[reignofchaos]

While I'd leave the rubber vs metal debate on its own, I whole heartedly believe in this :-

Originally Posted by cranky

One way out of the dichotomy is to use metal ball ends. We get near perfect energy transfer with none of the pitfalls of a pointy spike. This cannot be used on speakers because of the tendency to move, but a bit of flattening takes care of that too.

I recently got a set of Symposium Rollerblocks which use the exact technique mentioned above. I put it under my CD player and the difference has been pretty dramatic - cleaner bass, airier highs and a slight chestiness in the midrange has completely disappeared. The CD player was on its oe feet before and this made a pretty massive difference. I'd recommend this product under any tube equipment. It is expensive, but completely worth the money.

[cranky]

^^I would not suggest hastily assuming that commercial speaker manufacturers know what they are doing, or always need to be blindly followed. I have been in the business and if you are, you must be well aware of the kind of margins (and therefore the actual cost needed to build a commercial speaker and the compromises it entails) that speaker manufacturers actually have - not to mention dealers and retailers.

One has to apply intelligence and logic. Trusting a commercial manufacturer is not a sign of either. A speaker at the end of the day is a tool, not a bible.

Edit: the reply was not to you, S

[Harbir]

Originally Posted by reignofchaos

While I'd leave the rubber vs metal debate on its own, I whole heartedly believe in this :-



I recently got a set of Symposium Rollerblocks which use the exact technique mentioned above. I put it under my CD player and the difference has been pretty dramatic - cleaner bass, airier highs and a slight chestiness in the midrange has completely disappeared. The CD player was on its oe feet before and this made a pretty massive difference. I'd recommend this product under any tube equipment. It is expensive, but completely worth the money.

I'll believe that if you can demonstrate it in a double blind test.

and if you can, I will question whether it has to do with the unacceptably unstable transport of your particular CD player and whether you can repeat it with the CD player I use.

Originally Posted by cranky

^^I would not suggest hastily assuming that commercial speaker manufacturers know what they are doing, or always need to be blindly followed.

Sir, you don't need to suggest it. I follow it no more blindly than I would follow what people with no more crediblity than speaker engineers and manufacturers have to say about their products.

[Fillmore]

A friend of mine forwarded this.
Thought of posting here in case it comes in useful to anyone.

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Thanks
Fillmore

[rrswift]

Dear Audio gurus,
I have a requirement : I want to hook up a single pair of speakers for 2 inputs.
The 2 inputs are are coming from the same receiver.
Let me explain the situation.
I have a 5.1 speaker system connected to the yamaha receiver. I use bookshelf speakers for rear (surround) speakers and the distance between front and rear speakers is about 20 feet.
During night I would like to use only the rear speakers. For this I have to completely reduce the volume of front/MID/SUB so that I do not disturb others.
The receiver has an option for using B speaker set.

I would like to build a DIY switch, so that I can just switch to B speaker set on the receiver and not change any other settings.
Can any one suggest a schematic drawing for DIY or off the shelf product.

[DerAlte]

Get a DPDT toggle switch. That should have 3 pairs of terminals on it. The center pair is the common, and the switch connects the upper pair to it if the switch is in upper position, respectively lower pair if it is in lower position.

Connect the common terminal pair to the RL+RR bookshelf speakers (only one wire of the speaker wire pair needs to go through the switch. The other wire need not be connected to the switch - it can be 'through'. That way you can handle 2 speakers through 1 switch). Connect the upper pair to the RL+RR of A speaker set, and the lower pair to the B speaker set. In the upper switch position it will play the rear speakers alongwith all the others, in the lower switch position it will play only the rear bookshelf speakers. Keep the switch near/behind the receiver.

Mount the switch in a small plastic box so that there is no chance of wires shorting.

[rrswift]

Originally Posted by DerAlte

Get a DPDT toggle switch. That should have 3 pairs of terminals on it. The center pair is the common, and the switch connects the upper pair to it if the switch is in upper position, respectively lower pair if it is in lower position.

Is this the connection you are suggesting.
Is it ok to bunch the -ve wires?

[DerAlte]

Originally Posted by rrswift

Is this the connection you are suggesting.
Is it ok to bunch the -ve wires?

Exactly.
* Yes, the -ive wires are going straight from the receiver to the speakers
* No, you must not bunch or solder the L and R -ive wires together

Effectively, the following are the connections:
1. The +ive of the bookshelf speaker wires are individually connected to the center terminals on switch
2. The -ive of the bookshelf speaker wires are individually connected to -ive of A speaker terminal on the receiver, and jumpered to -ive of B speaker terminal on the receiver
3. +ive of A speakers on receiver is connected to the top terminals of the switch individually
4. +ive of B speakers on receiver is connected to the bottom terminals of of the switch individually

[rrswift]

Originally Posted by DerAlte

Exactly.
* Yes, the -ive wires are going straight from the receiver to the speakers
* No, you must not bunch or solder the L and R -ive wires together

@DerAlte, Thanks for your help.
I was searching around for solutions,
Is this item suitable for my requirement.
Audio Video AV RCA 3 Way Switch Switcher Splitter&Cable | eBay

I can make RCA cables and will use only the audio ports.
My main concern is the current carrying capacity of this device since I am attempting this at the speaker level output.

[smsrini]

Originally Posted by rrswift

Dear Audio gurus,
I have a requirement : I want to hook up a single pair of speakers for 2 inputs.
The 2 inputs are are coming from the same receiver.
Let me explain the situation.
I have a 5.1 speaker system connected to the yamaha receiver. I use bookshelf speakers for rear (surround) speakers and the distance between front and rear speakers is about 20 feet.
During night I would like to use only the rear speakers. For this I have to completely reduce the volume of front/MID/SUB so that I do not disturb others.
The receiver has an option for using B speaker set.

I would like to build a DIY switch, so that I can just switch to B speaker set on the receiver and not change any other settings.
Can any one suggest a schematic drawing for DIY or off the shelf product.

Yamaha receiver should have the Night cinema mode which effectively cuts the loudness without compromising on the sound effect / 5.1 reproduction.

[rrswift]

Originally Posted by smsrini

Yamaha receiver should have the Night cinema mode which effectively cuts the loudness without compromising on the sound effect / 5.1 reproduction.

I have tried the night modes and it does not help much in my situation.
The front speakers are very near to the bedroom and the rear speakers are about 20 feet away (my seating distance is about 4 feet from the rear speakers). So if I can use only the rear speakers late light, they will not disturb others. I have sony RF wireless headset, but hate using them when watching late night TV.

[DerAlte]

Originally Posted by rrswift

... Is this item suitable for my requirement. ...
I can make RCA cables and will use only the audio ports. ...

A-ha, I had bought this box in Delhi long time back to use in my sister's house - cheap AV switcher for 250!

Yes, you can use this box if you terminate the 3 pairs of cables (2 pairs from receiver and the bookshelf speaker wires) with RCA plugs - commonly available. Solder -ive to outer, +ive to pin. Receiver A speaker to In 1, B speaker to In 2, bookshelf speakers to Out.

Current carrying capacity will be sufficient (you are doing 0-current switching anyhow), but what will be suspect is the switching action after some time. This switch is contacts wiping PCB tracks, so any dust depositing will make it go kaput after some months. Keep it wrapped in cloth to prevent dust - I used a small cloth bag with just the cables coming out.

[trammway]

Guys,

Just completed my Home Theater setup today, I was adding each component separately to build completely customized Home Theater for the best experience in the last 6 months. Back in India I was using Samsung 32 LCD with Samsung home theater kit that is straight forward and no support for blu-ray as the player I had was DVD.

Now the one I build here in my house at NJ is with the following components:

• LG 47LW5600 3D USB 1080p DLNA LED Smart TV 47" & LG wifi adapter and Passive 3D glasses [Skype, Netflix, Youtube .etc.)
• Sony BDP-S480 1080p HDMI USB 3D DLNA Party Streaming Blu-Ray/DVD player
• Sony HDMI Multi channel 7.1 AV receiver STR-DH520 - 3D Pass-through
• Cable vision Optimum TV connection with HD DVR 1080p(Brand: Scientific Atlanta)
• Polkaudio subwoofer RM705 100W
• Sony front speakers SS-H991 x 2 - Rated impedance: 8oms Max, input: 125W, 3 way sys bass reflex type (Spk 6", Tweeter 2", Super Tweeter 1")
• Sony front high speakers SS-SR991 x 2 - Rated impedance: 16oms
• Sony center speaker SS-CN15 - Rated impedance: 8oms Max input: 120W Magnetically shielded type
• Rocketfish RF-WHTIB rear(sorround) speaker wireless kit (receiver & sender)
• Sony sorround speakers SS-SR15 x 2 - Rated impedance: 8oms Max input: 70W
• Omni Mount sorround speaker stand x 2
• Miyama two conductor speaker cables
• Monster standard S16-4R-CL Standard 16 Guage four conductor speaker cable (wireless receiver)
• WireLogic Hi-Speed HDMI cable with ethernet x 3
• Monster subwoofer cable

though it damaged the pocket bit heavy but the end result was amazing. I just watched Avatar 3D version, Wow !

[whitesquall]

Hi Friends,

Please suggest a home theatre package for me.

I live in an apartment, have a 26" Sony Bravia LCD TV and the hall size is about "12 ft X 20 ft". I am totally uninitiated in this area. I have a 1 year 8 months old kid who is very naughty (She can destroy anything that she can reach to!!) and my budget is about INR 50K.

I came across: "Onkyo HT-S9100THX" home theatre system. . .Please share your views about it and suggest if it's worth the money (Approx. INR 50554 on Naaptol).

Thanks in advance!

[chevelle]

Guys, a technical question.

I have a Logitech z5300 THX Certified 5.1 sound system. I recently got TV and PS3. I wonder how i can connect the sound system to TV. The output for sound system is 3.5mm connector, while TV has components and optical out. Is there any adapter or something that can be used?

Please advise.

thank you