[JUDA]

Originally Posted by amitk26

The description looks like steering idler adjustment issue.
Go to good TASS and ask to adjust the steering idler nut for equal turning on both sides. And also ask them to check the lower arm nut if it is loose.

But as the issue is only while turning full and going down on uneven surface it can be due to steering idler setting.

Thanks Amit, will get that done at Avanthi Motors on Pune-Nagar road.

[rrsteer]

Originally Posted by shishir11224

Hi everyone
I would like to ask some really strange queries which i dint find the entire safari blog
1) Is there any peeling of dashboard skin ie the silver panel in the dashboard of the lx model?

Yes the silver paint in my Safari has also started to wrap and peel from the sides. But I never really liked that silver thing, I plan to do something similar to the central console like what Steeroid has done to his vehicle

Originally Posted by tsk1979

As for EGR, it only mixes exhaust gas with the inlet, but at idle speeds egr is closed, otherwise you will have the idle surging(like mine still does)

Tanveer so your idle surging problem has still not been rectified? But has it been correctly diagnosed to EGR being the nuisance creator? Have you asked for replacement?

[tsk1979]

No, the problem has lessened, but its still there. I suspect EGR, but service center does not.
Infact I was able to create this problem on a hot engine also. Just rev upto 4000rpm and leave the acc pedal. After coming back to idle rpm., she surges for a minute or so and then everything gets okay.
Cold start surging has definitely lessened.
So they did change some ECU parameters, but I think that cured the symptom, and not the diesease.
I haven't received a call from Tata Motors Ltd yet about feedback. I intend ot give them 9/10 because one problem is still not solved.
Once that happens the service advisor should call me.
Its been a week but no followup call from TML

[shishir11224]

Originally Posted by dkamath

Had mentioned about the fuse blowing up 3 times till date, and also that am using 30A fuse now. The technicians were puzzled by this and found no reason why the 25A fuse has to blow, and also why a 30A fuse is to be used. They asked if there's a pattern involved in the blow outs. The first fuse blew at abut 7.3K kms, followed by 2 blow outs between that reading and about 11.5K kms (30A fuse was added from then on). They have put the 25A fuse back in place and asked me to report to them when it blows in future. Seems to me nobody has reported this issue in M'lore, assming in all probability that AC has to overwork in such tropical climate.

Hi

Dkamath am ahead of you with 6 blown fuses but still I insist on a 25 amp fuse just scared might end up burning up the wires using a higher amp fuse.Let me know if the 30 amp fuse works fine.

And about the oil issue which I had mentioned in my earlier post I went and discussed about the oil issue again. They recomended me synthetic oil which the company claims doesnt affect the warranty.When asked why not mobile delvac they told when a part fails the company looks into the vehicle service history and when they find the oil used is not of the recomended brand the company doesnt honour the claim and someone please let me know whats the price of castrol synthetic oil the tass guys are sayin it costs 1000 PER litre

[rb2399]

My truck has clocked ~ 37 K and I had clutch bleeding done during 30K service.
Now here is a peculiar problem: After prolonged driving for say 2-3 hours, if I stop completely (at the toll gates e.g.), I feel the clutch juddering when I release the clutch after engaging in 1st gear. This is similar to the feeling in State Transport buses when they leave from standstill.
Also I wanted to know what's the normal practice other 2.2 drivers follow when moving from standstill?. Do you rev the engine past 1000 odd rpm and simultaneously release the clutch OR you just use the clutch for moving?

[gowda79]

Originally Posted by shishir11224

Hi

but still I insist on a 25 amp fuse just scared might end up burning up the wires using a higher amp fuse.Let me know if the 30 amp fuse works fine.

No problem you can use the 30A fuse and this is the same solution used by many of the 2.2 users.

[tsk1979]

Originally Posted by rb2399

My truck has clocked ~ 37 K and I had clutch bleeding done during 30K service.
Now here is a peculiar problem: After prolonged driving for say 2-3 hours, if I stop completely (at the toll gates e.g.), I feel the clutch juddering when I release the clutch after engaging in 1st gear. This is similar to the feeling in State Transport buses when they leave from standstill.
Also I wanted to know what's the normal practice other 2.2 drivers follow when moving from standstill?. Do you rev the engine past 1000 odd rpm and simultaneously release the clutch OR you just use the clutch for moving?

If I am moving slowly, I just release the clutch, no acc input. Howerver if I am accenrating, I release clutch, and just near the end of clutch release start giving throttle input.

[NiTviN]

I have a recurring problem of water drop lets accumulating in my right side headlamp enclosure. TASS have replaced the whole console 2 times already (under warranty) but the problem keeps coming back. The technician at TASS told me that its a common problem in some Safari's. The technician also said that if there is a minute crack on the hadlamp cover, it can happen. However that doesnt seem to be an issue with mine since its already changes twice.

I wonder why it happens with only the right side head lamp. The left side is perfectly fine. Has anyone else faced this issue? Any ideas or solution for this?

[dadu]

Originally Posted by rb2399

My truck has clocked ~ 37 K and I had clutch bleeding done during 30K service.
Now here is a peculiar problem: After prolonged driving for say 2-3 hours, if I stop completely (at the toll gates e.g.), I feel the clutch juddering when I release the clutch after engaging in 1st gear. This is similar to the feeling in State Transport buses when they leave from standstill.
Also I wanted to know what's the normal practice other 2.2 drivers follow when moving from standstill?. Do you rev the engine past 1000 odd rpm and simultaneously release the clutch OR you just use the clutch for moving?

I have read about this in a lot of vehicles, including Audi's, BMW & Subaru. Its a difficult thing to diagnose as it involves the the clutch assembly and sometimes the flywheel itself.

A bit of adjustment in the clutch play etc also helps in resolving the judder. I would say get it checked and adjusted first.

Has your clutch become harder over the running, ask them to check using the pressure pedal meter they have. If hard they should replace the pressure plate + clutch under warranty.

Originally Posted by NiTviN

I have a recurring problem of water drop lets accumulating in my right side headlamp enclosure. TASS have replaced the whole console 2 times already (under warranty) but the problem keeps coming back. The technician at TASS told me that its a common problem in some Safari's. The technician also said that if there is a minute crack on the hadlamp cover, it can happen. However that doesnt seem to be an issue with mine since its already changes twice.

I wonder why it happens with only the right side head lamp. The left side is perfectly fine. Has anyone else faced this issue? Any ideas or solution for this?

Do you by any chance get a pressure wash done frequently or use a pipe/ hose yourself, only the right side head lamp getting moisture definitely has some pattern to it, also check if the gap between the bonnet and the right HL assembly is equal to the one present on the left side.

[adc]

Right now we are in the midst of a very strenous journey necessitating the VTT to travel in high stress conditions through bad and very steep roads. This is the last internet connection that I got through Airtel datamodem and as such posting.

The very steep road, with a fully loaded Safari, had the VTT travel at high rpm and 1st gear only for around 45 mts to 1 hour. Around 3-4 places, standing starts on steep roads had to be done as there was not enough place to take the u-turn at one go and needed around 2-3 back and front movement and thus around 2-3 clutch burns happened though briefly.



How will the life of the clutch hold for the remaining part of the journey like another 3 days in similar roads and if with similar clutch burns? Any stranding and it will take around 10-12 days just to salvage the VTT from these places.

As I opened the bonnet after reaching this place, saw that the coolant overflowed - please see the white marks. Is this normal? Of course the engine was under extreme stress due to 1st gear travel at high rpm to maintain momentum and stalling.


Please also see the coolant mark? It is just above the second line and there is another line down, so there is enough coolant?


Also very, very fortunate that I opened the bonnet, the very jarring ride had make that wire that comes out from the filter and turbo charger to become loose and it had come in contact with the fan - very very lucky that it cut through the enclosed wire casing but did not cut through the wire. Have secured it very securely now. Very very lucky!! as any stranding here will take around 7-10 days to extract the VTT and we go to more remote areas now.




Awaiting for some definite replies today itself as i will be leaving this place tmmrw early morning and with no interent[data modem] or phone connection.

[dadu]

Originally Posted by adc

Right now we are in the midst of a very strenous journey necessitating the VTT to travel in high stress conditions through bad and very steep roads. This is the last internet connection that I got through Airtel datamodem and as such posting.

The very steep road, with a fully loaded Safari, had the VTT travel at high rpm and 1st gear only for around 45 mts to 1 hour. Around 3-4 places, standing starts on steep roads had to be done as there was not enough place to take the u-turn at one go and needed around 2-3 back and front movement and thus around 2-3 clutch burns happened though briefly.

How will the life of the clutch hold for the remaining part of the journey like another 3 days in similar roads and if with similar clutch burns? Any stranding and it will take around 10-12 days just to salvage the VTT from these places.

Not to worry, it not uncommon for a 2tonner to have some mild clutch slippages upon steep ascents from standstill. Unless, the clutch smokes (literally), in which case you will need a new clutch but I have seen smoking clutches also working for many miles before giving up.

Originally Posted by adc

As I opened the bonnet after reaching this place, saw that the coolant overflowed - please see the white marks. Is this normal? Of course the engine was under extreme stress due to 1st gear travel at high rpm to maintain momentum and stalling.

Please also see the coolant mark? It is just above the second line and there is another line down, so there is enough coolant?

Coolant marks are also normal, I have seen them in my safari too, upon long straight drives.

Saw the picture you posted but dont know if at that time the Safari had just run in or was cold. The coolant should be at middle mark when cold (standing overnight). If you can see the coolant at the same level when cold, you need to fillup till the middle line.

Originally Posted by adc

Also very, very fortunate that I opened the bonnet, the very jarring ride had make that wire that comes out from the filter and turbo charger to become loose and it had come in contact with the fan - very very lucky that it cut through the enclosed wire casing but did not cut through the wire. Have secured it very securely now. Very very lucky!! as any stranding here will take around 7-10 days to extract the VTT and we go to more remote areas now.

It seems that the clamp has come off, I can see the plastic clamp still attached just near the casing tear. Its a good practice to check at the end of the days drive or in the morning next day for such problems during a streneous drive, everyday.

[tsk1979]

adc, from the pics it appears that coolant leaked through overflow tank, which is fine, sometimes it may happen.
However just to be double sure, open the radiator cap(when cold) and check if its full. Radiator has majority of the coolant in case of the safari.

As for clutch burn, you cannot avoid it in steep hill starts, but keep it to a minimum. If you anticipate a sharp turn, take a wider line as buses do, and maintain speed.

[adc]

Thanks a lot dadu and tsk - so net-net everything is normal right now. Opened the radiator cap and saw it full. The clutch then is okay and should be okay for quite a long time - and thats good news. The journey gets much rougher now and again is very lucky not to have cut the wire though the casing was gone as it was touching the fan.

So all you guys do make sure that bunch of wires remains clamped and secured as once free it tends to go towards the fan. Made it double secured by taping it myself and also clamping it.

Thanks a lot again!!

[anilrs]

From the past three days, I am facing this problem in my Safari.

In the morning, as soon as I turn the ignition to start the engine, all the electronics (stereo, indicators on the screen etc.) goes dead. And the engine does not start at all. No indicators. Even the key's lock/unlock also does not work.

The only way I can start it is, to remove the key, open the driver-side door. When I open the door, immediately all the rest of the doors lock automatically (which normally happens when the car has started and is idling for few seconds).

After this, I have to try 2-3 times, then the ignition works and the car starts.

Any one else has faced similar issue? What could be the problem?

[dadu]

Originally Posted by anilrs

From the past three days, I am facing this problem in my Safari.

In the morning, as soon as I turn the ignition to start the engine, all the electronics (stereo, indicators on the screen etc.) goes dead. And the engine does not start at all. No indicators. Even the key's lock/unlock also does not work.

The only way I can start it is, to remove the key, open the driver-side door. When I open the door, immediately all the rest of the doors lock automatically (which normally happens when the car has started and is idling for few seconds).

After this, I have to try 2-3 times, then the ignition works and the car starts.

Any one else has faced similar issue? What could be the problem?

The symptoms indicate that your battery is the culprit, get it changed (if faulty) or you will be left stranded.

Check if the battery terminals are clamped properly on the terminals, if yes, goto the nearest battery shop and get your battery water checked using the float, it will tell if all battery cells are working properly on not. They will also check the charge using the meter.