[Thad E Ginathom]

Originally Posted by Prowler

Trust me Araldite is - like Thad sir says - a child's putty compared with JB Weld.

Did I say that? <Blush>

Well, I guess it is probably justified. Lately, I've become a fan of superglue. I think one has to get a good one, the one I use is Anabond, and I think it is industrial strength. Of course, superglue, of course, is only good for clean breaks --- Although magical things can be done with superglue and sodium bicarbonate.

Most epoxy glues are probably good, certainly Araldite is. For anything that requires major gap filling or building up, Mseal, from the local shop, is great!

[govigov]

Originally Posted by manishalive

1.) How can I glue back the old cracked glass. What glue to use.

Can you post a pic of the crack? The crack is not really visible from the pic.

[Fillmore]

Was looking for a mid sized wood saw and came across this listing on Amazon.
It is a chainsaw adapter kit that can be linked to an Angle Grinder

https://www.amazon.in/Cheston-Electr...s%2C484&sr=8-5

My first though was , this looks as dangerous as hell.
Just want to get an opinion from the other members

[honeybee]

Originally Posted by Fillmore

Was looking for a mid sized wood saw and came across this listing on Amazon.
It is a chainsaw adapter kit that can be linked to an Angle Grinder

https://www.amazon.in/Cheston-Electr...s%2C484&sr=8-5

My first though was , this looks as dangerous as hell.
Just want to get an opinion from the other members

Avoid. Unless you are out chopping tree branches.

I bought an angle grinder just for this purpose, DIY wood cutting. The moment I started it (without the blade, mind you), it scared the living shit out of me. It spins at upwards of 10k rpm, and anything going wrong will cause a big accident. And there are a lot of things that can go wrong.

I tried cutting a 2x2x2 piece of wood with the grinder (with a wood cutting blade), and it couldn't do a clean sweep (because the blade is barely 4 inches, and it can't cut through the block). Went back to a hand saw, and although it took me a few minutes, it was the most relaxing part, as I suddenly found it to be much safer.

Use a handsaw, get a rip cut saw, sharpen it well and it should eliminate the need for an electric saw, at least for smaller DIY jobs.

Get a circular saw if you do feel the need to cut big sheets of plywood fast.

[comfortablynumb]

Originally Posted by manishalive

Guys I need suggestion.....

I guess you will find a new jar of similar size easily if you visit the wholesale crockery market in Bangalore, if there is one. Alternatively, search for "glass jars with metal lids" on Amazon, there are quite a few options, some of which could be of the size you are looking for. A few copied below for your reference:

https://www.amazon.in/Jinelza-Salsa-...%2C294&sr=8-30

https://www.amazon.in/Farkraft-Glass...%2C294&sr=8-12

https://www.amazon.in/AVNISH-Small-G...%2C294&sr=8-32

Only metal lids:

https://www.amazon.in/Pure-Source-In...%2C293&sr=8-18

[manishalive]

Originally Posted by honeybee

If you do want a perfect solution, why not spend on glass glue?

Alternatively, you could try sourcing the bottle from some mayapuri type place that sells antique auto stuff, or source it from ebay perhaps.

If you are passionate about getting it perfect, perhaps it's time to indulge her.

Also can you please share some photos of the location of the bottle in the engine bay?

Yes I can spend on glass glue, I just wanted to be sure if that will work. I want a fool proof solution so asking experts here . Also from the time I posted here have got the brackets made by laser cutting and folding and have modelled the bottle in CAD. I figured out the bottle I got is over sized in diameter, so will not do and thus the cad drawing.

This bottle is available no where and was also used on Ferraris, so the price is usually around 500 USD + Shipping + Customs

Originally Posted by GutsyGibbon

Can you cut the top of the jar to be of the right height, and see if I can use a rubber lid. Or a 3d printed lid with a rubber band as a gasket that seals water.

I would try experiments like this only if I can source more than one replacement jar.

The project here is 100% exact copy of the original and therefore all this circus. If not I can use other available solutions.

Originally Posted by govigov

Can you post a pic of the crack? The crack is not really visible from the pic.

Here you go.

Originally Posted by comfortablynumb

I guess you will find a new jar of similar size easily if you visit the wholesale crockery market in Bangalore, if there is one.

Only metal lids:

No buddy these are all not the right size - I need is 112mm Diameter and 116 mm height with a 96 mm screw cap. But yes I will definitely visit the main market to try my luck, just in case.

[honeybee]

Originally Posted by manishalive

No buddy these are all not the right size - I need is 112mm Diameter and 116 mm height with a 96 mm screw cap. But yes I will definitely visit the main market to try my luck, just in case.

From the engine bay photo, I see the increased height will probably foul with the closing of the bonnet. And I suspect there's something running underneath it. But I may be wrong.

Can you mount the new bottle slightly to the left / right and place it a little lower?

Also how is the pipe connected to it, from the bottom?

[manishalive]

Originally Posted by honeybee

From the engine bay photo, I see the increased height will probably foul with the closing of the bonnet. And I suspect there's something running underneath it. But I may be wrong.

Can you mount the new bottle slightly to the left / right and place it a little lower?

Also how is the pipe connected to it, from the bottom?

Yes the increased height will foul and right below is the cross member / stiffener. No I cannot mount it any where else. Dante Giacosa designed / placed it perfectly where it should be.

There will be a small nipple / nozzle (M7 bolt turned half way down to form a nozzle) affixed to the bottom hole to carry the fluid required.

[honeybee]

Well, other than that, I am out of ideas!

May be write to Fiat Motors and see if they can arrange one for you?

[bj96]

Can someone recommend a cordless impact wrench/driver for working on motorcycles and cars (tyre removal)? If it can be used as a screw driver and occasional drilling in wood/metals- will be icing on the cake. Budget is around 10k INR.

Regards,
-BJ

[rdst_1]

Originally Posted by bj96

Can someone recommend a cordless impact wrench/driver for working on motorcycles and cars (tyre removal)? If it can be used as a screw driver and occasional drilling in wood/metals- will be icing on the cake. Budget is around 10k INR.

Regards,
-BJ

You won't find anything from the established brands like Dewalt, Bosch, Makita in this budget.
Also, impact wrench and driver are two different things and you can't use one in place of other effectively. Wrench should only be used for removing lug nuts etc and it will be just too powerful for screw driving.
Prices in India are at least 2 times if not 3 times more than the US prices as you can check here.

https://www.amazon.in/dp/B07HNHX83X/...6VQ92AD3?psc=1

[sagarpadaki]

Originally Posted by bj96

Can someone recommend a cordless impact wrench/driver for working on motorcycles and cars (tyre removal)? If it can be used as a screw driver and occasional drilling in wood/metals- will be icing on the cake. Budget is around 10k INR.

Regards,
-BJ

There are unbranded electric wrenches available under 10K. Comes in 1/2 inch drive and can be used to loosen/tighten lug nuts.

My mechanic uses one of these for the past year on a daily basis and he is happy with the performance

https://www.amazon.in/s?k=electric+i...ss_ts-a-p_1_14

[drsingh]

I've used this connector rail solution to join wires around the house that need extension.I've also used it to join damaged/cut wires.

A sample is shown below.



Is there a better way to accomplish the same? Or a more efficient way?

I insulate the joint by wrapping with insulation tape. Is there a product to seal such a connection from humidity (sealing such a connection in the bathroom)?

I've thought about sealing it with M-seal.

Are crimp connectors a better solution for such connections?

Thanks in advance.

[paragsachania]

Originally Posted by drsingh

I've used this connector rail solution to join wires around the house that need extension.I've also used it to join damaged/cut wires.

A sample is shown below.



Is there a better way to accomplish the same? Or a more efficient way?

I insulate the joint by wrapping with insulation tape. Is there a product to seal such a connection from humidity (sealing such a connection in the bathroom)?

I've thought about sealing it with M-seal.

Are crimp connectors a better solution for such connections?

Thanks in advance.

Way back in 2017,when my requirement was to split a single line into 3 more additional sockets to power up the devices for my home theatre system, I made use of these connectors to split the line, one each for Ground, Line and Neutral.





You skin the wires 20mm, insert the wires and lock the clip. Totally reversible tomorrow of you change the design and layout of the cabinet.

[sagarpadaki]

Originally Posted by paragsachania

Way back in 2017,when my requirement was to split a single line into 3 more additional sockets to power up the devices for my home theatre system, I made use of these connectors to split the line, one each for Ground, Line and Neutral.

You skin the wires 20mm, insert the wires and lock the clip. Totally reversible tomorrow of you change the design and layout of the cabinet.

What are these called and where to buy them?