[Raghu M]

Originally Posted by SansGT

Took mine for the 30K service last month, and they did mention about the ECU update. This was done as part of the service itself.

Sir, can you share the quotation for the front bumper? I have a full body ppf on my 3OO but at the same time, am scared of some autowallah or biker scraping the bumpers. Just want to know how much it costs. Thank you.

[SansGT]

Originally Posted by Raghu M

Sir, can you share the quotation for the front bumper? I have a full body ppf on my 3OO but at the same time, am scared of some autowallah or biker scraping the bumpers. Just want to know how much it costs. Thank you.

The bumper costs approximately INR4200. I changed the right DRL which costs INR 1860 and labor cost is around INR5000. These are all inclusive of GST. The total bill was around 15K.

[CARSFASCINATEME]

Originally Posted by bijims

The Maruti Suzuki Brezza seems to be one of the best cars under 12 lakhs which meets most of your parameters, It's no-nonsense, and the LXI and VXI variants have very less electronics, the pre-facelift model was rated 4 stars in the GNCAP and is spacious as well, however, performance is mediocre. Moreover, sales, service, spare parts, and reliability are top-notch and perhaps the best in the market under this budget.

The XUV300 is due a facelift soon, and I am sure the base-model XUV300 facelift will be much better than the current generation and will still fall within your budget. It is an option worth considering. Sales and service experience would depend upon your dealership, albeit Mahindra and Tata haven't been well known for their ASS experience, but things are changing.

Oh, ok. Thank you for the update on a pending facelift, I had no idea about it. Although not sure if the fam bam is enthusiastic about getting a Mahindra anymore. They really have some time before the modern image of Mahindra cars replaces the current image in their hearts.

Regards.

[CARSFASCINATEME]

Originally Posted by CARSFASCINATEME

Hello guys!

My mom is looking to upgrade from her Ritz VXi (2009 model) to a new vehicle. Her inclination is towards a cSUV type car. Strictly petrol. We are based outta Delhi. Daily use is about 15km with occasional highway runs. Our budget is under 12L on road. We're interested in a no nonsense, least electronics based vehicle. Safety is the only priority along with ample space for 5 ( occasionally) and some performance in the engine.

We have halted our current look out for cars as the Ritz still has about 10 more months before it's deemed illegal to play on Delhi roads by the mind numbingly stupid NGT laws.

Till then, our love story continues with little flirting on the sides, to keep up to date with the latest models and what not. Elevate has majority votes. And sadly, XUV300 is out, for now.

[SansGT]

Originally Posted by vinithmenon28

Hi Team,

Has anyone experienced notchy gears with XUV 300, my XUV 300 w8 (0 ) petrol has very nothcy gears and im forced to live with it, i think the car is like this itself.

Problem is slotting into second gear is notchy and when you are fast accelarating shifting to 3rd gear is a bit resistive and i have to slow the car down a bit and the gear gets engaged to 3rd gear

Is this a common problem , has any one experienced this ??

I wouldn't say notchy. Is it Maruti or Hyundai smooth? No! But never had problems slotting the gears.

[ashishk29]

It's been a wild couple of days...

So about 3 days back, I noticed that my usual key fob didn't work by using the request sensor on the door, but unlocked fine using the buttons on the fob. I didn't think it was a big deal.

A day later, even that didn't work anymore. I had to unlock the car using the physical key within the fob, and of course that set off the alarm
Why? If it's an authorised key, the alarm shouldn't be based off of how the car was locked the last time around. (For the benefit of any who were unaware of this as I was, the car will sound the alarm if you don't use the same method to unlock as the last lock. So if I lock using the fob, and then unlock using the same physical key, it fires the alarm)

So now I had to get in the car, hold the fob at the start/stop button to get it on. Ok. So far so good. Car started fine. And then it kept beeping for "Key not in car" for the next several minutes. I stop at a signal, power the car off, and then on again, and this warning goes away. (WHY?!)

I reach my office, come back to the parking an hour later, and somehow the damn fob works?! HOW?! And somehow in the evening, the fob doesn't work again. Surprise surprise.

All is fine, I come back home, and my first assumption was, yeah, fob battery must've died. So I went inside my home, got my spare fob, which was unused for the last 2 years by the way! And whaddaya know. Same problem even with THIS key.

I was completely befuddled. How can I have a dead battery in BOTH my keys despite the complete opposite use?! I was almost convinced there was something wrong with my car.

Took it down to the showroom, and of course the service assistant suggests the first thing to try, change the fob batteries. "Anyway workshop will ask for the same thing" he says. Fair enough.

At first he changed the battery in one fob. And whadday know, it worked. I asked him to get in the car and fire it up to confirm. He does that, then powers off. However, as he was doing this, I accidentally clicked the button on the other fob which was in my hand, which did NOT have its battery replaced. And it worked?! (Again, WHY?!)

Anyway, he replaced the battery in the second fob as well, and so far things have been ok.

But this raises several concerns for me:
1. Why did the fobs work intermittently for some time?
2. WHY this stupid notion that a physical key unlock will sound the alarm? They have RFID chips inside the keys, can't the damn car detect it's a valid key?!
3. Why can't the car warn me when the fob battery is running low? I talked to a couple of my colleagues, and they said their car cluster warns them of low fob battery. In start/stop type cars, this needs to be mandatory.
4. I am still not convinced that somehow BOTH my fobs were dead at the same time.


Apart from this, got the ECU/EMS updated flashed at the same place. 15 minutes job, I was in and out before I knew it.
Does anyone know what this update was supposed to do/fix? A change-log of sorts?

[subramanyam84]

Originally Posted by ashishk29

But this raises several concerns for me:
1. Why did the fobs work intermittently for some time?
2. WHY this stupid notion that a physical key unlock will sound the alarm? They have RFID chips inside the keys, can't the damn car detect it's a valid key?!
3. Why can't the car warn me when the fob battery is running low? I talked to a couple of my colleagues, and they said their car cluster warns them of low fob battery. In start/stop type cars, this needs to be mandatory.
4. I am still not convinced that somehow BOTH my fobs were dead at the same time.

1. That is simply how the cell electrochemistry works. It simply has caught you at a wrong threshold, where the cell voltage is at the borderline between 'good' and 'bad' for the fob transmitter to work. So it has appeared mystical to you. The discharge curve is not a smooth straight line. But a jagged line over 10's of millivolts. This would happen for a couple of days and the fobs stop working altogether. (I've noticed this pattern of cell death in Honda City, Wagon R, Ford Ikon. Of course there the keys were only to lock/unlock).

2. That goes down to the circuitry. Mechanical intrusion is seen as a mechanical intrusion. I'm not saying it's an intelligent way of addressing the issue. It's just a cheap way I guess. But even if a system were there to detect the original key, your cell was dead, so there's no way of telling. Maybe I should experiment with mine and check, one early morning

3. I'm surprised that the car didn't warn you. Hope someone from Mahindra reads this!

4. You could find literature that talks about constant drain (spare key fob) killing the primary cell faster than a similar primary cell subjected to the same constant drain with occasional discharge spikes (main key fob). It's not intuitive but you've to go into the working of a lithium primary cell to understand this phenomenon. Bottom-line, it's completely normal.

Originally Posted by ashishk29

Apart from this, got the ECU/EMS updated flashed at the same place. 15 minutes job, I was in and out before I knew it.
Does anyone know what this update was supposed to do/fix? A change-log of sorts?

I too was called for this 'software recall'. I asked them what was the change, they just said 'software update'. I don't even know if it was for the Turbosport variant or for both petrol variants. No details given.

[Sachin_s74]

Originally Posted by ashishk29

Anyway, he replaced the battery in the second fob as well, and so far things have been ok.

Hello Ashish
I also face this sometimes.. How much did he charge for battery replacement? Can we do it at home?

[mihir_m13]

Originally Posted by vinithmenon28

Hi Team,

Has anyone experienced notchy gears with XUV 300, my XUV 300 w8 (0 ) petrol has very nothcy gears and im forced to live with it, i think the car is like this itself.

Problem is slotting into second gear is notchy and when you are fast accelarating shifting to 3rd gear is a bit resistive and i have to slow the car down a bit and the gear gets engaged to 3rd gear

Is this a common problem , has any one experienced this ??

What i find different with XUV 300 as compared to Maruti & Hyundai & Tata that i've driven before is - In case of the 1st & 2nd Gear only - one really needs to FLOOR the clutch pedal to the last millimeter for a smooth slotting. Floor it real hard.

Try and do this very consciously for a few times and see if you notice the difference. Over a period it'll become a habit. I am an owner of XUV 300 Petrol since the last two years and even today - sometime the clutch isn't floored the gear don't slot smoothly. Other cars like Maruti, Hyunday etc - will give your some leeway - not XUV.

[ashishk29]

Originally Posted by subramanyam84

2. But even if a system were there to detect the original key, your cell was dead, so there's no way of telling.

But the car DOES have a way of detecting an original key even if the cell is dead: RF. That's how the start/stop button is able to detect the key fob and start the car.

I remember reading about this in Maruti context some while back, but they started putting RFID chips in their physical keys, which the car would "validate" before unlocking.

I am vehemently positive that this should work in a modern day 2023 car as well! The system should be able to detect an original key through RFID.

But it may just be down to cost-cutting to not include an RFID detector at the keyhole. Who knows.

Originally Posted by Sachin_s74

Hello Ashish
I also face this sometimes.. How much did he charge for battery replacement? Can we do it at home?

They charged me 140/- for 2 cells replaced. However it's a common CR2032 type button cell. It should be doable at home, just that the key fob is a bit hard to open up. Try not to damage your fob!

[ashishk29]

Update on my key fob situation:

One of the key fobs started giving a weak response today itself.

For reference, I got the battery in both fobs replaced on Dec 22/23.
So it's been hardly 2 weeks.

I would've suspected a vehicle issue, but then why did it work for the last 2 weeks?

I am yet to try out the second key with the new battery, but I suspect it'll behave the same.

[Krish1309]

I happened to read this post now while I was going through my search history of my most recent purchase. And I must say that there is uncanny similarity between the story you wrote and the one I will write soon. Making it more interesting, your and my car delivery dates are exactly the same, just an year apart!
I hope you have been enjoying your drives so far! Anything I should be concerned about my Black Stallion (that's what I call my Black XUV300 TGDi W8 (O)).

P.S. I am eagerly waiting for my first mega road trip of 2500+ kms from Siliguri (hometown) to Bengaluru (workplace).

[nischaltopno]

Originally Posted by ashishk29

Update on my key fob situation:

One of the key fobs started giving a weak response today itself.

For reference, I got the battery in both fobs replaced on Dec 22/23.
So it's been hardly 2 weeks.

I would've suspected a vehicle issue, but then why did it work for the last 2 weeks?

I am yet to try out the second key with the new battery, but I suspect it'll behave the same.

What a timing and a coincidence.

I have an EcoSport and have almost a similar issue which is documented here (https://www.team-bhp.com/forum/offic...ml#post5698951 (Ford EcoSport : Official Review)). The spare key fob of mine was also not used, and looks like the key fob battery is getting drained faster after the first battery change. The only difference is that my car is getting locked/unlocked on its own if key fob is in range.

Let’s hope we find a solution sooner than later.

[lardvader]

Hi,

My wife with her small hands is finding the car horn to be:
1) Too hard to press
2) Locations are hard to reach in urgent situations.

Possible solutions:
a) Can horn sensitivity be softened?
b) Can an external horn button be installed?

Car is 3 months old.

Thanks

[Duckdoc]

Originally Posted by lardvader

Hi,

My wife with her small hands is finding the car horn to be:
1) Too hard to press
2) Locations are hard to reach in urgent situations.

Probably worth trying this:
The periphery is much easier to press rather than the centre.

https://youtu.be/OZTRxjbsUyA?si=xHKIRYgZ5KjOeuGQ