[shashank.nk]

So my planted tank is overrun with hair algae. First it was on the driftwood but now it's everywhere.
I added DIY CO2(baking soda & citric acid mix) recently which is at a fairly consistent 1bps
I dose flourish-5 ml potassium-10ml, phosphorus-10ml and iron-5ml all once a week.
On the net I find it very confusing as some say it may be due to low nitrates,low CO2,high phosphate or light period.
How do I go about finding out what's causing it and getting rid of algae?

[V.Narayan]

WAG7, some soap or other ingredient has got into the water when you let it lie for 24 hours. Take the fish out into a bucket (equalize temperature) and flush and clean your whole tank. Also check if paint is dissolving from some artifact you have kept in the tank.

[ritz3645]

Originally Posted by W.A.G.7

I .

Hi,
Soapy water happens when oil in water gets agitated by the air pump/water current.

De-chlorinator is used only when you're using tap water straight to put in the fishe.

Anti-ich is to be used in a hospital tank only when your fish has ich or white spots.

The home tap water is treated by muncipality and is fit for human consumption so be assured that it will not carry any pathogens. A fish get ich only when tank water goes bad or has shared space with an infected fish.

Originally Posted by shashank.nk

So

Hi Algae bloom is normal, what it means is that water parameters are perfect for vegetation. To remove it wash the plants/log in running tap water. Keep a Plecostomus or guppies which love Algae.
Reducing the light time is an option. Now about CO2, micro + macro ferts. There is already enough of it in the water. Attached is a pic of symptoms and remedy for plants. Basically another example is Doc prescribes me 25 mg vitamin, and I take 500 my vitamin, so will I grow faster since I took 500mg ? no as my body will take in only what's needed and will flush out the not needed.



Dear W.A.G.7. & Prashant,

I have habit of exchanging my fish with my LFS. He will scoop out the fish with a net and toss them in his tank. I used to wonder of water parameters and temp. However since the LFS guy was so sure of the water in his tank it was a non issue for him.
Similarly both of you just get the basic or water right and leave aside adding things like CO2 or ich or other. As like for disease wait for symptoms to show which will guide you towards the remedy. The water is the environment in the tank and has everything in it. If something is missing it will show up in fish or plants.

99% of the time the LFS gave me perfect fish and plants. I had to visit him within a week as I killed my fish or plants because I couldn't stop myself from experimenting.

So finally I have made a rule doing nothing, may have put my hand only once inside my tank water to plant an uprooted stem, in like past two months.

[R32_GTR]

Originally Posted by shashank.nk

So my planted tank is overrun with hair algae. First it was on the driftwood but now it's everywhere.
I added DIY CO2(baking soda & citric acid mix) recently which is at a fairly consistent 1bps
I dose flourish-5 ml potassium-10ml, phosphorus-10ml and iron-5ml all once a week.
On the net I find it very confusing as some say it may be due to low nitrates,low CO2,high phosphate or light period.
How do I go about finding out what's causing it and getting rid of algae?

Root cause is usually unfavorable (or favorable) water, co2 and light conditions and has happen to all planted aquarium owners in early days or when the tanks are neglected for over a week



1. Reduce CO2 & light intensity for a week or so.
2. Change water with RO water only. tap water has chlorine which aids algae growth.
3. Trim all plants & leaves which have algae on them; they'll grow back once water conditions, co2 and light condition stabilizes.

[shashank.nk]

Originally Posted by ritz3645

Hi, Attached is a pic of symptoms and remedy for plants. Basically another example is Doc prescribes me 25 mg vitamin, and I take 500 my vitamin, so will I grow faster since I took 500mg ? no as my body will take in only what's needed and will flush out the not needed.

Thank you for the pic, should be useful once the tank stabilises. I've already washed and boiled the driftwood after the hair algae attack. It did nothing though.

Originally Posted by R32_GTR

Root cause is usually unfavorable (or favorable) water, co2 and light conditions and has happen to all planted aquarium owners in early days or when the tanks are neglected for over a week

I skipped water change one week to see if I can get by with 2 water changes a month and also reduced CO2. Thats when hair algae exploded.

1. Reduce CO2 & light intensity for a week or so.

I leave it on for about 6 hours now with a 2 hr break in between. Reduce it to around 4-5 hrs ?

2. Change water with RO water only. tap water has chlorine which aids algae growth.

I was using tap water and adding API tap water conditioner. I'll try to use RO water in future.

[ritz3645]

Originally Posted by shashank.nk

Thank you for the pic, should be useful once the tank stabilises. I've already washed and boiled the driftwood after the hair algae attack. It did nothing though..

Hi Shashank,
So, I found this link which will help you in understanding Algae. Basically it's for swimming pool, but I picked whatever is relevant to you.

Point two in article says chlorine kills algae spores. So the thought of washing algae infected plants or drift wood under running water which usually has minor traces of it.

Point eight in the article says Eliminating phosphates prevents algae growth. Which may be a reason for bloom.

Link of article : https://www.lesliespool.com/blog/poo...evention-tips/

[deathwalkr]

Originally Posted by W.A.G.7

I change 1/3rd of the water every week. The 75 ltr tank came with an inbuilt filtration system and light. But when this soapy water came up, i immediately changed 50% of the water. Just now when I checked, the foam has reduced a lot. Also, the fish is now swimming in the tank, albeit slowly.

I generally feed him 15-20 dry pellets, soaked in water for a few minutes. I feed him only once a day, so I am pretty sure he has not over-eaten.

Regarding the water - I take the tap water, and add the de-chlorinator + anti-ich and rest it for a day before using it in the tank.

Ok, i assume it is only a sponge filter then.

Goldfishes are crap machines and they can really foul up their tank very fast. If you have gravel, you need to siphon out water from under the gravel so that waste debris is also sucked out.

Change 50% every week.

Use a good water conditioner like Seachem Prime or API Tap water conditioner.

Pretty sure you don't need to add ICH medicine all the time. Will only lead to more stress for the fish and not to mention mess up the water parameters.

Foam is when proteins build up in water. Happens due to excess presence of products which no doubt are harmful to the fish.

Get a small bio filter for the tank with ceramic rings, will really help your water conditions.

And instead of feeding him one big meal, feed him 2/3 small meals in a day.

Good luck.

Originally Posted by ritz3645

Hi,
Now about CO2, micro + macro ferts. There is already enough of it in the water. Attached is a pic of symptoms and remedy for plants. Basically another example is Doc prescribes me 25 mg vitamin, and I take 500 my vitamin, so will I grow faster since I took 500mg ? no as my body will take in only what's needed and will flush out the not needed.

99% of the time the LFS gave me perfect fish and plants. I had to visit him within a week as I killed my fish or plants because I couldn't stop myself from experimenting.

So finally I have made a rule doing nothing, may have put my hand only once inside my tank water to plant an uprooted stem, in like past two months.

Point 1: Good luck maintaining a decent planted aquarium without CO2 and Add ons, not to mention a good substrate and lightings.

Point 2: Experimenting?!

Point 3: Wonder how you do water changes without putting your hand inside the tank.

[ritz3645]

Originally Posted by deathwalkr

Ok, i

Point 1: Good luck maintaining a decent planted aquarium without CO2 and Add ons, not to mention a good substrate and lightings.

Point 2: Experimenting?!

Point 3: Wonder how you do water changes without putting your hand inside the tank.

Point one - Post 710 above.

Point two - Experimenting as in liquids like chlorine, blue, ich or salt in water or for washing. Oh and proactice dousing ferts.

Point three - Use 1/2" garden pipe to remove water and a tub to add water from top. Complete water change is only once in six months. Weekly 75 % change.

(Posting via phone)

[W.A.G.7]

Originally Posted by deathwalkr

Change 50% every week.

Thanks for the suggestion, I will do that.

Originally Posted by deathwalkr

Use a good water conditioner like Seachem Prime or API Tap water conditioner.

I hadn't heard of these. But the one I am using; has been provided by the fish tank shop; and over the last one year, the fish is pretty OK with it.

Originally Posted by deathwalkr

Pretty sure you don't need to add ICH medicine all the time. Will only lead to more stress for the fish and not to mention mess up the water parameters.

Ok, didn't know that they would get stressed. I will stop using it every week and see what happens.

Originally Posted by deathwalkr

Foam is when proteins build up in water. Happens due to excess presence of products which no doubt are harmful to the fish.

Yes, but my prime suspect is that some shells which had been added in the decoration were creating the problem. I have removed the decorations now and the water is much cleaner. I will change the water on this weekend. Overall he has improved a lot, he has started eating since today and is also swimming throughout the tank normally since today morning.

Originally Posted by deathwalkr

Get a small bio filter for the tank with ceramic rings, will really help your water conditions.

What's that? Do you have some links (to buy online) / pictures?

Originally Posted by deathwalkr

And instead of feeding him one big meal, feed him 2/3 small meals in a day.

I will try that. But he seems quite happy with one meal a day, never really had any problem till now.

[deathwalkr]

Originally Posted by W.A.G.7

Thanks for the suggestion, I will do that.


I hadn't heard of these. But the one I am using; has been provided by the fish tank shop; and over the last one year, the fish is pretty OK with it.


Ok, didn't know that they would get stressed. I will stop using it every week and see what happens.


Yes, but my prime suspect is that some shells which had been added in the decoration were creating the problem. I have removed the decorations now and the water is much cleaner. I will change the water on this weekend. Overall he has improved a lot, he has started eating since today and is also swimming throughout the tank normally since today morning.


What's that? Do you have some links (to buy online) / pictures?


I will try that. But he seems quite happy with one meal a day, never really had any problem till now.

Please do buy the water conditioners i mentioned. They are universally accepted and are tried and tested by thousands of hobbyists everywhere.

Could you put up a pic of your tank? General rule i follow is to keep the tank as natural as possible and closely mimicking the fishes natural habitat.

Bio filters are filters which stores bio media and thus aid is helping you control the water conditions which will deteriorate due to uneaten food and fish excretions.

For your tank size, look at the aquaclear 20/30. Little expensive but worth it. For my 90G tank, i have two Aquaclear 70s [One for bio and one for chem] and one Hydor 450 canister filter loaded with bio media.

Helps keep the water clear and most importantly clean.

Remember that Goldfishes are gluttons and will eat themselves to death if such an opportunity is presented to it, so moderate feeding is recommended. But not knowing the size of the pellets, you would be the right judge of that.

[V.Narayan]

Dear deathwalker, your knowledge is legendary as is your generosity in sharing it with all. Thanks for that. Pardon my ignorance what is a water conditioner for - chlorine, Ph balance?

All,

I have kept large tanks for 20 odd years and smaller ones before that back to 1973. Don't put any additives. But I just use regular tap water to change 50% once in 2 weeks and clear up the filters that's all. Baby fish are constantly being born so I assume the biology is in balance. After having dispatched off many fish in my younger years with over enthusiasm I now leave the tank tamper free. But if there is something bare minimum I should do please let me know. My tank is well over 1000 litres+ with 25 medium sized chiclids and many tiny fry.

[deathwalkr]

Originally Posted by V.Narayan

Dear deathwalker, your knowledge is legendary as is your generosity in sharing it with all. Thanks for that. Pardon my ignorance what is a water conditioner for - chlorine, Ph balance?

All,

I have kept large tanks for 20 odd years and smaller ones before that back to 1973. Don't put any additives. But I just use regular tap water to change 50% once in 2 weeks and clear up the filters that's all. Baby fish are constantly being born so I assume the biology is in balance. After having dispatched off many fish in my younger years with over enthusiasm I now leave the tank tamper free. But if there is something bare minimum I should do please let me know. My tank is well over 1000 litres+ with 25 medium sized chiclids and many tiny fry.

Sir, you put me on too high a pedestal

You can read more about Seachem Prime on their website:
https://www.seachem.com/prime.php

Tap water is ok if chlorine content is low or if fish are hardy enough. I don't like taking that risk, so i use Prime. Besides it helps break toxic nitrite as well.

1000L tank!!! Whoa! Please put up a pic Sir.

Bare minimum would be a healthy bio filtration setup

[kvish]

My first fish tragedy. Three of my fish died after changing water. I use regular tank water. I have done such change earlier and this is the first time I saw them die in an instant.

I have a fluval edge aquarium. I'm planning to get cichlids (2 pairs) this time. Is there anything that I should be awaren? I have never kept cichlids before.

[deathwalkr]

Originally Posted by kvish

My first fish tragedy. Three of my fish died after changing water. I use regular tank water. I have done such change earlier and this is the first time I saw them die in an instant.

I have a fluval edge aquarium. I'm planning to get cichlids (2 pairs) this time. Is there anything that I should be awaren? I have never kept cichlids before.

Sorry for your loss but please get a water conditioner like Seachem Prime. Piece of mind.

What are the dimensions of the tank? And what exactly do you mean by the cichlids you plan to get? They are a large family

[V.Narayan]

Originally Posted by deathwalkr

Sir, you put me on too high a pedestal

And deservedly so. Your knowledge is outstanding.

You can read more about Seachem Prime on their website:
https://www.seachem.com/prime.php

Thanks. Am checking them out.

1000L tank!!! Whoa! Please put up a pic Sir

.
Some photos below. External measurements of the thick glass are 1.80m L x 0.9m W x 1.2m H. So allowing for inner dimensions and the gravel etc and the 10 cms gap to the top I think it must carry about 1300 litres.



deathwalker, please could you help me identify this fish. Bought it a month back. Seems to have settled down with the cichlids.