[Sudarshan]

Hello Aargee,

I dont mean the stud remover in the viedeo, I meant by Reverse tapping method . In your case those bolts will be sacrificed by this method , explained further.

1) In your case the bolt on the right is a Bleed skrew .It is hollow, one can slightly enlarge the hole by drilling & use a reverse tap type stud extracter.
2) the bolt on the left is a Benjo that holds the rubber pipe .this is also a hollow bolt . if you can cautiously remove the hex head by cutting , the pipe will be freed & the remaining portion can be taken out by the above method. ( a reverse tap )

you may not like this method but it works & I have done this successfully before.

Another thing, the way it looks rusted or stuck, be ready to sacrifice those bolts ,you will be lucky if you will be able to use them again.

If you are thinking to save those bolts ,I think you try to reshape the hex & try to fit a socket BUT It will be a long & labourous thing

I am worried about the Bleed skrew ( smaller one ) be carefull those break in such condition.

The WD 40 also will take a long time to penetrate & repeated applications But still may not work

Lastly have patience , a lot of it. things like this are real pains, one can get too much upset. I know this & fully understand as to what you are going through.

Anyways trying to sortout as much as possible

Yours Sudarshan

[omishra]

Originally Posted by aargee

As promised, here's the pic of the nut that I've been talking about quite a while now.

Can you please cleanup the area with Kerosene or petrol using old tooth brush?

The smaller one (on RHS) look like combination of bolt and nut. I mean sometime we use extra nut on the bolt to avoid self loosening. I haven't seen this particular part but it looks like same. I am just guessing here.

[aargee]

@Omishra - Kerosene/Petrol is what I remember was being used long back to remove this one by my prev mechanic. Its a single unit with the nut at the bottom, the top part you see has a hole to pump out airlock from oil tank to caliper. If I don't get a WD40, I'll do that, but let me give a try with WD40 for atleast once. Determined to finish one spray for this task

@Sudarshan - sir, like I told before, I need to get this job done without damaging the bolts. If the bolt is damaged, its extremely difficult to get one & requires changing the entire front disc brake assembly which is atleast 6K. So I'm little worried not to damage a single bolt or nut.

[Sudarshan]

Hello Aargee,

Is it possible to service this unit without loosening the benjo bolt ( larger )
please check. ( removing the wheel first then the unit , the unit will be hanged by the pipe only while you service it )
then you will only need to worry about the bleed skrew ( smaller )

Yours Sudarshan

[aargee]

Sudarshan sir, ok, I'll explain it, may you're aware of it, but you can probably give me a different thought.

Problem - The disc pads are jammed & have almost locked the disc causing the front wheel unable to move.

Solution - If the pads has to be released, the oil pressure or air lock that is in the master cylinder to hose to the calipers has to be released.

Standard approach - In the standard method, the first nut you see (the nut that we're talking about here) needs to be loosened little bit so that the pressure is decreased (removing completely will drain out the oil completely which we don't need). Now the brake lever has to be pumped (rather applied & released) so that the oil is draining & simultaneously the oil in the master cylinder has to be filled in. During this process, the air lock is also removed & the pads become free

Juggad work - This is the one I've followed now as I'm unable to carry out the standard approach. The second nut (actually a bolt) you see is the one I opened up causing little air to get in (in addition to existing) & there by releasing some oil which has caused decrease in oil pressure in the setup (master cylinder, hose & caliper). Due to this, the front brakes are not effective, which means, the front brake lever is like pulling a clutch lever & the braking is blunt.

Removing the disc assembly will add only more pains as I cannot get any grip to hold the caliper unit to use force & remove the standard nut.

Sorry about the OT

[Jaguar]

Originally Posted by aargee

@Omishra - Kerosene/Petrol is what I remember was being used long back to remove this one by my prev mechanic. Its a single unit with the nut at the bottom, the top part you see has a hole to pump out airlock from oil tank to caliper. If I don't get a WD40, I'll do that, but let me give a try with WD40 for atleast once. Determined to finish one spray for this task

Even if you don't get WD40, there are other similar products available. Check out the electronics shops near your area. I use a spray called Zorrik (Not sure of the name) and it does a good job of lubricating jammed bolts and stuff.

[sajjt]

Yes, the right side nut is the grease nut which is used for releasing the air bubbles from the cylinder and the left bolt is the brake fluid line connector bolt. I had the same experience some time back when I was about to fix the “ABS” from KRP. Being a hard core DIY fan, I fixed it myself and tried unscrew the grease nut to release the air bubbles but that ended up in a bad shape and took help from a tool work shop guy. He welded a small piece of iron rod onto the bolt in T shape and then applied with a locking plier, phew.. it came out well. I think the thread was usual ACW to unscrew. The only hard part was to find a substitute for the grease nut. I think this tip will work to pull out the fluid line bolt too, but may be at the cost of the fluid hose while welding on the bolt. I would suggest you to get help from a workshop who has the knack of doing it better than us. You will get the fluid line connector bolts from auto spare shops only thing is to make sure the thread pattern.

[aargee]

Originally Posted by sajjt

I think this tip will work to pull out the fluid line bolt too

That's a fantastic idea, really a GREAT tip
What I'll do is, probably use a little larger dia T shape tube & get it welded outside the first bolt (grease nut?), remove the nut & then let it remain there for removing next time. I'll remove the calipers or the entire assembly into pieces & take only the calipers to avoid damage on the hose.

I guess its called bleed valve, I could be wrong though.
Source - http://www.motorera.com/dictionary/p...disc_brake.jpg

[sajjt]

Originally Posted by aargee

That's a fantastic idea, really a GREAT tip
What I'll do is, probably use a little larger dia T shape tube & get it welded outside the first bolt (grease nut?), remove the nut & then let it remain there for removing next time. I'll remove the calipers or the entire assembly into pieces & take only the calipers to avoid damage on the hose

Yes that's the real term I think, but I got this from here: Saferide ABS | How to Assemble Saferide? Its drain plug (grease nipple) I wrongly used as grease nut!

[DerAlte]

Originally Posted by sajjt

... the right side nut is the grease nut ...

Hmmmm. If the right side bolt is indeed a "grease nut" (a hollow bolt with a top nipple with spring-loaded ball inside), then the bleeding could be done without removing it. One just has to use a thin round rod to (carefully, so that the ball is not scratched) depress the ball inside to remove the air!

IF it is a grease nut, that is ...

@thad, yes, I am an engineer - the been everywhere, done everything type! Kind of a jack of all trades.

[Sudarshan]

Originally Posted by sajjt

Yes that's the real term I think, but I got this from here: Saferide ABS | How to Assemble Saferide? Its drain plug (grease nipple) I wrongly used as grease nut!

Its a thing used to bleed/relese air from the brake circuit , dont Grease it Man

Called as Bleed skrew/ bleed nipple etc.

the upper part is for a tube to be attached of whose other end is dipped in a glass container filled little with brake oil.

Oh god what I am telling, is this a' Bakra' trap ?

yours Sudarshan

[sajjt]

Originally Posted by Sudarshan

Its a thing used to bleed/relese air from the brake circuit , dont Grease it Man

Called as Bleed skrew/ bleed nipple etc.

the upper part is for a tube to be attached of whose other end is dipped in a glass container filled little with brake oil.

Oh god what I am telling, is this a' Bakra' trap ?

yours Sudarshan

Nope. no greasing through the err.. bleed screw

[aargee]

I guess most of the shops don't know what's WD40 or they don't stock them. The H/W stores where people seem to be quite knowledgeable recommended me this one. Since I was in hurry to try this stuff, I couldn't resist buying one. Hopefully this does the job. I've already sprayed about 10+ times in last 2 hours.

[DerAlte]

Originally Posted by Sudarshan

... Oh god what I am telling, is this a' Bakra' trap ? ...

What 'bakra' trap?

[Jaguar]

Originally Posted by aargee

I guess most of the shops don't know what's WD40 or they don't stock them. The H/W stores where people seem to be quite knowledgeable recommended me this one. Since I was in hurry to try this stuff, I couldn't resist buying one. Hopefully this does the job. I've already sprayed about 10+ times in last 2 hours.

Originally Posted by Jaguar

Even if you don't get WD40, there are other similar products available. Check out the electronics shops near your area. I use a spray called Zorrik (Not sure of the name) and it does a good job of lubricating jammed bolts and stuff.

Thats the same thing I suggested. It works alright, you don't need to spray these many times, just spray liberally and leave it for sometime before trying to unscrew.
A word of caution. I suspect an eye infection I had is due to some of this spray going in. Just be a bit careful.