[Guna]

Originally Posted by edges

Belated congrats on the ANHC-AT.


Can you please tell me where did you get your grill painted .

Thanks Edges.
I got thwe grill painted at Magnum itself and I remember, they tried to discourage me also.

[edges]

Thanks guna.

Can you tell me how much was the cost and which magnum service station did u get it from?

[Glifford]

Originally Posted by edges

Can you please tell me where did you get your grill painted because when i asked to do the same, after seeing yours in the pics, at magnum honda service station(kanakapura road) they refused to do it as they donot recommend it being plastic plus finish would not be original and other silly reasons.

If you are the DIY kinds and don't mind putting in some effort, you can easily do that yourself with just a can of Com-Paint.

You'll need to remove that grille, mask it off with masking tape, clean it and spray! Simpler than it sounds.

Plus they do have an extensive shade list for Honda.

Recently touched up and repainted the alloys on the Ford Fusion+ in a DIY project.

If you have the risk appetite, try it out! Will not cost you more than 300 bucks. Even if it fails, you can always wipe off the paint before it dries.

[Guna]

Originally Posted by Glifford

If you are the DIY kinds and don't mind putting in some effort, you can easily do that yourself with just a can of Com-Paint.

You'll need to remove that grille, mask it off with masking tape, clean it and spray! Simpler than it sounds.

Plus they do have an extensive shade list for Honda.

Recently touched up and repainted the alloys on the Ford Fusion+ in a DIY project.

If you have the risk appetite, try it out! Will not cost you more than 300 bucks. Even if it fails, you can always wipe off the paint before it dries.

Glifford, isn't it necessay to prepare the surface by making it a little coarse for the paint particles to stick? I thought, without this, the paint layer tends to drip down and also when it dries, it may tend to come off.

[Glifford]

Originally Posted by Guna

Glifford, isn't it necessay to prepare the surface by making it a little coarse for the paint particles to stick? I thought, without this, the paint layer tends to drip down and also when it dries, it may tend to come off.

True. The Com-Paint instructions refer to 1000 grit emery paper. I did that for the alloys.

For the Plastic Hub Caps. Didn't bother. Just sprayed it on. Will see if it peels off eventually. Then I can redo them (that's one advantage of DIY).

[edges]

Thanks guna and glifford.

glifford-thats an amazing piece of DIY work you did to your alloys.but do you it will be the same kind of pre paint work for the plastic in the grill as you had done for your alloys.it is sure to peel of within a short span of time on the plastic.

request everyone to give their opinions on the same and suggest a method to spray on top of the existing paint.

[Guna]

Originally Posted by edges

Thanks guna and glifford.

glifford-thats an amazing piece of DIY work you did to your alloys.but do you it will be the same kind of pre paint work for the plastic in the grill as you had done for your alloys.it is sure to peel of within a short span of time on the plastic.

request everyone to give their opinions on the same and suggest a method to spray on top of the existing paint.

you need to prepare the surface by making it a little rough, paint it with a primer/putty, polish it with fine sandpaper to make it very smooth and then paint it with the actual paint. It should not peel off. You need to let the surface dry after every coat, so that there are no blisters appearing.

[Glifford]

Originally Posted by edges

glifford-thats an amazing piece of DIY work you did to your alloys.but do you it will be the same kind of pre paint work for the plastic in the grill as you had done for your alloys.it is sure to peel of within a short span of time on the plastic.

Thanks Edges!

I am no sure of the peeling part. If and when it does, I will report That's one advantage of DIY. Doesn't hurt as much if it fails, neither does it cost as much to fix.

If using com-paint, some surface preparation using 1000 grit waterproof emery paper would be fine. Putty would be needed only if you have to fill in cracks or deep scratches.

But then again yours is a brand new car. Something you would want less to experiment upon . You can do that without much bother on a used car!

[edges]

I have already ordered the com paint for my city online as the stock of this color was not available.

On asking the dealer on how to paint, he said i could paint directly on the painted surface without rubbing emery/sand paper/putty,etc

Is it the right method?

[Glifford]

Originally Posted by edges

I have already ordered the com paint for my city online as the stock of this color was not available.

On asking the dealer on how to paint, he said i could paint directly on the painted surface without rubbing emery/sand paper/putty,etc

Is it the right method?

Emery/Sand paper is essentially the same and does the same function. To roughen the surface. Emery is superior and hence is available in fine grit numbers. You cannot get 1000 grit sand paper. You also get emery papers in water proof kind.

Using a little of the 1000 grit emery paper on the areas you wanna paint will roughen the surface and take off the gloss, hence will ensure that the new coat doesn't peel off.

Puttying will only be needed if there are deep scratches/dents that need filling, not otherwise. Covering the entire uniform surface with putty uniformly requires a lot of skill, looks shabby otherwise.

IMHO, don't try emerying it even. Just spray and clean with Com-Merge (to remove dirt and solvents).

Advantage being, if you don't like the finish, you can always just remove it and get back to original!

[Guna]

It has been a year and the 20,000 km service was carried out (19700 kms on the oddo)

Service included

• Engine oil & filter change
• Air filter change
• AC filter change
• Washer top up
• Injector cleaning
• Brake cleaning

I had complained about:

• Outside smell coming in even in recirculation mode: Has been taken care of with the new pollen filter
• Smell coming during hard accelaration: Not been addressed, probably it is too subtle for them to notice
• Rubber beading coming off the rear door: fixed

Cost of the service: Rs. 4310

Overall the car has only become smoother, suspenion feels more absorbent and the car absolutely effortless to drive in the traffic. There is no hint of a rattle after driving for close to 20k on all kind of roads.


Things not happy about:

• Low GC, need to be really slow over humps
• Electronic power steering: I have still not got used to the 'artificial feel'.
• Relatively low FE of around 9-9.5 kmpl (has gone to 8.5 on couple of occassions)

[StarVegabond]

Originally Posted by Guna

Things not happy about:

• Low GC, need to be really slow over humps
• Electronic power steering: I have still not got used to the 'artificial feel'.
• Relatively low FE of around 9-9.5 kmpl (has gone to 8.5 on couple of occassions)

I can recognize with the first point there. It is more felt in Bangalore due to humps.

i do not find the last point in my 1.5 SMT, i am still getting ~14 KMPL.

I am not feeling the artificial feel of EPS. may be i am not so sensitive to differentiate EPS and HPS.

[trrk]

Hi,

Originally Posted by Guna

Cost of the service: Rs. 4310

Synthetic oil?

Can we have the break up, please?

[B103]

Originally Posted by Guna

Things not happy about:

• Low GC, need to be really slow over humps
• Electronic power steering: I have still not got used to the 'artificial feel'.
• Relatively low FE of around 9-9.5 kmpl (has gone to 8.5 on couple of occassions)

I switched recently from Hyundai Getz to ANHC. After 2 weeks of driving, still not feeling easy with the relatively heavier power steering in ANHC. I'm now wondering which is optimum -- steering wheel in Getz was too light or heavier than usual in ANHC

[Guna]

Originally Posted by trrk

Synthetic oil?

Can we have the break up, please?

No, since they insist on oil change every 5000k, I opted for the normal oil.

Here is the break up:
Engine oil = 780
Filter for Air Conditioner = 431
Air Filter = 781
oil filter = 154
20000 Km service charge =1060
Injector cleaning =556
Air blower/condenser cleaning=250

I am wondering if it is a normal practice to charge extra for 'injector cleaning' when it is part of 20000km service.