[userAditya]

Originally Posted by FrozeninTime

Also Z connect is not working and still shows vehicle is in factory. KYC was done few days ago. Should I contact showroom or service centre?

Z Connect is full of bugs in my opinion. But still it would be better to discuss this with your dealer.

[vj_v3]

Originally Posted by userAditya

Z Connect is full of bugs in my opinion. But still it would be better to discuss this with your dealer.

If you did not get similar messages, your KYC is not done correctly, reach out to the showroom again. Someone will call and ask for OTP for activation.

1. Dear User, The verification code for your vehicle KYC is 965016. This OTP is valid only for 30 minutes.

2. Dear Customer, KYC documents have been successfully received for TATA MOTORS LIMITED vehicle In case we need any additional information, we will reach out to you.

3. Dear xxxx, the eSIM for your TATA MOTORS LIMITED Vehicle has been activated. Enjoy your connected vehicle experience.

[drive_angry]

Hi, is there any update on how the battery pack/cells are going to be changed after 8 years and what would be the cost of the same. My sales officer was quoting 15,000 per cell for an array of 12 cells (He was not sure though). Anyone here has idea on how the same is going to be like after 8 years once the cover period is over?

[bhargav_dave]

Originally Posted by FrozeninTime

Today I connected slow charger to my Tiago EV. Even after 3 hrs the battery percentage is still same at 75%. Is it normal?

Also Z connect is not working and still shows vehicle is in factory. KYC was done few days ago. Should I contact showroom or service centre?

It took around 2-3 days AFTER the KYC for the zconnect app to show proper details. However as others have reported it's not that accurate after all. I haven't had a chance to test it properly yet but it doesn't update/sync instantly and commands won't go through as expected.

[abhatt]

I am leaning towards selling my 9.5 year old Polo for Tiago EV. Would Medium range suffice for a weekly driving of 150km? This would be my 2nd car and strictly for city driving only or should I consider spending 1L more on the Long Range XT variant?

All i need is an automatic, small and budget car for daily driving in heavy Bangalore traffic.

[abc_xyz]

My vehicle makes a "drrrrrrr" sound while accelerating and regenerating. Initially, I thought that this sound is normal. But, having read several times that the EV drive is very silent, I always had a nagging doubt that there is a problem with the vehicle. Vehicle diagnostic report also did not show any abnormalities.

Recently I took my vehicle to the service center for scheduled servicing. I specifically asked my service advisor to ask their mechanic to test drive the car and confirm if the sound is normal or abnormal.

The mechanic was very busy during the day replacing the battery pack of a Nexon EV. He finally managed some time in the evening and we went for a drive in the car.

He immediately told me that this noise is not normal. We went back to the workshop where he lifted the car up and checked if anything is sticking into the Tyres or any other moving parts. He then started the vehicle and spun the tyres. He asked his colleagues to identify the location of the sound. It appears that the sound is coming somewhere near the motor.

The mechanic says that this is the first time this problem has been reported in a Tiago EV. He said this problem had occurred in a Nexon EV and it was rectified.

He called his engineer who apparently asked for some data. The mechanic says that he requires 2 days to collect this data. This data will be forwarded to the engineer who will decide the next course of action.

All this happened yesterday. Let's see how it goes.

I looked up this issue in the Internet and found a post in our Team BHP forum where it was mentioned that this problem in nexon is due to a misalignment of a wahser. Link to this post is given below:

https://www.team-bhp.com/forum/elect...on-ev-max.html (Solved! Knocking sound & driveshaft issue in my Tata Nexon EV Max)

[vj_v3]

Originally Posted by drive_angry

Hi, is there any update on how the battery pack/cells are going to be changed after 8 years and what would be the cost of the same. My sales officer was quoting 15,000 per cell for an array of 12 cells (He was not sure though). Anyone here has idea on how the same is going to be like after 8 years once the cover period is over?

there are over 500 Cylindrical (not prismatic) cells in the tiago battery pack. so just imagine the cost of the battery pack if you go by the Rs.15000 per cell calculation. And the array of 12 cells is also wrong.

Ice cars have a 3yrs or 160000 kms warranty, do all these cars stop working as soon as the warranty ends? Likewise, the LFP batteries have lot more cycles than the 160K/ 8 yrs would cover.

Given the long warranties on the battery packs, not a lot of battery packs are entering the open/refurbish market right now. In 2-3 yrs from now, a lot of cars will cross the 160K kms warranty limit and new refurbish companies open up in the market. The price of cells and replacement will depend on how technology progresses by then and how cell manufacturing advances in india. Its a bit difficult to predict what the prices will be after 8 yrs.

but, given the rapid adoption that we are seeing right now, things are expected to be in the positive direction than in the negative direction. If you do not have enough confidence, you probably have to postpone your ev purchase to 8 yrs later

[vj_v3]

Originally Posted by abhatt

I am leaning towards selling my 9.5 year old Polo for Tiago EV. Would Medium range suffice for a weekly driving of 150km? This would be my 2nd car and strictly for city driving only or should I consider spending 1L more on the Long Range XT variant?

All i need is an automatic, small and budget car for daily driving in heavy Bangalore traffic.

If your daily range requirement wont exceed 120 kms in any season, you can happily go ahead with the MR. Even with a higher range requirement you can rely on the fast charger network but if your daily requirement on most days is over 120, then better to go with LR.

Ps: the MR will do more than 120 for most people but i am quoting this number as a worst case scenario covering hot summers and very poor driving practises.

[drive_angry]

Originally Posted by vj_v3

Ice cars have a 3yrs or 160000 kms warranty, do all these cars stop working as soon as the warranty ends? Likewise, the LFP batteries have lot more cycles than the 160K/ 8 yrs would cover.

but, given the rapid adoption that we are seeing right now, things are expected to be in the positive direction than in the negative direction. If you do not have enough confidence, you probably have to postpone your ev purchase to 8 yrs later

Thank you for you reply. The main reason to ask the battery replacement question was to mainly access how much investment would be required more once the battery cells needs replacement and would I be able to breakeven when compared to ICE engine's running cost

One more question, the normal AC charger takes about 6-7 hours to fully charge the battery. Since most of the owners leave charging overnight, is there any smart plug that one can use to auto switch off the current when the vehicle is fully charged? I guess charging battery after it has been fully charged would adversely affect the battery life. Thanks!

[vj_v3]

Originally Posted by drive_angry

Thank you for you reply. The main reason to ask the battery replacement question was to mainly access how much investment would be required more once the battery cells needs replacement and would I be able to breakeven when compared to ICE engine's running cost

One more question, the normal AC charger takes about 6-7 hours to fully charge the battery. Since most of the owners leave charging overnight, is there any smart plug that one can use to auto switch off the current when the vehicle is fully charged? I guess charging battery after it has been fully charged would adversely affect the battery life. Thanks!

Your thought proccess is ok but what i was trying to infer is that it is difficult to predict cost after 8 yrs. if you go by current cost, it wont make economic sense but there is absolutely no reason to go by the current costs given how the EV space is evolving. Cost will almost certainly go down and there will most likely be 3rd party companies that can fix individual cells easily.


The tiago takes about 9.5 + hrs to charge using the portable charger and about 4.5-5 hrs using the 7.2 kw EVSE. You absolutely need not worry about overcharging the EV by leaving it plugged in. The OBC and BMS will auto cutoff power when the battery is fully charged without needing any user intervention at all. This is the last thing for you to worry about.

[electric_eel]

Originally Posted by abhatt

All i need is an automatic, small and budget car for daily driving in heavy Bangalore traffic.

I think only you can be the best judge of your requirement. But here is a point to consider: An EV like the tiago ev might surprise you with its torque, refinement etc that
you might not want to touch your primary car. I would not be surprised if you would take it out as a highway car at some point of time. So I would suggest going for the longest
range (if you can afford it) lest you regret it latter. I think you can save a bit by not asking for the 7.2 KW charger.

[chinkara]

So we had a bug which mysteriously corrected itself. Sometimes after starting the car just would not go to D or R mode - we thought it may be detecting the charging on, so tried correcting that. Then read somewhere about pressing the brakes on starting - tried that, worked sometimes but not all times. It was like 90s computer, you switch it off and on again and then in the 7th try it would finally start.

Booked a service (due in Aug anyway) to get it checked. Then suddenly the problem disappeared. Last 4-5 days it starts perfectly in first crank (or whatever its battery equivalent is)!!!

[electric_eel]

Originally Posted by chinkara

So we had a bug which mysteriously corrected itself. Sometimes after starting the car just would not go to D or R mode - we thought it may be detecting the charging on, so tried correcting that. Then read somewhere about pressing the brakes on starting - tried that, worked sometimes but not all times. It was like 90s computer, you switch it off and on again and then in the 7th try it would finally start.

Booked a service (due in Aug anyway) to get it checked. Then suddenly the problem disappeared. Last 4-5 days it starts perfectly in first crank (or whatever its battery equivalent is)!!!

Make sure that you check your Low voltage battery (12 V). Things can get funny if
that is not in good shape.

[Nanolover]

Originally Posted by chinkara

So we had a bug which mysteriously corrected itself. Sometimes after starting the car just would not go to D or R mode - we thought it may be detecting the charging on, so tried correcting that. Then read somewhere about pressing the brakes on starting - tried that, worked sometimes but not all times. It was like 90s computer, you switch it off and on again and then in the 7th try it would finally start.

Booked a service (due in Aug anyway) to get it checked. Then suddenly the problem disappeared. Last 4-5 days it starts perfectly in first crank (or whatever its battery equivalent is)!!!

This is quite common. Upon pressing start double check to see if the " Ready" is showing under the N symbol. If not , you need to press the start button once again,then it will show Ready under N. Then only can you toggle the drive selector. Else it will continue beeping and willnot engage D or R. Assuming your model is the one with smart key. Have the same situation off and on in my tigor especially after full charging.

[chinkara]

Originally Posted by electric_eel

Make sure that you check your Low voltage battery (12 V). Things can get funny if
that is not in good shape.

That doesn't seem to be the problem.

This is quite common. Upon pressing start double check to see if the " Ready" is showing under the N symbol. If not , you need to press the start button once again,then it will show Ready under N. Then only can you toggle the drive selector. Else it will continue beeping and willnot engage D or R. Assuming your model is the one with smart key. Have the same situation off and on in my tigor especially after full charging.

This is also not the problem. We know that sometimes the button needs pressing twice. It would not work even if pressed 4-5 times.