[ebonho]

Originally Posted by Mi10

IMO, if you are on Compact gear set (50/34) i think 11-28 should totally work for you. If you planning to train around elevation profiles, consider 11-30 it is a good choice.

Thanks Mi10!

Yeah, the SRAM PG-830 11-30 is on my radar as well. Been suggested by a pro racer friend of mine as the best of both worlds between the 11-32 and the 11-28.

11 13 15 17 20 23 26 30

I doesn't however have the 16t cog, and I've been reading on many forums that the 15 to 17 gap tends to leave riders in no-man's land in the meat of the cassette's mid range (the operating core for 90% riding). What are your thoughts on that?

Another advantage of this cassette if I choose to go with it is that my bike's original Claris 2400 SS rear derailleur can work on it (30t). Even though the Shimano website claims that the Claris SS (short cage) derailleur can take a max 32t, we have tried everything (B screw etc.) but not managed to set it up.

So on my 11-32 I use a MTB/hybrid series Alivio long cage rear derailleur. Works beautifully. Smooth effortless shifts. Just does not "look" road bike at the rear.

Of my current two available 11-32 cassettes, I like the closer spaced taller higher gears of the SRAM for 95% of the rolling terrain in Pune with short punchy 5 km hills of 4.5 to 6% for the most part.

11 12 14 16 18 21 26 32

For the longer steeper climbs of 7-9 km of 7-8% however I am stuck with only two usable cog 26 or 32 (21 gets quickly used up in the initial flatter gradients before having to shift permanently till the summit).

The BTwin 12-32 on the other hand looses the additional 11 from the top end but gives an additional cog in the climbing range between 21 and 32, the first 5 cogs being exactly the same as the SRAM's, so we have

12 14 16 18 21 24 28 32

So instead of just the 26 in the SRAM I now get both a 24 and a 28 as well.

So I was thinking aside from the hassle of changing cassettes, in case there is no need to re-index the shifting, I can get the cassette removal tool and do it myself at home and not have to go to the mechanic.

I anyways swap between the original wheel with the SRAM for road use and the trainer wheel with the BTwin for the trainer, and the shifting is fine.

Cheers, Doc

[shipnil]

Originally Posted by ebonho

But if I were to use one of my current 3 existing cassettes, what is the view and advice of the regular riders here?

Doc, you already have researched the topic thoroughly and also many seasoned riders have already commented so I may not have much to add. Below is my personal experience.

To go for 8 speed bike was a purely financial decision. There itself the need to think how to optimize this became necessary. I have a Sunrace 12-32 cassette. In the early days, most of my time was spent in 18-21, mainly on flats or little inclines. The issue with this, as you mentioned, is 21 was spinning fast and 18 was a bit harder on knees. I explored various websites and a general opinion was the cog shifts should be 1.1 to 1.15 ratio. 21-18 is 1.16 hence that issue of spinning fast or harder gear. Also, for me 14-12 jump not optimum as it is also 1.16. After couple of years, I am able to stay mostly in 16-18 so that issue of spinning fast is not there.

I haven't been to Bhor or Lavasa, so can't comment but for inclines on NH4, I am good with 28 cog. In the last 2 years I have used 32 cog, may be once at best. So I think it's a dead weight.

I think the cassette that you have that gives you ratio like 13-15-17-19-21 should be better one, maxing out at 28. From your post, I see you like 16t very much. Not sure if 15-17 would be able to fulfill that need though.

BTW, have you given thought of mixing and matching cogs from different cassettes? I think 2mm allen key should be able separate cogs. Atleast the cassette that I have can be disassembled like that.

[ebonho]

Originally Posted by shipnil

I explored various websites and a general opinion was the cog shifts should be 1.1 to 1.15 ratio. 21-18 is 1.16 hence that issue of spinning fast or harder gear. Also, for me 14-12 jump not optimum as it is also 1.16. After couple of years, I am able to stay mostly in 16-18 so that issue of spinning fast is not there.

Thanks Shipnil!

I recall we had a decent discussion on gearing some time last year and I remember you mentioning this ratio but I could not find the post where you spoke about it, so really appreciate you repeating it here. (exhausted my quota of smilies for this one!)

The only caveat I would like to add here about this jump ratio is that it is not such an issue at the lower end of your gear range (your past 2-3 climbing gears) because the gradient changes are such (more drastic than the subtle ones on the flats/rolling) that bigger jumps between cogs are not felt as much.

Yup, as I said, Bopdev can be done in 26. Katraj and Dive even higher. But Sinhagad, Bhor and Lavasa are much steeper, and longer. Body weight also makes a big difference.

Cheers, Doc

[Mi10]

Originally Posted by ebonho

Thanks Mi10!

Yeah, the SRAM PG-830 11-30 is on my radar as well. Been suggested by a pro racer friend of mine as the best of both worlds between the 11-32 and the 11-28.

11 13 15 17 20 23 26 30

I doesn't however have the 16t cog, and I've been reading on many forums that the 15 to 17 gap tends to leave riders in no-man's land in the meat of the cassette's mid range (the operating core for 90% riding). What are your thoughts on that?

I don't know about this no-man's land gearing, but i am guessing it cannot be made as a statement without knowing the specs of the Crank.

I am facing the exact gears in both my bikes, which is missing the 16T cog.

One has 11-12-13-14-15-17-... (Dura Ace- 9100) and the other 11-12-13-14-15-17-... (105-5800)

But the gear transitions are just perfect for me in 105 because it is running 52T. The Dura Ace i am finding it hard to get that perfect sweet spot between cruising speed - cadence and Load (indirectly effort -> HR) as it is on 54T.

Also that sweetspot differs from person to person. I have seen few who are very comfortable at 78-82 RPM and still make excellent progress (speed).
i started off very high (98-105 RPM) before settling down to 88-92 as sweet spot.

[ebonho]

Originally Posted by Mi10

I don't know about this no-man's land gearing, but i am guessing it cannot be made as a statement without knowing the specs of the Crank.

I am facing the exact gears in both my bikes, which is missing the 16T cog.

One has 11-12-13-14-15-17-... (Dura Ace- 9100) and the other 11-12-13-14-15-17-... (105-5800)

But the gear transitions are just perfect for me in 105 because it is running 52T. The Dura Ace i am finding it hard to get that perfect sweet spot between cruising speed - cadence and Load (indirectly effort -> HR) as it is on 54T.

Also that sweetspot differs from person to person. I have seen few who are very comfortable at 78-82 RPM and still make excellent progress (speed).
i started off very high (98-105 RPM) before settling down to 88-92 as sweet spot.

I believe most international forums discussing this were on standard cranks.

53-39.

For me personally, running a 50-34, I'm simply used to having the 16, and the 16 and 18 see a lot of work on the trainer as well.

Then again, I'm running an 8 speed. And most are running 11. Though that should not make a difference to an individual ratio per se.

Cheers, Doc

P.S. The 16t is the darling of the older generation racers here as well. The ones racing 5 and 6 speed freewheels. Friction shifters on the downtube. And 52/42 cranks. Heard this more than once.

[ebonho]

Bombay - Poona and the trails right now!

Courtesy: Bombay Boy Who Pedals

https://youtu.be/uMqTDew97SI

Cheers, Doc

[ebonho]

https://youtu.be/rj2sxICzVAo

https://youtu.be/2ENBCUjvXB4

Surreal man. Bikes and riders being picked out from the tops of trees!

It's a wonder no one broke their neck.

Cheers, Doc

[condor]

Wanted advice on stem risers. I have a Decathlon Trailman, and wanted to try a stem riser for a more comfortable handle bar height. Has anybody tried this ? How does it affect handling ?

[ebonho]

Originally Posted by condor

Wanted advice on stem risers. I have a Decathlon Trailman, and wanted to try a stem riser for a more comfortable handle bar height. Has anybody tried this ? How does it affect handling ?

Would advise you strongly against one. It's simply not safe. Okay for recreational slow speed riding in the society max.

[condor]

Originally Posted by ebonho

Would advise you strongly against one. It's simply not safe. Okay for recreational slow speed riding in the society max.

Doc, not into serious riding. It's a size L.

I first thought the spacers may help increase the height by an inch or so. The service guy at decathlon said that wont fit - and I would have to go for a stem riser.

So what do you say - a road bike ?

[ebonho]

Originally Posted by condor

Doc, not into serious riding. It's a size L.

I first thought the spacers may help increase the height by an inch or so. The service guy at decathlon said that wont fit - and I would have to go for a stem riser.

So what do you say - a road bike ?

L is pretty big. I'm 180 cm and a M in most major brands. How tall are you? Which model is it? Did you check the size chart. I suspect it's more to do with your lack of saddle time and flexibility, core strength.

If the spacers are all below the stem

AND

The stem is angled upward (all stems have a slight angle, so you can fit them in two positions, facing down or pointed up)

You could either try a riser bar ( a curved bar)

OR

A different stem with a much more acute angle/length

OR

Try an adjustable stem that you can swivel upward for comfort.

A stem riser is very scary. It's your only steering contact with the bike. Don't mess with that.

[splitsecond]

Originally Posted by amvj

Today I rode 31+ KM. My longest ride so far.
Previously, I get very tired even for a 10 KM ride. Now my body is slowly getting used to this. Although the speed is very very less, especially it is basically a flat terrain.

I have one question:
For today's ride, I have used Apple watch and Strava + Chest heart rate strap. I find the calorie count difference between the two is quite huge. Any one find similar issue ?

I have heard that calorie burn differs between apps and the most accurate way to measure it is to use a power meter. However, I still find this difference quite huge.

Apple watch: 878 Cal (total)
Strava: 1560 Cal

Attachment 2121472

Attachment 2121473

What was your average heart rate in starva? May be the difference in heart may have caused this variation.

[ebonho]

Nothing more soul uplifting (especially on Monday morning) than a ride to one of the wet green rolling pretty ghats in and around Poona during the monsoons!

Alandi (Chakan) ghat. 2.3 km long. A very gentle 3.1% average gradient. Beautiful road surface. Sparse traffic. Me and my old faithful Hercules ACT 110. Perfect combination.





Cheers, Doc

[vb-saan]

Originally Posted by ebonho

Nothing more soul uplifting (especially on Monday morning)…

Totally agree! Was off the bike for the past one week – as recommended after the vaccine shot. It was good to be back on the bike, did just around 40 kms round trip on the usual track.



20kms ride for a coffee – Monday motivation!

[ebonho]

Originally Posted by vb-san

It was good to be back on the bike

Totally! Honestly with the global warming in front of our eyes in our own lifetime, winter has all but disappeared.

Funnily, though the Covid second wave kept us preoccupied and largely indoors, this year we barely had a summer as well. Both in terms of months as well as temperature highs.

So honestly the monsoons are the best time of the year now for us. Can't waste it indoors.

I like the fact that you have kept your bike "undecorated" without even a saddlebag.

Cheers, Doc