[desiaztec]

Hello Folks,

Overhead tanks installed at my home on the 4th Floor feeds the kitchen on the second floor and an automatic washing machine on the third floor. Pipes are 3/4" installed back in 2004. The flow in the kitchen and the washing machine has reduced, drastically in case of washing machine. While I'am aware that these G.I pipes must have a constricted passage due to accumulation of sediments and rust and thus the lower pressure, what can I do to escape this? Fitting a new pipeline is not feasible because the pipes inside the kitchen are concealed in the wall with tiles stuck on the walls, and I don't want that kind of damage. Someone suggested a pressure motor in the pipeline but I have no clue about which company to go for and whether it would be successful or not.

Please suggest.

[architect]

Originally Posted by desiaztec

Hello Folks,

Overhead tanks installed at my home on the 4th Floor feeds the kitchen on the second floor and an automatic washing machine on the third floor. Pipes are 3/4" installed back in 2004. The flow in the kitchen and the washing machine has reduced, drastically in case of washing machine. While I'am aware that these G.I pipes must have a constricted passage due to accumulation of sediments and rust and thus the lower pressure, what can I do to escape this? Fitting a new pipeline is not feasible because the pipes inside the kitchen are concealed in the wall with tiles stuck on the walls, and I don't want that kind of damage. Someone suggested a pressure motor in the pipeline but I have no clue about which company to go for and whether it would be successful or not.

Please suggest.

Your plumber can get a pressure motor or pressure device. Let me warn you that in case your pipes are decayed / rusted, using more pressure will only make them burst or make their holes bigger.
The correct way to do this is to
(a) Rip apart the piping in the wall, replace and re-finish the walls.
(b) Let the old pipes be, disconnect them and add new pipes which are surface mounted and not concealed.

This time around, you could use CPVC instead of G I pipes.

[desiaztec]

Originally Posted by architect

Your plumber can get a pressure motor or pressure device. Let me warn you that in case your pipes are decayed / rusted, using more pressure will only make them burst or make their holes bigger.
The correct way to do this is to
(a) Rip apart the piping in the wall, replace and re-finish the walls.
(b) Let the old pipes be, disconnect them and add new pipes which are surface mounted and not concealed.

This time around, you could use CPVC instead of G I pipes.

Thanks for the caution, I wasn't aware of this possibility. Also, the length of GI pipes which is running through the terrace is not concealed, and by the looks of it doesn't seem to be rusted from outside. Inside the kitchen, I don't want the pipes to be visible, and concealing will be a major expense because that would mean ripping apart the wall tiles. I later thought of adding a new CPVC pipeline for the washing machine so that way at least one problem gets addressed. What do you think? I wish there were CPVC pipes back in 2004, or I wasn't aware.

[Turbanator]

Pipes are 3/4" installed back in 2004. The flow in the kitchen and the washing machine has reduced, drastically in case of washing machine

If there is no leakage, you don't need to worry. I too had a similar issue and got the pump installed. Grundfos is the leader and one of best, I have 3 different installations for many Years, all working fine.

Another workaround which gave good results was changing Pipe on roof portion, don't know the reasons but I found just by changing pipe on the rooftop and keeping wall pipes same I was able to solve pressure and leakage issue in 2 of my bathrooms.

[blackasta]

Originally Posted by desiaztec

Hello Folks,

Overhead tanks installed at my home on the 4th Floor feeds the kitchen on the second floor and an automatic washing machine on the third floor. Pipes are 3/4" installed back in 2004. The flow in the kitchen and the washing machine has reduced, drastically in case of washing machine. While I'am aware that these G.I pipes must have a constricted passage due to accumulation of sediments and rust and thus the lower pressure, what can I do to escape this? Fitting a new pipeline is not feasible because the pipes inside the kitchen are concealed in the wall with tiles stuck on the walls, and I don't want that kind of damage. Someone suggested a pressure motor in the pipeline but I have no clue about which company to go for and whether it would be successful or not.

Please suggest.

one of my friends have fitted this - http://in.grundfos.com/products/find...m-booster.html

The motor monitors the water pressure level at source (overhead tank) , and activates once it senses a drop in the pressure.

[rdst_1]

I would vote for option b) as you will have to install new pipes any how.
So it is much better to not have to remove all the tiling and the walls.
I am installing open pipes and wiring in my house for this very reason.
You can route and hide the pipes with decorative claddings which are cheaper and easier to dismantle if repairs need to be carried in the future. You can use anything from PVC panels to real wood to make such claddings according to your need. They add a decorative touch while conveniently hiding the pipes.

[desiaztec]

Thanks for the prompt and insightful suggestions. I don't see the 'Thanks' button but thanks @architect, @turbantor, @blackasta and @rdst_1. Also, I see this Grundfos pump is an expensive machine available at amazon for Rs. 31,000/-. Do we have cheaper options?

[architect]

Originally Posted by desiaztec

Thanks for the caution, I wasn't aware of this possibility. Also, the length of GI pipes which is running through the terrace is not concealed, and by the looks of it doesn't seem to be rusted from outside.

Originally Posted by Turbanator

If there is no leakage, you don't need to worry. I

More than the pipes I am worrried about the walls. A wall / slab with water inside is a nightmare that will haunt you for years if you are not solving the problem ASAP. It is not just bothersome but also dangerous.

Originally Posted by desiaztec

I wish there were CPVC pipes back in 2004, or I wasn't aware.

Make sure he uses the correct jointing glue.

Originally Posted by rdst_1

So it is much better to not have to remove all the tiling and the walls. I am installing open pipes and wiring in my house for this very reason.

We often advise exposed plumbing/ wiring. Clients don't agree. They feel the architect's fees is not justified if wiring / plumbing is exposed.

[dailydriver]

Originally Posted by architect

We often advise exposed plumbing/ wiring. Clients don't agree. They feel the architect's fees is not justified if wiring / plumbing is exposed.

You are a man of my own heart!

I am neither an architect nor an engineer even. But I have always believed in maintaining the unconcealed look - be it for plumbing or wiring. Apart from the cost benefit, a major advantage of the exposed arrangement is that a majority of non complex and not too technical repair works can be done the DIY way when due.

Conversely, exposed water pipes are prone to damages caused due to heat and/or sabotage. Plus, as you rightly said, a clean look is considered more urbane and stylish.

To each his own!

[architect]

Originally Posted by dailydriver

Apart from the cost benefit, a major advantage of the exposed arrangement is that a majority of non complex and not too technical repair works can be done the DIY way when due.

The problem with concealed piping is not merely the issue of repair and damage but, most critically, the damage that water causes to the structure of the building when these pipes leak. In North India, 95% of buildings suffer from water-related damage.

[rdst_1]

We are currently building the first floor of our 25yr old house. There was an issue of a leak in one of the bathroom walls of the old structure and also since the house is in a village we don't find good plumbers/electricians etc. at the time you need one, I decided to keep pipes and wires accessible for repairs. I will also be doing all the installation myself including a steam room in one of the new bathrooms.
The new structure will still have concealed pipes and wiring but not in walls or false ceiling as usually done. There are definitely ways to make open pipes and wires look like works of art but neither is that kind of hardware easily available nor do my parents like that look.
I'll be using wood/laminated cement board depending upon the look we want to achieve and utility of the area to create cladding for the pipes and wires which can be easily disassembled and put back together for carrying out repairs.

[rdst_1]

Guys,
I need help in deciding on the waterproofing strategy for our first floor bathroom.
The masonry and cement plaster have been done. It would have been good if we could have mixed something earlier but that work had been done by the contractor.
So let me know which products have you guys used or come across in your research which gives a long lasting satisfactory result for concrete waterproofing.

[architect]

Originally Posted by rdst_1

Guys,
I need help in deciding on the waterproofing strategy for our first floor bathroom.

There are many different types of waterproofing you can use. You can use polymer modified cementitious waterproofing (with tapecrete) with 15 mm plaster with CICO chemical over it. Your contractor will be able to advise.

http://http://www.cicogroup.com/by-e...tchen-balcony/

Whatever you use, remember to

1) Not hurry the process and follow specifications to the letter
2) Make sure waterproofing goes up to at least 300 mm or more on the wall at the sides of the flooring
3) Curing is done properly
4) Fill the entire water-proofed (upto the point on the sides just below where you have done the water-proofing) and test it for at least 3-5 days.

[fine69]

I'm planning to get ceiling height wardrobes made in 2 rooms. The contractor quoted Rs.1000/sqft for using non-popular boards and Rs.1400/sqft for using Century boards.

Hettich fittings remain standard in both.

Price-wise I'm not too worried but is Century really worth paying 32k extra? Its 80k vs 112k and this price difference is significant to me.

Lastly, is Pinterest a good place to get wardrobe designs from? Since it'll be custom made I want it to be usable & practical.

[amitk26]

Originally Posted by fine69

I'm planning to get ceiling height wardrobes made in 2 rooms. The contractor quoted Rs.1000/sqft for using non-popular boards and Rs.1400/sqft for using Century boards.

Hettich fittings remain standard in both.

Price-wise I'm not too worried but is Century really worth paying 32k extra? Its 80k vs 112k and this price difference is significant to me.

Lastly, is Pinterest a good place to get wardrobe designs from? Since it'll be custom made I want it to be usable & practical.

Go for known brands like Century ply , Green ply etc and inspect the raw material before finishing is done.

When they say non-popular brand it may mean either particle board or Chinese plywood , Though interior designers / carpentry contractors say ply but they mostly fall back to particle board wherever it is not visible example in the shelf partition. Particle board can not take moisture and does not last beyond 4-5 years.
If you insist too much on ply and say no-particle board he may use imported Chinese Plywood. Problem with no-name Chinese plywood is excess formaldehyde which is carcinogenic.

For finishing you can either choose laminated finish or wood veneer with polish.

For lamination these days there are factories which create custom molded shutters by wrapping laminate membrane in machine to give rounded edges and finish which was only available in big brands / imported furniture earlier. Most contractors / carpenters are using their services and once the shutter is wrapped you wont be able to find what is inside so you need to trust the contractor.
On the site they will just make the box using per-laminated sheets. Factory pressed membrane lamination is superior to old method of sticking lamination using favicol on site,


If you are going for veneer finish, whole work will be done by carpenters so you can see what is going inside however however for veneer finish check the thickness of veneer there are many qualities in 4mm veneer commonly used. The top decorative layer of veneer should be 0.3 to 0.5 mm thick so that you can get it re-polished later. Avoid Chinese veneer which has the decorative layer around 0.1mm thick and backing is anything from cardboard to eucalyptus it tears easily.

It will be best if you can find someone who works with material purchased-by you and charges for labor however it is hard to find these days in big cities like Bangalore / Mumbai.


About the design

In my experience of getting woodwork done with multiple times is that that most of so called urban interior designers have really have no understanding of carpentry or ability to read drawings until and unless they themselves have worked as carpenter and became contractor after years of work,

Call this my bias but after getting woodwork done some 4 times I would say avoid any smooth talking English speaking interior designer who has no experience of working by hand. Mostly this guy is just a middleman importing workers from other parts of country and exploiting both customer and workers.

The master worker of most of these interior designers are mostly some Rajasthani or Eastern UP guy and if you talk directly to them they could easily understand the drawing and ideas and implement them.