[Guna]

There is a fresh problem with my Forester.
There was some 'tuk tuk' sound coming from the rear tire (which synchronized with the tire rotation). I suspected something being stuck/poked in to the tire. When I lifted it up with a jack, the tire seemed alright but I noticed the link rod was bent.
Check the bent link rod on the right side in the attached pics. Even the left one is also not upright.
Now, I suspect that driving with the damaged struts would have caused this.
I want to know if I should just get the link rods fixed or is it really advisable to wait for the new shocks to arrive (which my be a month away). In that case I will be stranded without a car till the whole thing is fixed (shocks+link rods)
Experts, please advice. I have already ordered for new links which should arrive in 2-3 days.

[gotzuk]

From the pics it looks that the sway bar has either shifted to left or has been installed incorrectly.
It probably caused extra stress on the end links, which are flimsy at best, causing it to fail.
You can go ahead and just install the end links. Worn struts will not break them.
Also replace sway bar bushes and realign the sway bar so that the end links are vertically parallel to the tyres.

[Guna]

Originally Posted by gotzuk

From the pics it looks that the sway bar has either shifted to left or has been installed incorrectly.
It probably caused extra stress on the end links, which are flimsy at best, causing it to fail.

Thanks, I was thinking that damaged shocks would have distorted the links but you are suggesting that they are not related to each other.

[gotzuk]

Yes Guna. The end links are just to connect the sway/ anti roll bar to the lower control arms.

[Guna]

Originally Posted by Guna

I noticed the link rod was bent.
Check the bent link rod on the right side in the attached pics. Even the left one is also not upright.

I got the sway bar realigned from a local mechanic.
He also helped with cutting a jammed nut on the rear toe rod, which had prevented me from getting the rear wheels aligned for past few years!
Every time I gave the car for service, I used to insist on loosening the nut and carry out the alignment but Trident Chevy folks were not able to. This time they in fact misinformed me saying the nut was loosened.

[gotzuk]

@Guna did you manage to get OEM end links?

[Guna]

Originally Posted by gotzuk

@Guna did you manage to get OEM end links?

No, I had ordered for the aftermarket links but for some reason it is not shipped yet.
Are you getting yours changed too?

[gotzuk]

Originally Posted by Guna

No, I had ordered for the aftermarket links but for some reason it is not shipped yet.
Are you getting yours changed too?

No. I changed mine a couple of years ago.
Which ones did you order?
Of late, I too have been looking at the aftermarket solid end links,
since the OEM units I currently have, are bent already.

[Guna]

Originally Posted by gotzuk

Which ones did you order?

Febest. But order has been canceled since they don't have stock.

[WRXXX]

Guys,

I have started using my Forester on a regular basis now, but did notice
few issues. May be the long periods of non-use might have attributed to
this. Engine coolant seems to be leaking from the upper radiator hose
connecting to the engine side. I feel there might be a crack and probably
the hose needs replacing. But I want to keep the car running till the parts arrive.

Any prior experiences regarding this? Any short-term fixes till the parts arrive?

Also, when I order for the hose and clips, what other hoses/o-rings/washers
might be useful to order based on your experience?

@IcarusMan I remember you wanted to flush and change the coolant, did you do it? which Coolant did you use and where should I be buying it?

TIA

[WRXXX]

Looks like the problem was with deposits on the engine pipe(aluminium pipe) side and it had created gaps where the radiator hose was seated. A local mechanic closer to my home (Schlick Automobiles) diagnosed it and fixed it.

A cleanup job was done by removing the radiator upper hose and some scraping and putting a rubber sealant around where the hose is seated.

In any case will order and get the radiator upper and lower hoses and keep it handy.

This experience also prompts me to get a duct tape handy in the car :-)
In case the leak was in the middle of the pipe that is so that you can get back from wherever you are.

Thankfully overall repair costed me 200 rupees and I was probably lucky!
But I think, given the nature of this job one can do it themselves too!

[IcarusMan]

Hi WRXXX,

Good to hear it turned out to be an easy/cheap fix. My coolant flush is still pending for various reasons. From my research earlier, I purchased Glysantin G30 from the local Shell station:



I think coolant capacity is about 8 lts. This has to be mixed 50/50 with distilled water.

Gotzuk has some good info about fail-safe T-stats and rad caps.

[Guna]

Following jobs were carried out on my Forester recently

• Leaking Evaporator coil was replaced with an aftermarket evaporator (Spectra Premium 1010044 A/C Evaporator). Costed me around Rs 9000+3000. Local garage in JP Nagar did amazing job to diagnose the leak which the authorized service center folks could not do all these months.
  
• Replaced the driver side power window motor/regulator assembly (same JP nagar garage). Dorman 741-004 costed Rs 17000+500
  
• Clutch was replaced (EXEDY KSB04 OEM Replacement Clutch Kit) at the Trident Chevy. Not too happy with the result as the clutch remains hard and very jerky at the start. Cost: Rs 13000+4000
  
• All 4 link roads (Febest) were replaced as well.

Only major issue that remains is the rear struts, which I am inclined leave it and live with the bumpy ride for some time.

[WRXXX]

Originally Posted by IcarusMan

Hi WRXXX,

From my research earlier, I purchased Glysantin G30 from the local Shell station:


I think coolant capacity is about 8 lts. This has to be mixed 50/50 with distilled water.

Thanks for the suggestion on G30 I did get a litre of this just in case I needed to
top it up. Based on FSM it seems to suggest Coolant tank capacity is around 6.6lts means you have to buy atleast 3.5 lts of G30

Originally Posted by IcarusMan

Gotzuk has some good info about fail-safe T-stats and rad caps.

Got your PM on this. Thanks a lot @gotzuk for sharing this info.
I haven't carefully monitored rad temperatures so far but this replacement
might be worth if it is city only runs.

Originally Posted by Guna

Following jobs were carried out on my Forester recently

• Leaking Evaporator coil was replaced with an aftermarket evaporator (Spectra Premium 1010044 A/C Evaporator). Costed me around Rs 9000+3000. Local garage in JP Nagar did amazing job to diagnose the leak which the authorized service center folks could not do all these months.
• Replaced the driver side power window motor/regulator assembly (same JP nagar garage). Dorman 741-004 costed Rs 17000+500
• Clutch was replaced (EXEDY KSB04 OEM Replacement Clutch Kit) at the Trident Chevy. Not too happy with the result as the clutch remains hard and very jerky at the start. Cost: Rs 13000+4000
• All 4 link roads (Febest) were replaced as well.

Only major issue that remains is the rear struts, which I am inclined leave it and live with the bumpy ride for some time.

Guna, thats a lot of work you have got done outside of CASS!!
And really hats off to those workshop guys for attending to this and fixing it.

Looks like owning a Forester in India needs an ITI degree at minimum too

[Guna]

Originally Posted by WRXXX

And really hats off to those workshop guys for attending to this and fixing it.

Looks like owning a Forester in India needs an ITI degree at minimum too

I am really impressed with these guys. I recommend them for any AC, electrical related issue.
For accessing the evaporator coil, they did not have to open the dash (which I believe is the case in many cars) but they figured how to take it out. I shall post some pictures.