift gears gently & I think it's helped.
- 2nd to 3rd gear --> of late while up-shifting from 2nd to 3rd I often experience a violent jerk (as f the car is being thrown forward), I try to up-shift only 1500+RPM in 2nd gear or as suggest by the gear shift indicator, but even then I've experienced this.
I'm trying to avid this by up-shifting to 3rd gear only when the speed is around 31 - 32 km/hr

Just wanted some advice on whether it's on account of my driving style (up-shifting at too low a speed) or should I also pay a visit to the A.S.S to have the car checked out.
Also, is it possible that I may've damaged the car (clutch) on account of accidentally up-shifting at a low speed ?

[Jag4]

Folks! Need some urgent help here, I drive a May 2012 Sportz Diesel, just completed 30,000 kms and sent the car for service. The clutch felt ever so slightly hard before the service. The SA advised a clutch overhaul but I decided against it because I am a careful driver and don't ride the clutch.
I got back the car this evening and the clutch is an actual pain to use and considerably stiffer.
Could anybody here please point me to what may have went wrong and whether an actual replacement is required or any fix that may be possible ?
I searched around in the forums but didn't get a sufficient answer.

[rishie]

Originally Posted by Jag4

Folks! Need some urgent help here, I drive a May 2012 Sportz Diesel, just completed 30,000 kms and sent the car for service. The clutch felt ever so slightly hard before the service. The SA advised a clutch overhaul but I decided against it because I am a careful driver and don't ride the clutch.
I got back the car this evening and the clutch is an actual pain to use and considerably stiffer.
Could anybody here please point me to what may have went wrong and whether an actual replacement is required or any fix that may be possible ?
I searched around in the forums but didn't get a sufficient answer.

I have a 2011 Asta Diesel, when I gave for last service they have recommended a clutch overhaul and brakepad replacement for both front and rear. I denied both of them as I knew that clutch is going to last for another 15-20K kms easily, and brake pads were run only for 10K kms after last replacement. I even complained against the quality of the brakes as they are not even lasting 20K kms. Later I went in for a quick check up after 5000kms, I was told that brakes are good for another 5000kms, and I need not replace them until next service. I also doubted their recommendation about the clutch which was done along with the brake pads, as the clutch is still going on fine even after 8000kms. And I made a habit of telling them that if something is not broken, don't touch / replace it, unless they have a solid proof that its going to fail in the next 1000kms of running.

Regarding your clutch problem, first thing to do is get the brake fluid bleeding done (brake fluid is shared for hydraulic clutch as well, as per Service center), as I suspect bubbles might have popped in when they have refilled the fluid. It once happened to me, and getting the clutch bleeding done reduced the problem to a large extent.

[kalpeshc]

Before changing the clutch ask them to check the master slave cylinder. I faced similar issues and the slave cylinder was the culprit instead of the clutch

[abhi7887]

Hi All,
I have a quick question. I have a 2013 Sportz crdi. The horns are best not described. Is the horn from Polo a straight fit with the need of a relay and/or wire cuttings..??

Anybody knows how much those would cost..??

Thanks in advance!

[Jag4]

Originally Posted by abhi7887

Hi All,
I have a quick question. I have a 2013 Sportz crdi. The horns are best not described. Is the horn from Polo a straight fit with the need of a relay and/or wire cuttings..??

Anybody knows how much those would cost..??

Thanks in advance!

Hello, Horns are Plug and Play items so they are a straight fit.
You don't need a relay as the i20 already has dual horns which means there is a relay installed from the factory.

Cost would be anywhere ranging from 500-1300. Different Brands and thus qualities. Try to look for Hella and Roots.

If you are just looking for a louder/heavier tone, I can personally vouch for Hella Red Grills (approx Rs.1300) been using them since the last 5 years and using my second set now.

[nemesis86]

Hi All,

Not sure if this is the right place to post this.
Mods, please move it to the relevant thread if need be.

I went for my 1st paid service to Kothari hyundai (Pune) (27K) on Saturday with specific issues.

1. Irritating rattling from the rear
2. Vehicle restart when flashing the dipper (very concerned about this as it happened a couple of times on the expressway)

The sales agent was more concerned to push some 30K service to me which would cost 15K INR rather than working on the existing issues.

Two questions I need an advice on:

1. The vehicle restart:
While cruising at three digits on the highway, I flashed the pass lights and I felt a jerk as if I had downshifted. Didn't notice it the first time.
The second time it happened, I could see all the display lights flashing as if I had just started the car. The audio also restarting.
When I gave the car for service (which I did not want to as I had my previous service done @ 21K, but thought it would be better to get this sorted out), I clearly mentioned my worry to the service engineer and he looked like understanding it. I got the car back that day (the service guy telling me they could find nothing wrong) and didn't face the issue for one full day. Today while coming to office, it happened again.
Can someone tell me what the issue would be? I am totally clueless.

2. The 30K service:
I am told that a comprehensive service would be required at 30K which includes radiator flushing, engine decarbonization, AC check up, coolant replacement etc etc.
Can someone please throw some light on this and the approx cost to get this done and whether this all is required or just a trap from the service guy.

Also about the rattling issue, do you recommend to visit a roadside service center or the authorized one as they want me to keep my car there for one full week.

Thanks.

[arunphilip]

Originally Posted by nemesis86

1. The vehicle restart:
While cruising at three digits on the highway, I flashed the pass lights and I felt a jerk as if I had downshifted. Didn't notice it the first time.
The second time it happened, I could see all the display lights flashing as if I had just started the car. The audio also restarting.

A quick thing to eliminate will be to unplug and reseat the fuses & relays associated with the headlights, parking lights, etc. Your owner's manual should have a clear map of the fuse box and relay box that shows this. If you're not comfortable doing this, get an FNG to do this (and only this).

If this doesn't resolve the issue, then its best to stick to Hyundai (try another service center), or a good FNG if you're comfortable with trying them out.

Originally Posted by nemesis86

2. The 30K service:
I am told that a comprehensive service would be required at 30K which includes radiator flushing, engine decarbonization, AC check up, coolant replacement etc etc.
Can someone please throw some light on this and the approx cost to get this done and whether this all is required or just a trap from the service guy.

Please check your manual for what is covered in the 30k service - specifically whether it covers a radiator flush & coolant replacement, etc. Usually, every alternate service is a major one.

AC checkup can be skipped unless you have specific issues with your AC. The only exception is if the service adviser says they're going to change the cabin air filters - this will make a difference to the freshness and air-flow. If anything, you can get it checked up/topped up at a dedicated AC guy.

Engine decarb - not reqd at 30k, IMHO.

[nemesis86]

Originally Posted by arunphilip

A quick thing to eliminate will be to unplug and reseat the fuses & relays associated with the headlights, parking lights, etc. Your owner's manual should have a clear map of the fuse box and relay box that shows this. If you're not comfortable doing this, get an FNG to do this (and only this).

If this doesn't resolve the issue, then its best to stick to Hyundai (try another service center), or a good FNG if you're comfortable with trying them out.


Please check your manual for what is covered in the 30k service - specifically whether it covers a radiator flush & coolant replacement, etc. Usually, every alternate service is a major one.

AC checkup can be skipped unless you have specific issues with your AC. The only exception is if the service adviser says they're going to change the cabin air filters - this will make a difference to the freshness and air-flow. If anything, you can get it checked up/topped up at a dedicated AC guy.

Engine decarb - not reqd at 30k, IMHO.

Thanks a lot Arun. Will get both these checked over the weekend

[abhi7887]

Originally Posted by Jag4

Hello, Horns are Plug and Play items so they are a straight fit.

You don't need a relay as the i20 already has dual horns which means there is a relay installed from the factory.



Cost would be anywhere ranging from 500-1300. Different Brands and thus qualities. Try to look for Hella and Roots.



If you are just looking for a louder/heavier tone, I can personally vouch for Hella Red Grills (approx Rs.1300) been using them since the last 5 years and using my second set now.

Hi Jag4,

Thank you for your guidance.

A friend told me that Polo's unit from VW ASC would cost me a bomb. Is that true?

Also, that Hella Twin Tone is closest to Polo's stock horn. Have you had any experience with this version of Hella?

Thanks!