[venkyhere]

Originally Posted by audioholic

By theory, hot air rises up so that bottom opening does not play a role in exhausting the heat in the engine bay. When the car is stationary, engine heat rises upwards and escapes through the vents in the windshield cowl area. When the car moves or radiator fan switches on fresh air is drawn through the grill and warm air is forced out through the rear of the engine bay. It would rather reduce air turbulence and maybe some noise due to this. But the cover wouldn't affect heat management.

when the car moves, even without forced induction (radiator fan switching on), the bottom of the engine bay will 'suck away' hot air, because air is flowing fast underneath the car and the lower pressure of flowing air (even if its swirling in turbulence, hitting against all the obstacles in the underbody) will encourage the engine bay air to move downwards.

[audioholic]

Originally Posted by venkyhere

air is flowing fast underneath the car and the lower pressure of flowing air (even if its swirling in turbulence, hitting against all the obstacles in the underbody) will encourage the engine bay air to move downwards.

What about the same air which flows into the grille? I feel the pressure will be same and there is no pressure difference created. Correct me if I am wrong. When the car is moving the engine bay will have higher pressure naturally and that will force air out from the rear end of the engine bay which is still pretty open. The front portion is covered in most vehicles until the axle. Hence what Leoshashi or Maruti has done here is nothing new nor would have a negative impact.

[Leoshashi]

Originally Posted by Tpsdhiraj

I bought my Ertiga just before the lockdown in March and is the 1.5 Diesel variant. I am really interested in getting the engine guard installed on my Ertiga as well.

My only concern would be if the hardware would fit without too much of jugaad as I am not entirely sure if the subframe of the petrol Ertiga/XL6 matches to that of the 1.5 Diesel Ertiga.

Regards
Tps

Subframe etc are all same, installation won't be an issue. However I am not sure about oil drain holes, exhaust pipe etc lining up, like it did in my case.

Originally Posted by audioholic

Took a long time to read through the thread and it's already starting to become an encyclopedia for Ertiga/XL6 owners. Wonderful compilation of information. Have a great time with the car and hope you get to utilize for the fullest purpose.

Thanks Bro!

Originally Posted by DudeWithaFiat

I have a question: Now that the hot air trapped in the engine bay has one huge exit door less than the original design, would it any way affect how the engine warm up or heats up?

Originally Posted by venkyhere

can you please elaborate what is the original purpose of these floor covers for which MSIL made them ?

No idea, NVH may be.

Originally Posted by venkyhere

are you referring to the the gap behind the rear end of the plastic and the front subframe/bottom of the firewall, for the hot engine bay air to escape ?

Originally Posted by audioholic

By theory, hot air rises up so that bottom opening does not play a role in exhausting the heat in the engine bay. When the car is stationary, engine heat rises upwards and escapes through the vents in the windshield cowl area. When the car moves or radiator fan switches on fresh air is drawn through the grill and warm air is forced out through the rear of the engine bay. It would rather reduce air turbulence and maybe some noise due to this. But the cover wouldn't affect heat management.

I believe DBHPian Audioholic has explained it beautifully. There is enough place for air to escape from above the suspension subframe. Have a look at the gap in Dzire, it's similar in XL6. So there is absolutely no chance of air getting trapped.

Also if you notice closely, there are enough small drainage holes and small gaps in the cover at the bottom(marked in red), so even that will help in some dissipation. The cover is not sealed which can stop "air" from escaping.

Trust my research to be decently competent. I am not someone who will carry out a mod purely on instincts and thoughts. I plugged in SDT and did two runs with my mechanic(before and after) monitoring engine temperatures and radiator fan kicking in patterns/intervals, with car running and standing at one place, idling. There was absolutely no difference between the two.

Please point out if I missed anything.

Regards,
Shashi

[venkyhere]

Originally Posted by audioholic

What about the same air which flows into the grille? I feel the pressure will be same and there is no pressure difference created. Correct me if I am wrong. When the car is moving the engine bay will have higher pressure naturally and that will force air out from the rear end of the engine bay which is still pretty open. The front portion is covered in most vehicles until the axle. Hence what Leoshashi or Maruti has done here is nothing new nor would have a negative impact.

you are right, we are talking about the same thing.
Pressure in front of the grille > pressure within engine bay > pressure of moving air underneath car.
If you lookup a few posts above, I was asking confirmation whether the air exit rearwards-and-downwards from the engine bay (instead of both rearwards-and-downwards and straight-downwards) is what Leoshashi meant as "enough gaps".
The reason I replied to your post is only to make sure readers understand that the hot-air-exit from engine bay will take place even if radiator fan is not running (in fact, unless its a super hot day and engine is pulling super high loads, most of the time the radiator fan rarely switches on, on highways and most of those times, it's only when AC compressor kicks in)

Originally Posted by Leoshashi

Trust my research to be decently competent.

I was only confirming whether 'enough gaps' meant the space at the rear of the plastic sheet, didn't mean to question your research. Sorry for the misunderstanding that I may have caused

[Leoshashi]

Originally Posted by venkyhere

Sorry for the misunderstanding that I may have caused

Absolutely not! I love such discussions, and often I find valid points in others' perspective.

In fact this was one of the most commonly asked questions in my friends circle, and that gave me an idea to get the readings in SDT to be sure.

Regards,
Shashi

[MadTiger]

Originally Posted by Leoshashi

Trust my research to be decently competent. I am not someone who will carry out a mod purely on instincts and thoughts. I plugged in SDT and did two runs with my mechanic(before and after) monitoring engine temperatures and radiator fan kicking in patterns/intervals, with car running and standing at one place, idling. There was absolutely no difference between the two.

Please point out if I missed anything.

Regards,
Shashi

No intentional flattering here, but your selfless sharing of the mod you do and the thought process gone behind, is truly appreciated! This goes out without saying the meticulous research you do study the integrity its no less than a miniature R&D.

Ok enough of flattering can we have the next update on the wind deflector that puts bay to the 'jugad'

Cheers!

[twin_turbo]

Originally Posted by Leoshashi

I was wondering about the same thing during a long drive. Also there is this case of using a specific battery by Exide for the SHVS system to work.

Correct me if I am wrong here Leoshashi, the prices you got which adds up to 1L are after market sales price rite? I bet the price at which MSIL procures them from their suppliers are about 1/10th of that price. While i used to work for an auto company, after market spares were marked up 10 times for those spares which were not wear and tear items.

[Leoshashi]

Originally Posted by twin_turbo

Correct me if I am wrong here Leoshashi, the prices you got which adds up to 1L are after market sales price rite?

Yes, MRP of MGP spares.

Regards,
Shashi

[maheshm619]

Originally Posted by arindam.dino

Bonkers review, You sir have outdone yourself!
Could not find this on Amazon, can you give me a link? or locally sourced? Also about the interior lights too..

Hi,

The interior and number plate bulbs have mostly a T10 base.I would suggest below product in Amazon.

https://www.amazon.in/AUTOBAHN-T10-5...ustomerReviews

It comes with better output than Philips/Osram and provides 2 year warranty.Stock bulbs are most likely to be 5watts, so these would lessen the load on electricals by a tiny bit.

[arindam.dino]

Originally Posted by Leoshashi

After:

Attachment 2042929

Need your help on how to open the plastic back panel and access the number plate lights on my Ignis.

Originally Posted by maheshm619

I would suggest...

Thanks again man! However the lights are out of stock and the alternative I got is 300 Lumens, 9 SMD 2835. Also, it is claimed to be Can-Bus error free, does it mean no Hyper flashing then??

[maheshm619]

Originally Posted by arindam.dino

However the lights are out of stock and the alternative I got is 300 Lumens, 9 SMD 2835. Also, it is claimed to be Can-Bus error free, does it mean no Hyper flashing then??

Hi,
Autobahn has their own website and currently runs a 10% offer when I last checked.They have a customer care number.I suggest you call them and confirm availability before placing an order.And regarding hyper flashing, since these are not turn indicator bulbs and are used for continuous illumination, don't worry about hyper flashing.

[Leoshashi]

Originally Posted by arindam.dino

Need your help on how to open the plastic back panel and access the number plate lights on my Ignis.

You don't need to open the back panel. Simply hold the lens and twist it anti clockwise to open.

Regards,
Shashi

[arindam.dino]

Originally Posted by Leoshashi

twist it anti clockwise to open.

I apologise for bothering you again regarding something this simple but I'm probably doing something wrong I think, it seems nothing I do makes the cover of the light budge in anyway. Attaching a picture of the same..

[paragsachania]

Originally Posted by arindam.dino

Attachment 2051089

I apologise for bothering you again regarding something this simple but I'm probably doing something wrong I think, it seems nothing I do makes the cover of the light budge in anyway. Attaching a picture of the same..

Press that cap towards the inside a little and then twist and thay should do.

[Leoshashi]

Originally Posted by arindam.dino

Attachment 2051089

I apologise for bothering you again regarding something this simple but I'm probably doing something wrong I think, it seems nothing I do makes the cover of the light budge in anyway. Attaching a picture of the same..

Like DBHPian Parag said, press it inside and simultaneously twist the lens anticlockwise.

Even in my case it was pretty tight and wasn't budging easily. By the time I managed to open the first lens, my fingers were aching badly. For the second lens, I used a plier, with a microfiber cloth wrapped around the lens. Take care not to press the plier jaws, use it to gently grip the lens protrusions and then twisting becomes a lot easier.

Regards,
Shashi

PS: Meanwhile, a sneak peak into which DIY is keeping me busy: