[condor]

Originally Posted by greenhorn

a mid range one should do about 30, and a good one should do 20

That was to the point ! The Infinity 1200s has a 27-175Hz .. Was comparing it with a RF R2SD-10 which does just 45-250 Hz .. Any take on these ?

Originally Posted by Mashblue

Clear output or for pure sound quality sealed box is the way to go.
P.S: Info on other equipment you are running(Headunit/Amp/speaker) will be helpful.

Thanks, Mashblue.

HU is an Alpine CDE-126BT paired to Diamond Audio 6.5" components and Coaxials. No amp yet, but thinking of one.

[greenhorn]

Originally Posted by condor

That was to the point ! The Infinity 1200s has a 27-175Hz .. Was comparing it with a RF R2SD-10 which does just 45-250 Hz .. Any take on these ?
.

Where is your data source? I looked both of them up on crutchfield and while the infinity spec is correct, they mention that the rf goes down to 38 which is ok when you consider it's a 10 inch shallow mount

Also different brands use different standards for frequency response, with some using 3db, some using 6 and others even worse. So unless you know what's the standard, any such comparison is potentially meaningless

[condor]

Originally Posted by greenhorn

they mention that the rf goes down to 38 which is ok when you consider it's a 10 inch shallow mount

This part is interesting.

For the Infinity: " Usable low-frequency response inside the vehicle will be below 20Hz."
http://www.infinityspeakers.com/subw...=Black#start=1

[greenhorn]

Originally Posted by condor

This part is interesting.

For the Infinity: " Usable low-frequency response inside the vehicle will be below 20Hz."
http://www.infinityspeakers.com/subw...=Black#start=1

Just dressed up specs. any decent sub would have *some* output upto and below 20hz, question is if it is within 3dB. If you check the datasheet, - It's the heights of misrepresentation - the frequency response of the speaker under standard test conditions is not shown at all, the main frequency response they've shown is is for a particular box, inside a car, which is like showing the mileage of a car when measured going downhill

nowadays, its hard to get proper specs of anything audio related. for frequency response, the dB figures are not quoted, Rated power is often not stated in RMS, and if RMS is given, % THD is not given. Things you used to take for granted a decade or so ago are just not there as they fall victim to marketing

[kaushik_s]

Originally Posted by kaushik_s

Hi All,
Back on the ICE forum after a long time. Recently bought a Hyundai Elite i20 and planning to upgrade the ICE. My plan is to get a 4 channel amplifier first. I have my old Subwoofer (Rockford Fosgate Punch) and will bridge two channels to run the Sub. Initial plan is to use the existing speakers of the car. Later will probably change the speakers to Morel Maximos.
Now, I am bit confused about the amplifier to use here. I had Focal Solid 4 Amp before and I liked the sound quality of that. Con was that it used to cut off at times and that was very irritating experience. I am not sure if it was a common issue with Focal Solid 4 amps. Why I'm talking about Solid 4 is that here in a shop I've found a brand new Focal Solid 4 amp. It's from an old batch as afaik Focal Solid 4 is out of sales (am I right here?). Was wondering if I could go for this amplifier? Will there be any warranty on such products? And is that cut-off issue was a common problem across Solid 4's?
If not Focal Solid 4 then what other amplifiers should I look into? I saw Inifinity Kappa 4 on Snapdeal for around 15k+ couple of days back. Is it genuine product? How is Kappa 4 compared to Solid 4? Another advantage of Solid 4 is the ability to take Speaker level inputs as i20 AVN doesn't have any pre-outs.
Budget is 15k for the amp and have separate budget for wiring etc.
Please help me out here as I'm not able to decide on anything at all.
Thanks,

Guys, it's been almost 20 days and still waiting for any input or was it such a stupid question that no one bothered to answer?

[deepfusion]

Guys need help. Urgently.

I am in the midst of audio instal in my rapid with the following equipment

Head Unit: Stock Skoda.

Amps:

Amp 1: Digital designs DD CM1
Amp 2: Mosconi Gladen One 120.4

Processor: Audison Bit ten.

Wiring:

Front two high level speaker line out from the HU have been routed to the DSP where it is split into five channels to actively feed the front mids and tweeters and the sub using 120.4 and CM1 resp. The rear two channels of the HU are running the stock speakers as rear fills.

Am I doing it right?

Further, I am finding it problematic tuning the processor. So, need your guidance.

[navin]

Originally Posted by deepfusion

Head Unit: Stock Skoda.
Amps:
Amp 1: Digital designs DD CM1
Amp 2: Mosconi Gladen One 120.4
Processor: Audison Bit ten.

Front two high level speaker line out from the HU have been routed to the DSP where it is split into five channels to actively feed the front mids and tweeters and the sub using 120.4 and CM1 resp. The rear two channels of the HU are running the stock speakers as rear fills.

Am I doing it right?.

If you do this the Audison has no control over the rear fills. Your option is to use the Bit One instead or if you want to use rear fill you will need to first tune with rear speakers turned off (on the HU's fader) and then bring the rear fill in to taste.

[deepfusion]

Originally Posted by navin

If you do this the Audison has no control over the rear fills. Your option is to use the Bit One instead or if you want to use rear fill you will need to first tune with rear speakers turned off (on the HU's fader) and then bring the rear fill in to taste.

I am doing exactly that. Fader has been moved to front only.

The tuning is presenting certain issues. One of which is that only the left tweeter is playing sound. Right is not. I have tried changing the rca at DSP and amp, but this problem is not getting resolved. I thought may be the wiring is at fault, but that too is not the problem.

[heydj]

Originally Posted by kaushik_s

Now, I am bit confused about the amplifier to use here. I had Focal Solid 4 Amp before and I liked the sound quality of that. Con was that it used to cut off at times and that was very irritating experience.
If not Focal Solid 4 then what other amplifiers should I look into?
Budget is 15k for the amp and have separate budget for wiring etc.
Please help me out here as I'm not able to decide on anything at all.

I have no knowledge of Solid 4 but from my understanding if its cutting off then few reasons could be 1. Wiring fault 2. Location of install offered poor ventilation 3. Amp itself is not made well 4. etc etc.

I will not say it can be because of long usage because I have two cars in one there is Kenwood 4 channel class D amp with cooling fan. This has never tripped even though I have heard trance music with sub at high volumes for 5-6 hours straight. This amp is still going strong after 7 years of usage.

In my other car there is Digital Design class AB amp and this again has never tripped, longest I have used it is for 4 hours straight with sub and high volumes. Only 1 year has passed.

I would suggest try to get at root cause why Solid 4 is tripping or cutting off for you and after that it turns out not amp fault then go ahead buy again.

Else within 12k-18k budget try DD, Kenwood, or Rockford (have never used it but heard good things about the same)

[HighwayofLife]

Originally Posted by kaushik_s

If not Focal Solid 4 then what other amplifiers should I look into? I saw Inifinity Kappa 4 on Snapdeal for around 15k+ couple of days back. Is it genuine product? How is Kappa 4 compared to Solid 4? Another advantage of Solid 4 is the ability to take Speaker level inputs as i20 AVN doesn't have any pre-outs.
Budget is 15k for the amp and have separate budget for wiring etc.
Please help me out here as I'm not able to decide on anything at all.
Thanks,

There's a few good ones at this budget from Hertz, Arc Audio, Rockford Fosgate, Bull Audio, and Digital Designs. If you raise your budget to about 22K, Rainbow Audio is within reach and I can vouch for their quality, since I'm using two Rainbow amps in my set-up

[navin]

Originally Posted by deepfusion

I am doing exactly that. Fader has been moved to front only....

Ok lets start slowly. Remove the Audison DSP from the equation. Connect HU to speakers and see if speakers are working. Then add amp and see if speakers are still working. Then add the DSP. If the DSP can be reset, reset it.

[BB311]

Hi Gurus,

I have already upgraded my Ecosport's stock setup with the following parts "
- DLS MA RZ 6.2 components Front
- DLS MA RCS6.2 components Rear
- DD Audio A4 four channel Amplifier
- Focal 12" sub enclosure
- STP Damping on doors
- Mercury Premium Gold Dampening on Boot
- Scosche Converter
- Scosche Wiring

I would like to know, which Mono-Amp to go for ? Also, Do I need to add a processor ? If yes, what will be the benefits and costs involved ?

Thanks !!!

[deepfusion]

Originally Posted by navin

Ok lets start slowly. Remove the Audison DSP from the equation. Connect HU to speakers and see if speakers are working. Then add amp and see if speakers are still working. Then add the DSP. If the DSP can be reset, reset it.

I shall try this tomorrow evening. Will update the results.

[deepfusion]

Originally Posted by BB311

Hi Gurus,

I have already upgraded my Ecosport's stock setup with the following parts "
- DLS MA RZ 6.2 components Front
- DLS MA RCS6.2 components Rear
- DD Audio A4 four channel Amplifier
- Focal 12" sub enclosure
- STP Damping on doors
- Mercury Premium Gold Dampening on Boot
- Scosche Converter
- Scosche Wiring

I would like to know, which Mono-Amp to go for ? Also, Do I need to add a processor ? If yes, what will be the benefits and costs involved ?

Thanks !!!

IMHO, you must have a processor. I am in the middle of an install in my car, which also has the stock HU, and the preliminary results, though I have just been able to give an ear to it, are brilliant. And I am convinced it would be awesome.

So, if possible, go for it.

[deepfusion]

Originally Posted by navin

Ok lets start slowly. Remove the Audison DSP from the equation. Connect HU to speakers and see if speakers are working. Then add amp and see if speakers are still working. Then add the DSP. If the DSP can be reset, reset it.

Checked. One tweeter is toast.

Now I shall have to look for tweeters that can handle the power given by gladen one-120.4.

Pls guide me on buying capable tweeters.