[cataclysm]

Originally Posted by navin_v8

cataclysm mate that pressure is perfectly fine if you ride with a pillion. If riding solo then the correct pressure is 20 front and 30 rear.

Thanks mate! Since I ride solo mostly, I'll try the tyre pressure mentioned by you. Though the ride has been stiff since I experimented with 22 F 32 R.

[maker_of_things]

Originally Posted by navin_v8

cataclysm mate that pressure is perfectly fine if you ride with a pillion. If riding solo then the correct pressure is 20 front and 30 rear. I have always noticed if I go for 22 front and 32 rear the ride becomes more stiffer. Sometimes the tyre loses traction on those horrendous paver blocks donning the patchy city roads.


Mate as mentioned above the correct pressure while riding solo is 20 front and 30 rear. I believe if you keep the pressure low the tyre will wear faster.

As a practice I always check my tyre pressure once a month or whenever I go for tanking up.

Hey navin, I get my tyre pressure set every two weeks or so. 18 front and 28 rear seems to work fine for me. Been riding 3 years that way. They give a little more grip on wet and dirt surfaces. Stock tyres have been running with me for almost 25k kms. And by the looks of it, they could do at least 10k more before running bald.

Any how, I think it's better to have a little bit more grip at the expense of tyre life.

Cheers!.

[navin_v8]

Originally Posted by maker_of_things

Hey navin, I get my tyre pressure set every two weeks or so. 18 front and 28 rear seems to work fine for me. Been riding 3 years that way. They give a little more grip on wet and dirt surfaces. Stock tyres have been running with me for almost 25k kms. And by the looks of it, they could do at least 10k more before running bald.

Mate while -2 psi may sound less but I think in real life this can have serious consequences in the long term. An underinflated tyre generates a lot of heat which may cause a blow out. Underinflated tyre can result in:

• Imprecise cornering
• Reduce ability to support the load (traction)
• Higher running temperatures
• Irregular tread wear at the edge of the contact patch
• Fatigue cracking
• Overstressing and splitting in the sidewall
• Increased fuel consumption

Any how, I think it's better to have a little bit more grip at the expense of tyre life.

That is not at all true mate, especially when it comes to riding on zig zag and curvy roads. For straight roads maybe yes, but not for curvy roads or while making turns. In fact an underinflated tyre affects handling of the motorcycle wherein an underinflated rear tyre will cause the bike to over-steer (turn more sharply than anticipated), whereas cornering with an under-inflated front tire will cause the bike to under-steer (turn less sharply than anticipated).

Take a look at these source links which highlight the effects of an underinflated tyre:
http://www.dunloptyres.com.au/tips-a...orcycle-tyres/
http://www.totalmotorcycle.com/maint...ires-tyres.htm
http://www.ridemyown.com/articles/te...idestory.shtml
http://www.international-star-riders...5/article1.php

Ride Safe

[saargoga]

Originally Posted by maker_of_things

Hey navin, I get my tyre pressure set every two weeks or so. 18 front and 28 rear seems to work fine for me. Been riding 3 years that way. They give a little more grip on wet and dirt surfaces. Stock tyres have been running with me for almost 25k kms. And by the looks of it, they could do at least 10k more before running bald.

Any how, I think it's better to have a little bit more grip at the expense of tyre life.

Cheers!.

Not good to keep pressure less than mentioned, even if you are riding solo. 24/30 works for me. Do remember bullets are heavier so less air means more surface area on contact = more heat and also good chances of punctures.

Personally I have no issues about grips in all seasons, its stock qf MRF, It's might be a bit of driving style here too I don't do more than 30-40 I like smooth torque than higher rpms.

[jundi]

Checkout my motorcycle after I blacked-out the chrome.

[navin_v8]

Originally Posted by jundi

Checkout my motorcycle after I blacked-out the chrome.

Your RE Desert Storm looks cool, it would look way more cooler if you black out the engine and casing as well.

[maker_of_things]

Originally Posted by navin_v8

Mate while -2 psi may sound less but I think in real life this can have serious consequences in the long term.
=============
Ride Safe

Originally Posted by saargoga

Not good to keep pressure less than mentioned, even if you are riding solo. 24/30 works for me.
========
30-40 I like smooth torque than higher rpms.

I did not know that it could be that harmful. Thanks for the help!

Originally Posted by jundi

Checkout my motorcycle after I blacked-out the chrome.
Attachment 1437008

Attachment 1437009

Attachment 1437010

Black look nice on a Desert Storm. But as suggested by navin_v8, you should try painting the engine block black as well.

On another note, can you tell me which rear tyre are you using?

[jundi]

Originally Posted by maker_of_things

Black look nice on a Desert Storm. But as suggested by navin_v8, you should try painting the engine block black as well.

On another note, can you tell me which rear tyre are you using?

The only reason I didn't paint the engine block was because i didnt want to mess with the engines heat dissipating capabilities. Not to mention the logistical issue of taking the engine apart.

The rear tyre is Ralco Speedblaster.

[Nilay]

I am going to buy RE Desert storm or Continental GT. On paper there is 2 bhp of power difference and about 3 Nm of torque but what is the real world difference on road ?

Yesterday i test drove the classic 350 which has clocked 3300 km and some of the observations were as under
1. Reached to 100 kmph was effortless.
2. Vibration started after 70 kmph.
3. Low end and mid range was good.
4. There was a wobbled effect when ridding the bike with one handed/on uneven road surface otherwise it was stable.
5. A lot of noise/clatter was came from engine.
6. Front brake was very good.
7. Lot of improvements on fit and finish.

So with respect to above i have some questions

1. Is there any difference between 350 and 500/535 in vibration department ?
2. My AVL 350 had same wobbled effect which i observed with classic 350. Is there any permanent solution for that ?
3. Is there any solution to reduce clatter/mechanical noise from engine like cast iron one ?
4. Is there any performance upgrades available which can take the bike to 160 kmph ?
5. Is it bullet proof on reliability criteria ?

[maker_of_things]

Originally Posted by Nilay

I am going to buy RE Desert storm or Continental GT. On paper there is 2 bhp of power difference and about 3 Nm of torque but what is the real world difference on road ?

Yesterday i test drove the classic 350 which has clocked 3300 km and some of the observations were as under
1. Reached to 100 kmph was effortless.
2. Vibration started after 70 kmph.
3. Low end and mid range was good.
4. There was a wobbled effect when ridding the bike with one handed/on uneven road surface otherwise it was stable.
5. A lot of noise/clatter was came from engine.
6. Front brake was very good.
7. Lot of improvements on fit and finish.

So with respect to above i have some questions

1. Is there any difference between 350 and 500/535 in vibration department ?
2. My AVL 350 had same wobbled effect which i observed with classic 350. Is there any permanent solution for that ?
3. Is there any solution to reduce clatter/mechanical noise from engine like cast iron one ?
4. Is there any performance upgrades available which can take the bike to 160 kmph ?
5. Is it bullet proof on reliability criteria ?

Hi Nilay,

A continental GT is more free revving than the Classic 500 series. It revvs up to the redline more quicker than the Classic 500. Engine is more or less the same, apart from 535cc bored out displacement, and if I'm not wrong has a lighter piston and pushrod.

Your observations on the classic 350 are spot on. Though, the 500cc UCE engine is far better than its 350cc counterpart.

Coming to your queries:

1. I have no idea about a 350 at 70 kmph, but Classic 500/Continental GT feels relatively vibration free upto 90 kmph. Its tolerable upto 110. But the worst ones creep in post 110 kmph.

2. The wobble disappears at higher speed, like 80 kmph. Some members here have reported that changing the swingarm bust to a metal one (like in the older RE models) have helped with the wobbles.

3. I don't notice any clatter/mechanical noise from the engine. It's their on the 350cc UCEs, which is basically tappet noise. But I haven't heard a 500cc/535cc UCE with any clatter noise. It's also a matter of driving in the right gear sometimes. The sound from the engine at low speed and high gear is disturbing.

4. Yes, performance upgrades are available. For example, you can swap the stock ECU for a Race Dynamics one which improve the performance. Also, I've heard that for the 535cc Continental GT Hitchcock motorcycles from the UK supply a performance kit improves the performance. Brings up the power close to 40 horses. I don't know what state you'll be in at 160 kmph though because of the vibrations.

5. Reliability really comes down to you. On how you ride it and how well you maintain it. I have done 25000 kms without troubles. My friend did close to 80,000 on the same before he went for a Continental GT. Though be rest assured, you won't get the reliability of Jap bikes on this. They are not carefree bikes, so to say.

Hope this helps.

Cheers
Nikhil

[navin_v8]

Originally Posted by Nilay

1. Is there any difference between 350 and 500/535 in vibration department?

Mate from what I have observed is that the Standard 350 has lesser vibrations than the Classic 350/Tbird 350/Electra 350. That is because the Standard uses heavy crank that smoothens out the vibrations. You can feel it while idling.

Coming to 500/535. I have a Tbird500 and contrary to the belief it is somewhat more vibey compared to Classic 500 and Bullet 500. It is vibey at idling compared to 350's but smoothens out while riding. The vibrations reduce so much so in comparison to a 350 that one forgets he is riding a big single 500.

The 535 which dons the CGT is a bit vibey compared to the regular 500 as it uses a lighter crank.

2. My AVL 350 had same wobbled effect which i observed with classic 350. Is there any permanent solution for that?

Wobbling does happen once you cross 90-100 KMPH, this can be related to the fork alignment, front wheel balancing, etc. I too have a Tbird AVL 350, the front is so stable that I can leave my hands at even 70 KMPH, the wobbling happens once it crosses 90-100 KMPH. A stiffer suspension will solve the wobbling issue in my honest opinion.

3. Is there any solution to reduce clatter/mechanical noise from engine like cast iron one?

Mate the answer is No. The metallurgy and engineering of both the CI and UCE are different. Aluminium is a lighter metal compared to Cast Iron and will behave differently and sound different. From the day since RE introduced the first aluminium engine with AVL till the recent UCE there is no escape from the mechanical clatter caused by an aluminium engine. What I feel is that RE should have mounted the engine using rubber mounts to damper the vibrations caused due to mechanical clatter.

4. Is there any performance upgrades available which can take the bike to 160 kmph ?

There are tuners who have extracted 40-50 odd horses from the 500/535 engines. But to achieve this extensive modifications are required along with a sound mechanic to know what he is doing. These mods will cost a lot of money. For example performance parts like forged piston, bigger carb(Amal Concentric), performance air filter, light crank, drive gears with more teeth, and many more such parts will need to be changed. If you want to do 160 KMPH on a stock bike then look no further than the nuke Duke 390.

5. Is it bullet proof on reliability criteria ?

The answer is a resounding No. If you are a DIY'er then to an extent yes they are reliable but still not so reliable. If you benchmark it against the Japanese (I am not even bringing in Europeans as they too can't beat them Japanese) then it is not a fill it, shut it, forget it bike.

Originally Posted by maker_of_things

A continental GT is more free revving than the Classic 500 series. It revvs up to the redline more quicker than the Classic 500. Engine is more or less the same, apart from 535cc bored out displacement, and if I'm not wrong has a lighter piston and pushrod.

Mate if you mean lighter components by saying lighter piston and pushrod then I am not sure. I have never heard of a lighter piston and pushrod on an RE. The CGT does use some lighter components primary of which is the light crank and is highlighted as a feature as well. Apart from the crank it does uses some lighter components like the lighter and slimmer(fibre plastic) front and rear fender, alloy rims, flatter and lighter toolbox, etc.

Originally Posted by jundi

The only reason I didn't paint the engine block was because i didnt want to mess with the engines heat dissipating capabilities. Not to mention the logistical issue of taking the engine apart.

Mate there are heat resistant paints available in the market. Also RE engines are air cooled, meaning natural air flow keeps the engine cool. I think you can enquire with RE or some custom builders as to which black paint they use on Tbird series and some modified motorcycles. About the black paint messing the heat dissipation, it is just a myth. We have so many domestic and foreign manufacturers offering blacked out engine. Also remember the older CI's had their engine block painted black. Nevertheless your DS500 looks cool with a dash of chrome around blacked out parts.

[cataclysm]

Originally Posted by cataclysm

So I got the metal swingarm bushes. The bike has stopped wobbling between 50-60kmph, apart from that no change at all, still feels as planted as before.

Update on the metal Swingarm Bush

I did a 160km ride to Jalandhar in the morning and I must say the bike feels much more stable and planted now at higher speeds. Feels awesome to ride now and inspires confidence (apart from the lousy brakes). I really enjoyed the chilly morning ride. I should've replaced them long time back.

[maker_of_things]

Originally Posted by navin_v8

Mate if you mean lighter components by saying lighter piston and pushrod then I am not sure. I have never heard of a lighter piston and pushrod on an RE. The CGT does use some lighter components primary of which is the light crank and is highlighted as a feature as well. Apart from the crank it does uses some lighter components like the lighter and slimmer(fibre plastic) front and rear fender, alloy rims, flatter and lighter toolbox, etc.

I read somewhere that the GT has a lighter piston setup, about the time when the bike was launched. I'll try and find it and post the link once I do. Also, I believe the crank is the same as other 500cc REs, but the flywheel is lighter? I might be wrong on this though.

Originally Posted by cataclysm

Update on the metal Swingarm Bush

I did a 160km ride to Jalandhar in the morning and I must say the bike feels much more stable and planted now at higher speeds. Feels awesome to ride now and inspires confidence (apart from the lousy brakes). I really enjoyed the chilly morning ride. I should've replaced them long time back.

Ah. Thanks mate. I think I should get them replaced during the next service again. Last time I wasn't present during the servicing, so I don't know if they really did it or not. Even though they charged me for it.

[navin_v8]

Originally Posted by maker_of_things

Also, I believe the crank is the same as other 500cc REs, but the flywheel is lighter? I might be wrong on this though.

Mate the flywheel is indeed lighter on the CGT compared to other 500 RE's. It is been explicitly mentioned on their website. In a Bulleteer's parlance the crank/flywheel is the same by which they describe heavy crank and light crank. Technically the crank is not a flywheel but is called so by the Bulleteer's (as the local mechanics then didn't hear of the term fly wheel hence named it crank) over the years.

[cataclysm]

Originally Posted by maker_of_things

Ah. Thanks mate. I think I should get them replaced during the next service again. Last time I wasn't present during the servicing, so I don't know if they really did it or not. Even though they charged me for it.

When I got this done I didn't notice any change except that the wobbling between 50-60kmph stopped. Actually, today I really got to know the difference. I thought the bike was stable and planted at high speeds earlier, but today was a completely different experience. The suspension has become stiffer though, but I don't really mind as it suits me.

Did you get a chance to go for a longish ride on the highway after getting the bush changed? As mentioned above, I didn't really experience any change in the city, but highway was completely different.