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Old 25th January 2011, 17:39   #10666
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Re: Car Audio Advice from the Audio Gurus: Use "Search thread" before posting a new Q

Quote:
Originally Posted by DerAlte View Post
* There are many brands and models - JBL, Infinity, Auditor, Bull, Illusion, Rainbow, Blaupunkt, Polk, etc. Depends more on what you can get locally from a reliable source, rather than wanting the absolute 'best'

* Get a good sub like Infinity Reference, Polk or even better, Infinity Kappa 120.9. Economy and mid-range Subs can cost anywhere in the range 5-12K
* Get a decent amp like Kenwood 8404, Blaupunkt GTA or THX, JBL S44, Infinity Reference, Auditor, etc. Should cost you ~6K
* Don't forget to set aside ~3K for cables, wiring, etc. and ~5K at least for damping
Did you mean the boot/dickey by any chance? If so, yes, the conventional way is to mount the sub in a sealed box made of MDF (avoid a sub tube)..

DerAlte thanks a lot for your respose. the scenario here is pretty darn bad cause all the guys just try to put to you the max profitable stuff(thats what i feel) like in my santro i got an advice regarding pioneer HU 4050 and JBL GTO636 or 936 something like that(you can imagine wat sort of a noob i am ) and that sufficed my need. I had two front 6 inch normal speakers. I was very happy with the sound. Here in my sx4 i am looking for a crystal clear sound. I am not too hung up with subs or bass tubes. thing is my last jbl speakers gave me more than enough bass i required. of course the HU was awesome . But the SX4 nippon system i beleive wont do due justice to the ovals if i fit them so i am looking to enhance with an two channel or four channel amplifier.

So as far as i can see the options could be
1. change front to components and get a good pair of rear ovals with a two channel or four channel amplifier. My last ovals were just awesome I beliee you would understand what i am talking about
2 get a pair of components and co-axials and fit a sub with an amp.

DerAlte/(other gurus) I would request you to give me specific model numbers and approx price which would vary +-500so that i can go and ask for the exact stuff and get it done. cause i just trust team-bhp blindly.

ummm I can also get the stuff from milan-subway since someone i know is going to bombay soon. so sourcing the stuff wont be too much of an issue f i know what to get. only constraints are a> dont ask me for opinion cause i dont know much b> budget 25k

One more question the car audioguys are asking for 1500 buck for a jumper or crossover something like that i lost the term . In my understanding I beleive its a splitter to give multiple connections
from the system since they say from my hu they need the splitters?
What they say is it roght or not?

PS: Deralta you asked whats available locally in cal I can see lots of JBL, Rockford, blaupunkt. Little bit of infinity. But i dont thing we get scosche wires and stuff although i would try to find
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Old 25th January 2011, 19:07   #10667
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Re: Car Audio Advice from the Audio Gurus: Use "Search thread" before posting a new Q

Has anyone tried using a Computer Speaker's Sub or a Home Theater sub inside the Car Cabin? I have an Esteem and I see space on the floor under the dashboard behind the AC console. If powering the sub and dust/heat related issues are kept aside, how good is this as an option?

PS:
If required I could post pics of the space I am talking about. Its an enclosed space and the Sub's box can be packed in neatly.
A Sub with a rear or front throw would be ideal.
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Old 26th January 2011, 11:50   #10668
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Re: Car Audio Advice from the Audio Gurus: Use "Search thread" before posting a new Q

@vampire,
* Components: Infinity Reference 6530CS (~8K) or Blaupunkt THc or VPc (~6-8K) 6.5" components
* If round coaxials in rear door: Infinity Ref 6032i or Blaupunkt THx 6.5" coaxials (~4.5K)
* If 6x9 ovals coaxials: Infinity Ref 9633i (~6K) or JBL GTO 948 (~5K) or Blaupunkt THx (~4K)
* 4-channel amp: JBL GT5 S644 (~6-7K) or Blaupunkt GT4 Special Mark2 (~6K)
* Subwoofer: Infinity REf1260W (~6K) or JBL CS1215 (<4K) or Blaupunkt THw / VPw subwoofer (3-5K)
* Box for the subwoofer (dimensions depending on which sub you get - ~700-900) or the fiber-glass enclosure in boot (~2K)
* Power wires for amp (can be good Indian household wires) + RCA cables (not sure how many Pre-outs your Pio 4050 has). Otherwise buy a Scosche kit from an authorized JBL dealer - this would be costlier than get-your-own
* Damping - at least the front doors and the boot lid

@mashmash:
* PC or HT sub would need a 220-240V AC power supply! Where do you intend to get that from in a car?
* Those subs, which give a 'feeling of lows' at home, are driven by 5 or 6.5" drivers - and are nowhere close to the driving power of 10"/12" proper subwoofers used in a car
* That space below the AC console faces the AC inlet, which you will block if you keep the sub box there!
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Old 26th January 2011, 16:04   #10669
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Audio hiss

Hey Guys!
I recently got the speakers changed in my Sx4, and have a small problem.
The setup is as follows- Stock Nippon HU, Infinity REF 6030CS components in the front, Infinity REF 6032i Coax in the rear, JBL CS1215 sub and a four channel Hertz HE4 amplifier, which drives the front components and the sub. Also, the wires are good quality (Scosche).
The problem I'm facing is a constant 'hiss' from all the sources. The hiss does not change with change in rpm or the engine running or anything else, and it disappears when the volume is 0. From 1 up to the max volume, the hiss is present and the loudness of the hiss remains the same. It's not audible at higher volumes, but gets slightly annoying at lower volumes. I would go back to the installer, but he's in Bangalore and I'm at Hyderabad!
Can anyone please help we with this or point me towards a competent installer in Hyderabad?
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Old 26th January 2011, 23:56   #10670
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Re: Car Audio Advice from the Audio Gurus: Use "Search thread" before posting a new Q

You must have used a Line Output Converter, since you have a stock HU without Pre-out. That is the first suspect. The second suspect could be high gain set at the amp.

Have these checked out by any decent installer in Hyderabad.
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Old 27th January 2011, 03:25   #10671
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Re: Car Audio Advice from the Audio Gurus: Use "Search thread" before posting a new Q

Quote:
Originally Posted by DerAlte View Post
@mashmash:
* PC or HT sub would need a 220-240V AC power supply! Where do you intend to get that from in a car?
* Those subs, which give a 'feeling of lows' at home, are driven by 5 or 6.5" drivers - and are nowhere close to the driving power of 10"/12" proper subwoofers used in a car
* That space below the AC console faces the AC inlet, which you will block if you keep the sub box there!
Thank you so much for replying.

Was thinking of powering it via a Belkin inverter. However, I do agree with your points and it does make sense to shelve the idea. Fact is, I do not like too much bass and am happy with the Bass produced by a 6x9 pair. Problem is I need to change my rears as they are requesting for retirement. Was planning to add one of the Subs lying 'vella' at home, replace front 4" JBLs and disconnect the rears all together. But now front JBLs would have to stay and rear Pioneers replaced.

Which 6x9 do I go in for that give decent Bass?

BTW the car is a 2005 model Esteem. Player is a Pioneer 4190SD. Current setup is Player+4 speakers.

MaSh
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Old 27th January 2011, 12:02   #10672
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Re: Car Audio Advice from the Audio Gurus: Use "Search thread" before posting a new Q

Unless something is physically falling apart (surround, cone or spider disintegrating), they don't ask for retirement. Many times blowing compressed air (be sure to throttle down the pressure) on the cone, surround, spider and inside the magnet near voice coil cures it's lethargy.

Most of the 6x9 (barring Sony and the no-name ones advertised in newspapers) in the market give a decent bass output. If you like Pio sound, get Pio. Otherwise there is JBL, Infinity, Blaupunkt, Polk, Auditor, ...
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Old 27th January 2011, 14:21   #10673
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Re: Car Audio Advice from the Audio Gurus: Use "Search thread" before posting a new Q

Quote:
Originally Posted by DerAlte View Post
Unless something is physically falling apart (surround, cone or spider disintegrating), they don't ask for retirement. Many times blowing compressed air (be sure to throttle down the pressure) on the cone, surround, spider and inside the magnet near voice coil cures it's lethargy.

Most of the 6x9 (barring Sony and the no-name ones advertised in newspapers) in the market give a decent bass output. If you like Pio sound, get Pio. Otherwise there is JBL, Infinity, Blaupunkt, Polk, Auditor, ...
He he, nope nothing is falling apart. I had got these speakers when I had bought the car about 5 months ago. The sound is good, the bass is to my liking, but only upto a certain volume, after which both of them start to flutter on songs with deep bass. HPF is set to 60(below this, flutter is very prominent) and rest is set to medium levels.

One more thing, I am not 100% sure if they are original, because, apart from the Grill, Pioneer is mentioned no where, the plate behind the magnet is blank, nothing on it for both the speakers. Hence a stronger urge to retire them.

MaSh
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Old 27th January 2011, 15:42   #10674
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Re: Car Audio Advice from the Audio Gurus: Use "Search thread" before posting a new Q

@mashmash: What you are hearing can possibly be the amp distortion when you are playing loud - an external amp will raise the limit of loud volume without distorting. IMHO you should get a small 4-channel amp instead of changing your speakers. A Pio or Sony amp will do - will cost you the same as what you wanted to invest on 6x9s.

With an amp, you will be able to make independent settings for the front (HP @ 100Hz) and rear (HP at 60Hz), and also be able to drive them harder. Trying to do that with only HU is impossible.
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Old 27th January 2011, 20:16   #10675
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Re: Car Audio Advice from the Audio Gurus: Use "Search thread" before posting a new Q

Quote:
Originally Posted by DerAlte View Post
You must have used a Line Output Converter, since you have a stock HU without Pre-out. That is the first suspect. The second suspect could be high gain set at the amp.
Yes, I did have to get a Line Output Converter installed. Just curious, what does the installer have to do to the converter to reduce the hiss?
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Old 27th January 2011, 21:23   #10676
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Re: Car Audio Advice from the Audio Gurus: Use "Search thread" before posting a new Q

Quote:
Originally Posted by DerAlte View Post
@mashmash: What you are hearing can possibly be the amp distortion when you are playing loud - an external amp will raise the limit of loud volume without distorting. IMHO you should get a small 4-channel amp instead of changing your speakers. A Pio or Sony amp will do - will cost you the same as what you wanted to invest on 6x9s.

With an amp, you will be able to make independent settings for the front (HP @ 100Hz) and rear (HP at 60Hz), and also be able to drive them harder. Trying to do that with only HU is impossible.
Oh it could be that. The fluttering starts at around 25+ volume. That's a brilliant idea. It never struck me. Will surely try this out. Just one more query, will my 4" JBL in front be able to take the amp's power? I am not sure of the model, but they are 426 or something like that.

MaSh
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Old 27th January 2011, 23:31   #10677
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Re: Car Audio Advice from the Audio Gurus: Use "Search thread" before posting a new Q

I am new here and looking for some expert advice for a very basic setup. Details are as follows:

Car model: Maruti Suzuki Wagon R LXi (2007 model)

Current setup:
Some Sony XPLOD Head Unit, Crappy front speakers, JBL GTO 938 100W RMS rear speakers (mounted on a parcel tray at the rear)

Requirements / details : Something basic with decent sound quality. I don't need a discotheque in my car but would appreciate some good bass. I plan to use the rear speakers as I feel they are decent but I am ready to change if people suggest changing them. The front speakers and head unit have to go for sure. I also need a head unit that is USB and Ipod compatible.

Type of Music I like: Club songs, Ghazals, Oldies, Trance, House, etc. (A bit of everything I guess.)

Budget: 10-15K maximum (inclusive of everything like wiring, taxes, fitting, etc.)


Please advise accordingly. Thanks.


PS: I am a total noob with this
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Old 28th January 2011, 10:47   #10678
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Re: Car Audio Advice from the Audio Gurus: Use "Search thread" before posting a new Q

maverick, I'd keep the 938 in the rear.

1. Upgrade the front speakers to something that matches the 938s in tonal quality (are the front speakers in the door or int he dash?). This should run you about 5-6K.

2. Which Sony HU is it? If it is decent then I'd consider a 4 ch. amp for about 6K and use the amp to drive the 4 (front and rear) speakers.

3. The balance 3K would go in getting the front doors damped and RCA wires.
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Old 28th January 2011, 10:59   #10679
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Re: Car Audio Advice from the Audio Gurus: Use "Search thread" before posting a new Q

Can the PAC SWI Jack be used to intergrate steering audio controls of ANHC to a Alpine CDA-117 ? If it can done then how easy is it ... straight forward wiring ?

Pac-Audio.com Product Details | iPod Integration for your car and More by Pac-Audio - Connecting you to the future
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Old 28th January 2011, 12:32   #10680
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Re: Car Audio Advice from the Audio Gurus: Use "Search thread" before posting a new Q

Quote:
Originally Posted by navin View Post
maverick, I'd keep the 938 in the rear.

1. Upgrade the front speakers to something that matches the 938s in tonal quality (are the front speakers in the door or int he dash?). This should run you about 5-6K.

2. Which Sony HU is it? If it is decent then I'd consider a 4 ch. amp for about 6K and use the amp to drive the 4 (front and rear) speakers.

3. The balance 3K would go in getting the front doors damped and RCA wires.

Thanks Navin. The head unit is decent I guess. Will check the model number and post back. However can you suggest some model numbers of speakers for the front (JBL preferred due to availability reasons) ? I am desperate to get the front speakers changed first and then will decide about the rest if my experience is not good even after changing the front speakers.

I also have to check if the HU has a provision for fitting an amplifier or not.
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