[RBT]

Hi
Just gone through you ordeal. The Clutch System of your car is required to be inspected on the vehicle by first self driving and feeling the problem and then narrating the same to the service adviser to either drive or ask any QC person to drive the same so that the problems faced by you are much more authenticated for further action.

The reasons can be any thing from sticking or binding in the pedal linkage, cable, cross shaft, or pivot ball are common causes. Sometimes a blockage or worn seals in the hydraulic system can also cause a hard clutch.

[PatienceWins]

My Getz 1.3 stopped moving while in gear (just accelerating) and I got it towed to the nearest service centre. The car was serviced yesterday and they said the clutch was fine albeit a bit hard. As per the service centre, the clutch plate, pressure plate, master and slave clutch cylinder need to be replaced - quote of 23k. I am not keen on replacing the master and slave cylinder as I plan to sell the car next year. They are recommending to replace it too as the car has run 97,000 kms. What do you guys recommend?

Is it required to replace all the parts? I have requested them to call me once they dismantle the clutch. Thanks

[Rahul Bhalgat]

Originally Posted by PatienceWins

As per the service centre, the clutch plate, pressure plate, master and slave clutch cylinder need to be replaced - quote of 23k. I am not keen on replacing the master and slave cylinder as I plan to sell the car next year. They are recommending to replace it too as the car has run 97,000 kms. What do you guys recommend?

Is it required to replace all the parts? I have requested them to call me once they dismantle the clutch. Thanks

If you are not retaining the car for the future, then you don't need to replace the master cylinder and the slave cylinder.

If you plan to retain the car, then it is advisable to replace at least the slave cylinder even if it is in working condition right now.

By the way, I am replying long after you posted. What did you finally do?

[pg83]

Hello everybody!
I have few questions regarding my Chevrolet Sail NB Diesel that has done 1.6 Lac KM till date without any clutch replacement:

• What is the life of gear oil when the manufacturer says it will last life long, as my car has munched quite a good number and yet the gear oil has never been replaced. On enquiring with ASS, they always ask me get it done when clutch is replaced.
  
• Of all the points in the check list for troubleshooting bad clutch, my cars clutch shows none. So will it be wise to get the clutch replaced as preventive maintenance?

Thank you in advance

[PatienceWins]

Originally Posted by Rahul Bhalgat

If you are not retaining the car for the future, then you don't need to replace the master cylinder and the slave cylinder.

If you plan to retain the car, then it is advisable to replace at least the slave cylinder even if it is in working condition right now.

By the way, I am replying long after you posted. What did you finally do?

Thanks for your response. I replaced them too. Will be using the car for atleast 1 year.

[PearlJam]

I have a Verna 4S 2015 that's run 56000 kms. I have a strange problem.

The clutch gets tight after driving on the highway, after some 150 kms. There is no slippage, shudders, or any shifting issues. No loss of power. Everything is fine, just that clutch pedal gets tight with grinding kind of feel after 150 kms. There is no problem in city driving. Problem goes away on entering city traffic from highway.

I got a bleeding done, and Hyundai ASS says if it repeats, then clutch has to be replaced. That seems false and a possible scam alert.

Could it be an issue with the master cylinder? Slave cylinder? Both? If so, is it a straightforward job to get it replaced? Thanks!

[Rahul Bhalgat]

Originally Posted by PearlJam

I have a Verna 4S 2015 that's run 56000 kms. I have a strange problem.

The clutch gets tight after driving on the highway, after some 150 kms. There is no slippage, shudders, or any shifting issues. No loss of power. Everything is fine, just that clutch pedal gets tight with grinding kind of feel after 150 kms. There is no problem in city driving. Problem goes away on entering city traffic from highway.

I got a bleeding done, and Hyundai ASS says if it repeats, then clutch has to be replaced. That seems false and a possible scam alert.

Could it be an issue with the master cylinder? Slave cylinder? Both? If so, is it a straightforward job to get it replaced? Thanks!

Refer to the following link on the forum:
https://www.team-bhp.com/forum/techn...ing-while.html (Clutch gets stiff during nonstop driving for a while)

BHPian devsoftech had reported a similar problem. Please refer to his post and to the reply from D-BHPian SS-Traveller.
https://www.team-bhp.com/forum/membe...traveller.html


Both possible reasons predicted by SS-Traveller included minor slippage of clutch. Do read.

Also please check if your car is consuming the brake fluid (also used for the clutch).

[sagarpadaki]

Originally Posted by PearlJam

I have a Verna 4S 2015 that's run 56000 kms. I have a strange problem.

The clutch gets tight after driving on the highway, after some 150 kms. There is no slippage, shudders, or any shifting issues. No loss of power. Everything is fine, just that clutch pedal gets tight with grinding kind of feel after 150 kms. There is no problem in city driving. Problem goes away on entering city traffic from highway.

I got a bleeding done, and Hyundai ASS says if it repeats, then clutch has to be replaced. That seems false and a possible scam alert.

Could it be an issue with the master cylinder? Slave cylinder? Both? If so, is it a straightforward job to get it replaced? Thanks!

It is the slave cylinder. Replace just the slave cylinder and get the clutch bled. It will become fine.

The HASS is scamming you. Clutch replacement is their most popular scam

[Jeroen]

Originally Posted by sagarpadaki

It is the slave cylinder. Replace just the slave cylinder and get the clutch bled. It will become fine.

Why do you think it would be the slave cilinder? What can go wrong in the slave cylinder that makes the clutch go tight after a while?

Did you check the previous posters advise and the link to SS Travellers advise?

Jeroen

[sagarpadaki]

Originally Posted by Jeroen

Why do you think it would be the slave cilinder? What can go wrong in the slave cylinder that makes the clutch go tight after a while?

Did you check the previous posters advise and the link to SS Travellers advise?

Jeroen

No, I did not check SS Travellers advise.

I can say it is the slave cylinder from personal experience on my Hyundai. Faced the exact same issue and the culprit was the slave cylinder.

The slave cylinder consists of a spring loaded piston and a rubber boot. When this problem occurs, the spring movement is not free and results in hard pedal. This restriction in spring movement occurs when hot and becomes normal when cooled. However, I do not know the root cause of it.

[Jeroen]

Originally Posted by sagarpadaki

I can say it is the slave cylinder from personal experience on my Hyundai. Faced the exact same issue and the culprit was the slave cylinder.

The slave cylinder consists of a spring loaded piston and a rubber boot. When this problem occurs, the spring movement is not free and results in hard pedal. This restriction in spring movement occurs when hot and becomes normal when cooled. However, I do not know the root cause of it.

Thanks. It is difficult to understand why that could cause any problems. To your point, the slave cylinder is a very simple part. In many cases it does not even have the spring. Just a piston in a cylinder. The force exerted on it through the clutch pedal and the master cylinder are actually considerable. So it would actually be very difficult to pick up up any problems in the movement, without actually damaging it.

How the spring could cause such a problem is an even bigger mystery to me. I don’t know if you had a look at this spring, but they tend to be very simple springs and not particular strong either.

Very happy to hear it solved your problem. However, more likely in your case it was to do with the hydraulic fluid, which would have to have been replenished, if not completely refreshed, when they swapped the slave cylinder.

When diagnosing a problem I think it makes more sense to think it through based on the likelihood of things going wrong. The biggest problems with slave cylinders tends to be leakage over time as they get old and worn.

Jeroen

Jeroen

[PearlJam]

Thanks to all of you who replied, really appreciate it!

The slave cylinder point does have merit. After reading and getting inspiration from this thread:

https://www.team-bhp.com/forum/long-...ml#post4941054 (2011 Hyundai i20 Asta. EDIT: 62000 km up & EPS module changed twice)

I checked out a couple of videos from Hyundai youtubers, and 2 of them mentioned the slave cylinder.

Today I got a full bleeding done from all 4 wheels, and replaced the brake fluid. It was almost 3 years since the fluid was replaced. The clutch has become softer (I am pretty sure I am not imagining it!). Not that the clutch was hard in city driving at all, but it's even more softer now. I still need to confirm that the original issue, which happens only on very long drives, is resolved.

I wanted to replace the slave cylinder too, but unfortunately they didn't have it in stock. If the problem is still not resolved, that will be my next logical action item. It's not an expensive part.

Will keep you all posted, thanks!

[PGA]

My I20 2013 Sportz model had exactly the same problem some time ago. When I visited the A.S.S they advised complete clutch replacement and made an estimate of 33K. I took the car to my friendly neighbourhood mechanic, he diagnosed it to be slave cylinder issue and mentioned that the spares are not available in the open market, he will source it from A.S.S and would let me know for replacement when he is able to get it.

To replicate the snag we had to heat up the car / clutch and during test drive the mechanic drove the car real hard, many times revving up with half clutch, I thought he will burn the clutch but the clutch went completely normal and I have driven about 5K after that without any problem at all, infact yesterday drove almost 100 kms on the highway maintaining more than 90kmph, no issues.

I am inclined to believe, as mentioned by Sagarpadaki, it is some spring sticking up somewhere in the mechanism which got reset to its normal position during that hard handling, good for as long as it lasts.

[FloatingCanvas]

Hi Folks,

My i20 elite (Sep 2014, diesel model) has run 64000 km. It runs 90% within Bangalore, mostly in dense traffic. Since May 2020, my father's been taking it to work, with a driver-cum-attendant from his office coming to drive Dad to work and back.

The clutch used to harden up after driving for about 1.5 - 2 hours in Bangalore traffic. Not too hard, but hard enough to be exhausting. Also, slight sound would come when depressing clutch - probably a spring noise.

Visited HASS in July 2019 (ODO ~ 60,500) for regular service. He said clutch might need greasing and it would be better to do that at next service, along with clutch to be replaced.

I used WD40 near the clutch pedal and near the clutch cylinder near the engine. The noise went away after 2 days. The clutch hardening problem remained. Obviously.

On 10th December, there was tremendous juddering - mainly clutch pedal and a bit of the whole car - upon starting. The clutch pedal was not functioning properly. Engaging the gear, and every single gear change would cause the whole car to vibrate and judder. Called up the HASS and they told me to bring in the car, since the clutch needs to be replaced.

Managed to take the car to the HASS which was about 5 km from home. The moment the SA sat in the car, he knew the clutch was kaput. And told me the higher juddering might also indicate FlyWheel issue.

He quoted me about 28-30K for complete clutch replacement, including the 2 cylinders. And it would take at least 2 days for the work to be completed. He would apprise me about the FlyWheel position later. With no other choice, just left the car for the replacement and walked back home.

He sent the following images about the worn out clutch plates & other parts.









Can you please tell me what would be normal running distance before clutch replacement? And what would be cost of complete clutch replacement for a diesel i20?

Also, since I'm not well versed mechanically, can you kindly tell me what are the points to check/verify to ensure the clutch replacement is done rightly and no pending issues are there? Insofar as I know, the clutch should be much lighter, the travel should be smooth, the half-clutch point should be clean and the gear shift precise.

[Rahul Bhalgat]

Originally Posted by FloatingCanvas

The clutch used to harden up after driving for about 1.5 - 2 hours in Bangalore traffic. Not too hard, but hard enough to be exhausting. Also, slight sound would come when depressing clutch - probably a spring noise.

Can you please tell me what would be normal running distance before clutch replacement? And what would be cost of complete clutch replacement for a diesel i20?

Also, since I'm not well versed mechanically, can you kindly tell me what are the points to check/verify to ensure the clutch replacement is done rightly and no pending issues are there? Insofar as I know, the clutch should be much lighter, the travel should be smooth, the half-clutch point should be clean and the gear shift precise.

Well, if the clutch is used in stop and go traffic in Bangalore for most of the time, 65,000 km life isn't surprising though in someone else may get bit more under somewhat similar conditions.

The fact that the clutch pedal used to harden up after driving for some time indicates overheating due to slippage. The clutch had started slipping at the time.

Try to be there at the time of clutch replacement and insist them to show the new clutch and other parts before fitting. Usually the service area can be seen from the waiting area through a glass partition. So watch and make sure they fit all those new parts.

If the parts used are genuine and if all the required parts are replaced (typically the clutch plate, slave cylinder, release bearing, pressure plate, flywheel), clutch replacement does not go wrong. If you experience a spongy feel on the pedal, tell them to bleed the oil lines (once again).