The SAGA of Low_Bass_Makker

low_bass_makker · 4th August 2006, 22:11

Quote:

Originally Posted by Bass&Trouble

I use a product (that I can't name here). Costs about 400 bucks for a 500ml can. Does a brilliant job.

so why hide tell us so that all can profit from it.....except few who does not wanna try...lol

low_bass_makker · 5th August 2006, 17:27

what is the product name man u are suggesting.........

NIP · 5th August 2006, 18:03

not fair B&T...cmon...whats this product ?!

Bass&Trouble · 5th August 2006, 19:28

Quote:

Originally Posted by NIP

not fair B&T...cmon...whats this product ?!

Ha ha lol. No big secret guys.

http://www.gunk.com/item_details.asp?itemno=T1617R

Made in the US. Potent Stuff. Does it's job. Can't beat a good damping mat.

Some may argue that it's an undercoat spray not deadener, but the fact is, since it's a dense rubberized mixture, it goes a long way to remove vibration and resonances from metals/ plastics. Hence it's used as a engine/ road noise isolator, in addition to its corrosion prevention properties. So you can't expect it to absorb vibration caused by kilowatts of bass, but handy in tight corners where the sole idea is to take the natural resonance frequency, of the part concerned, higher. That is the idea of damping anyway!

navin · 6th August 2006, 21:46

adding mass usually lowers the resonant freq. and increases the ammount of energy stored (just ask B&W and Celestion) but this stuff works anwyay, just not becuase it added mass. It PROBABLY works becuase

a) involves using 2 materials that are well bonded but of same density
b) being just a bit elastic it absorbs resonances of the metal

low_bass_makker · 6th August 2006, 23:00

so navin ji will this rubber based solution will help in damping the door in tight corners where sheets cant go....

low_bass_makker · 7th August 2006, 00:53

KB sir here are a few pics of the same the tweeter is flush mounted into the a-pillar and the mid range is down low near the midbass. and the midbass is in the stock location. this is right now not in a correct position. and will be changing it soon as some suggestions pour in....also the damping of the door has to be done. PHEW a lot of work has still to be done.....but they are sounding great......

kb100 · 7th August 2006, 01:22

Get the mids up on the door LBM... around midway between the midbass and the tweeter- all in a line.. I read that is much better...

low_bass_makker · 7th August 2006, 01:42

ya man i wanted to do like that but i have two problem first the wire which i have to pass throught the door is a huge problem i am using AR wire and the gauge is 16 it is thick wire and is not passing through easily . also there is a connector which does not allow the wire to pass in the body throught which all the wire of the door are passing.To make 2 set of wires pass i would have to make a hole in the car body to let the wires pass through....

secondly the midrange is so big that i cannot flush mount it on the door i have to make it fit with the aluminium rings with which i am fit it right now...

also the main place from which i got infulenced (as these are not the final locations) and installed them in these location are....

these pics are from scott buwalda who won the isaca championship with these iridiums.....

http://www.buwaldahybrids.com/Project%20Altima.htm

kb100 · 7th August 2006, 02:01

Agreed... But see how flush Scotts install is... different and ROOMIER car too... I think careless passengers can play havoc with something that protrudes so much in the footwell of a Swift!!

low_bass_makker · 7th August 2006, 02:05

ya KB but i generally travel alone and that to local trips only no highways for that I have second car. Swift is my daily surfing car....And I do take lot of care when a new person sits in my car.......

kb100 · 7th August 2006, 02:11

then to fir okay... Still try out the other options and see if it sounds better... another spot being up on the A pillar next to your tweets... have seen that too in a lot of installs too... no harm in testing various positions out

low_bass_makker · 7th August 2006, 10:34

Quote:

Originally Posted by kb100

then to fir okay... Still try out the other options and see if it sounds better... another spot being up on the A pillar next to your tweets... have seen that too in a lot of installs too... no harm in testing various positions out

I also wanted that but sala midrange ka size is to big. the outside dia is 4.7 inch (120 mm ) it is to big to install on the dash the most practical place is the door where is can half depth flush mount it so that the window mirror does not coincide with the midrange. or there is a second option. to bring down the tweeter down to the midrange and make a kick panel on the each side acomodating the midrange and the tweeter. will try both of them before finalizing as both. and will be requiring the expert comments from the other people on this forum to help me decide........

Bass&Trouble · 7th August 2006, 17:22

Quote:

Originally Posted by navin

adding mass usually lowers the resonant freq. and increases the ammount of energy stored (just ask B&W and Celestion)

You're right about mass lowering the resonance frequency. What I meant to say was that the added stiffness, and increase in c/s thickness would take it higher, since mass addition would be lower relative to that. Yeah, but that's quite confusing, and debatable. But even to touch, the amount of vibration transmitted to the metal sections is greatly reduced.

Autophile · 7th August 2006, 20:33

LBM,

Nice work. With present midrange location it will sound better if you go active (using your H701) and also tilting the midrange will help a lot. Ideally install it in the door if you want to run passive.

5th August 2006, 17:27	#152
low_bass_makker Senior - BHPian Join Date: Mar 2006 Location: Faridabad Posts: 6,815 Thanked: 305 Times View My Garage	what is the product name man u are suggesting.........
	() Thanks

5th August 2006, 18:03	#153
NIP Senior - BHPian Join Date: Jun 2006 Location: Bangalore Posts: 1,180 Thanked: 152 Times View My Garage	not fair B&T...cmon...whats this product ?!
	() Thanks

6th August 2006, 21:46	#155
navin Team-BHP Support Join Date: Mar 2004 Location: Mumbai Posts: 25,199 Thanked: 9,308 Times	adding mass usually lowers the resonant freq. and increases the ammount of energy stored (just ask B&W and Celestion) but this stuff works anwyay, just not becuase it added mass. It PROBABLY works becuase a) involves using 2 materials that are well bonded but of same density b) being just a bit elastic it absorbs resonances of the metal
	() Thanks

6th August 2006, 23:00	#156
low_bass_makker Senior - BHPian Join Date: Mar 2006 Location: Faridabad Posts: 6,815 Thanked: 305 Times View My Garage	so navin ji will this rubber based solution will help in damping the door in tight corners where sheets cant go....
	() Thanks

7th August 2006, 00:53	#157
low_bass_makker Senior - BHPian Join Date: Mar 2006 Location: Faridabad Posts: 6,815 Thanked: 305 Times View My Garage	KB sir here are a few pics of the same the tweeter is flush mounted into the a-pillar and the mid range is down low near the midbass. and the midbass is in the stock location. this is right now not in a correct position. and will be changing it soon as some suggestions pour in....also the damping of the door has to be done. PHEW a lot of work has still to be done.....but they are sounding great...... Last edited by low_bass_makker : 7th August 2006 at 00:54.
	() Thanks

7th August 2006, 01:22	#158
kb100 Senior - BHPian Join Date: Feb 2006 Location: Bangy Boy! Posts: 1,555 Thanked: 21 Times	Get the mids up on the door LBM... around midway between the midbass and the tweeter- all in a line.. I read that is much better... Last edited by kb100 : 7th August 2006 at 01:28.
	() Thanks

7th August 2006, 01:42	#159
low_bass_makker Senior - BHPian Join Date: Mar 2006 Location: Faridabad Posts: 6,815 Thanked: 305 Times View My Garage	ya man i wanted to do like that but i have two problem first the wire which i have to pass throught the door is a huge problem i am using AR wire and the gauge is 16 it is thick wire and is not passing through easily . also there is a connector which does not allow the wire to pass in the body throught which all the wire of the door are passing.To make 2 set of wires pass i would have to make a hole in the car body to let the wires pass through.... secondly the midrange is so big that i cannot flush mount it on the door i have to make it fit with the aluminium rings with which i am fit it right now... also the main place from which i got infulenced (as these are not the final locations) and installed them in these location are.... these pics are from scott buwalda who won the isaca championship with these iridiums..... http://www.buwaldahybrids.com/Project%20Altima.htm Last edited by low_bass_makker : 7th August 2006 at 01:48.
	() Thanks

7th August 2006, 02:01	#160
kb100 Senior - BHPian Join Date: Feb 2006 Location: Bangy Boy! Posts: 1,555 Thanked: 21 Times	Agreed... But see how flush Scotts install is... different and ROOMIER car too... I think careless passengers can play havoc with something that protrudes so much in the footwell of a Swift!!
	() Thanks

7th August 2006, 02:05	#161
low_bass_makker Senior - BHPian Join Date: Mar 2006 Location: Faridabad Posts: 6,815 Thanked: 305 Times View My Garage	ya KB but i generally travel alone and that to local trips only no highways for that I have second car. Swift is my daily surfing car....And I do take lot of care when a new person sits in my car.......
	() Thanks

7th August 2006, 02:11	#162
kb100 Senior - BHPian Join Date: Feb 2006 Location: Bangy Boy! Posts: 1,555 Thanked: 21 Times	then to fir okay... Still try out the other options and see if it sounds better... another spot being up on the A pillar next to your tweets... have seen that too in a lot of installs too... no harm in testing various positions out Last edited by kb100 : 7th August 2006 at 02:12.
	() Thanks

7th August 2006, 20:33	#165
Autophile BHPian Join Date: Sep 2005 Location: New Delhi Posts: 931 Thanked: 4 Times	LBM, Nice work. With present midrange location it will sound better if you go active (using your H701) and also tilting the midrange will help a lot. Ideally install it in the door if you want to run passive. Last edited by Autophile : 7th August 2006 at 20:36.
	() Thanks