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Originally Posted by rkbharat So that means for newbie like me, I really need not to worry about In-Body or In-Lens AF Motor.
What should be the best lense for Landscape and Portrait/kids/daily photography?
Also how do confirm that the body and lense which I am getting is genuinely new and not a refurbished one? |
Look i personally think its a big deal to have inbody AF, since i like to buy/collect old lenses and having inbody AF means AF compatibility. Without inbody AF a huge list of fantastic lenses get cuts off. For example 50mm f1.8D, 135mm f2 DC, 28mm f1.4D these are some of the best lenses nikon ever produced.
To be honest, i feel D5000 lacks way too much and is not worth the price when you consider for just a little more you can get D90 which is so much more. Major things that i don`t like about D5000 is missing secondary LCD and in-body AF.
Well landscapes is a crazy field, some need UWA lenses like 14-24mm while some need 50mm while some need 300mm. So it changes with the spot. Portrait/kids/Daily, well 50mm and 85mm never disappoint me.
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Originally Posted by navin Today Nikon and Canon ...snip.... |
I was talking when AF systems were developed, means 1980`s.
Also to be honest, i don`t follow the point you are trying to make.
Focussing systems change with each body, more like actual programming for focussing systems change with each body and to be honest there`s quite a lot to it than just the system. There are quite a few things which need calibration.
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Originally Posted by navin 1. I'd prefer the Nikon 55-200VR or 70-300VR lens over the Sigma 70-300. Not that I have used either lenses on a Nikon body but personally I have not had very good expereicne with 3rd party lenses from Tamron or Sigma.
2. Start with the 2 zoom lens kit (18-55/55-250). Once you have a fair idea on which focal lengths you use most then get primes to cover these focal lenghts. Primes use less glass and are hence inherently sharper. GIven teh camera is a D5000 the lenses you can look at (in addition to the 2 zooms above) are the 35/1.8, 50/1.8, 60/2.8 Macro, 85/1.8, 135/2, etc..
3. APS-C DSLRs dont have many landscape options. TO take Landscapes you need a lens that is equivalent of 20mm (35mm equivalent) or smaller. That means on a APS-C sensor you need a you need 16mm or smaller lens. This only leaves the 10-24, 11-16, 12-24 etc.. One caeveat is that Tokina lenses work well with Nikon bodies (Tokina was started by ex-Nikon engineers) so the Tokina ATX-Pro series can prove to be a good option for Nikonians (speaking of which you should register on Nikonians.org as you will get much more information there). The Tokina 11-16/2.8 for example has recieved good reviews.
4. Before you do all that please also get yourself a good bag that can store and carry these lenses in safety and comfort. LowePro, Tamrac, Kata etc make nice bags. In Mumbai you can even get the ThinkTank and other 'exotic' bags. |
1. Reason we call lenses a good or a bad COPY is because each lens IS a COPY of the original lens and varies. It can be a good or a bad copy. In Sigma`s department they have bad Quality Check system in place(if there is any) and its more like luck of draw. Otherwise Sigma has designed some of the best DSLR lenses available in the market.
2. I would rather suggest for him to get Nikon D90 + 18-105mmVR kit and 50mm f1.8. Also 50mm f1.8, 85mm f1.8, 135mm f2 DC won`t autofocus on D5000, they need in-body AF.
3. Like i said above, it depends alot on what classifies as landscape and range varies a lot. Some landscapes need UWA lens while other may require normal lens and some might require Telephoto. Biggest problem is everyone thinks of UWA lens as the lens that can be used to get everything in the picture as it angle of view is such wide. Problem is this is completely wrong thinking and pictures always come bland and lacking punch. UWA lenses need the photographer to get real close and i am less than 10inches of the subject and the pictures come out with a punch to knockout the viewer.
4. I agree, get a decent bag but no need to spend too much. Personally I prefer pelican and Lowepro but Nationalgeographic and kata are also very good.
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Originally Posted by navin For a beginner a 18-55/55-250 combo is a good place to start. Here I believe Canon trumps Nikon as it offers very good IS and a bit longer reach (Nikon's tele zoom maxes out at 200 I think). The Oly 14-42/40-150 combo should be cheaper (I would assume 20% cheaper given the size). |
Olympus kits can be had for cheaper and if one is going with olympus, rather go with Panasonic GH1. Its overall better camera, or better yet go with Pentax K7, everyone forgest Pentax made of the best SLR`s with Olympus being second best, Om and Praktica kits are still worth fair bit. Anyhow Pentax has the benefit that you will be able to use any lens every made for K mount. Pentax and Olympus have pretty much similar amount of support world wide. But Pentax has the biggest hand with LTD lenses which are simply amazing.
Also Nikon`s zoom has no limit since they are willing to develop anything you require. Nasa still uses Nikon and Nikon still sell 1200-1700mm lenses, on order though.
Sorry guys if i was rude anywhere. And if i was wrong please correct me.
Cheers