[navin]

Originally Posted by tsk1979

Once you have a JPEG you can't do much with it.
However with a RAW you can

Hey no one disputes that RAW is beter than 10/18 MP JPG but I guess it is the need of the hour.

RAW files mean that the files have to downloaded to a PC (processed and then converted to JPG for general viewing) which I dont do. I stick the memory card into a PS3 and watch the photos on my TV.

It is sort of akin to ripping CDs to 256/320k MP3s instead of FLAC/Lossless. MP3s can be played on almost any MP3 player but Lossless (except for ALAC) needs to be converted to MP3 to be used on most MP3 players. However for most non-cirtical applications 256/320k MP3s do the job.

[Aroy]

Originally Posted by navin

Hey no one disputes that RAW is beter than 10/18 MP JPG but I guess it is the need of the hour.

RAW files mean that the files have to downloaded to a PC (processed and then converted to JPG for general viewing) which I dont do. I stick the memory card into a PS3 and watch the photos on my TV.

It is sort of akin to ripping CDs to 256/320k MP3s instead of FLAC/Lossless. MP3s can be played on almost any MP3 player but Lossless (except for ALAC) needs to be converted to MP3 to be used on most MP3 players. However for most non-cirtical applications 256/320k MP3s do the job.

Actually it depends on what is the purpose of shooting. If it is to document your travel and watch them on monitor or make small prints or share them on face book, then a DSLR is over kill, you need a 5-10MP camera at the most. Most of the top of the line P&S will do a much better job of it, be much smaller and reasonably weather resistant to boot. On the other hand if you are into serious photography and want to extract the most from your images, DSLR + RAW is the way to go.

Traveling with DSLR requires quite some logistics, in fact I am saddled with two DSLR and three SLR between myself and two sons, and yearn for a P&S when on the move as at times the (D)SLR are too bulky, hence most of my travel photography for the last three years has been on my trusty Nokia, perfect for documentation and posting/sharing.

[amitk26]

Originally Posted by navin

It is sort of akin to ripping CDs to 256/320k MP3s instead of FLAC/Lossless. MP3s can be played on almost any MP3 player but Lossless (except for ALAC) needs to be converted to MP3 to be used on most MP3 players. However for most non-cirtical applications 256/320k MP3s do the job.

Navin ji a critical difference between Audio and Photo is that Human ears are quite poor receptors if you compare them to the available equipments / formats and also with ears of other mammals.

where as color /tone reception of human eye far exceeds the display technology available today and also most of the other mammals this is the reason any normal human can easily distinguish between a 16 bit imagae and 24 bit or an IPS panel or TN panel , He may not be able to exactly say what is the difference but he can perceive what is better.

People claim they can see 11-12 colors at the most but that is the color they can name ( cultural / linguistic aspect) where as actually they can see thousands of shades of same color distinctly.

Information archived in RAW enables to play with these subtleties of human vision.

[shajufx]

Originally Posted by bikxsans660

.....I would certainly recommend a Hoya ND x2, x4 or x8 (depends upon your usage) or try a Kenko ND filter......have been using Hoya UV and ND for some time now and must say i am satisfied till date.

Originally Posted by rajb3125

....I have used Lee, Hitech (hitek??), Hoya and Cokin. Anything other than Lee leaves a color cast on long exposures.

Thanks guys, I was not looking for a definition or the usages of ND filter but your own familiarity with different brands. Hoya is affordable and available, I am not very keen on Kenko. Best ones are anyway very expensive. I am looking at 4x and 8x filters. I have not heard about color cast from anyone so far. As far as I understand ND restricts the light into your sensor, nothing to do with colors.

[kaushik_s]

Originally Posted by shajufx

Thanks guys, I was not looking for a definition or the usages of ND filter but your own familiarity with different brands. Hoya is affordable and available, I am not very keen on Kenko. Best ones are anyway very expensive. I am looking at 4x and 8x filters. I have not heard about color cast from anyone so far. As far as I understand ND restricts the light into your sensor, nothing to do with colors.

I'm using a Marumi Super DHG ND. It works fine and seems to be much better buy than an equivalent Hoya as the price is lower. Don't buy the cheap Marumi's though, they are not good and probably here in India only the cheap ones are available. This one is a 2-stop ND.

[aburagohain]

I sometimes use a Kenko 67mm 3-stop with step down rings as required, no problem as such. Go for the biggest dia of your lenses while purchasing the filter and use step down rings for smaller lenses.
I suspect Kenko and Hoya are the same filters, just different branding in and out of Japan.

[rajb3125]

Originally Posted by shajufx

Thanks guys, I was not looking for a definition or the usages of ND filter but your own familiarity with different brands. Hoya is affordable and available, I am not very keen on Kenko. Best ones are anyway very expensive. I am looking at 4x and 8x filters. I have not heard about color cast from anyone so far. As far as I understand ND restricts the light into your sensor, nothing to do with colors.

Okay. My familiarity with ND filters is Lee has almost no color cast. Hoya has distinct Green color cast while Cokin has ugly purple color cast. Hitech has less color cast than others but more than Lee and is pinkish-magenta color cast. I have yet to try Singh-Ray and B&W filters.

I am sorry but If you havn't heard of color cast issues then you have not done your research yet.

Originally Posted by aburagohain

I suspect Kenko and Hoya are the same filters, just different branding in and out of Japan.

Think of Kenko as Lenovo and Hoya as IBM

A cheap way to get ND filter is to get knock-off of Cokin P series rings and then get Welding glass (piece of glass used on Welding helmets) and mount it on the rings. All you need to do is adjust white balance and you are good to go.

While we are experimenting, one can make a VariND filter by using 2x polarisers (One filter needs to be reversed inside the ring), comes quite handy.

[amitk26]

Shaju as you own keep on purchasing selling lenses a lot , I think a Cokin P type holder with ring size matching your lens is best solution.

If you are interested in Hoya buy from interfoto on infantry road who are genuine dealers in India , Rest of them are fakes and no point spending money.,

BTW : I purchased cheap delhi made OMAX ND filter from ebay.in they are good and do not produce any color cast , I find them at par with or better then any fake filter.

[shajufx]

Originally Posted by kaushik_s

I'm using a Marumi Super DHG ND. It works fine and seems to be much better buy than an equivalent Hoya as the price is lower...

Originally Posted by aburagohain

I sometimes use a Kenko 67mm 3-stop with step down rings as required, no problem as such. Go for the biggest dia of your lenses.....

Thanks guys. My 70-200 is 77mm and the potential UWA will be Tokina 11-16 or 12-24 or Sigma 10-20 all of them are 77mm. So, its now Hoya HMC Vs Marumi super DHG. What Kaushik said is right, most shops stock the cheapest Marumi filters. As someone said, cheapest filter can downgrade PRO glass to a kit lens. So, its better to use a kit lens than buying an expensive lens and put a 500 bucks filter on it, more applicable to UV filters that stay always ON.

Amit, no more buy sell habits. Whatever is bought since Jan 2011, remains with me Thanks for the info, I will visit them on weekend.

[amitk26]

Originally Posted by shajufx

Thanks guys. My 70-200 is 77mm and the potential UWA will be Tokina 11-16 or 12-24 or Sigma 10-20 all of them are 77mm. So, its now Hoya HMC Vs Marumi super DHG. What Kaushik said is right, most shops stock the cheapest Marumi filters. As someone said, cheapest filter can downgrade PRO glass to a kit lens. So, its better to use a kit lens than buying an expensive lens and put a 500 bucks filter on it, more applicable to UV filters that stay always ON.

Amit, no more buy sell habits. Whatever is bought since Jan 2011, remains with me Thanks for the info, I will visit them on weekend.

Ok if UWA is on cards do not buy thick rimmed Hoya HMC it will cause vignetting for anything below 18mm, You need slim profile Hoya Pro 1 D or Kenko Pro 1 D both are actually same produced by Tokina in Japan but Hoya costs a bomb due to brand :-) I think 77 mm genuine Hoya Pro 1 D is between 9-10 K.

Actually I am also looking for 77mm CPL for my Sigma 10-20 and as of now my choices are

1. Kenko Pro 1 D CPL
2. Marumi Super DHG

Do let me know if you find someone selling genuine one in Bangalore. I am skeptical of e-bay sellers due to abundance of fakes.

EDIT : I was convinced couple of days back here that CPL is of no use due to banding but saw some photos due to which I think CPL on Sigma 10-20 is still useful , I avoid banding sun should be at your back.

[pawan_pullarwar]

Originally Posted by amitk26

Shaju as you own keep on purchasing selling lenses a lot , I think a Cokin P type holder with ring size matching your lens is best solution.

If you are interested in Hoya buy from interfoto on infantry road who are genuine dealers in India , Rest of them are fakes and no point spending money.,

BTW : I purchased cheap delhi made OMAX ND filter from ebay.in they are good and do not produce any color cast , I find them at par with or better then any fake filter.

I bought Coking P holders, they are good and can fit to many lenses but the downside is the size of the holder, everytime I have to remove the holders before placing the camera inside bag. Basically they are not good for travel photography.

[shajufx]

Originally Posted by rajb3125

....I am sorry but If you havn't heard of color cast issues then you have not done your research yet......get Welding glass (piece of glass used on Welding helmets) and mount it on the rings....

I meant a good quality ND may not have such color casts. Cheaper products always will have some compromise somewhere, be it any field of use. Welding glass is an alternative I heard from someone few days back, but as a BG (black glass) for higher light filtering. May be it could be compared to a 5 stop filter, not sure.

Originally Posted by amitk26

...Actually I am also looking for 77mm CPL for my Sigma 10-20 and as of now my choices are
1. Kenko Pro 1 D CPL
2. Marumi Super DHG
Do let me know if you find someone selling genuine one in Bangalore. I am skeptical of e-bay sellers due to abundance of fakes.
.......CPL is of no use due to banding......

I will be clear about my choice by weekend. About the CPL on UWA, there are many who are using without issues. May be its all about the angle of using it. I will not pick up from ebay for sure, because we have shops around here to see it before deciding. Even Jayesh keeps lot of filters ranging from 500 bucks to 15k. I saw someone picking up a Hoya for 9k, did not check details as I was busy testing my new 50mm 1.4 on a D300s body.

[bikxsans660]

Originally Posted by shajufx

Thanks guys, I was not looking for a definition or the usages of ND filter but your own familiarity with different brands. Hoya is affordable and available, I am not very keen on Kenko. Best ones are anyway very expensive. I am looking at 4x and 8x filters. I have not heard about color cast from anyone so far. As far as I understand ND restricts the light into your sensor, nothing to do with colors.

Hope you end getting a good buy. Whatever your usage maybe, but don't waste your money on cheap/fake stuff. All the best.

[navin]

Originally Posted by Aroy

Actually it depends on what is the purpose of shooting. If it is to document your travel and watch them on monitor or make small prints or share them on face book, then a DSLR is over kill.

We watch pictures on a 46/52" LCD. At least with the P&Ss we have used we can tell between a P&S and DSLR. I guess sensor size makes a big difference.

Originally Posted by amitk26

Navin ji a critical difference between Audio and Photo is that Human ears are quite poor receptors .

did you realise you just made this comment to someone who spent 35+ years folling around in Audio? No offense taken. I understand the point you are trying to make even though I have little understanding of Human Physiology.

Originally Posted by shajufx

Thanks guys. My 70-200 is 77mm and the potential UWA will be Tokina 11-16 or 12-24 or Sigma 10-20 all of them are 77mm.

Originally Posted by amitk26

You need slim profile Hoya Pro 1 D...I think 77 mm genuine Hoya Pro 1 D is between 9-10 K.

Shajufx, with that sort of glass to protect Amit's recomendation of the Hoya 1D is best. No point having a superb lens covered by ordinary glass.

[amitk26]

Originally Posted by navin

did you realise you just made this comment to someone who spent 35+ years folling around in Audio? No offense taken. I understand the point you are trying to make even though I have little understanding of Human Physiology.

Yes I know from the ICE thread so it was difficult to post but a FLAC from encoded HQ MP3 may be only an audiophile like you can differentiate where as in picture everyone finds out easily that 24bit image looks better then 16 bit.