[alphadog]

Originally Posted by ninjatalli

Would you be interested in grouping up and ordering from wiggle.com? There's a minimum ~$140 order requirement to get shipping free. Price per tire is around $40-$50. Additional costs from customs is up to luck!

I have just placed an order for a pair of the Gatorskins in size 700x 32, for my road bike. My daughters bike has the 25c Gatorskins and I am quite happy with them. I wanna try out some thicker tyres for the roads and test them, at the moment I am running the GP4000 II, 25c tyres, on my roadie. I have also ordered some maxxis inner tubes with the longer presta (60mm) valves, as I have the longer aero fulcrum rims.

I ordered them on Chainreactioncycles, which is a part of the Wiggle group. I have ordered from them in the past, however, always had my brother bring it down for me when he comes visiting from the UK. The online retailer does charge a bomb of GBP 32 for delivery and I am sure there will be customs extra on landing. Fingers crossed I will get away with not much more damage. Will update on arrival.

Cheerio!

[greyhound82]

Hello fellow cyclists ,
What all core body exercises will you usually do ?
Due to covid medication I depleted most of the muscles. So slowly started core body strength training using Fitbod app. Cycling is limited to 2 days a week and other days am doing strength training ( started with 30minutes )

[ebonho]

Originally Posted by ach1lles

On a
Is the Marin too small? It’s a (barely) used but scratched piece for 50k. Seems to work fine.

Other experienced riders can chime in but those do not look like the scratches of a fall. But of long careless use.

When a bike falls on the right hand side, the metal bits get ground down like this ...



Plus I would never compromise on size, new or old. 50k is not exactly small change (that's the middle class 70 born in me asserting itself).

The four corners is about 2.5 kilos more than the Polygon. On flat terrain weight does not count for much once the bike gets going. It's the drag of the fat 40c tyres vs the 25 (or 28)c of the Polygon that you're feeling.

Originally Posted by alphadog

I have just placed an order for a pair of the Gatorskins in size 700x 32, for my road bike. My daughters bike has the 25c Gatorskins and I am quite happy with them. I wanna try out some thicker tyres for the roads and test them, at the moment I am running the GP4000 II, 25c tyres, on my roadie. I have also ordered some maxxis inner tubes with the longer presta (60mm) valves, as I have the longer aero fulcrum rims.

Cheerio!

Did you find the Gatorskins better at rolling or was it because of the increased puncture protection over the 4000s?

I have Gatorskins on my CAAD and I love them. But I'm wondering if it makes sense to spend (a lot) more when it's time to replace and get the GP 5000s (the racing younger brother of the all terrain older 4000).

Originally Posted by greyhound82

Hello fellow cyclists ,
What all core body exercises will you usually do ?
Due to covid medication I depleted most of the muscles. So slowly started core body strength training using Fitbod app. Cycling is limited to 2 days a week and other days am doing strength training ( started with 30minutes )

In my experience the best exercise for cycling is cycling.

Just keep an eye on your resting HR (if you knew it pre Covid) and your HR during the ride. Try and stay in Zone 2 most of the time. Under 60% of your peak HR (again if you knew your peak HR pre Covid ... for trained fit cyclists the age formula does not work).

Start small and build your way up slowly over 4 weeks. Don't go hard (even if your heart or breathing tell you they can) till 6 weeks post recovery (symptom free/14 days from symptom onset/negative RTPCR). Guildelines currently are to go easy (actually they say no exercise at all) for 3 months post Covid.

[ninjatalli]

Originally Posted by ach1lles

This Marin, the XS, is one sweetly set up bike. Everything felt as good as it did the first time I rode it. But wait. Turns out, that is not a new bike. It’s a used bike, and as per them, it was sold in March itself but the buyer decided last month he didn’t care for it anymore.

At which point I asked for them to offer the original invoice. They can’t because “our system was formatted”. What is this, 2001?

Okay, let me speak to the previous owner.
No sir, we can’t give his details like that.

Hmm.

Now, they’re vouching for the bike, and offering it at a really good price.

It has had atleast one fall, or scrape, on the drive side. Pictures attached. Operationally it felt absolutely fine, but I’m not exactly mr. experienced here.

...

TL;DR
Is the Marin too small? It’s a (barely) used but scratched piece for 50k. Seems to work fine.

That's a proper used bike with some decent usage if you ask me. The scratches and nicks all across the crankshaft and body talk about fair amount of usage over a year or so atleast. My wife's 2 year old used Merida was in similar shape - all the signs are same in the pics you shared. It's probably just undergone a full strip down service and hence the fresh "new bike" look.

While buying a used bike is not a bad deal at all, but I would give weightage to the dealer being transparent. No idea on the sizing - I'll agree with @Doc in principle but you have to decide basis the bike fit/trial experience.

Call out their BS and ask them to come out open if you like it. Nothing wrong in buying a used bike - more than half of my cycling has been on used bikes and if you get a good brand that has been maintained well, these cycles age very well. As for pricing for used bikes, it's all negotiations.

https://www.bicyclebluebook.com/ is a remotely useful guide to get an idea of used cycle depreciation but given the current market situation, it's a sellers' market all the way.

Edit: Looking at that Marin frame's top bar angle, I kind of feel it's a ladies model. Do check up on the bike documentation or atleast on the Marin website to reconfirm.

[ebonho]

Nothing wrong in a used bike at all. My ACT and CAAD both had previous owners.

But if you tell one lie, it opens the possibility of many others being there in the background as well.

In the end this is not a matrimonial relationship though. You are never going to see the face of the seller again and he is never going to exist in your life.

The bike is.

So think about the bike, the price, and go ahead. Or not.

[Red Liner]

Spending that kind of money on owner unknown, i would buy a brand new bike every single time.

If i knew the owner personally, then i would go probably go ahead with the purchase.

Under 20k, am alright to go with a used bike. Cheap enough to not cause me distress later over something that may have missed my attention during purchase inspection.

[ninjatalli]

Originally Posted by Red Liner

Spending that kind of money on owner unknown, i would buy a brand new bike every single time.

If i knew the owner personally, then i would go probably go ahead with the purchase.

Under 20k, am alright to go with a used bike. Cheap enough to not cause me distress later over something that may have missed my attention during purchase inspection.

Disagree completely on the above points. Cycles are much simpler machines as compared to cars - let's not complicate it that much.

What we individually lack from evaluating a used vehicle is a very easy fix - if you are not confident, get someone (a-la-mechanic) to evaluate the components and you'll get a clear answer on what parts need replacements and how good/bad the condition of the bike is. What you at times gain is the individual (seller) on the other end might not have depth of know-how and might just be interested in getting rid of a "used" cycle.

For example, there was a bhpian (Delhi/Noida side) who was in the same conundrum about a few months ago - he finally got someone to assist in evaluating used bikes and got a pretty decent deal on a road bike of a good brand. The details are there in this thread itself.

In above case, the issue is we are dealing with a dealer and not a owner and he's not giving the full details so that's a big risk to overcome. I wouldn't worry if there were multiple owners/users - unlike cars, bikes can/should be evaluated on the current condition. The # of owners/users is more of a price negotiation parameter if you ask me.

[ebonho]

Originally Posted by ninjatalli

Disagree completely on the above points. Cycles are much simpler machines as compared to cars - let's not complicate it that much.

What we individually lack from evaluating a used vehicle is a very easy fix - if you are not confident, get someone (a-la-mechanic) to evaluate the components and you'll get a clear answer on what parts need replacements and how good/bad the condition of the bike is. What you at times gain is the individual (seller) on the other end might not have depth of know-how and might just be interested in getting rid of a "used" cycle.

For example, there was a bhpian (Delhi/Noida side) who was in the same conundrum about a few months ago - he finally got someone to assist in evaluating used bikes and got a pretty decent deal on a road bike of a good brand. The details are there in this thread itself.

In above case, the issue is we are dealing with a dealer and not a owner and he's not giving the full details so that's a big risk to overcome. I wouldn't worry if there were multiple owners/users - unlike cars, bikes can/should be evaluated on the current condition. The # of owners/users is more of a price negotiation parameter if you ask me.

But there is a small caveat to this.

A used carbon frame (in the absence of a frame xray scan) should always be bought on a known history basis.

Carbon repairs are ofterntimes so neatly and expertly done you will never be able to make out that the frame was cracked in a place.

Scary.

[Red Liner]

Originally Posted by ninjatalli

Disagree completely on the above points. Cycles are much simpler machines as compared to cars - let's not complicate it that much.

What we individually lack from evaluating a used vehicle is a very easy fix - if you are not confident, get someone (a-la-mechanic) to evaluate the components and you'll get a clear answer on what parts need replacements and how good/bad the condition of the bike is. What you at times gain is the individual (seller) on the other end might not have depth of know-how and might just be interested in getting rid of a "used" cycle.

For example, there was a bhpian (Delhi/Noida side) who was in the same conundrum about a few months ago - he finally got someone to assist in evaluating used bikes and got a pretty decent deal on a road bike of a good brand. The details are there in this thread itself.

In above case, the issue is we are dealing with a dealer and not a owner and he's not giving the full details so that's a big risk to overcome. I wouldn't worry if there were multiple owners/users - unlike cars, bikes can/should be evaluated on the current condition. The # of owners/users is more of a price negotiation parameter if you ask me.

Ah, that was just my personal approach considering i know nothing about bicycles. Motorcycles or cars on the other hand, bring it on.

Taking along a mechanic or expert friend can only work a few times out. If you are shopping and need to see many and need to close a quick deal, then you need to know enough or have someone free enough to accompany you for the pre purchase inspection.

Once i get the hang of bikes and in maybe a few years, i should be in a better position to independently evaluate bikes and make purchases.

Above suggestion was strictly for noobs like me who do not have access to bike experts or mechanics we know well in our immediate circle on a first name basis

[promit]

Originally Posted by ebonho

The gumption of guys is unbelievable man. There are some shops charging 1100 bucks for those Ralsons. At one time I used to pick up tyres and tubes directly from GRL for a few hundred bucks. The Indian tyres and tubes are that cheap. Most other shops are charging 650-800 bucks per tyre. For a tyre which the company sells at 200-250 bucks tops.

I might even try out the Ralsons. The tyre would be a bit more expensive than the inner tube! Worst case, if I have to catch an auto home, I will take them off and see if they run on the trainer. They do have a smooth central tread ...

Cheers, Doc

The tire situation is a royal mess man. A piece of glass destroyed my 500 km old Giant tire last weekend. Currently using a friend's spare Schwalbe Lugano. The only available options for me in Gurgaon appear to be Pirelli (5k) or Ralson for 1100 each respectively. Similarly, I just came to know Ralson tires used to cost 1200 for a pair until not too long ago. I will have to pick it up and a couple of spares too. Saving grace, a friend of mine who rides a lot has shifted to Ralson and his feedback has been quite positive. Also, evaluating if someone residing abroad can Fedex tires.

Originally Posted by ach1lles

Now, they’re vouching for the bike, and offering it at a really good price.

TL;DR
Is the Marin too small? It’s a (barely) used but scratched piece for 50k. Seems to work fine.

My friend and I looked at two pre-owned cycles in December from this same store. Both appeared to be in the store on trade-in. One was in much better condition than the other. Negotiated 5k off the asking price on the better one and my friend picked it. We had the same query while finalising price. At the time we were told, only bikes sold new by him can be had with the original invoice copy - and since this bike was a brand he didn't deal in no papers. So this computer format thing can be taken with a pinch of salt. It's likely it's older than what they are claiming. But honestly the store is very good with support and help, well-stocked, offer some freebies and a free service on pre-owned bikes as well. In my experience - you need to have done your research and due dilligence very thoroughly before purchasing anything from here - be it bar tape or a bicycle.

On a serious note, price appears to be okay given market conditions. The damage is hard to swallow (and agree with fellow members 50k is not a small amount). In my opinion you should let this one go for the unsuited size alone. I rode an incorrect size Cannondale for a while, it's not worth it. Would suggest keep searching you should get a more suitable bike - new or preowned.

[ebonho]

Originally Posted by Red Liner

Above suggestion was strictly for noobs like me who do not have access to bike experts or mechanics we know well in our immediate circle on a first name basis

What I did during my ACT inspection and negotiation was photograph the bike and it's important/concern bits and whatsapp it to a mechanic friend.

Then call him and discuss each and their ramifications (in terms of additional cost involved). Did that in front of the owner so that it's transparent and he gets a fair idea that this is what he's selling before the negotiations begin.

For my CAAD (and in fact any high end bike) if you know the name of the seller, track him down on Facebook or Instagram and definitely on Strava. Spend time going through his profile and rides

Both the actual mileage of the bike and any crashes/issues will become apparent. It's all there on the internet.

But for my CAAD one phone call to the guy in Bangalore was all it took for both of us to know that the other guy was genuine, and a sportsman who really liked cycling and bikes.

The brilliant photos of the bike did the rest.

Same for my Kinetic trainer, that I picked up from a triathlete in Hyderabad.

I've been lucky with triathlete deals. @graaja

[ach1lles]

Originally Posted by greyhound82

Hello fellow cyclists ,
What all core body exercises will you usually do ?

Golden rule: strength training trumps all.
Golden rule II: strength as a skill is the most valuable fitness skill to train and get better at.
Not aware of bicycling specific demands as yet, but a strong core is a strong core in any situation.
Resisting flexion: planks: standing, lunged, sideways, and good mornings. Can add weight as you get stronger.
Would advise you to add squats, dead lifts and overhead presses as well.

Originally Posted by ebonho

When a bike falls on the right hand side, the metal bits get ground down like this

Yeah, I didn’t buy their story at all. Plus the quoted price is too low for a barely used bike with just surface damage.

Originally Posted by ebonho

Plus I would never compromise on size, new or old.

It is too small, isn’t it? Yeah, pass.

Originally Posted by ebonho

The four corners is about 2.5 kilos more than the Polygon. On flat terrain weight does not count for much once the bike gets going. It's the drag of the fat 40c tyres vs the 25 (or 28)c of the Polygon that you're feeling.

Definitely, plus the weight of the wheels and tyres. I read that the Marin has heavy wheels.

Originally Posted by ninjatalli

That's a proper used bike with some decent usage if you ask me. The scratches and nicks all across the crankshaft and body talk about fair amount of usage over a year or so atleast. My wife's 2 year old used Merida was in similar shape - all the signs are same in the pics you shared. It's probably just undergone a full strip down service and hence the fresh "new bike" look.

Yeah, that seems to be the case. It’s too small anyway. Passing.

Originally Posted by ninjatalli

While buying a used bike is not a bad deal at all, but I would give weightage to the dealer being transparent.

Absolutely. Is there a portal for used bikes here in India? Quite sure this is a space filled with enthusiasts mainly, who’d want to care for their bike and keep it well.

Originally Posted by ninjatalli;5105774[URL="https://www.bicyclebluebook.com/"

https://www.bicyclebluebook.com/[/url] is a remotely useful guide to get an idea of used cycle depreciation but given the current market situation, it's a sellers' market all the way.

Thanks for this.

Originally Posted by ninjatalli

Edit: Looking at that Marin frame's top bar angle, I kind of feel it's a ladies model. Do check up on the bike documentation or atleast on the Marin website to reconfirm.

Nah, it’s more angled for the small size. Plus I think the smaller wheels make it look, er, feminine?

Originally Posted by promit

At the time we were told, only bikes sold new by him can be had with the original invoice copy - and since this bike was a brand he didn't deal in no papers. So this computer format thing can be taken with a pinch of salt. It's likely it's older than what they are claiming.

Different stories for different situations. They’re the official dealers for Marin for India so that won’t hold up in this case.
If a story is true it can be backed up.

Originally Posted by promit

But honestly the store is very good with support and help, well-stocked, offer some freebies and a free service on pre-owned bikes as well.

Good to know. If you’re around and so inclined, would you be willing to come along and help me finalise one? Someone experienced would be extremely helpful. Lunch/beer/coffee on me of course

What other stores should I try out till they get new stock of the Marins?

Originally Posted by promit

On a serious note, price appears to be okay given market conditions. The damage is hard to swallow (and agree with fellow members 50k is not a small amount). In my opinion you should let this one go for the unsuited size alone. I rode an incorrect size Cannondale for a while, it's not worth it. Would suggest keep searching you should get a more suitable bike - new or preowned.

Sure, thanks. That’s the consensus. Just itching to start riding, the weather’s beautiful!

Thanks a lot guys, @ebonho, @promit, @ninjatalli, @vb-san, @Red Liner, and anyone else I’m forgetting. This place is so great.

[Jaguar]

Originally Posted by vb-san

Not an expert, but that looks ok for you. But best will be to try a L-size as well before closing the deal.

I too felt the XL to be ok in the limited run I did within the short loop in the shop floor aisle. The handlebar felt wide but the width is the same across sizes.

I also want to try the L but the issue is availablity. Visited a couple of other shops as well and all they have are X or M for the bikes with similar geometry. L is available in the likes of Firefox but those have a horizontal crossbar unlike the slanting crossbar in the likes of Marin and Trek. So, not a good comparison.

[promit]

Originally Posted by ach1lles

Good to know. If you’re around and so inclined, would you be willing to come along and help me finalise one? Someone experienced would be extremely helpful. Lunch/beer/coffee on me of course

Sure, happy to help. Have dm-ed you my number.

[ebonho]

Originally Posted by promit

Saving grace, a friend of mine who rides a lot has shifted to Ralson and his feedback has been quite positive.

Thanks Promit. How does it roll? Is it very heavy rolling? How has he done on punctures?

How heavy is your friend and how many psi does he fill into the Ralsons? The reason I'm asking is that unlike my Indian GRLs that are rated for 100 psi, the Ralsons are rated only for 75 psi (the ones I've seen).

Couple of shop guys have recently told me that the Ralsons are rated for 116 psi (but that they do not recommend filling beyond 90 to be on the safe side) so I'm wondering if Ralson have come out with a newer version. Their website still shows both 23c and 25c rated for 75 psi only.

How many kilometres has he done on them and what is the wear like. I am desperately looking for cheap training tyres. I don't mind heavier tyres but they should not suck the life out of my legs with rolling resistance. Knowing Indian tyres, I suspect the rubber will do well against punctures though, with or without any puncture protect internal layer.

Lots of questions!