[shifu]

Originally Posted by Thad E Ginathom

Do you mean the bottom of the door itself? There is the possibility of rust starting on the inside of a door.

Yes, it is possible. I guess if the paint isn't done properly and if water starts accumulating, then this is the result...

[Kosfactor]

Originally Posted by RJK

Detailing experts,

What is the best way to get rid of tar spots that stick to the lower section of doors and the running board due to monsoon? I can feel the roughness when I run my hand across the door & fender panels.

Use some diesel and rub it off carefully. Make sure to wash the diesel away with shampoo water and dry it afterwards.

[RJK]

Originally Posted by Kosfactor

Use some diesel and rub it off carefully. Make sure to wash the diesel away with shampoo water and dry it afterwards.

Doesn’t diesel kill the clear coat of paint? It’s our new Toyota Camry and I don’t want to ruin the paint. I’ll try to post a photo of the same, if it gets captured. It’s the tiny little muck spots mixed with tar (apparently) that’s stuck. Quite normal it seems during monsoon

[Kosfactor]

Originally Posted by RJK

Doesn’t diesel kill the clear coat of paint? It’s our new Toyota Camry and I don’t want to ruin the paint. I’ll try to post a photo of the same, if it gets captured. It’s the tiny little muck spots mixed with tar (apparently) that’s stuck. Quite normal it seems during monsoon

You don't keep the paint soaked in diesel for long, spray > clean up the tar> wash away the diesel. You can apply a coat of wax if you are worried about your clear coat but our cars get lots of diesel spillage and paint is just fine.

[pravarag]

Hi everyone, I've been using 3M car wash shampoo and car polish ( 3 times in a year) from last two years for my Ford Freestyle (Canyon Ridge). So my both 3M products are exhausted now and I'm looking to switch to other options. I know there are numerous detailing guides, suggestions available under this thread but it's become quite confusing for me on which to choose .

I've listed out few options that I may go next,

1) Turtle products:
Turtle Wax Carnauba Wash & Wax, followed by
Turtle Wax ICE Seal and Shine spray or Turtle Wax Super Hard Shell Finish Liquid Wax

2) 3M & Turtle
3M car shampoo, followed by
3M car polish and then Turtle Wax ICE Seal and Shine spray

3) Wavex Products:
Wavex car wash shampoo, followed by
Wavex Caranuba Wax

4) 3M or Turtle with Sonax Wax
3M Car Wash shampoo or Turtle Caranuba Wash & Wax, follwed by
Sonax High-Speed speciality Wax

I've not given much thought about using the complete line of Sonax products (like Sonax shampoo, car polish and wax) but if anyone has few suggestions around it, would love to go for

Also, is using Car polish necessary if I'm using any of the Car wax?

[neo_narender]

Originally Posted by Thad E Ginathom

any bare-metal area caused by scratches or dings, on any car, will rust if not attended to promptly.

Hi,
Do you think I need to address the below scratch on my car which happened recently, to avoid rusting in future?





Also, a question to people owning a Skoda, how much does it cost to get it done at Skoda Service?

Thank you,
Neo

[Thad E Ginathom]

Originally Posted by neo_narender

Hi,
Do you think I need to address the below scratch on my car which happened recently, to avoid rusting in future?

Can't be sure, but looks like you may be through to the metal. It would really restore the looks, of course if you get it fixed!

Also, a question to people owning a Skoda, how much does it cost to get it done at Skoda Service?

For VW, a couple of years back, I was paying 7k per panel for denting and painting. No dent? About half that. A year a go, I paid the same, 7k, to my local respected FNG

[Simhi]

Originally Posted by RJK

Doesn’t diesel kill the clear coat of paint? It’s our new Toyota Camry and I don’t want to ruin the paint. I’ll try to post a photo of the same, if it gets captured. It’s the tiny little muck spots mixed with tar (apparently) that’s stuck. Quite normal it seems during monsoon

I faced similar issue and used Diesel to clean the area. Wash the area after 5 minutes and apply wax. Refer to my post with pictures - https://www.team-bhp.com/forum/techn...ml#post4685676 (A superb Car cleaning, polishing & detailing guide)

[RJK]

Originally Posted by Kosfactor

You don't keep the paint soaked in diesel for long, spray > clean up the tar> wash away the diesel. You can apply a coat of wax if you are worried about your clear coat but our cars get lots of diesel spillage and paint is just fine.

Originally Posted by Simhi

I faced similar issue and used Diesel to clean the area. Wash the area after 5 minutes and apply wax. Refer to my post with pictures - https://www.team-bhp.com/forum/techn...ml#post4685676 (A superb Car cleaning, polishing & detailing guide)

Thanks Simhi and Kosfactor. I will try out with diesel and let you guys know how it goes. I will not be doing it until monsoon is completely over in Bombay.

[neo_narender]

Originally Posted by Thad E Ginathom

Can't be sure, but looks like you may be through to the metal. It would really restore the looks, of course if you get it fixed!
For VW, a couple of years back, I was paying 7k per panel for denting and painting. No dent? About half that. A year a go, I paid the same, 7k, to my local respected FNG

Thank you so much for your quick response. I will ask around with any FNG & Skoda ASS & get it fixed soon.
Honestly, 3-4k doesn't sound too bad if it can restore to factory quality.

Previously I got my bumpers touched up (filled in putty, sanding & two coats of paint, missed clear coat), which charged me ₹1,000. But as this is a rear left door which is metal, this would need a clear coat to not stand out, so I gotta look at other places rather than that particular FNG.

Does anyone from Hyderabad here, know any reputed FNGs who can do a neat job? I mean do the clear coat, concentrate the area with high temp, then wet sanding, the works? Would highly appreciate it.

Thank you,
Neo

[AJ56]

Originally Posted by RJK

Doesn’t diesel kill the clear coat of paint? It’s our new Toyota Camry and I don’t want to ruin the paint. I’ll try to post a photo of the same, if it gets captured. It’s the tiny little muck spots mixed with tar (apparently) that’s stuck. Quite normal it seems during monsoon

Diesel is a solvent that will break your paint down if left on the surface for some time, please use dedicated detailing products like simple tar and glue removers to do the job. It’s very straightforward, spray on, let it dwel until you see the tar begin to break down and flow and then wipe off, use a good brand like Carpro/Gyeon/3M etc. Tar removers are strong solvents (but designed and safe for use on paint) that will strip any wax/sealant so reapply in those areas.

Regarding those who’ve said it’s fine to use, no it’s not. Just because it won’t immediately start stripping clearcoat doesn’t mean it’s best practice or even recommended. Certain solvents may not cause any visible damage but they can cause the clear to swell or change properties like hardness and the effects will not be visible immediately or even after a month but it’ll have an impact on the paint systems long term life and durability. Cheers.

[ashis89]

How much paint damage from diesel are we talking about? Fuel spills many a times when refueling and yet, I haven't seen any damage on cars (or even trucks/buses) around the fuel filler.

[AJ56]

Originally Posted by pravarag

suggestions available under this thread but it's become quite confusing for me on which to choose .

I've listed out few options that I may go next,

1) Turtle products:
Turtle Wax Carnauba Wash & Wax, followed by
Turtle Wax ICE Seal and Shine spray or Turtle Wax Super Hard Shell Finish Liquid Wax

2) 3M & Turtle
3M car shampoo, followed by
3M car polish and then Turtle Wax ICE Seal and Shine spray

3) Wavex Products:
Wavex car wash shampoo, followed by
Wavex Caranuba Wax

4) 3M or Turtle with Sonax Wax
3M Car Wash shampoo or Turtle Caranuba Wash & Wax, follwed by
Sonax High-Speed speciality Wax

Also, is using Car polish necessary if I'm using any of the Car wax?

A polish is a mild abrasive designed to remove fine imperfections in the paint like swirls/fine scratches, it’s a very tiring process by hand and the results aren’t as uniform or nearly as good as what you’d get with even a basic machine, but still it can be done. A polish does not protect your paint, it’s only purpose is to improve gloss by removing fine imperfections.

A wax/sealant is an LSP (last step product) designed to protect your paint from all the environmental elements like tree sap, sunshine, hard water deposits, etc. waxes/sealants won’t remove any swirls in the paint but can fill in minor defects temporarily to boost gloss. polishing is optional but protection is not and you should be reapplying these as and when you see a drop in performance (water beading behaviour is a good rule of thumb).

For shampoo 3M/Turtle are both good and get the job done without issue, select either. I personally found Turtle had a little more lubricity than 3M. With Turtle stick to the ICE line of products if you want the best quality.

For protection go with the Turtle ICE Seal and Shine paint sealant it’s head and shoulders above the rest, it’s second only to Soft 99 Fuso Coat in terms of durability.

Keep in mind you should do a 20% IPA (isopropyl alcohol) wipe prior to applying any form of paint protection to ensure you get the best life of out it by ensuring a virgin paint surface. If you feel the paint is rough post wash then it has bonded contaminants that require claying to remove safely, in case you decide to polish by hand then again claying is highly recommended in order to avoid grinding bonded contaminants further into the paint as it can leave deeper scratches behind.

General order followed is: Wash-Clay-Polish-IPA-Protect

Simplified: Wash-IPA-Protect

If you are layering different paint protection products on top of each other, you always apply the more durable product first followed by the less durable one on top. Cheers.

[ssjr0498]

I would suggest you use SONAX. German made products, extremely good products which are silicone free. Also, there shampoo has a tinge of gloss which gives the car a beautiful shine, in just a wash. It's ph neutral so it is good on your paint and good on your hands as well!

Originally Posted by pravarag

Hi everyone, I've been using 3M car wash shampoo and car polish ( 3 times in a year) from last two years for my Ford Freestyle (Canyon Ridge). So my both 3M products are exhausted now and I'm looking to switch to other options. I know there are numerous detailing guides, suggestions available under this thread but it's become quite confusing for me on which to choose .

I've listed out few options that I may go next,

1) Turtle products:
Turtle Wax Carnauba Wash & Wax, followed by
Turtle Wax ICE Seal and Shine spray or Turtle Wax Super Hard Shell Finish Liquid Wax

2) 3M & Turtle
3M car shampoo, followed by
3M car polish and then Turtle Wax ICE Seal and Shine spray

3) Wavex Products:
Wavex car wash shampoo, followed by
Wavex Caranuba Wax

4) 3M or Turtle with Sonax Wax
3M Car Wash shampoo or Turtle Caranuba Wash & Wax, follwed by
Sonax High-Speed speciality Wax

I've not given much thought about using the complete line of Sonax products (like Sonax shampoo, car polish and wax) but if anyone has few suggestions around it, would love to go for

Also, is using Car polish necessary if I'm using any of the Car wax?

[robincsamuel]

I’ve been using Proklear RAW Xtreme CX waterless wash for the past six months and noticed my finger tips getting dry/cracked/peeling.

I’m not sure if it has anything to do with the product but I can’t think of anything else. My left hand fingers are absolutely fine.

Would like to know if anyone else had a similar experience. Also, can it be something like I’m using a wrong dilution ratio and thus more concentrated solution?