[akshay386]

Originally Posted by Aroy

Inherited this tool from a friend's grandfather. Can some one tell me what it is and where is it used

Attachment 1640460

Current home for my sockets and accessories
Attachment 1640461

some of my longer tools
Attachment 1640462

First image of tool is of bearing puller - used to pull the bearings from shaft

2) ratchet socket set

3) Ring spanner set

[manishalive]

Originally Posted by Aroy

Inherited this tool from a friend's grandfather. Can some one tell me what it is and where is it used

Wow never seen this before. It is certainly not a bearing puller. What it could be?

I have this dremel tool and a hobby vice, both doing good duty to my regular work. The black box is extra set of bits from UK.

[drsingh]

What is the right way to drill a hole through the roof for water supply and then seal it back up?

[rdst_1]

Originally Posted by drsingh

What is the right way to drill a hole through the roof for water supply and then seal it back up?

That would depend on what the roof is made of?

[drsingh]

Originally Posted by rdst_1

That would depend on what the roof is made of?

Concrete.laid in rebar. Like all brick buildings in North India.

[rdst_1]

Originally Posted by drsingh

Concrete.laid in rebar. Like all brick buildings in North India.

Just drill the required hole, insert the pipe and fill the rest of the hole with mortar mixture. If you make a clean hole, there won't be much to fill up and even just cement and sand mix should be enough.

For accurate drilling, one needs a rotary hammer drill equipped with a core drill bit which can go through rebar reinforced mortar. Most masoners will however have only a chipping bit and use that instead. It gets the job done but makes a bigger mess than required.If nothing, I have seen skilled masoners use just a chisel and a hammer to achieve the desired result.

P.S. - Not all brick buildings in N. India necessarily have a concrete roof. Mine is made of corrugated steel sheets as are most others in the hilly areas like mine.

[eko]

Originally Posted by drsingh

Concrete.laid in rebar. Like all brick buildings in North India.

Drilling is the best option. You can consider buying a drilling machine. I would prefer Makita. Better to avoid using chisel and hammer. This can lead to cracks, even though not immediate. The hole can be closed with mortar. It is very important to do curing with water for a week, after filling the hole. Also try to fill the hole during the hottest time of the day.

[Aroy]

Originally Posted by drsingh

What is the right way to drill a hole through the roof for water supply and then seal it back up?

This is a bit tricky. The roof is generally concrete with rebar. That is covered with mud or sealant and then usually with brick tiles topped up with cement slurry. So you have quite a bit of thickens to cover. You have also to be careful in resealing the area around the hole that you have drilled, else the roof will leak in heavy showers. Add to that possibility of damaging the rebar and the plot thickens.

A step-by-step instruction :

. Clean a patch of the roof - about 30cm x 30 cm, where you want the pipe to enter.
. Lift/break the brick tiles in this area.
. Clean any sealant that may have been applied.
. Use a hammer drill with a long bit. I normally start with a 6mm or 8mm bit. Drill the pilot hole through and through.
. If you are inserting 1/2" pipe then use a 16mm bit else use a 25mm bit to enlarge the hole. These long carbide tipped masonry bits are available with 8 or 10mm shank, so fit normal drills used.
.If the pipe is snug fit then just push it through, else if it is loose fit then it is best to use a few layers of tar cloth.
. Now finish the plumbing and check for leaks. Seal all the leaks and wait for a day.
After you have assured that the pipe is fitted properly and does not leak, start sealing the hole
- First spray sealant all around the area where the pipe enters the roof. Make sure that it enters the space between the pipe and the hole in the roof.
- Next repair the brick tile layer by replacing the tiles with new ones. Use rich cement mortar below and around the tiles.
- Coat the freshly laid tiles with rick cement slurry to about 50cm beyond the new tiles.

This is the time to clean the terrace and rejuvenate the surface with fresh cement slurry. That will go a long way in preserving waterproofing of the roof.

You can see the long drill bits at the bottom drawer (around the handle). They are 6mm, 8mm, 12mm and 20mm. The 20mm is 400mm long.

[rdst_1]

Originally Posted by Aroy

This is a bit tricky. The roof is generally concrete with rebar. That is covered with mud or sealant and then usually with brick tiles topped up with cement slurry. So you have quite a bit of thickens to cover. You have also to be careful in resealing the area around the hole that you have drilled, else the roof will leak in heavy showers. Add to that possibility of damaging the rebar and the plot thickens.

Don't know about the roof in question but most roofs are usually just concrete with rebar. Haven't seen mud, sealant etc. used on roofs a lot. At best people just put regular tiles over the concrete and be done with that.

A simple hammer drill will take too long and give a lot of vibrations when drilling through thick mortar mix. A rotary hammer drill is much more suited and if equipped with a core drill bit will ensure a very clean hole with not much maintenance to take care of afterwards.

[drsingh]

Originally Posted by Aroy

. Use a hammer drill with a long bit. I normally start with a 6mm or 8mm bit. Drill the pilot hole through and through.
. If you are inserting 1/2" pipe then use a 16mm bit else use a 25mm bit to enlarge the hole. These long carbide tipped masonry bits are available with 8 or 10mm shank, so fit normal drills used.


You can see the long drill bits at the bottom drawer (around the handle). They are 6mm, 8mm, 12mm and 20mm. The 20mm is 400mm long.

Thanks for the detailed reply.I am going to assess the situation again and see if I can get away with drilling the overhang/ledge part of the roof and take the pipe in from outside to avoid drilling into the actual roof inside the house.

I also own a Hitachi DV13 ss model impact drill which has a hammer action.It is just 450 watts.Is it play to put an oversized concrete bit on this?let's say a 26 mm bit? Can I use 26 mm core drilling bits with this ?

Thanks in advance.

[Aroy]

Originally Posted by drsingh

Thanks for the detailed reply.I am going to assess the situation again and see if I can get away with drilling the overhang/ledge part of the roof and take the pipe in from outside to avoid drilling into the actual roof inside the house.

I also own a Hitachi DV13 ss model impact drill which has a hammer action.It is just 450 watts.Is it play to put an oversized concrete bit on this?let's say a 26 mm bit? Can I use 26 mm core drilling bits with this ?

Thanks in advance.

It is never a good idea to drill the terrace/roof. A better option as you have realised is to bring the pipes through the walls. The process is same as for roof, except that there will be no insulation/waterproofing material to deal with.

NOTE try to drill the hole in wall at an angle - downwards from inside out. That will ensure that any water flows towards outside.

As long as you drill slowly and do not press the drill to speed up the process it is fine. A low power drill will take more time, but will get the job done eventually. As such overloading heats up the drill, which will burn the insulation and short out the winding - burnt motor. As long as it does not heat up much it is fine. If the drill body heats up to uncomfortable degree while drilling, ease off for a few minutes and then continue once it has cooled off.

[drsingh]

Some philosophy for the thread.

https://books.google.co.in/books?id=...arlyle&f=false

Thomas Carlyle.

[Thad E Ginathom]

It is amazing that, for so long, use of tools was considered a uniquely human quality, when other creatures around us were busy... using tools.

Imagine what crows could do if someone gave them the key to the workshop!

[eko]

New cutter from ROCO brand. Very handy and is only 8 cm long. Available for Rs 100 in KSA. Has double side short blade. Good for office and home.

[Thad E Ginathom]

Trivia fact (at least I hope it's a fact).

The great granddaddy of these ubiquitous knives was the Stanley Knife. Some of us still think of them by that name. I think I first encountered them in the hands of guys who fitted wall-to-wall carpet.