[NPV]

Originally Posted by hgnishanth

1: I had tried my scanisk 32gb usb pen drive on the stock music system on one of the cars in dealership the songs were just skipping without playing.
May i know which brand and howany GB USB pendrive do other wagon r amt owners use in your wagon r stock music system?

Have been using a SanDisk 32GB Ultra Fit USB 3.0 drive in the stock music system of the WagonR VXI since last November - no issues so far, works fine.

See this post (Our 2016 Glistening Grey Maruti WagonR VXi - Waggy® meets Dizzy®) for more details.

[balajisv]

Originally Posted by jetsetgo08

I commute for 80kms(two-way) on weekdays through mix of highways and dense traffic, and the bad ride quality does result in fatigue at the end of the day. I honestly do feel a much comfortable and an even more fuel efficient car like Baleno/Swift diesel would have better suited my requirements.

Wagon R is such an old platform. You should have explored Tiago which offers supreme ride comfort, built quality, features and premium interiors in the segment.

[ashis89]

Originally Posted by jetsetgo08

Cons[*]Ride quality:- Stiff suspension setup coupled with body roll and floorboard vibration leads to an overall below average ride quality for our roads. Even the slightest of undulations on the road is passed on to the pedals, floorboard. I believe this is a characteristic in all the budget cars.

For the stiff suspension, lowering the air pressure helps a lot. For my car, which had the same OE tyres, the recommended pressure was 33. I kept it at 32 and it was better. I have upgraded the tyres to 165/65 Yokohama Earth 1 and I still maintain it at 30-32. The FE has been 14-15 kmpl within the city and not impacted by the pressure change.

[*]Poor low end torque:- coupled with a light but snappy clutch, will wear out the legs in extended driving in traffic. One will have to slip the clutch generously to avoid stalling. Due to this the clutch needs to be adjusted frequently, else the play in the clutch would reduce to nil.

Completely agree on the poor torque and slipping the clutch. However, my OE clutch is running since 56.5k kms, 70% of which would be city use. So far so good. It is still very light and smooth, though it feels about 10% heavier after prolonged use in B2B traffic. It hasn't been adjusted till date. Not sure how long it will last but my FNG said the clutch was in good condition.

[jetsetgo08]

Originally Posted by ashis89

For the stiff suspension, lowering the air pressure helps a lot. For my car, which had the same OE tyres, the recommended pressure was 33. I kept it at 32 and it was better.

I had taken a long test drive(vxi abs version) before I bought the vehicle, surprisingly the test drive vehicle had much better ride quality. I suspect if the suspension was stiffened in the newer models of the wagon r.

I have tried all combinations of the air pressure, lowered it down to 28 psi as well, but that did not help the ride quality either. It would be great if you drive my car sometime to feel if its a lot different from yours.

Originally Posted by balajisv

Wagon R is such an old platform. You should have explored Tiago which offers supreme ride comfort, built quality, features and premium interiors in the segment.

+1. Tried the petrol engine which felt gruff. Besides the Tiago XZ(only variant with ABS) was a little stretch for my tight budget, else I would have purchased the petrol Ignis Delta MT, one of the best choices for that price range.

[Rshrey22]

Hello Everyone,

I have some queries about my stingray.

Firstly the car judders(heavily) and clunks when 1st gear is engaged and clutch is released. By heavily I mean that this not your average car vibrating when shifting into first but it's more like 7.8 magnitude earthquake.

The car is primarily used by my Pa. I suspected that maybe the engine mounts are worn but he disagrees with me.

He took the car to our trusty mechanic who against my will, increased the idling speed to something above 1200-1300 rpm (not by computer).

Since then the judders have kinda lessened but the 'check engine' light has come on and refuses to go away.

Although the car has just covered 38,000 kms but all of them have been in heavy Delhi traffic.

I wonder if my diagnosis was correct? If not then please suggest some solution.

Regards.

[VinodDevil81]

Originally Posted by Rshrey22

Firstly the car judders(heavily) and clunks when 1st gear is engaged and clutch is released.
He took the car to our trusty mechanic who against my will, increased the idling speed to something above 1200-1300 rpm (not by computer).
Since then the judders have kinda lessened but the 'check engine' light has come on and refuses to go away.

I don't think that what your machanic has done is the correct workaround/solution to your problem.
It may cause more harm than good in the long run.

You should have asked him to inspect the clutch plates first.
A slipping clutch is more likely to give such shudders in first gear than anything else.
At 38k, the possibility of worn clutch plates cannot be entirely ruled out.

As per my understanding, increasing the idling rpm in a car with ECU requires the OBD tool to alter the ECU values, which is generally available at Company authorised service centres only.
It is normally not possible to increase the rpm by merely adjusting the screw at the throttle-body end, like they do in carburetted engines.
Upon the next restart of the car's engine,The ECU will change the other parameters accordingly to revert back to the original factory preset idiling rpm.
So to workaround this problem, your mechanic might have bypassed/tampered/deactivated one or more sensors at the intake end that provide input to the ECU about the idling parameters, and thereby got a permanent increase in idling rpm.
Most probably this tampering of sensor might be the reason for the Check Engine Light glowing.

This won't do any good to your car in the long run.
Also at such high idling rpms, there would be a mild grinding effect & noise everytime you engage gears.

Your fuel efficiency, engine wear & tear, everything will go for a toss if you stick to this setting.

Please consult an authorised MASS at the earliest and first revert the high idling-rpm back to normal.
Then let them diagnose the real reason for your shuddering issue.

[Rshrey22]

Originally Posted by VinodDevil81

This won't do any good to your car in the long run.
Also at such high idling rpms, there would be a mild grinding effect & noise everytime you engage gears.

Your fuel efficiency, engine wear & tear, everything will go for a toss if you stick to this setting.

Please consult an authorised MASS at the earliest and first revert the high idling-rpm back to normal.
Then let them diagnose the real reason for your shuddering issue.

Thanks Mr. Vinod for the word, but I feel rather than the clutch, it's the engine mounts that have gone bad ( it's a common problem with 3 cylinder engines).
Let's see though, I'll be taking the car to MASS tomorrow.

[VinodDevil81]

Originally Posted by Rshrey22

but I feel rather than the clutch, it's the engine mounts that have gone bad ( it's a common problem with 3 cylinder engines).
Let's see though, I'll be taking the car to MASS tomorrow.

May be you are right.
But can you tell on what basis that you are particularly sure it is the engine mounts itself?

I own a WagonR (2013 model) and was just sharing that viewpoint based on my experience with the car.
This shuddering was one of the first symptoms when my clutch plate got worn out and started slipping, and I eventually replaced the clutch assembly.

And regarding engine mounts going bad, I can't comment because I never faced such a problem within this 4.5 years of ownership.
There is one more wagonR of the same age in the neighbourhood, and that too never faced any engine mount issues so far.
So can't comment when you say it is a common issue with 3 cylinder engines, but yes, exceptions are possible in all cases.

[Rshrey22]

Originally Posted by VinodDevil81

May be you are right.
But can you tell on what basis that you are particularly sure it is the engine mounts itself?

That's simply because the clutch doesn't slip, works perfectly fine, and is regularly adjusted.

Never mind, took the car to MASS today they found the problem to be with the engine mounts.

The mounts were replaced and the tuning was done as the idling rpm were raised earlier.

The cars runs near perfect now. I am satisfied with it.... Now it can crawl in first gear easily without pressing the accelerator pedal. Earlier it used the judder very badly.

[ashis89]

The speedometer of my WagonR VXi stopped working after 6.5 yrs and 56.5k kms. It also triggered the CEL. Took it Sai Service, Hyderabad where the folks diagnosed a faulty speed sensor. It was promptly replaced and the car was returned within an hour.

Cost of Speed sensor: Rs.655
Labor charge: Rs. 423 (this is too high for a 30 min job)

Total bill was 1160 INR. After replacement, the CEL is off and speedo/ODO is working again.

[sumannandy]

Recently I have taken a 3000km drive in Wagon R AMT. It included a 30 hours non stop drive with power nap. I have taken the car in steep inclines of Darjeeling, broken roads with steep inclines of tea estates, driving inside the Jaldapara jungle by taking special permission, driving on dry rocky river bed to reach totapara near Bhutan border etc. Here is my assessment.

1. The AMT handles steep inclines very well. However it fails if the incline is over loose mud. In that case you have to drive in Manual 1st gear and it goes over the incline easily.
2. The AMT also handles steep downhill roads very well. There is some sort of engine braking that limits the speed while going downhill and for the most part of it, you do not need to press brakes. Pretty good implementation.
3. The AMT does not hunt for gears for the most part of it while going up through a steep incline.
4. The car handles rocky river bed, unpaved muddy jungle roads pretty well. Of course it was a slow driving.

Comfort factor is good. Adequate leg room Overall a good car for two people.

[pankajn1702]

Originally Posted by ashis89

I have installed an armrest in my car. It is tight fit but gets the work done.
Attachment 1702773

You can refer my post here:

http://www.team-bhp.com/forum/test-d...ml#post4203949

Please let me know if you have any queries.

I own a LXI CNG variant of the Wagon R (2016)
Does the armrest cause hindrance in using the handbrake?
Does the armrest have storage space?
Can it be moved up when not in use?

[ashis89]

Originally Posted by pankajn1702

I own a LXI CNG variant of the Wagon R (2016)
Does the armrest cause hindrance in using the handbrake?
Does the armrest have storage space?
Can it be moved up when not in use?

The arm rest does cause a slight hindrance in using the handbrake and inserting the seat belt buckle. It took me a few days only to get accustomed to the operating both of them. Today, I have no issues at all in operating it. My arm rest is always down and in use. I observed that my co-passenger is able to figure out the seatbelt after using it 2-3 times at max.

There is storage space in the armrest. It can hold a 500ml water bottle and some more. On long trips, I have used it to hold toll receipts and currency notes/coins. However, on a daily basis, I find the armrest too close to me and not very easy to open the lid. So I don't use it for regular items.

It can be folded/moved up when not in use. I use it at all times and hence, have never kept it folded.

Tip:
1. While installing, sit in the driver's seat to decide the ideal height and location to install it, especially operating the handbrake conveniently, before drilling the holes. For me, I engage all the gears while my hand is placed on this arm rest. It has been a boon in the city as well as highway.

2. During installation, you could add thin padding materials in contact areas of plastics which could creak/rattle in future.

[sairamboko]

My father owns a 2016 wagon r vxi manual variant and we both have driven it and abused it extensively because of my personal situation. Right now odo is going to touch 38,000 kms. Below are the issues/niggles and i am waiting for my personal situation to get closed and will get it extensively serviced.

1. There is a spring kind of sound from the rear wheel observed especially over speed breaker.
2. The clutch - it takes multiple tries to engage reverse properly.
3. handling & noise - surprisingly handling & noise is better with Shell petrol. If i fill IOC petrol, the engine noise is high and the rides are a bit jerky especially while gear shifts.

Should i check anything else while i give it for service, which will be mostly this month end or July 1st week? Any recommended engine oils?

[ashis89]

Originally Posted by sairamboko

My father owns a 2016 wagon r vxi manual variant...
1. There is a spring kind of sound from the rear wheel observed especially over speed breaker.
2. The clutch - it takes multiple tries to engage reverse properly.
3. handling & noise - surprisingly handling & noise is better with Shell petrol. If i fill IOC petrol, the engine noise is high and the rides are a bit jerky especially while gear shifts.

From my experience, I have noticed that the reverse gear is reluctant to slot in once in a while when the engine/GB is cold. I have been observing this since the odo had 14k kms and even today with 64k kms. The solution - re-clutch (leave the clutch and apply it again) or shift to some other gear and again come back to R. Always works for me without fail.

Regarding the fuel, I have never filled Shell as it is not available in my state. My regular pump is IOC one and I use the HP one as a backup. My observation, the quality of fuel is dependent on the pump station and not brand. Try switching to other IOC station and see if the issue persists.