[tharian]

Originally Posted by ChoosetoCruze

.

Let’s hope no damage was caused due to any inadvertent overheating - https://www.cargurus.com/Cars/Discussion-t2559_ds546035

The engine didn’t overheat and the car wasn’t driven, it was in idle for few minutes to remove air in the system after replacing the coolant.

What I had a doubt about was if the fan is suppposed to spin or not in idle, without AC.

[ChoosetoCruze]

Originally Posted by tharian

The engine didn’t overheat and the car wasn’t driven, it was in idle for few minutes to remove air in the system after replacing the coolant.

What I had a doubt about was if the fan is suppposed to spin or not in idle, without AC.

Oh my bad, I interpreted your earlier post as you drove the car.

Without the AC on, the coolant temperature sensor should signal the cooling fans on when the temperature reaches ~ 80C.

Since the car wasn’t driven, I don’t think you have anything to worry about.

You can perform a confidence test by letting the engine idle (with the radiator cap on) without the AC on, and wait for the cooling fans to kick in. If they do, they are working as designed. If they don’t at all, further investigation is required with a good scan tool to test your coolant temperature reading.

[skdking]

Originally Posted by ChoosetoCruze

Oh my bad, I interpreted your earlier post as you drove the car.

Without the AC on, the coolant temperature sensor should signal the cooling fans on when the temperature reaches ~ 80C.

Since the car wasn’t driven, I don’t think you have anything to worry about.

You can perform a confidence test by letting the engine idle (with the radiator cap on) without the AC on, and wait for the cooling fans to kick in. If they do, they are working as designed. If they don’t at all, further investigation is required with a good scan tool to test your coolant temperature reading.

Dear Cruze and other friends,

My car's AC refuses to work during hot parts of the day. It works fine during morings and evenings.

I am being told that it is due to insufficient cooling.

Can I please be guided on what to do?

[ashis89]

I have a peculiar problem to report. My WagonR engine had a busted gasket due to overheating. The head, gasket and a couple of valves were replaced after inspecting the damage. Details can be found in the post below.

https://www.team-bhp.com/forum/long-...ml#post5197950

After this replacement, I observe an issue with starting. The cold start of the day is normal. However after running for few kms, every crank is long and the engine starts with some hesitation. As if the battery is dying. I also observed a slightly irregular idle when the AC is on. Due to lack of a temp gauge (), I can't figure out if the engine is heating up.

I did doubt the battery which is 4.5 yr old Amaron. But the battery guys checked it twice and certified it to be in good condition. They even cleaned the terminals and applied petroleum jelly. After testing, they did a bunch of cold starts and the car started fine. But after driving for a while, the starting issue persists.

The car has been driven 10-20 kms in a day within city (no highway), with and without AC. Any leads would be appreciated before I send the car to the workshop again.

[tharian]

A peculiar issue cropped up on my diesel Aspire that has run 37k kms.

On a recent 1000 kms round trip over 4 days, on the last 50 kms, the engine started feeling sluggish after every gear change, be it upshift or downshift. This was with gentle accelerator input and when flooring the pedal, it took a while for the turbo to kick in, which was unusual. My car was remapped almost 30k kms back and the turbo lag is almost nil. This kind of felt like the stock map in comparison.
When this was happening, I noticed the coolant temperature which is normally at 80-81c was at 86c and not dropping. It was only after I reached city limits and switched off the AC that it went back to 81c. I can make out the initial power delivery has become sluggish for sure. I am not sure if this was to do with fuel quality although I had topped up from a fairly large pump on the highway and this occurred around the half a tank mark.

The EGR is blanked off as well. Any pointers on what I could check.

[Aroy]

Originally Posted by tharian

A peculiar issue cropped up on my diesel Aspire that has run 37k kms.

On a recent 1000 kms round trip over 4 days, on the last 50 kms, the engine started feeling sluggish after every gear change, be it upshift or downshift. This was with gentle accelerator input and when flooring the pedal, it took a while for the turbo to kick in, which was unusual. My car was remapped almost 30k kms back and the turbo lag is almost nil. This kind of felt like the stock map in comparison.
When this was happening, I noticed the coolant temperature which is normally at 80-81c was at 86c and not dropping. It was only after I reached city limits and switched off the AC that it went back to 81c. I can make out the initial power delivery has become sluggish for sure. I am not sure if this was to do with fuel quality although I had topped up from a fairly large pump on the highway and this occurred around the half a tank mark.

The EGR is blanked off as well. Any pointers on what I could check.

Looks like your engine is overheating.

Check if the turbo kicks in as before after the engine has cooled off, may be next morning. If so, then there is a problem with cooling, either the radiator is blocked or the temperature sensor is malfunctioning.

[Kosfactor]

Originally Posted by tharian

My car was remapped almost 30k kms back and the turbo lag is almost nil. This kind of felt like the stock map in comparison..

Assuming there is no check engine light.

If you do not see any smoke from the exhaust at idle but you do see smoke from the exhaust under normal driving - check for all the air intake hoses to see if they have some leak.

[tharian]

Originally Posted by Aroy

Looks like your engine is overheating.

Check if the turbo kicks in as before after the engine has cooled off, may be next morning. If so, then there is a problem with cooling, either the radiator is blocked or the temperature sensor is malfunctioning.

When I took it out this morning after few days of not using the car, it felt normal. But I could still feel there is some power missing. It is difficult to make out in city driving.

Originally Posted by Kosfactor

Assuming there is no check engine light.

If you do not see any smoke from the exhaust at idle but you do see smoke from the exhaust under normal driving - check for all the air intake hoses to see if they have some leak.

No smoke on idle, but there was slight smoke when I was trying to get some speed when this was happening. Normally there is a puff of smoke when accelerating which is normal, this was more like continuous light smoke. I had checked all the intake plumbing and tightened the clamps as well.
I Have dropped off the car for the annual service and will take it for a spin after I get it back to check if the issue is still there as I have asked them to check the radiator for blocks and intake leaks.

[Swapnil4585]

A comparison of two similar age Altis (1ZZ FE 1800 cc engine).

As per Toyota, the normal / optimum operating range for this engine is 89 - 95 degree Celsius.

My car (12+ years old), whose radiator is periodically cleaned and coolant refilled, registers a temperature in the 86 to 95 degree range.

A friend's similar car, whose radiator isn't serviced regularly or coolant isn't replaced in many years, reads at 76 to 85.

There's no drop in the level of coolant in my car and the fan kicks in whenever it needs to. Only thing is that my last refill happened in last lockdown wherein I did not have access to the Toyota premixed coolant, hence a non Toyota coolant was used with water in a ratio of 75% water and 25% coolant.

Anything to do here?

[sagarpadaki]

Originally Posted by Swapnil4585

Only thing is that my last refill happened in last lockdown wherein I did not have access to the Toyota premixed coolant, hence a non Toyota coolant was used with water in a ratio of 75% water and 25% coolant.

Anything to do here?

If your car is running as per Toyota spec, nothing to worry.

But you have mixed existing Toyota premix with a non premix coolant. This can be a cause of concern if the new coolant is not of the same type as that of the old coolant. Think of mixing blood of different group types. If both coolant are of different chemical composition, it can gel and clog or worse corrode the engine block. Suggest you drain the old coolant, flush it with distilled water and fill in premixed coolant from Toyota. This is the only right way to do it if you have mixed coolant of different types.

Check below links for more info

https://www.team-bhp.com/forum/techn...s-colours.html (Types of Coolants and debunking myths associated with grades & colours)

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=OJZLMIl6XPo

[Swapnil4585]

Originally Posted by sagarpadaki

If your car is running as per Toyota spec, nothing to worry.

But you have mixed existing Toyota premix with a non premix coolant. This can be a cause of concern if the new coolant is not of the same type as that of the old coolant. Think of mixing blood of different group types. If both coolant are of different chemical composition, it can gel and clog or worse corrode the engine block. Suggest you drain the old coolant, flush it with distilled water and fill in premixed coolant from Toyota. This is the only right way to do it if you have mixed coolant of different types.

I have not mixed Toyota + non Toyota.

What is filled after radiator cleaning is altogether non Toyota. In a ratio of 75/25.

Whereas the Toyota premix is 50/50.

The ambient temperature in my region as of today is already above 40. Is it that more content of the "coolant lubricant" in the Toyota premix helps to keep the temperatures lower?

[sagarpadaki]

Originally Posted by Swapnil4585

I have not mixed Toyota + non Toyota.

What is filled after radiator cleaning is altogether non Toyota. In a ratio of 75/25.

Whereas the Toyota premix is 50/50.

The ambient temperature in my region as of today is already above 40. Is it that more content of the "coolant lubricant" in the Toyota premix helps to keep the temperatures lower?

Water:Coolant ratio of 75:25 is not the right ratio . It should be minimum 50:50. and in very cold climates can go as much as 30:70.

[Abhineet Singh]

Hi Everyone,

Have a peculiar incident to share. Was travelling from Delhi to Shimla recently. Till Murthal, the A4 was running perfectly fine (actually fine could be a misnomer as the traffic was neck-to-neck because of the ongoing construction), but there was no heating issue.

After Murthal, the car's temperature gauge suddenly reached the max sign. I decided to stop the car and look for coolant leakage. My car has been giving me coolant issues for sometime now. There was virtually no coolant, so it was decided to top-up the coolant. As Audi Chandigarh was way far, we decided to buy something from the nearby market.

The car behaved perfectly fine till Chandigarh and we were constantly doing speed in the range of 80-100 kmph. We took a halt at Chandigarh and the temperature gauge went nuts again. We saw that there was some visible leakage from the engine. We went to a local mechanic, who was unable to find the fault. Since it snowed in Shimla a few days earlier, we decided to head to Shimla, and the car was driven continuously at 30 kmph (setup the internal speed alert at 30 kmph only).

The car stayed put in Shimla for the next four days. We started early morning to Delhi after that. There was no leakage now. We had filled the tank with water, and has spare water bottles with us if things went haywire. But, to our utter surprise, the car did not trouble us at all. The speed at which we started was 30 kmph, and we gradually increased it by 10 kmph after watching the temperature gauge. By the time we were at Eastern Peripheral Expressway, we were doing 80 kmph without any temperature issue.

The car was taken to World of Service at Sector-63, Noida. Mr. Anupam (who is also a TBHP member) informed that the fans inside the radiator broke.

Can someone explain how did this happen? And why was there no temperature issue when we were increasing our speed gradually enroute Delhi?

[pram_ind]

Originally Posted by Abhineet Singh

Have a peculiar incident to share. Was travelling from Delhi to Shimla recently. Till Murthal, the A4 was running perfectly fine (actually fine could be a misnomer as the traffic was neck-to-neck because of the ongoing construction), but there was no heating issue.

On Highways, where brakes are not applied, above a certain speed , the wind naturally cools down the radiator.

I had the same issue, while returning from ooty. My Ford Fiesta ( now sold), started heating while descending the Masinagudi ghats. On checking found the Radiator fan was bust. Slowly reached the descent, and filled water in radiator. Kept the speed between 50-80 without AC, and was able to reach Mysore, where a new fan was replaced.

[Abhineet Singh]

Originally Posted by Abhineet Singh

The car was taken to World of Service at Sector-63, Noida. Mr. Anupam (who is also a TBHP member) informed that the fans inside the radiator broke.

An update: The issue was that the fins inside the water pump broke. Not the radiator. Mea culpa.