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Old 11th October 2019, 21:23   #4066
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Default Re: The Royal Enfield 500 Classic thread!

Quote:
Originally Posted by vidyasagar View Post
Dear All,
Is there a trick I am missing here? Kindly let me know your views.
The gearbox has many traits of the old British gearboxes so it is a bit more difficult to use than the Japanese motorcycles.
My UCE is also fussy about being shifted out of 1st or 2nd gear into neutral when the bike is stopped.
That said, if the clutch lever is not adjusted correctly, the problem will be much more noticeable.
When the motorcycle is stationary with the engine running and the clutch lever pulled in, there is still some drag between the rotating clutch plates being powered by the engine and the stationary clutch plates that drive the transmission. This results in the gears trying to drive the stationary rear wheel which in turn creates a load on the part of the gears that engage one another to transmit the power. (These projections between the gears are called, "dogs".)

With the dogs loaded, they do not want to slide easily to disengage so, you must apply more force to the shift lever than you would need to do if the engine is not running. The end result of this is, when the dogs finally do release, all of that extra power you needed to use to disengage them ends up slamming the next gears dogs into engagement so, rather than ending up in neutral, you end up in the next gear.

Getting back to the clutch, if it is not fully releasing, this problem with the dogs disengaging will be much worse.

The bottom line is, check your clutch lever adjustment by lightly moving the clutch lever just enough to take up the slack in the cable. There should be a gap of about 2 to 3mm of clearance between the movable lever and the bracket that holds the cable to the handlebar. If the gap is greater than this, the clutch is not fully releasing.

To adjust this gap, look at the lower end of the clutch cable. You will see that it is held in place with a adjustable fitting and a lock nut.
Loosen the lock nut and turn the fitting to correct the cable adjustment. When it is correct, tighten the lock nut.
Do not adjust the cable to remove all of the play or clearance at the clutch lever. It must have some clearance or the clutch will never fully be engaged and the clutch plates will wear out.

If the clutch lever clearance is set to the 2 to 3mm gap, sorry, that's as good as it gets so, remember to shift into neutral while the motorcycle is still moving.

Last edited by ArizonaJim : 11th October 2019 at 21:27.
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Old 12th October 2019, 14:48   #4067
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Default Re: The Royal Enfield 500 Classic thread!

Dear AJ, Navin,

Thank you for the detailed explanation, you also answered my next question, about why is the difference between the scenario of engine running and not running. The clutch play is proper, I guess I need more practice with the gear lever.

I have one additional question, on my silencer, I have a discoloration (picture attached). I understand if the discoloration if it happens on the bent pipe due to heat, any hints on what such discoloration means, and if I should get something checked?

Many thanks in advance
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Old 12th October 2019, 21:15   #4068
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Default Re: The Royal Enfield 500 Classic thread!

Quote:
Originally Posted by vidyasagar View Post
Dear AJ, Navin,

Thank you for the detailed explanation, you also answered my next question, about why is the difference between the scenario of engine running and not running. The clutch play is proper, I guess I need more practice with the gear lever.

I have one additional question, on my silencer, I have a discoloration (picture attached). I understand if the discoloration if it happens on the bent pipe due to heat, any hints on what such discoloration means, and if I should get something checked?

Many thanks in advance
Unless I'm mistaken, the silencer on the Royal Enfield UCE powered motorcycles has a catalytic converter inside of it.
These generate a lot of heat as they burn off any of the hydrocarbons that weren't burned in the engine. That heat will discolor the chrome plating that's on the outside of the silencer.
It's nothing to worry about.
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Old 13th October 2019, 02:42   #4069
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Default Re: The Royal Enfield 500 Classic thread!

Quote:
Originally Posted by navin_v8 View Post
Mate it should slot into the neutral that way.
Quote:
Originally Posted by ArizonaJim View Post
The gearbox has many traits of the old British gearboxes so it is a bit more difficult to use than the Japanese motorcycles.
Quote:
Originally Posted by vidyasagar View Post
I guess I need more practice with the gear lever.
I guess you guys missed the humor in my previous post.

The difficulty in finding neutral has nothing to do with British or Japanese or Indian gear boxes unless you're referring to the Kawasaki ones with Positive Neutral Finder.

It is an inherent trait of a constant mesh transmission with Neutral in Between 1st and 2nd to;

1. Only Shift Right with the Rear Wheel(Output Shaft) in motion, this applies to transmissions where Neutral is first as well or to put simply, all constant mesh transmissions. As due to being a constant mesh(cassette type) transmission it needs the rotation of the output shaft to facilitate the dogs to properly slot in and out.

2. Slip into 2nd from 1st without remaining in Neutral. The reason for which being that Neutral is the GAP between two shifter forks on the same rod slotting two different dogs(1st OUT, 2nd IN), a little imagination goes a long way! If you find it hard then the below diagram would be of help.

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So I guess you guys can see why its quite easy to miss neutral.

But then why is it easy to shift into Neutral with the engine Off?

With the engine off both the shafts are stationary and all that is required for Neutral to happen is for the shifter fork to slot out of 1st but at the same time due to the output shaft being stationary it doesn't slot into 2nd so easily.

Now that we have the basics covered lets discuss why on some motorcycles irrespective of them being Kawasaki's its easier to find neutral compared to the rest.

This has got to do with the difference in design of the gear shift lever assembly which is the part to which the shifter you shift is connected to;

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Shift Drum Stopper;

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And finally, the Shift Drum Guide;

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Couldn't find ideal pictures so had to make do with what I could find. Also do note that there are other minor/major parts that can affect the quality of shifting but if I get into the details it might just bring unnecessary confusion.

Now you guys might be thinking that there'd be a specific pattern/combination of types of the above parts a particular manufacturer would follow that would enable it to shift slicker than the rest, right?

Not exactly, from experience I've seen both Japanese and Indian manufacturers use different setups or at least updated them from model to model or different iterations of the same model.

Example:

Same Manufacturer: Try shifting on a Hero Honda Karizma and then a CBZ Xtreme.

Same Product: Try shifting on following variants of the Pulsar 220, a Pre-2011 model followed by a Post-2012 model and then finally a Post-2017 model.

In either of the above cases you'd find a stark difference in quality of shifting and that simply is how it is.

In short, don't bother much about it(because there's not much you can really do than adapt) and keep riding, make sure to change your oil more frequently as you can now imagine the number of parts that slide around to get things done, so an oil that is already contaminated would give you a hard time, the worst of which being false neutrals.

Plus it goes without saying, be gentle but firm with the shifter and dont hesitate to rock her(the motorcycle, as in to and fro) a little cause going ape-crap crazy on the shifter only ensures that you'd bend your shifter forks out of sync, and trust me, you don't want that.

A little more data and this post could've been a separate thread.

Last edited by ashwinprakas : 13th October 2019 at 03:03.
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Old 13th October 2019, 14:02   #4070
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Default Re: The Royal Enfield 500 Classic thread!

Quote:
Originally Posted by vidyasagar View Post
Dear AJ, Navin,
what such discoloration means, and if I should get something checked?
That very place where the discoloration has occurred is the place where they weld the silencer together after installing the exhaust baffle. Now a days the quality of company exhaust has gone so low that many new motorcycles are developing rust which leads to perforation in the very area.

So the discoloration means that you should stay alert and claim for a replacement under warranty at the first sight of rust or a crack

@ArizonaJim - Sir, You are right about the catalytic converter...but the same is located in the bend pipe near the bend pipe silencer joint (near the front right foot peg).

Last edited by adrian : 13th October 2019 at 14:05.
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Old 21st November 2019, 09:07   #4071
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Default Re: The Royal Enfield 500 Classic thread!

Royal Enfield may stop selling 500cc bikes from next year.

Quote:
Royal Enfield is reportedly planning to stop producing 500cc motorcycles since the Bharat Stage VI emission norms will make them unviable. The company will upgrade its line up of 350cc motorcycles instead for Indian markets and promote its 650cc motorcycles as its primary export drivers.

The push rod architecture of the existing 350cc and 500cc Royal Enfield engines do not meet the BS VI emission norms and have to be phased out, Livemint reported. The high cost of upgrading the 500cc engine and low demand make the endeavour unviable for Indian market.
News Source.
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Old 3rd December 2019, 22:34   #4072
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Default Re: The Royal Enfield 500 Classic thread!

Hi I am new here.

In Hyderabad there is an aftermarket sprag clutch available for around 2100, go for it.
Works great.
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Old 5th December 2019, 22:30   #4073
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Default Re: Royal Enfield 500 Classic 4100 km Ownership Review

Quote:
Originally Posted by Randhawa View Post
@KA18@Stnair

The way I do it is by engaging in first gear with engine off, use your fingers to just slide the chain on first two notches of the front sprocket. Once you feel the link of the chain is hooked on to the sprocket then gently use the kick to rotate the chain over the sprocket, once you see the chain drop just near the kick shaft then disengage the gear and pull the chain through. Thats all. You might find it a bit tricky but it's really easy once you get the hang of it.

Reason I use the first gear is because the chain is quite heavy and when the front sprocket is spinning free, the chain drops off the sprocket. So in gear in keeps it from sliding backward.

Dont even make the mistake of pulling off the Rh side engine cover.

The last part, should we not remove the right side engine cover?

I did that recently to clean the sludge that had been built up near the front sprocket since ages.

Put it back using a gasket maker, no leaks yet.

Just the alternator wire coming ouyof the case was leaking sime, fixed that with some more gasket maker and mseal.



But why would you say that bro, I'm a bit tensed now.
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Old 5th December 2019, 23:37   #4074
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Default Re: Royal Enfield 500 Classic 4100 km Ownership Review

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Originally Posted by MechPrasad View Post
The last part, should we not remove the right side engine cover?

I did that recently to clean the sludge that had been built up near the front sprocket since ages.

Put it back using a gasket maker, no leaks yet.

Just the alternator wire coming ouyof the case was leaking sime, fixed that with some more gasket maker and mseal.



But why would you say that bro, I'm a bit tensed now.
It's been a decade so I vaguely remember some things in details now, but I think it was due to the gasket and the O-rings. There is a small o-ring on the casing where the oil goes to the crank and bearings, if by mistake you drop it then the crank will hardly get any oil to the main bearings and damage will occur.
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Old 6th December 2019, 07:05   #4075
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Default Re: The Royal Enfield 500 Classic thread!

Noted, I did keep that in mind while opening the case bro. That's very very crucial afterall.

Thanks
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