[greenhorn]

there are no mid end active subs - they're either very cheap, or too expensive. I've already mentioned the pros of a tube - they're cheap and they're loud. Works good for certain genres of music (hip hop etc) and are okay if you are on a budget, and *some* bass will do . What's your budget?

[IshaanIan]

Originally Posted by greenhorn

there are no mid end active subs - they're either very cheap, or too expensive. I've already mentioned the pros of a tube - they're cheap and they're loud. Works good for certain genres of music (hip hop etc) and are okay if you are on a budget, and *some* bass will do . What's your budget?

Thanks for clearing that out I was hoping to be able to get one for under 15000 preferably closer to the 10k price point. Could you recommend anything at that price?

[greenhorn]

find a good installer, get a subwoofer (~4.5K) MDF box (<2K, but worth spending for this - and branded enclosures arent worth it), and 4K for a 2 channel amp, more if you have front speakers and want a 4 channel

[IshaanIan]

Originally Posted by greenhorn

find a good installer, get a subwoofer (~4.5K) MDF box (<2K, but worth spending for this - and branded enclosures arent worth it), and 4K for a 2 channel amp, more if you have front speakers and want a 4 channel

Thanks I was actually wondering if you could recommend a specific model oh and my budget is 10-15 for the sub and box. The amp will be extra . I will be running Focal K2 Power 165KR comps in front and JBL GTO 949 coaxials in the rear and the speakers will be powered by a four channel amp, I am told the subwoofer will need another amp which they call a monoblock or something so could you please recommend a good subwoofer?

[greenhorn]

nah, there are too many brands out there. finding a good installer is important. Find one and let us know what brands/models he stocks. A monoblock is again a bit out of your price range, and the cheaper monoblocks are all Class AB, so not much difference from a bridged stereo amp.

[sups]

Need expert's help for my toyota liva ICE setup. I am not a bass heavy person, need a clear mid range and crisp high. I do not listen at a very high volume. Budget around: 20K. The local ICE people have suggested the following:

Pioneer 759BT HU (~10K)
Infinity 9603 6" x 9" speaker (~4 to 5K)
Matching Infinity 6" speakers with tweeter (~5.5K)
Damping material (~2.5K)

Is it a good choice in that price range?

[DerAlte]

Originally Posted by sups

... Is it a good choice in that price range?

Yes, that seems to be a good choice for you. BTW, the "Infinity 6" speakers with tweeter (~5.5K)" is actually a set of Infinity 6.5" components - good choice for the front.

[sups]

Originally Posted by DerAlte

Yes, that seems to be a good choice for you. BTW, the "Infinity 6" speakers with tweeter (~5.5K)" is actually a set of Infinity 6.5" components - good choice for the front.

Thanks for the reassuring comments. How necessary is it to go for the damping material? Diffeerent people have different opinion on this.

Just for the sake of information, how should be the next set of better speakers and what will be the price range?

[DerAlte]

Originally Posted by sups

... How necessary is it to go for the damping material? ...
... how should be the next set of better speakers and what will be the price range?

Damping: no dilemma there, damping substantially reduces noise (road / tyre noise and panel resonance). Lesser the noise, the more one gets to hear music that was lost in that noise.

Not sure whether higher price speakers can be called 'better' - it is a matter of personal perception and hearing. The next higher cost components would be in the 10-12K bracket (Infinity Kappa, Rainbow, DLS low-end, etc.). After that, the cost generally doubles with every higher range.

[sups]

Originally Posted by DerAlte

Damping: no dilemma there, damping substantially reduces noise (road / tyre noise and panel resonance). Lesser the noise, the more one gets to hear music that was lost in that noise.

Thanks again. I also had the idea that the dampening would reduce the tyre/road noise as well along with vibration. But the ICE installer said that his dampening would not reduce road noise, but would reduce vibration. Thats where I am confused.

By the way, can you please recommend some good dampening material? The installer was saying that he would use dynamite extreme material. Liva diesel is a noisy car. So, need to take care of the noise properly.

[IshaanIan]

Originally Posted by sups

Thanks again. I also had the idea that the dampening would reduce the tyre/road noise as well along with vibration. But the ICE installer said that his dampening would not reduce road noise, but would reduce vibration. Thats where I am confused.

By the way, can you please recommend some good dampening material? The installer was saying that he would use dynamite extreme material. Liva diesel is a noisy car. So, need to take care of the noise properly.

It all depends on how well your car is insulated from the outside noise and clatter. If it isn't, then damping is a wise choice every sort of dampening will reduce road noise to an extent I would suggest dynamat. Oh and when it comes to stuff like this, make sure the installation is done properly otherwise you will end up with a car that is quieter on the inside but has rattly door panels and windows. Make sure the installation job is top-notch

[DerAlte]

Originally Posted by sups

... the ICE installer said that his dampening would not reduce road noise, but would reduce vibration. Thats where I am confused. ...

I am not sure either of what he is saying, but I think he is trying to say the same.

Damping does not reduce 'vibrations' that one feels transmitted directly via the floor pan and the seats, which is usually < 20Hz. Harmonics of these are heard as rumbling, and that affects the lower bass. Though car manufacturers provide some damping, this can be reduced further with more damping sheets or closed cell foam below the carpet.

Damping specifically for ICE reduces 'induced noise', induced by chassis / suspension to the door panels and door pads, in the 50Hz-1Khz range. This range coincides with a lot of music content. Ergo ...

'Rattling' is simply reduced by staying down loose cables & wires with hot-melt glue, pieces of damping material or double-sided tape, or even well-positioned rolls of cotton waste or closed-cell foam.

Dynamat Extreme is perhaps the costliest, and perhaps the most effective. I think the installer only meant to damp the front doors. There are other brands which are cheaper and maybe almost as effective. Check the ICE threads for the names - there are couple of threads in the Product section specifically dealing with this issue. At a pinch, you can buy the material and apply it yourself. Not a difficult job, as long as you are DIY oriented and can open the door pad.

Reducing the engine noise infiltrating into the cabin is a bigger job. This will require you to take out the dash and apply damping sheets to the firewall / foot-well area.

[eyes09]

Hi Gurus,


I am planning to upgrade ice in my Figo and need suggestion on the same.

Ideal Setup :Pro Integration 4channel
Morel Tempo 6 Comps for front.
Amp confused
Woofer confused

Please suggest

[navin]

Originally Posted by eyes09

Hi Gurus,
I am planning to upgrade ice in my Figo and need suggestion on the same.

Ideal Setup :Pro Integration 4channel
Morel Tempo 6 Comps for front.
Amp confused
Woofer confused

Please suggest

What do you mean by "Pro Integration"? *confused*

[eyes09]

Originally Posted by navin

What do you mean by "Pro Integration"? *confused*

Hi DHC pro is a 4 channel line output converter as I am using the factory HU.